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Group No 2: Zahid Junaid Zainab

The document provides details on constructing earthquake-resistant buildings using dhajji construction techniques. Some key points covered include: - Foundations should extend at least 1 foot below ground and be anchored securely to resist seismic activity. - Horizontal wooden frames are constructed using post and beam joints like mortise and tenon. Diagonal bracing fills in wall spaces. - Mud mortar is preferred for infill over rigid concrete to allow wall panels flexibility. - Examples estimate materials needed for a simple one-room building. Proper construction using local materials can provide cost-effective earthquake protection.

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31 views

Group No 2: Zahid Junaid Zainab

The document provides details on constructing earthquake-resistant buildings using dhajji construction techniques. Some key points covered include: - Foundations should extend at least 1 foot below ground and be anchored securely to resist seismic activity. - Horizontal wooden frames are constructed using post and beam joints like mortise and tenon. Diagonal bracing fills in wall spaces. - Mud mortar is preferred for infill over rigid concrete to allow wall panels flexibility. - Examples estimate materials needed for a simple one-room building. Proper construction using local materials can provide cost-effective earthquake protection.

Uploaded by

ismail
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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GROUP NO 2

ZAHID
JUNAID
ZAINAB
SITE : BAJAUR
ASPECTS

•Cost-effectiveness
•ENERGY efficient
•Earthquake-resistant
Vernacular Architecture
DHAJJI CONSTRUCTION
TERMINOLOGIES
TERMINOLOGIES
DESIGN STRATIGIES
• Prepare a
good
foundation
with
stone and
cement
mortar.
• Place 3 feet
anchor
bolts into
concrete,
into the
lower part
of the
foundation. 1 foot
• Anchors
can be
prepared 2 ½ feet
with a plate 2 feet 1 foot
or a hook.
6 feet

• Distance
6 feet
between
anchor
bolts about
6 feet.
• Diameter
anchor bolt
½ inch.
• Top of the
foundation
should be in
stone.
• Top of the
foundation
should be in
stone.
• Avoid a
concrete
finish, as
the water
will remain
under the
dasa.
• Top of the
foundation
should be in
stone.
• Avoid a
concrete
finish, as the
water will
remain under
the dasa.
• This
foundation is
not enough
solid.
• Foundations
shouldn’t
come out of
the ground
that much.
• They
become
weak,
particularly
when made
in dry stone.

Best: 1 foot only


3. Dasa (plinth beam)
• Anchoring the Dasa to the foundation
• Protecting the Dasa against water and insects
• Minimum
size of
dasa:
4x4 inch

• Fix the
Dasa with
the
anchors…
• (Don’t
forget to
add a solid
washer).
• … but
preferably
not in the
corners.
• (AGAIN,
don’t forget
to add a
solid
washer).
• Bad
anchoring
of the Dasa
with loose
straps.
• Bolts or re-
bars are
better than
straps to
anchor the
Dasa.
• Don’t place
the posts
directly on
the
foundation,
without a
Dasa.
• Use the best
wood for
the Dasa.
• Protect the
Dasa with
old
engine oil.
• Apply oil
before
placing,
including the
lower side.
M
• Protect the
Dasa
against
water.
• Water from
the roof
will fall on
the
foundation
and under
the Dasa.
• These are
good
channels
behind the
house to
keep the
water away.
• These are
good
channels
behind the
house to
keep the
water away.
• Foundation
does not
come 1 foot
out of the
ground.
• Dasa is in
contact with
the soil.
• Humidity will
creep into
the Dasa
and ruin it.
4. The frame structure
• A well done
frame
structure.
• But this is
not for dhajji

construction.
• The panels
to receive
the infills are
too big.
…and:

• No
foundation:
the dasa on
the ground
will rot away
very
quickly.
• A typical
Dhajji frame
structure
• A typical
Dhajji frame
structure

• Unfortunately
the Dasa is
missing!
• This
subdivision
is correct.
• Main posts
should be 4
4 – 6 ft
to 6 feet
apart.
• With this
spacing,
the main
posts must
be 4”x 4”
Max.
• With no 2 ft
main posts
(except
the
corners),
the vertical
boards
can be 2”x
4”.
• But they
must be
maximum
2 ft
apart.
• This is not a
frame
structure.
• Why?
• No Dasa
(foot plate
or plinth
beam)
• No
bracings
• No solid
joints
5. Joints
• Dasa extension joints
• Wall joints
• Corner joints
Use a

• Scarf joint
or a
• Lap joint

to make the
Dasa
longer.
1 2

Scarf joint:
3
• How to
make a 1
scarf joint.

3 4
Tenon and mortise:
• To join the
posts with the
dasa, use
tenon and
mortise
joints.
Tenon and
mortise:
• You can add
straps…
Tenon and mortise:
• You can add
straps…
• … or nails to
secure the
joint.

(here straps
are better
than nails).
Nails only are not
enough!

• Wall plate
and posts
must be well
connected,
with tenon
and mortise
joints and
long nails
(4”– 5”) or
straps.
• Joints on top
of a
columns
are weak
points!
Laps are too short!
• Joints on top
of a
columns
are weak
points!
Laps are too short!

• And what is
this ???
• If you join
beams on
top of a
column, you
MUST add
a capital.
Connect with pegs!

• Use pegs
and tenon
and mortise
joints to
secure the Use a tenon and mortise joint!
pieces
against
horizontal
shift.
Solid straps

• Add straps
to secure
the pieces
against
vertical
mouvement.
• Joint
reinforced
with a good
strap
against
vertical
movement.
• It’s better to
put the
straps on
top and
bottom of
the beam.
• These
straps are
too
weak.
Why?
(check the
nails)

• Instead of
straps, you
can use
pegs or 4”
nails from
Corner
joints
• 3 methods
for the
dasa-post
joint in the
corner:

Quarter tenon Half tenon Added blocks


Quarter tenon:
• Overlap the
dasa in the
corners.
• Then place
the posts on
the dasa.
• Add
5”nails to
secure
connection.
1 2

Quarter tenon:
• How to make
the quarter
tenon corner
joint.

3 4
7. Walls and bracings
• Fill the walls
with
diagonal
pieces of
wood (1” to
2” thick).
• Walls can
be
subdivided
in small
panels in
many
ways...
• Like this...
• Or like this...
… but not like
this.

• Diagonals
are too
strong.
• Panels are
too big.
• Connection
with the
posts is
insufficient.
• No dasa.
Nail

• Nail the
diagonal
pieces well
to the posts,
with 3” to 4”
nails, so
that they
don’t get
pulled out
during an
earthquake.
• Diagonal
pieces were
not well
nailed to the
posts.
8. Windows and doors
• A well
placed
window
between
main posts.
• Don’t place
too many
openings in
the same
wall.
• It’s the walls
that make
the house
resist an
earthquake,
not the
windows.
• Windows
must be
placed 2 ft
away from
the corners.
• They must
be spaced
at 2 ft away
from each
other.
9. In-fills and plaster
Why is mud mortar better than concrete?

• A cement – sand infill makes the wall too rigid.


• The small panels cannot move individually and
absorbe the energy.
• Mud mortar is much more effective.
• Pine needles and straw can be added to make
the mortar more elastic.
• The mortar must be the same throughout the
whole building.
• Fill in the
spaces
with stone
and mud
mortar.
• Stones must
not be too
big. Small
stones are
better.
• These
stones are
also too big.
• The mud
infill is
insufficient.
• Perfectly
shaped
stones for
the infills are
less good
than
irregular
ones.
• You can add
straw or pine
needles to
the mud
mortar to
make it more
resistant.
• Plaster the
walls with
mud
containing
straw (for
more
strength).
• Finish the
wall with a
nice mud
plaster.
• Don’t use
cement, as
it will
break off
quickly.
10. Examples

• A one room house requiring 60 cft of timber


• Examples from other countries
Stone requirement

1 ft
1 ft

One room
2 ft

2 ft

house Foundation: 250 cft


Infills (-20%): 70 cft
• Material Total: 320 cft

requirement:

• Timber: 63-69 cft


• Stone: 320 cft
• CGI sheets:
340 sft + 58 rft
• Cement: 30
bags
• Sand: 35 cft
• Door 3.5’x7’:
1 pce
• Windows 4x4’:
2 pieces Approximately

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