Chapter 17

Hairstyling

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“You can’t be brave if you’ve only had
wonderful things happen to you.”

– Mary Tyler Moore

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Objectives

• Demonstrate finger waving, pin curls, roller setting, and

hair wrapping.

• Demonstrate various blow-dry styling techniques.

• Demonstrate the proper use of thermal irons.

• Demonstrate various thermal iron manipulations and

explain how they are used.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Objectives (continued)

• Describe the three types of hair pressing.

• Demonstrate the procedures involved in soft pressing

and hard pressing.

• Demonstrate three basic techniques of styling long hair.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Wet-Styling Tools

• Combs
• Brushes
• Rollers (short, medium, or long)
• Clips (duckbills, double-pronged, single-pronged)
• Pins
• Clamps

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Finger Waving

The process of shaping and directing the hair into alternate

parallel waves and designs using the fingers, comb,
waving lotion, and hairpins or clippies.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Finger-Waving Lotion

• Makes hair pliable and holds it in place

• Made of karaya gum
• Diluted for use on fine hair
• Concentrated for regular or coarse hair
• Harmless to hair; no flakes when dry
• Avoid excessive amounts of

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 Horizontal Finger Waving

• Preparing Hair for Wet Styling

• Horizontal Finger Waving

• Procedures will be covered during the practical class.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Pin Curls

• Parts of a Curl
– Base
– Stem
– Circle

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Mobility of a Curl

– No-stem

– Half-stem

– Full-stem

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 Shaping

• Begin at open end of a shaping.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Open- and Closed-Center Curls

• Open-center curls • Closed-center curls

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Curl and Stem Direction

• Forward movement

• Reverse movement

• Upward movement

• Downward movement

• Clockwise

• Counterclockwise

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Pin Curl Foundations or Bases

• Rectangular base • Arc base

• Triangular base • Square base

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Pin Curl Techniques

• Ribboning

• Waves

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Pin Curl Techniques (continued)

• Carved/sculptured curls

• Ridge curls

• Skip waves

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Creating Volume with Pin Curls

• Cascade curls

• Barrel curls

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Roller Curl Advantages

• Speed

• Increased strength

• Greater creativity

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Parts of a Roller Curl

• Base

• Stem

• Curl

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Choosing Roller Size

• C-shaped curl • Curls

• Wave

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Roller Placement

• On base • Off base

• Half base • Indentation

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Wet Styling

• Wet set with rollers

• Procedure will be covered during practical class.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Rollers

• Hot rollers: used on dry hair only; heated electrically or

by steam

• Velcro™ rollers: used on dry hair only for 5 to 10 minutes

(not allowed in some states)

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Back-Combing Technique

• Section hair.
• Insert comb.
• Press comb to scalp.
• Create cushion base.
• Repeat for volume.
• Smooth hair.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Back-Brushing Technique

• Hold strand.
• Place brush.
• Roll brush.
• Turn brush.
• Blend hair.
• Complete styling.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Hair Wrapping

• Hair Wrapping Procedure

• Procedure will be covered during practical class.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Thermal Styling

• The process of drying and styling damp hair in one

operation

• Today’s women desire styles that require less time and

effort to maintain.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Blow-Dry Styling Tools

• Blow-dryer
– Handle
– Slotted nozzle
– Small fan
– Heating element
– Speed/heat controls
– Diffuser

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Combs, Picks, Clips

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Brushes

• Classic styling brush

• Paddle brush
• Grooming brush
• Vent brush
• Round brush
• Teasing brush

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Styling Products

• Foam or mousse • Volumizers

• Gels • Pomade or wax

• Liquid gels or texturizers • Silicone shiners

• Straightening gels • Hair spray or finishing

spray

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Blow-Dry Cautions

• Don’t hold dryer in one place too long.

• Direct air flow.

• Direct hot air away from scalp.

• Move in back-and-forth motion.

• Partially dry before style blow-drying.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Blow-Dry Procedures

• Blow-drying short, layered, curly hair

• Diffusing long, curly hair

• Blow-drying straight or wavy hair for volume

• Blow-drying blunt or long-layered hair into straight style

• Procedures will be covered during practical class.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Thermal Hairstyling

• Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed dry

hair using thermal irons and special manipulative
techniques

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Thermal Irons

• Four parts
– Rod handle
– Shell handle
– Barrel or rod
– Shell

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Flat Irons

• Range in size from 1/2 inch to 3 inches across

• Used to create smooth, straight styles

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Testing Thermal Irons

• Heat iron.

• Clamp heated iron over tissue.

• Note if paper scorches.

• Let cool as needed.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Care of Thermal Irons

• Wash with soap and water.

• Use fine sandpaper or steel wool.

• Oil joint.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Thermal Iron Comb

• Size

• Holding comb

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Manipulating Thermal Irons

• Grasp handles with dominant hand.

• Place three middle fingers on back of lower handle, with

little finger in front and thumb in front of upper handle.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Practice with Cold Irons

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Other Types of Curls

• Spiral curls
– Part hair.
– Insert iron.
– Rotate iron.
– Hold for 4 to 5 seconds.
– Remove iron.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Other Types of Curls (continued)

• End curls.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Other Types of Curls (continued)

• Volume-base thermal curls

– Section off base.
– Hold strand at 135-degree angle.
– Slide iron over strand.
– Wrap strand over rod with medium tension.
– Maintain position for 5 seconds.
– Roll curl and place on base.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Other Types of Curls (continued)

• Full-base thermal curls

– Section off base.
– Hold strand at 125-degree angle.
– Slide iron over strand.
– Wrap strand with medium tension.
– Maintain position for 5 seconds.
– Roll curl and place firmly on base.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Other Types of Curls (continued)

• Half-base thermal curls

– Section off base.
– Hold hair at 90-degree angle.
– Slide iron over hair strand.
– Wrap strand over rod with medium tension.
– Maintain position for 5 seconds.
– Roll curl and place it half on base.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Other Types of Curls (continued)

• Off-base thermal curls

– Section off base.
– Hold hair at 70-degree angle.
– Slide iron over strand.
– Wrap strand over rod with medium tension.
– Maintain position for 5 seconds.
– Roll curl and place off base.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
Finished Thermal Curl Settings

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Safety Measures
• Get instructions for use of irons.

• Keep irons clean.

• Do not overheat.

• Test temperature.

• Handle carefully.

• Place hot irons in safe place to cool.

• Don’t place handles too close to heater.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Safety Measures (continued)

• Properly balance irons in heater.

• Use hard rubber or nonflammable combs.
• Do not use metal combs.
• Place comb between scalp and iron.
• Curl only clean, dry hair.
• Avoid fishhooks.
• Use gentle setting on chemically-treated hair.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Thermal Hair Straightening Types

• Soft press

• Medium press

• Hard press

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Analysis of Hair and Scalp

• Wave pattern of hair • Elasticity of hair

• Length of hair • Shade of hair

• Texture of hair • Condition of hair

• Feel of hair • Condition of scalp

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Texture and Feel of Hair

• Coarse, overly curly

• Medium

• Fine

• Wiry

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Pressing and Scalp Conditions

• Normal

• Tight (with coarse hair)

• Flexible

• Intake Form

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 Conditioning Treatments

• Cosmetic preparations

• Thorough brushing

• Scalp massage

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Pressing Combs

• Construction
• Handles
• Teeth
• Tempering the comb
– Heat comb.
– Remove comb.
– Coat in oil.
– Cool and rinse.

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 Pressing Combs (continued)

• Heating the comb

• Testing the temperature

• Attachment

• Cleaning the comb

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 Pressing Combs (continued)

• Cleaning the comb

– Wipe clean of loose hair, grease, and debris.
– Remove carbon with emery board, steel wool, or fine
sandpaper.
– Immerse in hot baking-soda solution for one hour.
– Rinse and dry thoroughly.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Pressing Oil Benefits

• Makes hair softer

• Prepares hair for pressing
• Prevents hair from burning
• Helps prevent breakage
• Conditions hair after pressing
• Adds sheen
• Helps retain press

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 Soft Pressing for Normal Curly Hair

• 17-17 Soft Curl Press

• Procedure will be covered during practical class.

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 What to Avoid When Pressing

• Excessive heat or pressure on hair and scalp

• Too much pressing oil on hair (can attract dirt)

• Perfumed pressing oil near scalp

• Too-frequent hair pressing (can weaken hair)

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 Reminders and Hints

• Keep comb clean and carbon free.

• Avoid overheating pressing comb.
• Test comb temperature.
• Adjust temperature.
• Use comb carefully to avoid burning skin.
• Prevent smoking/burning of hair.
• Use moderately warm comb at temples and nape.

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 Injuries

• Immediate physical damage

• Not immediately evident

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 Special Considerations

• Pressing fine hair

• Pressing short fine hair

• Pressing coarse hair

• Pressing tinted, lightened, or gray hair

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 Styling Long Hair: Updos

• Valuable service
– Weddings
– Proms
– Other evening events

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Client Consultation

• Determine client desires.

• For wedding, use magazines, suggest trial run, bring

headpiece.

• Suggest trial run.

• If bridal, bring headpiece.

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 Styling Long Hair

• Knot: also called a chignon

• Twist: elegant, sleek look that can go anywhere

• Pleat: traditional updo used for weddings and black-tie

events (sometimes called a classic French twist)

• Procedures will be covered during practical class.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Summary and Review

• What is the purpose of finger waving?

• What are the three parts of a pin curl?

• Name the four pin curl bases and their uses.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Summary and Review (continued)

• Describe the three kinds of roller curl bases and the uses of
each.
• What is the purpose of back combing and back brushing?
• How can you avoid burning the client’s scalp during blow-
drying?
• List and describe various styling products used in blow-
drying.
• How is volume achieved with thermal curls?

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Summary and Review (continued)

• List at least 10 safety measures for using thermal irons.

• Name and describe three types of hair presses.

• How do you test the pressing comb before beginning a

service?

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Summary and Review (continued)

• What are the considerations in a hair and scalp analysis

prior to hair pressing?

• Under what circumstances should hair not be pressed?

• List at least four safety measures that must be followed

when pressing hair.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.
 Congratulations!

You have completed one unit of study

toward course completion.

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copied, or duplicated, or posted to a publicly accessible website, in whole or in part.