Chapter 1:

Patternmaking Essentials for the

Workroom
 Chapter 1 Objectives
• Name the workroom tools and their function for
drafting patterns.
• Identify the different weights of muslin and paper.
• Discuss the importance of the dart.
• Use workroom-related terms clearly and accurately
when communicating with associates.
• Define production terms and the associate's tasks
relating to the terms.
• Confidently mark information on the cost sheet,
pattern chart, and spec sheet.
 What is a pattern?
• Paper pieces
• Communicates shapes
of fabric pieces to cut to
make a garment in a
specific style and size
• Communicates
markings needed to
construct the garment
 Types of Patternmaking
• How are patterns made?
– Knock-off
• Tracing the pattern pieces from an existing garment
– Draping
• Using fabric on a dress form to create pattern shapes, which are
transferred to paper.
– Pattern drafting:
• Using measurements taken from a form or model to create sloper
patterns.
• Sloper (“working pattern”): Any pattern used as a base for
manipulation when generating design patterns. It is developed
without design features.
– Flat patternmaking:
• Manipulating previously developed sloper patterns to create design
patterns.
 Basic Pattern Set
• A five-piece sloper pattern set,
which represents the
dimensions of a specific form
or figure.
• consisting of:
– a front and back bodice,
– a skirt, and
– a long sleeve,
• We will draft this sloper
set (& more!) in this class
 Dart Terminology
• Dart:
– A wedge-shaped cutout in a pattern to
control the fit of a garment.
• Bust point:
– A designated place on the bust and
pattern and referred to in flat
patternmaking as the pivotal point or
apex.
• Dart intake:
– The amount of excess (or space)
confined between dart legs.
– Its purposes are to take up excess
where it is not needed, and to gradually
release fabric where it is needed to
control the fit of the garment.
• Dart legs:
– The two lines that converge at a
predetermined point on the pattern.
 Function of Patternmaking Tools
• Create pattern lines and
curves
• Mark symbols
– Communicate important
information so garment
Patternmaker Designer Seamstress Grader Marker Maker

will be cut and stitched

accurately
– Throughout flow of
production
 Patternmaking Tools - Required
• Clear plastic grid ruler • Tailor's square (L-square):
18” X 2” – Metal
– two arms forming a 90°
angle that measures, rules,
and squares
simultaneously.

Image retrieved from: Voguefabricstore.com Image retrieved from: Amazon.com

 Patternmaking Tools - Required
• French curve: • Vary form curve:
– ideal for shaping – blends and shapes
armholes and necklines armholes, necklines, and
other curves

Image retrieved from: Cutting-mats.com Image retrieved from: Voguefabricstore.com

 Patternmaking Tools – Required
• Pattern snips

Image retrieved from: Senox.com

• Awl:
– A sharp pointed
tool that pierces
a 1/8 inch hole in
patterns. Image retrieved from: Voguefabricstore.com
Patternmaking Tools - Required

• Pattern notcher:
– A metal implement with a
cutting blade that is used
to cut a 1/4 x 1/16 inch
opening at the pattern's
Image retrieved from: Voguefabricstore.com
edge.
 Patternmaking Tools - Required
• Tracing wheels:
– Pointed and blunted
wheels that transfer
pattern shapes to paper.

Image retrieved from: Voguefabricstore.com Image retrieved from: Voguefabricstore.com

 Patternmaking Tools—Required
• Straight pins and pin holder • Stapler, staples, & remover
• Scissors—fabric & paper • “Magic” tape
• Mechanical pencil & eraser • Metal weights
– Pencil - main fabrication • Measuring tape
• Colored pens (Use • Tailor’s chalk
appropriate coding for • Pattern Hooks
marking patterns)
– Red - interfacing
– Green -lining
– Purple - combination fabric
• Push pins
Image retrieved from: Amazon.com
 Patternmaking Tools – Optional Extras

Rulers Curve Rules

• Flex general rule: • Sleigh curve:
– very accurate – used for all types of curve
– metal shapes (e.g., necklines,
armholes, pockets, collars,
• Flexible rule: and cuffs)
– transparent plastic
• Hip curve rule:
– to measure armhole curves.
– Shapes the hipline, hem, and
Guides lapels

• Simflex folding measure:

- Space guide for button/buttonholes, pleats, and tucks.
 Patternmaking Tools—Paper
• Pattern paper
– Light weight
– Used for first
patterns
• Tag board
– Used for slopers
and production
patterns

Image retrieved from:

Midtownpaper.com
 Patternmaking Tools—Muslin
• A plain-woven cotton made from bleached or
unbleached corded yarns in a variety of
weights:
– Coarse-weave:
• Used for draping and testing basic patterns;
– Light-weight:
• Used for softly draped garments;
– Heavy-weight:
• Firmly woven, used for testing tailored garments,
jackets, and coats.
Patternmaking Tools—Other Materials
• 4-way stretch knit (2 yards)
– Knit must stretch in both length and width

Image retrieved from:

Hartsfabric.com
Patternmaking Tools—Other Materials
• Lining (1 ½ yard)
• Invisible zippers (2 nine-inch, 1 ten-inch, & 1
twenty-six-inch (some are available for
student use—no guarantee as to color and
length availability)
 The All Important Grainline
• Grain:
– The direction in which the yarn
is woven or knitted.
• Crosswise grain :
– Yarns woven across the fabric
from selvage to selvage.
– Crosswise grain yields to
tension.
• Lengthwise grain:
– Yarns parallel with selvage.
– It is the most stable grain.
• Selvage:
– The narrow, firmly woven, and
finished strip on both
lengthwise grain edges of the
woven fabric.
 More About Grainlines
• Bias:
– Any slanting or diagonal line
cut or sewn across the weave
of the cloth.
• True bias:
– The line that intersects with
the lengthwise and crosswise
grains at a 45° angle.
– True bias has maximum give
and stretch, easily conforming
to the figure's contours.
– Flares, cowls, and drapes
work best when cut on true
bias.
 Grainlines on Patterns
• A line drawn on each • Grainline arrows:
pattern piece – 1. Arrows placed at both
• Indicates how the pattern ends
• the pattern may be placed
should align with the in either direction along
lengthwise grain of the the lengthwise grainline of
fabric. the fabric (for fabrics
without a nap).
– Always mark the
– 2. An arrow placed at the
lengthwise grain on every
top or the bottom
pattern piece!
• the pattern must be placed
– Grainline should extend in one direction only (for
from edge to edge fabrics with a nap).
 Patternmaking Procedures
• Neat workmanship is essential.
• Always draft for the right side of the body
• Always draft without seam allowances.
• Trueing:
– Establishing correct seam lengths—for example, trueing a
side seam having a side dart.
• Blending
– The smoothing and straightening of pencil lines,
crossmarks, and dot marks
• Walking
• Balancing
 Guidelines for Pattern Labeling
• Grainline: Mark lengthwise on • Buttonhole [--------] and button x
every piece • Dart points - punch hole ½”
– 2” (or more) away from CF or CB inside apex and circle
• Pattern number - size - number • Thumbnail sketch - a small sketch
to cut: along grainline to represent the finished garment
– 1050 - 8 - 2 on a main pattern piece
• Name of pattern piece • Fabrication - woven or knit
• Your name • Right-side-up:
• CF and CB: center front and – Indicates to the marker maker that
center back – the pattern is to be placed face up
on the marker (for asymmetrical
• Fold lines: dotted line . . . . . . . . . . designs).
• Gathers: dashed line ------------ • Detail location:
– placement of flower or other detail
 Guidelines for Notches
• Use a SINGLE NOTCH to • NOTCH
indicate FRONT pattern – CF and CB
pieces – hem depth
• Use a DOUBLE NOTCH – 1" side seams
to indicate BACK – connecting points on
pattern pieces stylelines
– knee level
• Use a TRIPLE NOTCH to
indicate CB and base of – waist level
zipper – elbow level
 Guidelines for Seam Allowances
• ¼” • 1"
– Necklines with facings – Side Seams
– Armholes with facings – Seams with Zippers
– Facings
– Tight curves • 2"
– Most Tailored hems
• ½”
– Major connecting seams • Notch or outline ALL
– Necklines with collars seam allowances (for
– Armholes with sleeves classroom purposes)
– Stylelines
– Narrow rolled hems
 Patternmaking Process

Production
First pattern Marker
pattern

• The original pattern • The final corrected • The arrangement of

developed for and error-free pattern pieces.
designs. version. All pattern symbols
Generally made on The pattern contains are marked on the
marking paper every pattern piece patterns.
Requires fitting and required to complete
pattern corrections. the garment.
It is used by the
grader for sizing and
by the marker maker
for fabric layout.
 Cost Sheet
• A complete record of
each design that is used
to cost the garment and
establish the wholesale
price.
 Pattern Chart
• A complete record of all
pattern pieces within
the pattern set.
• It also includes
swatches and special
pattern information.
 Specification Chart
• A record of the finishing
requirements for each
design.
• It is used by those
responsible for finishing
to ensure that the
garment meets
company standards.
 Review Questions
• Why are tools important to patternmaking?
• What is the primary purpose of the awl?
• What is the primary purpose of the notch tool?
• Why is the awl pierce circled?
• What is the purpose for piercing the pattern 1/2 inch from a dart point?
• What is the definition of the grain?
• What is another name for lengthwise grain, and what is its characteristic?
• What is another name for crosswise grain?
• What is true about the placement of the grainline?
• When would a pattern be marked "right side up"?
• What is the difference between drafting and flat patternmaking?
• What is a working pattern?
• What is the purpose of a dart intake?