You will learn the differences in alkaline and acid perms & chemistry of perms

Chemistry of Permanent Waving

o Alkaline perm solutions softens & swells the hair
o Raises the cuticle & permits the solution to penetrate into the cortex
o Once in the cortex, the solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical

reaction called reduction o Involves either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen o Reduction reaction o Disulfide bond joins a sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with a second sulfur atom on a neighboring polypeptide chain o Perm solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each of the sulfur atoms in the disulfide bond o Sulfur atoms attach to the hydrogen from the perm solution, breaking their attachment to each other o Once the disulfide bond is broken, the polypeptide chains are able to slip into their new curled shape

Chemistry of Permanent Waving

o Reducing agents
o Thiol compounds
o

o
o

o o

Commonly referred to simply as thio / thioglycolic acid Colorless liquid / strong unpleasant odor Provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction reaction in perm solutions Strength is determined by the concentration of thio Stronger perms have a higher concentration of thio w/ a greater number of hydrogen atoms More hydrogen atoms are available, more disulfide bonds are broken

Chemistry of Permanent Waving

Thioglycolic acid
Acid, do not swell the hair or penetrate into the cortex Manufacturers add an alkalizing agent

Ammonia is added and produces a new chemical called ammonium thioglycolate, which is alkaline ATG is main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms Degree of alkalinity (pH) Second factor in overall strength of perm solution pH ( alkalinity ) of the perm solution should correspond to the resistance, strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer

Alkaline Waving / Cold waving

Reforming or waving lotion
Formulated w/ thioglycolic acid or its derivatives & ammonium hydroxide Shorten processing time, ammonium hydroxide is added Softens & swells the hair fibers, making it easier for the thio acid to penetrate the hair structure & break disulfide bonds High alkalinity pH 9.0 to 9.6

Wrapping procedures
Wrapped without tension

Processing
Hair starts to process immediately upon application of lotion Curl begins to form immediately also

Rinsing & or blotting

Easier to rinse due to swollen cuticle

Bonding / neutralizing
3 functions Lowers pH of hair Shrinks swollen hair shaft Restores disulfide bonds Oxidation process which changes the cysteines back to cystine

This allows space for the hair to swell This swelling creates the necessary tension

Essential to rinse all lotion from hair

Greater danger of hair damage if not watched during processing

Never rock and roll the rods, only blot to remove excess moisture

Never leave the bonding/neutralizer on longer than indicated by the manufacturer

Shorter processing time & higher pH

Shorter processing time & higher pH

Reforming or waving lotion

Acid waving / Warm waving

Wrapping procedures Processing It is essential that the hair be wrapped with firm, even tension Heat is applied to speed penetration of chemicals

Rinsing & or blotting Essential to remove all reforming solution completely before bonding

Bonding / neutralizing 3 functions Lowers pH of hair Shrinks swollen hair shaft Restores disulfide bonds Oxidation process which changes the cysteines back to cystine

Formulated with thioglycolic acid or its derivatives and water, Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) Speed is sacrificed for a more controlled curl & less damage Some acid wave will have ATG, ammonium thioglycolate as a reducing agent True acid waves have a pH of 4.5 to 7.0, processed with heat Acid -balanced waves have a pH of 7.8 to 8.2, process at room temperature

Tension along w/reforming lotion & heat, are all necessary to break the disulfide bonds

Longer processing time gives more control over the curl & less damage

Because hair is not swollen as it is in alkaline waving

It is harder & takes longer to adequately remove solution & odor

Never leave the bonding/neutralizer on longer than indicated by the manufacturer Does not have the large pH span to close or excessive swelling to reduce

Exothermic Waves

Produces heat

3 components:
Solution ( reductiton )

Creates an exothermic chemical reaction that Activator heats up the solution & speeds up the processing Neutralizer ( rebonding ) Activator is added immediately before use, which causes the increase in perm solution The increase in temperature causes a chemical reaction, which shortens the processing time

Solution contains thio, just as in a cold wave Activator contains oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide Neutralizer contains hydrogen peroxide, lanolin & other special ingredients
Stops the action of the perm and hardens the hair to its new form Acid solution

Endothermic waves & Ammonia-free waves

Endothermic waves
Absorbs heat from its surroundings Activated by an outside heat source Hood-type dryer Will not process properly at room

Ammonia-free waves
Examples of alkanolamines as a

substitute for ammonia

Aminomethylpropanol (AMP) Monoethanolamine (MEA) Alkaline & just as damaging

temperature Most true acid waves are endothermic & require heat of a hair dryer

Do not smell as strong

Thio-free & low pH waves

Thio-free waves Other ingredients than ATG
Reducing agent

Low-pH waves Sulfates, sulfites & bisulfites

Low pH Not very popular Very weak & do not provide a

Cysteamine Mercaptamine These thio substitutes are not technically ATG Can be just as damaging as thio perms

firm curl Marketed as body waves or alternative waves

Perm type

Perm Categories
Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)

Active ingredient

Process Room temperature

Hair type Coarse, thick, or resistant

Coarse, thick, or resistant

Results Firm, strong curls

Firm, strong curls

Advantage s Processes quickly at room temp

Exothermic reaction causes solution to get hot

Disadvantages Unpleasant ammonia odor,damage delicate hair

Unpleasant ammonia odor,damage delicate hair

Alkaline/cold wave pH: 9.0 to 9.6 Exothermic wave Ph:9.0 to 9.6

Ammonium thioglycolate (ATG)

Exothermic

True acid wave pH: 4.5 to 7.0

Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)

Endothermic

Extremely porous or very damaged

Soft, weak curls

Low pH produces minimal swelling

Required heat,will not produce firm,strong curls

Acid-balancced pH: 7.8 to 8.2

Glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG)

Room temperature

Porous or damaged

Soft curls

Minimal swelling, processes at room temperature No unpleasant ammonia odor

Repeated exposure causes allergic sensitivity in clients or stylist Overall strength varies w/ different manufacturers

Ammonia-free wave pH: 7.0 to 9.6 Thio-free wave pH: 7.0 to 9.6

Monoethanolamine (MEA) Aminomethylpropanol (AMP)

Room temperature

Porous to normal

Medium to fine curls

Mercaptamine/ cysteamine

Room temperature

Porous to normal

Medium to fine curls

Gentler, depending on formula

Overall strength varies w/ different manufacturers Requires heat, weak curls

Low-pH wave pH: 6.5 to 7.0

Ammonium sulfite/ Ammonium bisulfite

Endothermic

Normal,fine, or damage

Weak curl or body wave

Minimal swelling

Summary
A variety of permanent waves are available in salons

today Depending on hair texture, density and porosity determines which perm to use; acid or alkaline