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Understanding Body and Pattern Shapes Through Draping

This document discusses tools and techniques used in patternmaking and draping garments. It provides an overview of common patternmaking tools like pins, rulers, and tailor's chalk. It also explains how notches are used to identify different parts of a pattern. Measurement techniques are described for taking body measurements to create customized patterns. Key terms are defined, such as bust point, center front, and hip curve. The principles of creating balanced patterns are outlined.

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mahimabhat
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317 views

Understanding Body and Pattern Shapes Through Draping

This document discusses tools and techniques used in patternmaking and draping garments. It provides an overview of common patternmaking tools like pins, rulers, and tailor's chalk. It also explains how notches are used to identify different parts of a pattern. Measurement techniques are described for taking body measurements to create customized patterns. Key terms are defined, such as bust point, center front, and hip curve. The principles of creating balanced patterns are outlined.

Uploaded by

mahimabhat
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
Available Formats
Download as PPT, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Understanding Body and Pattern

Shapes through Draping


Patternmaking Tools
Straight pins
Straight pin Holder
Scissors
- Paper scissors
- Fabric Scissors
Rulers
Curve Rulers
- French Curve
- Hip Curve
Tracing Wheel
Measuring tape
Tailors Chalk
Notcher


Functions of Pattern Making Tools
Tools provide the symbols used in marking fabric and
patterns in the production of garments.
It is the silent language that is understood among the
designer or draper, seamstress, grader, etc.


Notches
The notch symbol is used
for the purpose listed :
CF positions
CB position
Seam allowance
Ease and gather control
Dart legs
Identifies front ( 1 notch )
and back ( 2 notches ) of
tops, skirts, sleeves and
armhole.
Sleeve cap
Dart intake

Landmark Terms
The following landmarks terms identify the parts of the
form that are referred to when measuring from one
landmark to another.
1. Center Front neck
2. Center back neck
3. Center front waist
4. Center back waist
5. Bust point
6. Center front Bust level ( between bust points )
7. Side front ( princess)
8. Side back ( princess )

9. Armhole ridge
10. Princess panel
11. Waistline
12. Shoulder at neck/High shoulder point ( shoulder/neck )

Symbol Key
CF = Center front
CB = Center back
BP = Bust point
SS = Side seam
SH = Shoulder
HSP = High shoulder point
HBL Horizontal balance line.
Taking Measurements
Place the metal tip end of the tape measure at one
reference point, and extend to the next reference point
when taking measurements.
The same half of the front and back of the form is
measured.
Record all measurements taken on the measurement
chart

Circumference Measurement
Bust Across bust points and back
Waist Around Waist.
Abdomen 3 below waist
Hip Measure widest area with tape parallel with floor.
Pin to mark hip level at CF.
Measure from floor to the pinmark at CF.
Use this measurement to measure up from the floor and
mark CB and SS.
Draw a line around the hip touching each of the marks.
The standard hip depth is 6-7 down from CF waist for
juniors and petites and 8-9 down for missy size.
This line is called Horizontal Balance line ( HBL )

Horizontal Measurements
Front
Across Shoulder Shoulder tip to CF neck
Across Chest CF to 1 above mid-armhole
Bust arc CF, over bust point, ending 2 below
armplate at side seam.
Waist arc CF waist to side waist seam
Dart placement CF to side front
Abdomen arc CF to side seam, starting 3 down from
waist.
Hip arc CF to side seam on HBL line
Hip Depth CF to HBL line

Back
Back neck CB neck to shoulder at neck.
Across Shoulder Shoulder tip to CB neck
Across Back CB to 1 above mid-armhole
Back arc CB to bottom of arm plate.
Waist arc CB waist to side waist seam
Dart placement CB to side back
Abdomen arc CB to side seam, starting 3 down from
waist.
Hip arc CB to side seam on HBL line
Hip Depth CB waist to HBL line

Vertical Measurement
Side length Pin mark below armhole at side seam to
side waist.
Shoulder length Shoulder tip to neck
Side hip depth Side waist to HBL.
Bust radius Measure from bust point ending under bust
mound.
Front and Back
Center Length neck to waist
Full Length waist to HSP, parallel with center lines
Shoulder slope Center line at waist to shoulder tip.
Principles of balanced patterns
The CF and CB are on perfect grain line.
The bust level line of the front pattern is on
perfect cross grain, allowing the area below the
bust level to hang straight up and down.
The shoulder blade level line of the back bodice
is on perfect cross grain, allowing the area
below the shoulder blade level line to hang
straight up and down
On front bodice, the centre of the princess panel
line is on perfect grain and is parallel to CF.
The armhole must resemble a horseshoe shape.
The armhole should also balance
measurement of the back armhole should be
1/2 more then the front armhole.
The front waist line distance is larger than the
back waistline distance.
The side seam should be at the same angle,
while the center front and back are parallel.
Glossary of Draping terms
Apex the highest point of a bust on a dress form.
Bias a line diagonally across the grain of the fabric that offers the
greatest stretchability. True bias is at a 45 degree angle
Clip a small cut into the seam allowance that extends almost to the
stitch line.
Dart to take up excess fabric of a specified width and taper it to
nothing at one or both ends. Used to ais in fitting the garment over
the body curves.
Dart legs The stitch line on both sides of the dart.
Ease The even distribution of slight fullness when one section of a
seam is joined to a slightly shorter seaction without forming gathers
or tucks.
Ease Allowance the amount of excess fabric added to the draped
pattern to make garment more comfortable and allow for easier
movement.

Seam two or more edges of fabric are held together and swen
using a variety of stitches.
Seam Allowance The amount of fabric allowed for seams in joining
together sections of a garment.
Selvage The narrow, firmly woven finished edge along both
lengthwise edges of the fabric that does not ravel.
Slash a straight cut longer that a clip from the outer edge of the
fabric into the style line of the garment.
Transferring the process of pinning and tracing all the fabric
markings onto the pattern paper.
Trim to cut away excess fabric.
Trueing The process of blending the markings, dots and cross
marks made during the draping process.
Vanishing point the tapered finished point of a dart.

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