Resist Dyed Textiles

Short Questions , long questions

and Their Answers

Submitted By : Snigdha Singh

Short Question
Section
 Question 1:From where did the
primary visual evidence for the
production of resist dyed textiles
is derived ?

Answer : The primary visual evidence for the

production of resist dyed textiles in ancient India
is derived from the cave paintings at Ajanta in
western India.
 Question 2 : Where did the
great numbers of resist dyed
clothes produced in the modern
era are preserved ?

Answer : Great numbers of resist dyed clothes

produced in the modern era are preserved in
important museum collections.
Question 3 : What are the types
of resist dyeing techniques ?

Answer : All types of resist dyeing

techniques are based on two elementary
forms, like, folding and screening.
 Question 4 : What is resist
dyeing by folding ?

Answer : Resist dyeing by folding is done as the

fabric is crumpled, knotted, rolled and pleated in
several folds. The dye solution can only partially
penetrate into the folds.
Question 5 : How is resist dyeing
done by the method of wrapping ?

Answer : The method of wrapping in resist dyeing

includes rolled or folded material to be wrapped in
such a way that no dye can reach parts pressed
together. Simple wrapping gives the striped pattern
but folding of the material in two directions results is
a chequered pattern.
 Question 6 : How is resist dyeing
done using plangi ?
Answer : Portions of the fabric are lifted and tied in such a
way that one gets spherical or mould like forms. The
covering acts as resist and influences the pattern through
their actual form and sizes, as well as by the way the thread
is wound around the part and tied. Generally the Indonesian
word “Plangi” is used for this technique.
Question 7 : What is stencil
resist dyeing ?

Answer : Stencils that prevent dyes from

penetrating into the fabric are fixed on it
before the colouring is applied.
Question 8 : What is wax or
paste resist dyeing ?

Answer : Certain parts of the fabric are sprayed,

painted or coated with liquids or pastels (like
mud or gum) or molten wax which acts as a
screen against the dye. These substances can be
removed after dyeing by heating, or dissolving .
Question 9: What is mordant
resist dyeing ?

Answer : Certain portions of the fabric are

covered with mordents containing iron and
alum. On dyeing, only the treated portions take
up the colour, as in the famous Kalamkari
technique.
 Question 10 : How is resist
dyeing done with yarn or ikat ?

Answer : Certain portions (either warp or weft or warp

and weft both) are made to resist the dye by wrapping.
The yarn has to be arranged before tying and dyeing in
the same way as it will be used in the loom. The technique
of resisting yarn is best known as Ikat. In India the double
Ikat silk textiles (from Gujarat) are known as Patola.
Long Question
Section
Question 1 : What is the historical
background of resist dyeing ?
Answer : The primary visual evidence for the production
of resist dyed textiles in ancient India is derived from the
cave paintings at Ajanta in western India. Some of the
murals from 6th to 7th century portray women wearing
fabrics that were apparently patterned with the resist
dyeing technique.
A more detailed illustration of resist dyed textiles begins to
appear with the availability of illustrated Jain manuscripts
from the twelfth century onwards. Resist style patterns
imitated in block printing, also appear in several cotton
fragments excavated at Fustat and related sites at Egypt.
Substantial material evidence for India’s resist dyeing skills
becomes available only in the 19th century. Great numbers of
resist dyed clothes produced in the modern era are preserved
in important museum collections
 Question 2 : What is resist
dyeing and its techniques ?

Answer : The Indian dyers have been known for their early
mastery in colouring yarn and fabric with resist techniques.
These dyeing methods are applied to decorate textiles in
colour by partially resisting the fabric or fibre before
dyeing. . In this the ornamental motifs are not produced by
weaving or by embroidery, painting or appliqué work on the
fabric. The designs are created by leaving some portions of
fabric undyed.
 o Types of Resist Dyeing Techniques
• All types of resist dyeing techniques are based on two
elementary forms, like, folding and screening. Whereas
in folding parts of the fabric itself form the resist, in
screening additional materials are used for covering
certain portions of the textile. By variously modifying
and combining these two techniques many types of
resist dyeing techniques have been developed.
Question 3 : What is Leheria ?
Explain.

Answer : The fabric is rolled from one corner diagonally

to the selvedge and tied very tightly at intervals with
strong thread. After dyeing the reserved portions appear
as white diagonal stripes. Sometimes only individual parts
between two ties are dipped into the dye, or the dye is
applied by hand. Leheria fabrics are mostly used as
turban cloths and saris. Single colour turban clothes are
known as Rajasthani Leheriya.
 Question 4 : What is bandhani ?
Elaborate.

Answer : Cotton, silk, wool and even synthetic textiles are

used to produce the type of fabric. Today, malmal, a thin
cotton tissue, and georgette, a loosely woven silk, and
artificial silks are also used. The ties of Bandhani fabrics,
especially of the folded ones with small dots remain on the
textiles until they are sold or they are opened at the corner to
show the colour scheme. As long as the ties remain, the
customer can be sure that he is not buying a printed
• For remaining all reserves, the fabric is forcibly
pulled crosswise so that all the ties open at once
and fall. Bandhani work is used for saris,
odhanis, and dupattas as well as for turbans,
shirts, skirts and trousers. The most important
centers of Bandhani textiles are Gujarat and
Rajasthan. In Gujarat the largest and the
bestknown workshops are found in Saurashtra
especially in Jamnagar; other equally famous
centres are in Kutch.
 Question 5 : What is Mashru ?
What is the main centre of mashru
fabrication ?

Answer : Silk is used as warp and cotton as weft. The

weave is satin which causes a smooth right side of the
fabric with nearly invisible cotton parts. The design
consists of long stripes in different colours sometimes
enriched by small stripes with very simple woven
patterns. Sometimes the Ikat patterns may cover the
whole surface of the fabric.
Mashru means permitted. Originally it denotes
the fabric used by orthodox muslim men who
are forbidden to wear garments of pure silk.
• Today one of the main centres of Mashru
fabrication is Patan where about 250 families
are occupied in this trade.
 Question 6 : What is Ikat ?

Answer : Certain portions (either warp or weft or warp

and weft both) are made to resist the dye by wrapping.
The yarn has to be arranged before tying and dyeing in
the same way as it will be used in the loom. The technique
of resisting yarn is best known as Ikat. In India the double
Ikat silk textiles (from Gujarat) are known as Patola.
Of the many resist dyeing processes that have
survived into the 20th century in different
parts of India, the principle ones include the
Patola and Bandhani of Gujarat, the Ikat of
Orissa and Andhra Pradesh and the
Bandhani and Leheria of Rajasthan.
 Question 7 : Explain Ikat
technique of Orissa.

Answer : The Ikat products of Orissa are characterized

by an exceedingly fine structure of the motifs and well-
matched and soft colours as well as by their manifoldness.
The patterns of these textiles are partly resist dyed and
partly woven. The Ikat technique is used for the warp as
well as for the weft of the same cloth .
Orissa Ikats are very popular in India. They
are used as saris, bedcovers, bolsters and
cushion covers, tablecloths and mats,
napkins, scarves, stoles, door and window
screens, skirt materials, rumals, etc.
 Question 8 : How is Ikat done
in Andhra Pradesh ?
Answer : The oldest Ikat centre is at Chirala, in the state of
Andhra Pradesh. The earliest examples of Andhra Ikat are
probably the cotton telia rumals or chowkas. The term telia
(oiled) is derived from the oily texture retained by the cloth
because of the process of wetting and kneading the cotton yarns
in oil in preparation for dyeing. The field of these telia rumals is
simple checked or with geometric patterns in red, white and black
and is enclosed by a plain red border.
 Question 9 : Explain the topic .
Patola : Ikats from Gujarat

Answer : The most beautiful fabrics among the Indian resist

dyed textiles are the world famous Patola from Gujarat.
Patolu (singular) and Patola (plural) is a Gujarati word, which
may be connected with an expression for silk but may also go
back to the sense of colourful. The patola weavers belong to
Salvi Community. Patola are worn on festive occasions in
many parts of the country. In Gujarat, Patola has been
popular in wedding ceremonies.
 Question 10 : Explain the
method of tritik.

Answer : The folds or pleats are fixed by stitching

through them in simple running stitches and the
textile is pushed together on the thread. The ends of
the thread are knotted. Folds and the running
thread form the pattern. This process is referred to
by an Indonesian word, Tritik .
Thank
You