Pattern Making and Garment construction

Will try to understand:

1. Sewing machines and its history

2. What is seams ?
3. Classifications of seams
4. Uses of different seams.
Sewing Machine

A sewing machine is used to stitch the fabric and other pliable materials
together with threads. Sewing machines were invented during the first
Industrial Revolution to decrease the quantum of manual sewing done in
garment industries. Since its invention, it has greatly improved the
efficiency and productivity of the fabric, garment and needle industries.
Evolution of the sewing machine
• The sewing machine device was invented in 1790 by English inventor,
Thomas Saint, but he could not advertise his invention.

•He designed a wooden awl to make holes in leather and canvas, thus
allowing a needle and single piece of thread through to hook
underneath, and forming locked chain stitches.

•Josef Madersperger began developing the sewing machine in 1807 and

he presented the working machine in 1814.

•John Greenough patented the first sewing machine in the United

States in 1842.

•Elias Howe created a sewing machine in 1845.

 Types of Sewing Machines:
Though there are different types of sewing machine but mainly, three types are
considered for sewing, as given below.

1. Mechanical sewing machines

2. Electronic sewing machines

3. Computerised sewing machines

1. Mechanical sewing machines

These machines are less expensive and are the simplest type of sewing machines
in terms of build. They are the hand-operated sewing machine and treadle sewing
machine.
Hand-operated sewing machine

(i) This is the simplest form of domestic sewing

machine which is operated by hand.
(ii) A handle is attached to the flywheel which is
detachable and is used to operate the machine.
(iii) A hand-operated sewing machine is
generally used for domestic purpose for simple
projects as it does not work very speedily.
(iv) This machine is suitable where there is no
electricity supply.
Treadle sewing machine

(i) This machine is the same as a hand-operated

sewing machine but it is operated by feet, with
an additional stand attached to the machine.
(ii) A belt is attached to the lower stand passing
through the balance wheel and driven by feet.
(iii) These machines run faster than the hand-
operated sewing machine.
(iv) This machine is also suitable for the places
where there is no electric supply.
(v) When handling the treadle sewing machine,
both the hands of the Operator are free to
handle the fabric. Hence, this speeds up the
work of sewing.
2. Electronic sewing machine

These machines became popular during the 1970s. There are many more features
in an electronic sewing machine than in a mechanical sewing machine.

(i) These sewing machines run faster than manually operated machines.

(ii) In the electronic machines, balance wheel comes to motion by a belt, which is
attached to an electric motor.

(iii) A single motor is attached to the electronic sewing machines and this motor
supplies power to the needle.

(iv) It is essential to control the speed of this machine by putting pressure on an

electronic foot pedal.

(v) Practice is essential to handle an electric sewing machine.

3. Computerized sewing machines
(i) These sewing machines are very fast and specific to use.

(ii) These machines are similar to the electronic sewing machines. However, a
computerized sewing machine works with the help of various softwares.

(iii) Computerized sewing machines allow the Operator to tailor the functions
according to the sewing needs. A computerized sewing machine functions vary
appropriately in designing and stitching various components of the garment like
sleeves, yokes, pockets, etc. These advanced computerized machines have an LED
display or LCD display or touch screen. They are multi function machines and are
expensive.
The following are some other types of sewing machines according to their
specific applications.

(i) Lock stitch machine

(ii) Chain stitch machine
(iii) Double chain stitch machine
(iv) Buttonhole machine
(v) Button stitch machine
(vi) Bar-tack machine
(vii) Feed off arm machine
(viii) Over-lock machine
(ix) Blind stitch machine
(x) Over-edge machine
Seams and Seam Classifications
 What is a Seam?

Seam is a term which refers to the stitching line where two fabrics are stitched
together. It is the basic building block of a garment. They form the structure of
the garment and help to create the garment. They are also used as a decorative
feature.

The stitching line along the seam is called the seam line.The seam allowance (SA)
is the space between the fabric edge and the seam line.

Seams should be carefully done for a beautifully finished garment. Knowledge of

the seam finishes will enhance the look of your sewn garment.
Type of Seams:
1. Plain Seam
2. Plain Seam with a single stitch
3. Plain seam with a double top stitch
4. Hairline seam
5. Lapped seam (also called Tucked seam)
6. French seam
7. Flat Felled seam or Run and fell seam
8. Mock flat fell seam
9. Corded or piped seam
10. Faced seam
11. Hemmed fell seam
12. Mock french seam
13. Serged seam
14. Slot seam
15. Counter seam
16. Butt seam
17. Sheet seam/linen seam
18. Hand stitched seam-with ladder stitch
How to decide which seam is suitable for your sewing.

There are some things to take into consideration when deciding what seams to use.

1. Type of fabric – “What kind of fabric is it ?” is a top consideration. If it is a sheer

fabric the seam finish you select will be very different from what it will, if the fabric is
a heavy weight Brocade cloth. A loosely woven cotton seam will be finished
differently from a rayon blend fabric seam. A lace cloth will have a different seam
than a denim cloth.

2. Seam placement – A curved seam will be differently treated from a straight seam.
If it is exposed seam as in a pants, it will be different from an enclosed seam as in a
yoke or a collar.

3. Sewing machine – What is your sewing machine capable of? What attachments do
you have?, are also important – if you have a serger or at least a zig zag machine you
have more possibilities than a simple straight stitch machine.

4. Garment purpose and use – A child’s dress will need a more sturdy seam than a
camisole top. A wedding gown will not have the same seam finish as a biker’s gear.
1. Plain Seam

In a Plain seam, two fabrics are joined together along the seam line by a line of
stitching. It is also called a single needle Butterfly stitch as once the seam is
made the seam allowances are pressed open to either side of the seam line to
look like a butterfly.

This seam requires a seam finish for its exposed edges.

The advantage of a plain seam is that this seam does not add bulk to the seam
lines. But as it has only a single line of stitch the strength of the seam is not that
great.
How to sew a Plain seam

• Keep the two fabrics together with right

sides together.

• Make sure that stitching lines are aligned.

•
• Pin in place Stitch along the line you have
made marking the seam line.

• Start stitching and then do a back stitch

for strength.

• At the end also do a back stitch and then a

forward stitch.
 2. Plain Seam with Single stitch

A single top stitching seam, this seam is a strong seam as well as a decorative
one.

How to sew a Plain seam with a single overcast stitch

To get this effect, after plain seam is done, press both the seam allowances to
one side and give top stitching on that side.

3. Plain Seam with Double top stitch

Double top stitching seam ; This is a decorative seam which also provides great
strength to the seam line.

How to sew a Plain seam with double top stitch

To get this seam, after the plain seam seam allowances are pressed open on both
the sides and top stitched on both sides of the seam at equal distances.
4. Hairline seam

This is a type of enclosed seam which is mostly

used for collars and other enclosed areas. The
seam allowances are not visible from the
outside as it gets enclosed.

How to sew a Hairline seam

Make a plain seam using a very tight straight

stitch, with the fabrics right side together. Trim
away very close to the stitching line. Press the
seam. Turn right side out.
You can make a top stitch to secure the seam
5. Lapped Seam

This is a very useful seam when sewing

with heavy fabrics like suede, artificial
leather, felt.

How to sew a Lapped seam

Decide on which fabric piece will be on

top with the lapped application. Turn
under the seam allowance of that piece
along the seam line and press in place.
Keep the folded fabric on top of the
other fabric along the seam line. The
seam lines should align. Pin together to
keep it in place. Edge stitch close to the
folded edge
6. French Seam

This is the best seam for

sheer fabrics. As this seam
encloses the raw edges in
a fold, the raw edges are
not seen from outside
without adding
much bulk.

This seam is usually done

on straight edges but if
you clip nicely it can also
be done on curved edges.
How to sew French seam

For this seam unlike other seams, you have to start

with wrong sides of the fabric together matching the
stitching lines ( instead of right sides together)to
make a plain seam.
First on right side of the fabric, mark the stitching
line with 1/2″ seam allowance. Then on the wrong
side Mark a line half way through the original seam
allowance i.e for a 1/2 inch seam allowance mark a
stitching line at 1/4″

Stitch the plain seam through this 1/4″ line.

Trim the seam allowance a little bit.

Now fold the fabric over at the seam RIGHT SIDES
TOGETHER, covering the raw edges. Press.
Stitch on the original seam line. ( at the 1/2″ mark)
right sides of the fabric together

Press flat and then to one side.

Now the raw edges are nicely enclosed in the back.
7. Flat Felled seam or Run and Fell seam

Mostly used in sports wear, men’s shirts, jeans

kids clothes, pajamas etc. It provides adequate
strength to the seam line. This seam can be
stitched inside as well as outside the garment

How to sew a Flat felled seam ?

Make a plain seam.
Press both the seam allowance to one side. One
seam allowance is trimmed to 1/8 inch.
Turn the larger seam allowance up and over the
smaller one, all the way nearly to the seam line
stitched earlier. Use an iron to press this .
Now fold the whole seam over on itself to the
other side so that the raw edge is now hidden
and press again.
Edge stitch over the fold. Make sure that an
even distance is maintained from the original
seam line.
8. Mock Flat fell seam

his is a seam which looks a lot like Flat fell seam but is easier to make.
Unlike the flat fell seam here the raw edge is not turned under. So this seam will
have exposed raw edges of the seams on the wrong side. Hence it is better to be
used with fabrics which do not fray or where the seam will not be seen. This is a
great seam for a bulky fabric like felt or synthetic leather.

How to sew a mock flat fell seam.

Stitch a plain seam as usual with right sides together.

Decide on the side you will be sewing the seam allowance to. Trim the seam
allowance of that side to half of what it is. Press the seam allowance to that
side.( now the wider seam allowance will be over the smaller one
Now turn to the rightside of the fabric. Edge stitch close to the seam line.
Then turn to the other side and stitch along the raw edge. Now there will be two
rows of stitching parallel to the seam line.
9. Corded or piped seam

In this seam a fabric covered cording is inserted

between the seam line . It is a decorative seam
and is mostly used in collars, cuffs, pockets and
home decorating fabrics

How to sew a Corded or piped seam

For this seam bias strip covered cords are used.

You can either buy a pre covered cording or buy
cording and cover it yourself. It is sewn with a
zipper foot attachment. The cord is kept snugly
inside the bias strip and then using the zipper
foot the bias strip is sewn close sandwiching
the cord inside. The stitching line should be
made as close to the cord as possible without
the needle touching the cord.
10. Faced Seam

A faced seam is usually used in the seams of armholes, necklines and

waistlines. It creates a very good finish to the seam line

How to sew a faced seam

Make a facing for the seam sew it to the seam line

grade the seam allowance to half its width.
Press the seam allowance to the facing side
Under stitch the seam allowance to the facing close to the seam line
This under stitching prevents the seam from rolling to the outside of the
garment
11. Hemmed fell seam

How to sew a hemmed fell seam

Make a plain seam. One seam side is trimmed to half of the other side. The
other seam is turned down and hemmed by hand.

12. Mock French Seam

This is a seam which can be used in place of french seam where a french
seam may not be possible like in a curved seam line, for eg. armholes of a
transparent dress. This will neatly finish the seam line also.
13. Serged seam

We need a Serger or Overlock machine for this seam. In this seam instead of a
plain straight stitch the serger stitch is used on the seams and the seam allowance
is trimmed by the machine.This seam gives stretch and flexibility to the seam.

This seam can be used under the following conditions

1. If it is not important that seams are kept flat or open.

2. For loose garments
3. On lightweight fabrics
4. When sewing with knits

How to sew a Serged seam

Place right sides of the fabrics together
matching the stitching lines.
Keep the fabric under the needle
The serger will automatically trim the seam
allowance
 14. Slot Seam

This seam which is similar to the lapped seam,

is used for its functional as well as decorative
properties.

How to sew a slot seam

Keep a 1 1/2″ wide cloth, as long as the seam,

under the seams. This is used as a backing
piece kept between the two fabric lapped
along the stitching line.
15. Counter Seam
A very suitable seam for heavy
materials, in this both the raw edges
are enclosed by both the seam
allowances along the seam line

How to sew a counter seam

Turn under the seam allowances of

both the fabric pieces to the wrong
side. Press
Place the wrong side of the first piece
of fabric on the right side of the
second piece along the edges,
keeping the seam allowances. Pin in
place
Stitch along the folded edge.
16. Butt Seam
The fabric edges are folded and joined together by a zig zag stitch or chain
stitch. This is used when joining seams where you do not want any bulk.
For example when sewing lingerie. You can make this kind of seam with
the help of a sewing machine

17. Sheet seam/linen seam

This is a seam where we use an an
embroidery stitch to join the seams. It
looks absolutely beautifully though not
as strong as the other seams The
stitches can be set horizontally or
slanting.
How to do this seam
Finish the fabric edges
Tack the edges of the two fabric ends
with a buttonhole bar stitch
Work the stitches between the fabric
edges; Interlacing, knots, twisting
all work between the edges
18. Hand stitched seam-with ladder stitch

Ladder stitch is one of the invisible stitches that can give you a
beautifully hand sewn seam.
THANKYOU