Stability Testing Emsworth Making Cosmetics 2015
Stability Testing Emsworth Making Cosmetics 2015
Theory into
Practice
David Clarke BSc (Hons), MSc
Physics
Regulations Overview
Cosmetic Product must be safe for human health
Proven by Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR)
Report included in PIF
Regulations Overview
Labelling
Date of Minimum Durability
Regulations Overview
Vague requirements
Testing conducted should be specific to the
product and the type of data required from it.
Objectives of Stability
Testing
Definition Determine whether a particular
formulation, in its immediate packaging
can retain its intended physical & chemical
stability and microbiological quality,
including its intended function and
aesthetics under the conditions of the
market in which it is to be sold.
Understand how the product shall fair over
time
Primary concern safety
Secondary concern Brand / Manufacturer
reputation
At what point are changes unacceptable?
Objectives of Stability
Testing
Product Stability Product stored and tested
in inert, impermeable glass jars
Container Compatibility Product and the
final, immediate packaging tested together
Recommend conducting both stability and
compatibility
Determines product or packaging instability
Temperature
Temperature
Alternate Artificial Aging Guides
12 weeks at 45C equates to 24 months
12 weeks at 45C equates to 30 months
16 weeks at 45C equates to 30 months
Temperature
Samples stored at chilled temperature
Control
Used for comparisons
Relative Humidity
Immediate packaging test (compatibility)
Does the pack provide adequate protection?
Achieved using saturated salt solutions in a sealed
chamber
Temperature C
Saturated
Solution
10
20
30
40
KNO3
95
93
91
88
NaCL
76
76
75
75
43
42
47
44
Control atKambient
2CO3
Test at humid & dry conditions
Monitor daily
Light
Photostability of product and immediate
packaging
Window light method
Natural daylight North facing
Minimise direct sunlight
Compare to controlled samples kept in dark
condition
Dark incubator
OR; Wrapped in aluminium foil
Light
Accelerated light method
Light cabinet SunTest CPS+
Lamp covers whole or broad spectrum of light
e.g. Xenon lamp
Various filters available UV
Light
Control sample wrapped in aluminium foil
Test sample exposed to light
Test protocols
550W/m2 with C grade filter (window), 2 x 10 hour
exposure (2 tests)
550W/m2 with C grade filter (window), 3 hour to
maximum 12 hour exposure (potentially 4 tests)
550W/m2 with C grade filter (window), 7 x 10 hour
exposure (7 tests)
440W/m2 with C grade filter (window), 20 hour
exposure (1 test)
Test Points
Initial readings
Ensure frequency is sufficient for trends to be recorded
Real Time Stability test PAO
3, 6, 12, 24 & 36 months
Examination
Physical Stability; common properties
Colour
Appearance
Odour
Assessed subjectively
Multiple assessors to remove bias
Comprehensive description
Rating system to quantify change
Colour
darker / paler
new colours
Appearance
texture
sedimentation
separation
Odour
top / base note
sour / rancid odour developing
Examination
Product specific tests
pH
pH buffers
Viscosity
Calibration fluid
Specific Gravity
Deionised water
Active ingredients
Change in concentration
Interaction with the formulation
Examination
Packaging
Colour
Stress cracking
Tubes rupturing
Panelling / Ballooning
Application Mechanisms
Weight loss / Weight gain
Seal tests
Interpretation
Product specifications
outside of specification unsatisfactory
reformulate / new pack