Productivity

Improvement Through
Lean Manufacturing
Tools:
A CASE STUDY ON ETHIOPIAN GARMENT INDUSTRY

By: A. Satadeep Datta

B. Divya Dharshan I
 Problems Faced by Adama Garment Industry(AGI)
Problems Faced by International AGI Average
the Industry Standards/ Ideal Standard
Standards
Fabric Wastage For Woven is 8% to 15% 23% for military uniform
15.7% for logistic jackets
Rework Process For Woven is less than 2% Average 9.7%
(i.e. out of 3477.1 it is 355.1
pieces)
Absenteeism Allowed below 1% Average 15.62%
(For a time span of 24 days)
Real Line Efficiency After line balancing:- 83.3% Before line balancing:- 56%

Problems in Cutting Order number label, arranging Poor space utilization, crowded
Section way has been according to semi-finished fabrics, dirty area
destination and degree of usage

Longer Productivity Time 292 pieces in 8 hours 250 pieces in 8 hours

Cost of Production 3.69 ETB/shirt 5.5 ETB/shirt

Lean Manufacturing Tools

 Standardization of work process : A systematic determination and

documentation of work element sequence and process for each
operation.
 Line balancing : Considering working distance, type of machines
and efficiency, workers have extra time to work after completing
their works, have been shared there work to complete the
bottleneck processes(example finishing).
 5 S : Sort , Systemize setting/organizing/stabilizing,
Sweep shine/clean, Standardize, and Sustain/Self-
discipline, these will give the workers an opportunity to learn
how to develop and maintain a clean and organized work place.
SAM : Standard Allowable Minute

 Standard allowed minutes (SAM) = (Basic minute + Bundle allowances +

machine and personal allowances)
 It is the time required for a qualified worker working at “Standard Performance”
to perform a given task. The SMV includes additional allowances for Rest and
Relaxation, Machine Delay and anticipated Contingencies
 SMV= Basic time + Allowance.
 Basic time= Observed time X Rating/ 100.
 Allowance= Relaxation allowance + Contingency allowance + Machine Delay
Allowance.
 Rating= the pace or speed of operation at which the operator is performing the
job.
Work Standardization :- To compute the standard allowable minutes(SAM) first the
product is broke down in 9 elements, then 5 preliminary samples was taken to
determine the number of cycle to be timed the whole process of the model.
Therefore, ‘n’ = the number of observations required = 13.10 cycles

A total of 24 cycles where taken in order to get accurate data for the complete garment production
process of the model.
An allowance of 17% was allowed for all operations and the total SAM came to be 34.16 mins.

Summary of SAM of Military T-

shirt:-
Main Element SAM(min.) Main Element SAM(min.)
Task Task
Pocket preparation 2.81 Sleeve preparation 2.01
Collar preparation 1.7 Front body and 1.38
Yoke preparation
Flap preparation 2.7 Final Assembly 13.29
Epaulet 2.71 Trimming 4.43
preparation
Cuff preparation 3.13 Total 34.16
 Productivity Measurement (before line
 balancing)
Factors considered:- 25 sewing machine, 32 labors, full supply of materials, no power
interruptions.
 Thus with this actual production per day was 250 shirts on a selected line, in one working
shift, thus organization efficiency is 65%. Salary per labor and working day per month is
861 ETB and 20 days respectively.
 Real line efficiency = 56%, Balancing loss = 44%
 But, Production target(P)= 292 shirts/day
 Total Labor sewing Productivity = (250 shirt/day/line) / (32 labor) = 8 Shirts/day/line
 Machine Productivity = (250 shirts/day) / (25 machines) = 10 shirts/day/machine
 Value of direct labor cost(DLC) = (861 ETB/month) * (32 labors) / (20 days/month) =
1377.6 ETB/day
 Value of per shirt = (1377.6 ETB/day) / (250 shirts/day) = 5.5 ETB/shirt
 Rank Positional Weight : RPW
 Definition: It is a method used for line development and balancing. It takes into
account the precedence relationships as well as processing time of all tasks.
 Steps involved:-
 Step 1: Draw the precedence diagram
 Step 2: For each work element, determine the positional weight. It is the total time
on the longest path from the beginning of operation to the last operation of the
network.
 Step 3: Rank the work elements in descending order of ranked positional weight
(R.P.W).
 Step 4: Assign the work element to a station. Choose the highest RPW element.
Then, select the next one. Continue till cycle time is not violated. Follow the
precedence constraints also.
 Step 5: Repeat step 4 till all operations are allotted to one station.
 Work Element RPW Time(min. Predecess
RPW Station ) or
1 69 1 …….
Step 1. precedence diagram 2 68 8 1
3 60 9 1,2
4 51 4 1,3
1 5 47 1 1,4
6 46 6 1,5
7 40 3 1,6
8 37 2 7
9 35 1 8
10 34 2 1,9
Step 2. Choose the Longest path 2 11 32 4 1,10
and Step3. Arrange it in Descending Order 12 28 8 1,11

Thus in this example the order would be 13 20 8 1,12

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 14 12 5 1,13
17 15 7 2 1,14
16 5 4 1,15
17 1 1 16
Line Balancing
Calculating cycle time = C = [(Total time available) / (period)] / [(Total output
required) / (period)] = 480 mins / 292 shirts = 1.64 mins/shirt
To minimize the cycle time the production target was taken than actual production,
thus
N = Sum of task time(t) / C = 34.16mins / 1.64 mins = 20.82, i.e. 21
Now Rank positional weight (RPW) is used thus a total of 25 workstations are
required rather than 32 labors as in actual production.
Now the real line efficiency and balancing loss is calculated, which turns out to be
83.3% and 16.7% respectively.
NOTE : as per RPW 21 labors are required to produce 250 shirts per day,
whereas originally 32 labors were used to calculate from production
target to DLC.
 Production target = (25 labors) * (480mins/day) * (65%) / (34.16
mins./shirt) = 228 shirts/day
 Total labor sewing productivity = (292 shirts/day/line) / (25 labor) = 11
shirts/day/line
 Machine productivity = (292 shirts/day) / (25 machines) = 11
shirt/day/machine
 DLC = (861 ETB/month) * (25 labors) / (20 days/month) = 1076.25
ETB/day/line
 Value of production of per unit = (1076.25 ETB/day) / (292 shirts/day) =
3.69 ETB/shirt
Summary of Productivity before and after Line
Balancing
Productivity Variable Before Line Balancing After Line Balancing
Output Output
Labors per production line 32/production line 25/production line
Production capacity 250/day 292/day
Production Target 292units/day at 65% 228units/day at 65%
industry efficiency industry efficiency

Total labor sewing 8 shirts/labor/day 12 shirts/labor/day

productivity
Sewing machine 10 shirts/machine/day 12 shirts/machine/day
productivity
Balancing loss 44% 16.7%
Real line efficiency 56% 83..%
Value of Direct labor cost 1377.6 ETB/day/line 1076.25 ETB/day/line

Value of production of each 5.50 ETB/shirt 3.69 ETB/shirt

Shirt
 5 S : Sort, Systematize, Sweep,
Standardize, Sustain
 This tool is used in cutting section of the garment industry as a model.
 Sort 1 : All useless things have been sorted and eliminated. Order number labels
have been applied to all InProgress and finished fabrics. The temporary cut fabric
storage table, fabric cutting table, and the fabric cutting band saw machine have been
appropriately arranged. As a result 41 square meter area has been utilized.
 Sort 2 : Dirt, dust, waste fabric and other debris have been removed, floor areas and
temporary storage tables have been cleaned, all storing shelves have been cleaned, all
machines and tools have been cleaned.
 Sort 3 : The arranging way has been set according to destination and degree of
usage. In such case the fabric cutting table and fabric band saw were arranged
in L – shape layouts. Floor borders for walk ways or aisle ways(trolley), work ways, and
storage location, WIP(cut fabric storage), raw material storage areas have been
ergonomically marked using standard colors.
 Other Wastes that Reduces Productivity
 Fabric wastage: Saving small pieces of fabric loss from a piece cut can contribute a great role
in improving productivity. The important of the cutting process in the garment industry was
not over emphasized. Fabric is the most costly portion of any garment content and
can be approximately from 50%-70% of the garment cost . Since waste a small
quantity of fabric can reduce the profitability of the industry so it should be treated carefully.
 Rework of process: Rework is one of the main types of waste in lean manufacturing that
reduces productivity. Operators do not fix their mistakes but leave them for examiners to find
resulting in a high repair level.  Certain quality related problems, often observed in
garment manufacturing like sewing defects such as: open seams, wrong stitching
techniques, non-matching threads, missing stitches, improper creasing of the
garment, improper thread tension.
 Absenteeism: It is another serious problem contributing to low productivity. As per the
international benchmark, the amount of absenteeism is less than 1%. But the
existing value of absenteeism of the labors for six months recorded data (December, 2011-
March, 2012) in the garment industry was approximately 10.0%. In addition, the
observed average labors absenteeism in 24 days during the production of military T-shirt on
production line was 15.62%
Table: Amount of rework done Table: Absenteeism for a period of
24 days
Absenteeis Absenteeis
Some Total Total amount Days m per Day Days m per Day
common output rework Rework (%)
(%) (%)
products (pieces) (pieces)
1 4 (13%) 13 6 (19%)
Raincoat 1691 162 9.6 2 5 (16%) 14 6 (19%)
Work wear 1563 171 10.9 3 6 (19%) 15 5 (16%)
Military cap 4527 273 6 4 4 (13%) 16 5 (16%)
Shirt 5 5 (16%) 17 4 (13%)
1646 118 7.2
(Olive )
6 5 (16%) 18 4 (13%)
Jacket
3101 452 14.6 7 4 (13%) 19 6 (19%)
(Logistic)
Military shirt 8710 1084 12.4 8 4 (13%) 20 5 (16%)

Military
9 5 (16%) 21 4 (13%)
3102 226 7.3
trouser 10 5 (16%) 22 5 (16%)
Total 24340 2486 68 11 4 (13%) 23 4 (13%)
Average 3477.1 355.1 9.7 12 6 (19%) 24 6 (19%)
Ergonomically Describing
 In Ethiopia there are:
a. 397 small size, 7 medium and 32 large garment industries.
b. 1,961, 343 and 7,442 employees respectively.
 Totally, the sector creates a job opportunity for 9,756 employees.
 The workers in garment industry work in clothes designing, sewing or cutting
services, and clothes wholesaling.
 The work environment in a majority of these units is unsafe and unhealthy Due
to the nature of these jobs
 Musculoskeletal disorders are one of the leading causes of disability in
industrialized societies.
 Sewing machine operators face a substantially higher risk of muscle pain and
injury than workers in other jobs
The total reported injuries and illnesses
among the garment industry workers
Ergonomic factors that affecting workers in sewing department
 The sewing is an important area in the garment manufacturing.
 A cause and effect diagram was constructed as shown in Figure below.
Working environment in Adama garment
industry
 The following interpretation are
drawn
 Jobs were varied with respect to products, processes, and operations,
 Tasks were generally repetitive and burdensome to workers and they feel discomfort,
 Workspace was overcrowded,
 Sitting postures were typically constrained and uncomfortable.
 Time schedules were tight
 Required speeding up in performing tasks.
 Many seats were hard and wooden, without a to prevent tissue compression.
 Sharp bending of the neck was common, combined with sharp bending of the trunk among
taller workers, or moderate bending, among shorter workers.
 Equipment, including sewing machines, was generally old and inappropriately designed it is
made by other countries standard and imported.
 The temperature of Adama city was 28˚c at the time of research study conducted.
Results

 The subjects were 80 in number (aged from 20-45 years),

 With the mean age of 33years
 with about 32.5 % below 30 years,
 50% below 40 years, and
 They were experienced, with an average of 11.5 years.
 In addition, working hours per week is 44.
Summary of the problems

 Due to lack of time study, work measurement techniques and shortage of

special machine, the industry faces a poor line balancing.
 There is bottlenecks process due to unequal work distribution among the
workers.
 There is high motion or movement of labors from one workstation to
another due to the machine layout.
 There is a high unnecessary transport due to poor material handling.
 There is a high amount of rework due to machine oldness, poor working
thread, labor absenteeism, complexity of work, fabric color variation, poor
cut process and low operator skill.
 Neither the standard data nor the international bench mark data which to
evaluate operators performance, slow down quality control and efforts to
ensure product consistency.
 Conclusion
 Using work standardization there are considerable improvements the changing from
traditional layout to balanced layout model. sewing operations were standardized by
means of time and working procedures, this will help management to know the
production target per line and make the production plan before loading actual
products in the shop floor.
 The outputs have been increased to 292 pieces a day with 25 labors which
was previously recorded to 250 pieces a day with 32 labors per line. Hence,
after line balancing 21 labors are required to produce equal amount of piece in a day.
 Using 5s in the cutting section a 41 meter sq. areas has been utilized,
cleaned and attractive working area has been created, floor borders for walk ways or
aisle ways(trolly) WIP storage locations and raw materials storage areas have been
marked using standard yellow colors. Also the WIP parts (cut fabric) has been sorted
and coded with batch number.
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