Understanding Of Garment And Quality

Parameter For Trouser, Women’s T-shirt

and Dress

BACHELOR OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY (APPAREL

PRODUCTION) Submitted By
Vishwanath Kumar Saw

Submitted to
Mr Ranjan Saha (Associate professor)
NIFT, Mumbai
 Introduction
• Garments are one of the basic needs of the human beings apart from food and shelter. It is
also known as dress, cloth or apparel. Clothes are protecting the human body against
extreme weather conditions. But people are wear clothing for functional as well as for social
reasons. Today, there are many materials with which clothes are made. A person can choose
from purchasing clothes made from natural origin materials, like silk, wool, and leather, but
may also select one for the man-made fibres extensively used in clothes manufacturing, like
nylon, polyester, Lycra and Gore-Tex. With the recent technological developments, there is
great speculation for the direction future clothes will take; in fact the clothing electronics
industry has just started.
• Clothing industry or garment industry summarizes the types of industry along the production
and life chain of clothing and garments, starting with the textile industry (producers of
cotton, wool, fur, and synthetic fibre) via fashion industry to fashion retailers. The producing
sectors build upon a wealth of clothing technology some of which, like the loom, the cotton
gin, and the sewing machine heralded industrialization not only of the previous textile
manufacturing practices.
Need of the project
Understanding of process making garment. there have different process. It include
specification sheet, quality parameter, product design, quality control, quality analysis.
Fit analysis. In the market same size of garment different fit available, so consumer are
problem facing with fit , quality etc.

Objective of the project

• Understanding Of Individual Garment
• Quality Parameter For each Trouser, Women’s Top and Dress
Review of literature
• India is second largest garment manufacturing country to china. Quality is
main role in garment industry. India is straggling with quality to long time.
Quality cause due to man power skilled, Knowledge Process, training,
management, assurance etc. in garment industry supervisor, operators, and IE
are facing with of quality and they have little bit aware of quality meaning,
also those of all very aware of machine, defects, process etc.
• Quality for the clothing industry, especially in defects detection by statistical
means and image processing, a general view of specific aspects and directions
regarding product quality and quality management. The concepts and actual
trends in this field are presented, underlining the dynamic and global quality
character in the economic and social context of the moment. The training
program as part of quality improvement process with his role in motivating
the organization members to improve the quality level is analysed at each
level, with the principles and practices for each employee.
Introduction of Garments

• Clothing can be made of textiles, animal skin, or other thin sheets of materials put together.
The wearing of clothing is mostly restricted to human beings and is a feature of all
human societies. The amount and type of clothing worn depend on body type, social, and
geographic considerations. Some clothing can be gender-specific.
• Clothing or garment industry the types of industry along the production and life chain of
clothing and garments, starting with the textile industry (producers of cotton, wool, fur, and
synthetic fibre) via fashion industry to fashion retailers.
• The producing sectors build upon a wealth of clothing technology some of which, like the
loom, the cotton gin, and the sewing machine heralded industrialization not only of the
previous textile manufacturing practices. In the apparel industry they are manufactures all
kinds of garment.
 There are different components of trouser. There are include pocket, zipper,
waistband, knee line, side seam, product design etc.

Belt Loop Waistband

Zipper Belt Loop
Front Pocket Fly Opening Welt Pocket
Back Rise
Crotch
Inseam
Side Seam

Bottom Hem
 Garment Labeling Positin Guideline
Brand Name, Size, Country of Origin
The brand label, size, and country of origin must be affixed to the inside of
the center of the neck midway between the shoulder seams

Tech Date
Tech Pack Main label is attached to the
waistband

Pack
BRAND KBC PO Number Non
SEASON Summer DELIVERY DATE 25-May-17
STYLE NAME HLHS003 Product Men's Trouser
FACTORY Non Smaple comments date
Description Size Range 28, 30,32, 34, 36

for Fabric Information

Main Fabric
Content
Wash/ Finish Non
PolyesterBlend
70% Polyester, 30% Viscose
Fabric Content, Fabric Care
Wash care label is attached at the
side seam.

casual Trims Information

The fabric information, care instructions and must be affixed to the inside
of the garment on the lower side inseam
as per the image below:

trouser Placemet label or

tag on garment

Zipper Button Hook Waistband lining

Label ang tag details

Specification Sheet
Date IMAGE
BRAND KBC
SEASON Summer
STYLE HLHS003
Main Label Brand Tag back waistband tag Metal tab SUPPLIER Non
Description
 Tech Pack Specification Sheet
Date

Tech BERAND KBC 0 Non

Date IMAGE
SEASON Summer 0 30-May-17 BRAND KBC
STYLE HLHS003 Product Women's SEASON Summer
SUPPLIER Non 0
STYLE HLHS003

Pack
Description Size Range XS, S, M, L ,XL, XXL
Fabric Information SUPPLIER Non
Main Fabric Poly / Viscose
Content 100% Viscose
Description
Wash/ Finish Non

for T- Neck Rib

Trims Information
Garment Labeling Positin Guideline
Point of Measure
Size

FRONT LENGTH FROM HPS

S

59
M

60
L

61
Brand Name, Size, Country of Origin

shirt The brand label, size, and country of origin must be affixed to the inside of
the center of the neck midway between the shoulder seams
1/2 CHEST WIDTH
1/2 BOTTOM WIDTH
SHOULDER
49
49
4.5
51
51
4.5
53
53
4.5
ARMHOLE MEASURED STRAIGHT 21.5 22.5 23.5
1/2 BICEP 18 19 20
1/2 SLEEVE OPENING 17 18 19
Front center SLEEVE LENGTH 18.5 19 19.5
Back label
Fabric Content, Fabric Care
NECK WIDTH 19 19.5 20
The fabric information, care instructions and must be affixed to the inside of NECK RIB HEIGHT 1.5 1.5 1.5
the garment on the lower side inseam
as per the image below:

Comments
Inside seam label
Machine used for making formal trouser

Machine Name Purpose

Overlock Machine Edge, Bottom Pocket O/L Thread Trimming Thread Trimming
Machine
SNLS Front and back join, pocket attach, Legger and Topper Legger and Topper Pressing
Waistband attach, Pressing Machine
Welting Machine Welt pocket attached Spotting Machine To removes spot

SNCS Side seam, Inseam

Bartack Machine Front and back side pocket

Button Hole machine This is used for sewing

buttonholes in the garment.
Button attach machine Which is used for attaching a
button on garment
Buck Pressing Machine Welting pressing, side seam,
Inseam, Back rise pressing
YKK Slider Machine Slider Attached

Pin Tacking Machine Waistband Lining Pin tacking

Blinding Machine Bottom Hemming

Machine used for making T-shirt

Machine Purpose
name

Overlock 514 overlock in used inside the

Machine garment

Hemline Bottom Cover, Sleeve Opening

cover

SNLS Label Attaching, Pipe joining,

Thread
Trimming Thread Trimming
Machine
Buck
Pressing Upper Pressing
machine
Basic Garment Measurements
• The essential step in garment construction is taking body measurement. The fit of a garment
depends on the accuracy of the body measurement.
• The measurement needed for garment making depends on the style and types of the
garment but also on the age and sex of the user. The only tool required for measurement is a
measuring tape.
• Measuring dimensions is a critical aspect of quality control for garments. If an item of
clothing doesn’t fit the end-consumer, they probably won’t buy it or will return it.
Measuring a Sample of Garments for Dimensions
 Measuring a Sample of Garments for Dimensions
Name Measure Point
WAIST BAND – MEASURE Measure along center of waistband from side to side
HIP MEASURE Measure 8” below center front from top of waistband. Measure along below from
side seam to side seam
THIGH MEASURE To CROTCH POINT Measure 1” below crotch at perpendicular of length of the leg from side to side.

KNEE MEASURE 14" BLEOW CROTCH Measure at center point of inseam length, measure straight across length from side
seam to side seam.
BOTTOM MEASURE Measure across bottom opening from side to side.

FRONT RISE INCLUDING WAIST BAND Measure from front crotch point to top of waistband.

BACK RISE INCLUDING WAIST BAND Measure from back crotch point to top of waistband.

INSEAM MEASURE- CROTCH PT TO BOTTOM Measure from crotch point to bottom of trouser opening.

WAIST BAND HEIGHT Measure one edge to other edge of waistband.

J STITCH MEASURE (EXCLUDING W/B) Measure from Bottom point of fly to waistband

BACK DOUBLE-WELT POCKET OPENING LENGHTH Measure from one side to other side length of welt pocket
How to Measure a T-shirt:
Name Measuring point
FRONT LENGTH FROM HPS Measure length of the garment from HPS to the bottom

CHEST WIDTH TO ARMHOLE 1” below armhole, measure edge to edge of under armhole

WAIST MEASURE Measure horizontally across of bottom from side seam to side seam.

BOTTOM HEM HEIGHT Measure width of the bottom seam

SHOULDER SEAM Measure from top of neck point to shoulder seam.
SIDE SEAM Measure from point of under armhole seam to bottom seam

ARMHOLE MEASURED Measure along of the curve of the armhole from top of shoulder point to under side seam
of armhole
BICEP 1" BELOW ARMHOLE 1” below the armhole measure side to side of the sleeve.

SLEEVE OPENING Measure across width of sleeve opening.

SLEEVE LENGTH Measure from top of the shoulder seam to sleeve opening.
NECK LENGTH Measure from neck seam to neck seam at HPS
BACK LENGTH Measure back length from top neck point to bottom seam.
Size Charts
• The measurement size/ size chart are typically set-up a table. On the table layout
the size other measurements in centimetres or inches. Measurement chart is used
to define all the points of measure that is required for the garment specification
The following tables show men body measurements for trouser
Size Chart Men’s Formal Trouser
28 30 32 34 36 38 40
Size
Inch Inch Inch Inch Inch Inch Inch
Waist Measure 73 78 83 88 94 98 103
Hip Measure 93 98 103 108 113 60 123
Thigh Measure 56 58.5 61 63.5 66 68.5 71
Knee Measure 40 41.25 43 44.5 46 47.5 49
Bottom Measure 35 36 38 39 40.5 42 43.5
Front Rise Including Waist Band 48 50 52 54 56 58 60
Back Rise Including Waist Band 71 73 75 77 79 81 83
Inseam Measure 86 86 86 86 86.5 86.5 86.5
The following tables show Women body
measurements for Top
Size Chart Women Top
Size XS(cm) S M L X XXL
Front Length 55 57 57 59 59 61
Chest Width 90 95 100 105 110 115
Bottom Width 90 95 100 105 110 115
Armhole Measured 42 44 46 48 50 52
Bicep 36 38 40 42 44 46
Sleeve Length 18 18.5 19 19.5 20 20.5
Defects on T-shirt
Defects Location Cause
Open Seam Hem Improper Thread Tension
Hole Front, Left Sleeve Fabric Defect/ Improper Handling
Seam Mismatch Armhole Incorrect Feed
Broken Stitch Sleeve Weak Thread/ Inappropriate Tension
Improper Positioning Of Below Neckline Improper Marking
Size Label
Shade Variation Whole Garment Improper Dyeing/ Excessive Ironing
Brand Label Back Improper Marking
Mismatch Sleeve Length Right & Left Incorrect Pattern/ Improper Cutting
Twisted Seam Right Sleeve, Side Seam Improper Feeding
Skip Stitch Collar Band Improper Thread Tension
Uncut Thread Armhole, Side Seam, Wash Missing Operation
Care Label
Foreign Thread Armhole, Side Seam Improper Trims Inspection
Seam Mismatch Left Side Seam & Hem Incorrect Pattern/ Improper Cutting
Bad Odour Whole Garment Not Washed Properly
Dirty Garment Whole Garment Not Washed Properly
Defects on Trouser:
Defects Location Cause
Damaged Button Waistband Improper Handling

Missing Bartack Welt Pocket, Front Pocket Improper Handling

Missing Size Label Under Waistband Improper Handling

Mismatch Zipper lock Front Rise Improper Handling

Improper J Stitch Shape Zipper Improper Handling
Mismatch Waistband Length Waistband Improper Handling
Missing Belt Loop Waistband Improper Handling
Improper Pressing Whole Garment Improper Handling
Stain Back Improper Handling
Mismatch Side Seam Side Seam Incorrect Pattern/ Improper Cutting
Seam Puckering Side Seam Improper Handling, Incorrect Feeding
Improper Crease Front Improper Handling, Pressing
Improper Folding Whole Garment Improper Handling
Improper Welt Pocket Shape Back Welt Pocket Improper Handling, Pressing
Unshaped Front Rise Front Rise improper Handling, Incorrect Thread Tension
Buttonhole Damaged Waistband Blunt Knife Or Improper Stitch Density
Garment Zone
Garment Zoning Of Visual Defects
• In some cases, a defect can be considered as minor/ major based on the location of the defect in a
garment. This location is called as zone. Zoning is done for fair evaluation of the garment during
visual audit.
• Visual defects are categorized as
• Major,
• Minor and
• Critical defects.
Minor defects
• Defects that are unlikely to reduce the use of the product, but nevertheless may influence the sale.
Major defects
• Functional defects reducing the usability of the product, as well as obvious visual defects reducing
the sales value of the products
Critical defects
• Defects which could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individual using maintain the
product, as well as contravening legal regulations
Garment Zone/ Visual Defects on garments

A
A
A
A A B
B C
B B

B B
C C
A A A A
A
A

B B
Zone Wise Defects of T-Shirt
Defect Description Major Minor Critical
Broken Yarn X
Uneven Knitting Yarn X
Rough Yarn X
Slub X
Rough Yarn X
Pills X
Dye Bars X
Run Stitches X
Needle Line X
Drop Stitches X
Loose Stitches X
Holes (Any Size Of Holes) X
Oil Spots X
Pen Mark X
Pencil Mark X
Chalk Mark X
Glue Mark X
Untrimmed Thread Ends X
Color Shade Variation X
Poor Ironing X
Crease Mark X
Zone Wise Defects of Trouser
Defect Description Major Minor Critical
Fabric Defects X
Broken Yarn X
Uneven Knitting Yarn X
Slub X
Pills X
Dye Bars X
Run Stitches X
Needle Line X
Drop Stitches X
Loose Stitches X
Holes (Any Size Of Holes) X
Fold Lines In Fabric X
Crease Lines In Fabric X
Open Seam, Missing Stitch
Stain X
Oil Spots X
Oil Stain X
Uneven Seam Length X
Pencil Mark X
Missed Button X
Guideline for Fabric Requirements
• The quality of all fabrics used in industry must be of a commercially
acceptable standard and meet all stated quality standards. In a situation
where a quality issue arises, either from customer returns or as identified
by Q.A before bulk garments are delivered to stores, we may require the
Supplier to have further testing carried out. All testing report should be
ready by the Supplier’s.
Guideline of Fabric, Accessories and Labelling
Name Quality Guidelines
Fabric quality are related to various physical properties and performance of the
garments, such as fabric construction, fabric weight, fabric strength, shrinkage,
Fabric colourfastness, durable press, durability of any finishes, etc.
Use by standard fabric inspection system 4 point system, generally specify in
specification sheet/ fabric report

Interlining must be correctly match with buyer requirements, fuse, not appear
Interlining on fabric like bubbling, strike-back, strike- through,
 All zips must be sourced by buyer requirements
All zippers must meet the current AS2332 standards for
Mechanical tests.
All zippers must meet to buyer requirement colourfastness
standards
Zipper All zippers must be original with the registered company

All accessories that are metal or have metal parts must be non-toxic and must not have any nickel content. Paint on
metal components must be non-toxic and must not chip off.
Metal All metal components must be rustproof.
Accessories Edges of accessories must not be sharp; e.g. top corners of zips,
Underside of rivets and eyelets.
Metal eyelets must have plastic washers on the underside.

All threads should match with buyer requirement

Thread count
Thread Thread Ply
Type of twist
Thread Elongation
All Texts are printed in the trims like hang tags, price tags, brand labels, case labels. It is very important that all
Text Content/ information is matched with approved one. Fiber content printed in care label must match with test report made for
Fonts/Language fiber content.
On Labels And
Tags:
Guideline of Testing to Fabric, Accessories and Labelling
• All fabrics and accessories must be audited in garment form, Q.A cannot approve fabrics as piece
goods or accessories if they are not applied or attached to the garment
• Q.A approval reports will approve fabrics and accessories from a visual aspect only. If a
performance issue on an approval sample is obvious to QA the Supplier will be advised to the issue
via approval report.
• All fabric and accessories on a regular basis to ensure that they are commercially acceptable as per
the legal requirements of the legal standards and regulations.
• We may request from the Supplier verification of performance levels of fabrics and accessories on
a random basis or if a quality issue arises through customer feedback.
• In accordance with the legal requirements of the standard Children’s nightwear and other daywear
specific fabrics and trims must be tested for flammability. This standard also outlines the
requirements for testing fire danger label durability and attachment to the garment.
• Testing will be required for all orders
• For orders that have multiple styles using the same fabric, we would require an order or series of
orders to be tested; here we would need you to test just once and quote all the relevant order
numbers on the test report.
• If you have different orders/styles placed at the same time using the same fabric. The fabric must
be tested.
Product Safety Guideline:

Name Safety Requirement

Buttons All buttons must be lock stitch machine attached. Buttons attached by hand will not be accepted.
Refer to General Requirements in this section regarding button attachment.

Zips must have a functional stopper mechanism at the top of the zipper tape to prevent the slider
Zips from being removed from the zip.
To prevent this occurring, stopper must not be sewn into the seams at either end of the zip.

Thread Untrimmed thread ends are not only untidy but are a dangerous hazard on infants’ and children’s
wear because they can wind around child’s fingers or toes, cutting off circulation

Children’s Wear Children’s wear must comply with AS/NZS1249 and Product Safety Standards (Children’s Nightwear
and Limited Daywear Having Reduced Fire Hazard) Regulations.

Accessories Removable accessories which do not meet the requirements of NZS5822 will not be permitted on
garments intended for children under three years old.
Labelling and Packaging Testing Guideline:
• It is the Supplier responsibility to ensure that all apparel products complies with
the most recent versions of the following standards and regulations:

Name Standard
AS/NZS1957
Care Labelling AS/NZS2621
Consumer Information Standards (Care Labelling)
Regulations (NZ)
AS/NZS2622
Fibre content labelling AS/NZS2450
Consumer Information Standards (Fibre Content
Labelling) Regulations
Consumer Information Standards (Country of Origin
Country of origin labelling (Clothing and Footwear) Regulations
Australian Customs Notice – ACN 92/194
AS/NZS1249 including Revised version June
Children’s nightwear & other 2008
daywear Product Safety Standards (Children’s Nightwear
and Limited Daywear Having Reduced Fire
Hazard) Regulations
AS/NZS1182
NZS 5822 (accessories on infants apparel)