Knitting Technology

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Chapter 1

General terms and principles

of knitting technology

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 1.1 Machine knitting

 Knitted structure are progressively

built up by converting newly fed yarn
into new loops in the needle hooks, the
needles then draw these new loop
through the old loop.

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 1.1 Machine knitting

Flat knitting machine

Circular knitting
machine

Weft knitting machine

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Single needle-bar warp
knitting machine
Double needle-bar warp
knitting machine

Warp knitting machine

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 1.1 Machine knitting

needle hook 针钩
newly-fed yarn
新喂入纱线 cast-off/
knock-over
old loop 脱圈
旧线圈

knitting cycle 成圈过程

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1.2 The knitted loop structure
针织线圈结构

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 1.3 A course 线圈横列
A course is a predominantly horizontal row of needle loops
(in an upright fabric as knitted) produced by adjacent
needles during the same knitting cycle.

 1.3.1 A course length 横列纱线长度

In weft knitted fabrics, a course of
loops is composed of a single length
of yarn termed a course length.
 1.3.2 A pattern row 花型横列
A pattern row is a horizontal row of
needle loops produced by adjacent
needles in one needle bed.
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 1.4 A wale 线圈纵行

A wale is a predominantly vertical column of

intermeshed/相互串套的 needle loops generally
produced by the same needle knitting at
successive (not necessarily all) knitting cycles.

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 1.5 Stitch density 线圈密度

Stitch density refers to the total number of

loops in a measured area of fabric and not to the
length of yarn in a loop (stitch length).

It is the total number of needle loops in a given

area (such as a square inch, or three square
centimeters).

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1.6 The main features of the
knitting machine

 The frame or carcass 机架

 The machine control and drive
system 机架控制和传动机构
 The yarn supply 给纱机构
 yarn package 纱筒
 beam 经轴
 tensioning devices 张力装置
 carriers of guides 导纱器

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1.6 The main features of the
knitting machine

 The knitting system 编织系统

 Take-away mechanism 牵拉卷取机
构
 Quality control system 质量控制机
构
 stop motions 自停
 fault detectors 疵点检测
 lint removal 飞花清除
 automatic oilers 自动加油

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 1.7 The needle 织针

Bearded needle latch needle compound needle

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 1.8 Fabric draw-off 织物牵拉

The fabric loops are always drawn from the

needles on the side remote from their
hooks/针背.

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 1.9 The basic knitting action of a
needle
1. The needle is in the rest position.
2. The loop is cleared from the hook
to a lower position.
3. The new yarn is fed to the needle.
4. The yarn is formed into a
‘new’loop.
5. The hook is closed.
6. The new loop is drawn through
Basic knitting action of a needle the head of the old loop.
Simultaneously the old loop is
cast off or knocked over.
7. Old loop hangs from the feet of
the fully formed new loop.
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 1.10 The bearded needle 钩针

 1.10.1 The main parts of the bearded needle

1. stem 针杆

2. head 针头

3. beard 针钩

4. eye/groove 针眼

5. shank 针柄

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The knitting action of the bearded needle

The knitting action of the bearded needle

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 Depending upon the machine, the needles are set
vertically or horizontally. The needle has the disadvantage
of requiring a pressing edge to close the bearded hook and
enclose the new loop. The presser may be in the form of a
bar, blade, or wheel.

 Another feature of bearded needle knitting is that

individual loop formation has to be achieved by a loop
forming element. This leads to a more complicated knitting
action but also provides for a more gentle and careful loop
formation.

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 1.11 The latch needle 舌针

 1.11.1 The history and development of

the latch needle

• The first latch needle/the tumbler needle

The first latch needle was patented in 1806 but there is
no evidence of its practical use.

• The self-acting needle

In 1849, self-acting needle was patented and applied, it
began to challenge the bearded needle.

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 1.11.2 The features of the latch needle

1. hook 针钩

2. slot/saw cut 针舌槽

3. cheeks/slot walls 针舌槽壁

4. rivet 针舌销

5. latch-blade 针舌

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 1.11.2 The features of the latch needle

6. latch spoon 针舌勺

7. stem 针杆

8. butt 针踵

9. tail 针尾

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 1.11.3 The advantages of the latch needle

1.being self-acting or loop-controlled

2. be widely used in weft knitting

3. be ideally suited for use with

computer-controlled electronic
selection devices

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1.11.3 The advantages of the latch needle
1. The rest position. The head
of the needle hook is level with
the top of the verge of the trick.
The loop formed at the previous
feeder is in the closed hook.

2. Latch opening. As the needle

butt passes up the incline of the
clearing cam, the old loop slides
inside the hook and contacts
the latch, turning and opening it.

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1.11.3 The advantages of the latch needle

3. Clearing height. When the

needle reaches the top of the
cam, the old loop is cleared
from the hook and latch spoon
onto the stem. At this point
the feed guide plate acts as a
guard to prevent the latch
from closing the empty hook.

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1.11.3 The advantages of the latch needle
4. Yarn feeding and latch
closing. The needle starts to
descend the stitch cam so
that its latch is below the
verge, with the old loop
moving under it. At this point
the new yarn is fed through a
hole in the feeder guide to
the descending needle hook.
The old loop contacts the
underside of the latch,
causing it to close onto the
hook.

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1.11.3 The advantages of the latch needle
5. Knocking-over and loop
length formation. As the
head of the needle descends
below the top of the trick,
the old loop slides off the
needle and the new loop is
drawn through it. The
continued descent of the
needle draws the loop length.
The length is determined by
the depth setting of the
stitch cam.

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 1.12 The bi-partite compound
needle复合针
Compound needles consist of two separately-controlled
parts – the open hook/针身 and the sliding closing element/
针芯 (tongue, latch, piston, plunger).
The tubular pipe needle 管针

The open-stem ‘pusher

type’ or slide needle 槽针

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 1.13 A comparison of latch and
compound needles

1.more intricate and expensive to

manufacture

2.The vertical clearing height is not so high

3.When clearing, it does not cause stretching

of needle loops and robbing of yarn from
adjacent sinker loops

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 1.13 A comparison of latch and
compound needles

4.it can be producing a larger area inside the

hoot that can accommodate thicker yarns

5.be suitable for knitting fine warp knitted

structures at high speed

6.be employed widely in warp knitting

machines

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 1.14 Machine gauge 机号

The pitch/针距, or distance between one needle

and another, is proportional to the needle gauge
or thickness.

Machine gauge can be calculated by dividing the

total number of needles into the length of the
needle bed. The figure is rounded to the nearest
whole number.

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