FABRIC SCIENCE (FS)

ASSIGNMENT 3

Topic: Description of various yarn testing machines and technical specifications,

end use and the measurement of their count of 10 samples of yarn.

Submitted To: Ms. Lipsa Mohapatra Submitted by- Nikita Ratish

Asst. Professor BFT/17/143

NIFT Bhubaneswar
 YARN
TESTING
EQUIPMENT
 1. WARP REEL

Working Principle-
A wrap reel or skein winder is a device for measuring yarn and making it into hanks of a
standard size. The reel is of a standard size and its revolutions are counted as the yarn is
wrapped around it. Typically, a set number of revolutions will be used so that the hank is of a
standard size — a skein or lea. For example, a skein of cotton would be 80 turns on a reel of
54 inches circumference, making 120 yards, while the standard length for wool worsted
would be 80 yards. 
Parts of the Machine-
The wrap reel may be hand or motor driven. It consists of a,
•Reel
•Yarn package
•Creel
•Yarn guide which has a small sideway traverse to separate the yarn, length
indicator warning bell.
Working Formula-
The count of yarn expresses fineness or coarseness. There are two ways of determining yarn
count.
Let,
N= Count of yarn/ yarn number,
W=weight of the sample,
w= the unit of the weight sample,
l= the unit of length of the system,
L= the length of the sample,
Then, In direct system, N=W × l
L
In indirect system, N= w × L
W×l
 2. BEESELEY BALANCE

Working Principle-
Beesley Balance is a laboratory testing machine which is used to measure the yarn count
directly in a 1 cm sq. sample material. The Beesley balance is specially designed to
measure the count of a small piece of fabrics or a short length of yarn. The testing device
calculates the result in Denier, Tex, Cotton Count, etc
Parts of the Machine-

The Beesley Balance consists of,

•a weighing scale which is designed on an aluminium shaft with two crystal bearing
•The aluminium beam comprises of stainless steel hooks on both sides to place the yarn
one by one on one end and to hand weight on another end.
•The entire assembly of Beesley balance is designed on a metal box with a transparent
sliding window to view the test sample easily
•2 calibrated riders are delivered with the device as standard accessories.
•Pillar
•Pivot
•Pointer
•Notch
•Beam
•Datum line
•Template
 
Working Formula-

Yarn Count (Ne) = Yarn length in Yards / 840

Yarn Weight in 1 Lb (Pound)
 3. TWIST TESTER

Working Principle-
Twist Tester is highly beneficial in checking twists in a Single Yarn. The strength of a yarn
and other properties of the fabric depend to a great extent on the amount of twist given
to it. Thus, accurate determination of this factor is of prime importance in assessing the
quality of any yarn. The amount of twist given to a yarn is usually determined by
untwisting a known length of yarn and finding the number of rotations of one of its ends
relative to the other, which remove the twists completely. 
Parts of the Machine-

•Weight
•Movable Jaws
•Rotating Jaws
•Counters denoted by ‘S’ and ‘Z’

Working Formula-

•The yarn is twisted in the tester until one yarn breaks.

• Number of turns required is n1.
• The test is repeated by twisting the yarn in the opposite direction.
•Number of turns required to break in the opposite direction is n2.
•Twist is given by (n1-n2)/2.
 4. QUADRANT BALANCE

Working Principle-
It is a kind of typical balance. It is a direct reading instrument. The count can be directly
measured from the quadrant balance. Count of small length of yards upto 40yds can be
measured from this device. The weight of the sample of fabric can also be measured.
Parts of the Machine-
•Quadrant scale attached to the pillar
•A cross beam
•Sample hook
•The Quadrant scale is divided into three scales namely, the top scale, the middle scale and
the third scale.
 5.USTER EVENNESS TESTER

Working Principle-
The instrument or M/C by which unevenness (U%) , co-efficient of variation of mass (CVm%),
yarn hairiness, imperfection index (IPI) and thick, thin place, neps etc of yarn, roving sliver can
be measured or calculated is called Uster Evenness Tester or Uster Tester – 5. Raw material as
well as spinning problem can be detected by the measurement of yarn unevenness which is
done by Uster evenness tester or Uster tester-5. 
The quality parameter is determined by a capacitive sensor. In this case the yarn, roving or sliver
is passed through the electric field of a measuring capacitor. Mass variation of the material
causes the disturbance of the electric field which are converted into electric signal. Which is
proportional to the mass variation of the material. The unevenness is recorded as a diagram. 
Parts of the Machine-

•Measuring head which consists of combs of 8 measuring capacitors of different sizes.

•Creel and Guides
•Traverse Rollers
•Control Switches
•Integrator
•Pen- Recorder
 6. TENSILE STREGTH TESTER

Working Principle-
Tensile strength tests are the most common tests and these are carried out using either a single
strand or a skein containing a definite number of strands as the test specimen.
The instruments used for determining the tensile strength are classified into three groups, based
on the principle of working. 
CRT - Constant Rate of Traverse
CRE - Constant Rate of Extension
CRL - Constant Rate of Loading
Parts of the Machine-

•Load frame
•Load cell 
•Cross head
•Extensometers are sometimes used
•Output device - A means of providing the test result is needed. Some older machines have
dial or digital displays and chart recorders. Many newer machines have a computer
interface for analysis and printing.
•Conditioning
•Test fixtures
DIFFERENT YARN
SAMPLES AND
THEIR
SPECIFICATIONS
 1.COTTON

Physical Properties-
•It is a single elongated cell. Under the microscope, it resembles a collapsed, spirally twisted
tube with a rough surface.
•The thin cell wall of the fiber has from 200 to 400 convolutions per inch.
• It burns and may flare up when lit. No melted bead is left by it. After burning, it continues
to glow. It gives out a smell like that of a burning paper. The smoke is gray or white. The ash is
fine and soft and can be easily crumbled.
•Length-Length of cotton fibre varies from 16mm to 52 mm depending upon the type of
cotton.
•Strength- Cotton fibre is fairly among natural fibres in relation to tenacity which is 3-
3.5g/dtex. Its tensile strength is between wool and silk fibre but disadvantage is low
extension at break which is 5-7%.
• Cotton fibre is fairly short, fine and creamy white colour.
•Cross-section of cotton fibre is some what ribbon like
.
Chemical Properties-

Burns or melts Burns only

Behaviour upto flame No effect
Behaviour in flame Burns effectively
Behavior removed from flame Burns, can glow
Shrinks from flame No
Odour Burning paper, leaves or wood
Residue Fine, feathery, grey ash
Other property After glow

EXPERIMENT OBSERVATION
 Oxidation Loses strength and turns
yellow
 Volatile organic acids No damage
 With Alkalies No effect
 With sulphuric acid At 38 degree temperature and
20 minutes cotton dissolves.
End Uses-
•Knitted into jersey that is used for cut-and-sew knits.
•Woven into a lightweight fabric like broadcloth, poplin, or oxford that is typically used for
collared shirts.
•Woven in a special “sateen” technique that gives the fabric a sheen. This is often applied
to fancier styles, like men’s dress pants or blazers, women’s dresses or skirts.
•Spun into yarn that is then knitted into sweaters, especially lightweight for summer.
•Blended with all myriad of other fibers (wool, silk, polyester, nylon, spandex, etc.) to
create fabrics with different feels, looks, and qualities, all with different end-uses.

Yarn Count-
Count of the Cotton yarn is measured in the English system (Ne), Metric count (Nm),
French count (Nf) and the Worsted count (Nw).
 2. LINEN

Physical Properties-
•Under the microscope, the hair like flax fiber shows several sided cylindrical filaments with
fine pointed ends.
•The fiber somewhat resembles a straight, smooth look.
•Linen takes longer to ignite.
•The fabric closest to the ash is very brittle.
•Linen is easily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle.
•Flax fibers vary in length from about 25 to 150 mm (1 to 6 in) and average 12-
16 micrometers in diameter. 
•Linen is among the strongest of the vegetable fibers, with 2 to 3 times the strength of
cotton.  It is a very durable, strong fabric, and one of the few that are stronger wet than dry.
•Densities of FLAX fibers are 1.45 making them nearly twice as light as glass fibers (2.6)
lighter than carbon (1.8).
•Moisture content of linen is 10.4.
Chemical Properties-
Burns or melts Burns only
Behavior upto flame No effect
Behavior in flame Burns fiercely
Behavior removed from flame Burns, can glow
Shrinks from flame No
Odour Burning paper, leaves or wood
Residue Fine, feathery, grey ash
Other property After glow

EXPERIMENT OBSERVATION
Reaction with hot dilute acid Gets damaged or weakened
and cold conc. Acid
Reaction to alkalies Highly resistant to it
Reaction with sodium Gets highly weakened
hypochlorite bleaches
Reaction to light Highly detoriated
Solution to fuchsia When dissolved turns rose
colored
Solution of copper oxide Will exhibit blue coloring
End Uses-
•Linen has been used as a tablecloth in households for several years now. It is preferred
over cotton or other fabrics as it proves to be more durable.
•Linen clothing is a popular choice, especially in warm climate countries. Its construction is
lightweight and it allows for air to pass through, which gives the user a cooling effect in hot
weather. Also, as it is easily able to absorb moisture.
•Linen has a very nice texture which allows for it to be used in decorating of homes.

Yarn Count-
Linen Yarn Count Is done using the Indirect System by The English Cotton System (Ne).
 3. SILK

Physical Properties-
•Silk is composed of two filaments, has elliptical shape under the microscope. The two fine
and lustrous filaments are shown clearly looking like transparent rods with triangular
shape.
•It is a protein fibre and usually burns readily, not necessarily with a steady flame, and
smells like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily
extinguished as cotton or linen.
•Silk is a highly absorbent fibre, which readily becomes impregnated with water. Water,
however, does not permanently affect silk fibre. Silk strength decreases about 20 percent
when wet and regains its original strength after drying. The fibre expands but does not
dissolve when steeped in warm water.
•Auto sorter is used to calculate the size and length of silk. Serimeter is used to determine
the strength of silk
 
Chemical Properties-
Burns or melts Burns only
Behavior upto flame No effect
Behavior in flame Burns slowly
Behavior removed from flame Tends to go out
Shrinks from flame Yes
Odour Smells more like charred or
burning meat
Residue Black, hollow, irregular bead
which crushes easily to a gritty,
black powder.
Other property Self extinguishing

EXPERIMENT OBSERVATION
Solvent test Silk will dissolve in sodium
hypochlorite
Stain test Silk will show black color
End Uses-
•Clothes made of silk fiber are often expensive and have a high perceived value. When silk
fiber is twisted in the weaving process, different silk fabrics are created, such as crepe,
shantung and satin.
•Silk fabrics add elegance and beauty to the decor of most rooms. Silk chiffon makes flowing
curtains and ruffles for pillows and comforters.
•Woven silk fibers are used for the construction of parachutes and bicycle tires. 
•Silk is often blended with other fabrics. Synthetics give silk more stability, as well as sun and
water spotting resistance.

Yarn Count-
The count of the Silk Yarn is done by the Direct system i.e. the unit of measurement is
Denier (den).
 4. JUTE

Physical Properties-
•Mainly jute fibres are composed of cellulose, hemi cellulose and lignin. It is harder than
other fibres due to the presence of lignin. Polygonal shaped cross-section and many
ultimate cell of longitudinal view identified jute fiber.
•Does not melt, burns easily, smell like paper burning because paper is also a cellulosic
material.
•Stiff and a harsh hand to human skin, feels bad against skin
•Toughness of jute is low on account of its low extensibility. Average Toughness Index –
0.02
•Density – 1.47gm/cc
•Average Fineness – 20 denier (i.e., weight in gm of 9000 meters of filament)
•Hygroscopicity (average regain at 65 per cent relative humidity) – 13 per cent and thus is
more wettable than other fibres.
Chemical Properties-

Burns or melts Burns only

Behavior upto flame No effect
Behavior in flame Burns fiercely
Behavior removed from flame Burns, can glow
Shrinks from flame No
Odour Burning paper, leaves or wood
Residue Fine, feathery, grey ash
Other property After glow

EXPERIMENT OBSERVATION
Solvent test There is no solvent test for
identifying jute
Stain test With a drop of zinc chlor-
iodo reagent jute stains
brown.
End Uses-
•Packaging - bags, sacks, wrapping material i.e. cotton packs and wool packs.
•Geotextiles - landfill covering, embankment reinforcement.
•Protection of rooting plants.
•Hessian cloths of various types.
•Braids and webbing.
•Fine and coarse yarns.
•Cable filler.
•Industrial and domestic twine.
•Specialist pulp and paper.
•Recently being used as a filler with Abaca and Sisal.

Yarn Count-
Jute Count can be calculated by two ways. One is the direct system of measurement i.e.
the Tex measurement and the other where 300 yards= 1 Lea.
 5.HEMP

Physical Properties-
•Smooth and cylindrical with cross marking nodes.
•It has no lengthwise striations.
•It has broad lumen.
•Ignites and burns quickly, may flare, leaves a glowing ember after flame is extinguished.
Smoke is white or light colored and smells like burnt paper or leaves.
•Length is 4 to 6.5% feet.
•Hemp is a very strong fibre and has a very high tensile strength.
•Standard moisture regain capacity is 12% which is more than cotton and linen.
•Hemp fibres stress easily.
Chemical Properties-

Behaviour upto flame No effect

Behaviour in flame Burns fiercely

Behavior removed from flame Burns, can glow

Shrinks from flame No
Odour Burning paper, leaves or wood
Residue Fine, feathery, grey ash
Other property After glow

EXPERIMENT OBSERVATION
Solvent test There is no solvent test
for identifying hemp.
Stain test With a drop of zinc chlor-
iodo reagent hemp stains
violet.
End Uses-
•Hemp is used to make a variety of commercial and industrial products including rope,
clothes, food, paper, textiles, plastics, insulation and bio fuel.
•The bast fibers can be used to make textiles that are 100% hemp, but they are commonly
blended with other organic fibers such as flax, cotton or silk, to make woven fabrics for
apparel and furnishings.
•When oxidized (often erroneously referred to as "drying"), hemp oil from the seeds
becomes solid and can be used in the manufacture of oil-based paints, in creams as a
moisturizing agent, for cooking, and in plastics.
•Hemps seeds are also used as bird feed.

Yarn Count-
The Hemp Yarn is counted in the Direct system using the Denier and the Tex units.
 6.WOOL

Physical Properties-
•Wool fibre has irregular ,roughly ,cylindrical ,multi-cellular structure with tapered ends.
•Under a microscope ,three basic layers are shown like epidermis, cortex and medulla.
•Medulla is seen only in coarse and medium wool fibres and that too under a highly powerful
microscope.
•Length: Length of wool fibre varies from 2 inch to twelve inch depending on type of fibre
and the interval length of time of collection.
•Fineness: Generally, longer the fibre coarser the fibre. Here, fineness varies from 3-15 dtex
that is coarser than cotton fibre.
•Cross sectional shape: It is roughly circular or elliptical in cross section. Some fibres are solid
and some fibres have small intermittent holes which are called Kemp fibres.
•Strength and extension: Wool is weak fibre. Its tenacity varies from 1 to 15 g/dtex but very
high extension at break which is 35%.
Behaviour upto flame No effect
Behaviour in flame Burns slowly
Behavior removed from flame Tends to go out
Shrinks from flame Yes
Odour Very very strong smell of
burning hair
Residue Black, hollow, irregular bead
which crushes easily into a
gritty, black powder
Other property Self extinguishing

Experiment Observation
With NaOH Wool gets completely
dissolved
Dry wool +dry benzene Grease is obtained
5% soda lye solution+wool Wool fibres gets finished or
terminated
End Uses-
•In addition to clothing, wool has been used for blankets, horse rugs, saddle cloths,
carpeting, insulation and upholstery.
•Wool felt covers piano hammers, and it is used to absorb odours and noise in heavy
machinery and stereo speakers. 
• Some modern cloth diapers use felted wool fabric for covers, and there are several modern
commercial knitting patterns for wool diaper covers.
•Merino wool has been used in baby sleep products such as swaddle baby wrap blankets
and infant sleeping bags.
•As an animal protein, wool can be used as a soil fertilizer, being a slow-release source of
nitrogen.

Yarn Count-
Wool Yarn is counted using the Indirect System i.e. The English Cotton Count.
 7. NYLON

Physical Properties-
The basic microscopic appearance is generally fine, round, smooth and translucent.
 It is also produced in multilobal cross-sectional types. 
However, generally it appears fine, round, smooth and translucent.
Sometimes it has shiny appearance.
If it looks dull, it will also be dotted under the microscope.

Chemical Properties-
•Nylon does not dissolve in acetone.
•If nylon contains wool it will get immersed in a boiling solution of sodium hydroxide.
•Nylon’s insolubility in boiling sodium hydroxide makes it easily distinguishable from most
other fibers.
Burning Properties-
Behavior upto flame Shrink away
Behavior in flame Melts, drips
Behavior removed from Tends to go out
flame
Shrinks from flame Yes
Odor Celery
Residue Hard, cream colored
bead.

Yarn Count-
The Wool Yarn is measured in the Direct System i.e. the Tex measurement. Usually
denoted by dtex.
End Uses-
High tenacity nylons are used for parachute fabrics, cords and ropes. Having good
dimensional stability, are used for ladies gloves, ladies hose, under wear, swimming wear,
stocking, hosiery fabric etc.
It is used for home furnishing, in carpets, in upholstery and in ropes and cords
In finishing nets, tire cords, filtering cloths, sewing threads, tow ropes are made of Nylon. It
is used in manufacturing of belts of various machines (Flat belt, V-belts).
 8. POLYESTER

Physical Properties-
Polyester fibers are smooth and straight and the cross-section is round. The general
characteristics maybe altered to achieve certain other characteristics.
Is a polymer produced from coal, air, water, and petroleum products.
It burns quickly and shrinks away from flame, may also flare up.
It leaves hard, dark, and round beads. After the flame, it burns slowly and is not always self-
extinguishing.
It has a slightly sweet chemical odor. It leaves no ash but its black smoke and fume are
hazardous.
Generally, polyester fiber is smooth, straight.
It looks round cross sectionally. However, with various finishing processes
Its appearance changes in context of texture and luster.
Chemical Properties-

Behavior upto flame Starts heating up

Behaviour in flame Burns and melts
Behavior removed from flame Burns
Shrinks from flame yes
Odour Sweet chemical
Residue Hard, cream colored bead

•Polyester is soluble in hot metacresol.

•It is not soluble in acetone.
•It is not soluble in concentrated formic acid.

EXPERIMENTS OBSERVATIONS
Effect of acids Good resistance to acids
on cold conditions
Effect of bases Good resistance to bases
on cold conditions
Effect of bleaching Bleaching does not affect
polyester
Effect of organic solvent Organic solvents does
not affect polyester
End Uses-
•Polyester is often used in outerwear because of its high tenacity and durability. 
•Polyester is often used in pants, shirts, suits, and bed sheets either by itself or as a blend,
because of its wrinkle-resistant property and its ability to retain its shape.
•Polyester also has industrial uses as well, such as carpets, filters, synthetic artery
replacements, ropes, and films. 
•Many jackets and quilted garments are made of polyester.

Yarn Count-
The Polyester Yarn is counted in the Direct System i.e. The Denier or Tex measurement
units are used.
 9. ACETATE

Physical Properties-
The cross sectional view has a bulbous or multilobal appearance with indentations. 
These indentations appear as occasional markings.
It is a protein fiber which burns quickly and can flare even after flame is removed. The bead is
hard, brittle, and can't be crushed. It melts into very hot bead and drips very dangerously. No
ash is left by it and the smell is like hot vinegar or burning pepper. It gives out black smoke and
the fume is hazardous.
Acetate filament: It is in broken strands.
Fineness: The diameter of the strand ranges from 1.5 to 4.1 deniers for filaments and 1.5 to 20
deniers for staple fibres.
Appearance and Color: The luster and color may be as desired. Bright luster may be received by
lesser twist.
Density: The density ranges from 1.25 to 1.33 gm per cc.
 
Chemical Properties-
Burn or melts Burn and melts
Shrinks from flame Yes
Odour Combination of burning paper
and vinegar
Residue Dark, hard, solid bead

Method Experiment Observation

Stain method Add acetic acid Changes to light
green
Dil.. carbonate of Changes to orange
soda
Solvent method Acetone Dissolves

•Effect of alkalis: It is stable to water even at boil and can withstand soap solutions and
alkalis at normal temperature.
•Effect of acids: It is unaffected by thin solution but is attacked by strong acids. The
degradation of molecules occurs and the chain breaks.
•Effect of oxidizing agents: Mild oxidizing agents may be utilized i.e. chlorine is old and mild
peroxide.
•Effect of organisms: It is resistant to attack by bacteria and mildew but it is attacked by
moth which makes holes in fabric.
End Uses-
•Acetate fibers are frequently used for women's dresses and exhibits their beauty in the
form of women's formal wear, suits, coats or knitwear.
•Acetate (staple tow) is used for almost all cigarette filters.
•Triacetate fibers are fibers to which more acetic acid is combined than to acetate fibers.
•Blankets, Bedclothes, Fabrics for Curtains, Umbrellas, etc.

Yarn Count-
The acetate yarn is measured in the Direct system. The measuring unit is Deniers (den).
 10. ACRYLIC

Physical Properties-
•ACRILAN ACRYLIC: It has a bean-shaped cross section, its longitudinal appearance is straight
and smooth.
•ORLON ACRYLIC: It has a flat, nut-shaped cross section.
•CRESLAN ACRYLIC: It has an almost round cross section.
•MOD ACRYLICS: it is of two types verelmodacrylic and SEF modacrylic.
•Made from natural gas and petroleum, they flare up at match-touch, shrink from flame, burn
rapidly with hot sputtering flame and drip dangerously. Beads are hard, dark, and with irregular
shapes.. When burning, they give out strong acrid, fishy odor. Although no ash is left but their
black smoke and fume are hazardous.
•Tenacity: 2 – 4.2 gm/den.
•Density: 1.16 gm/c.c.
•Elongation at break: 20 to 55%
•Moisture Regain (MR%): 1 – 2.5%
•Melting point: 2300C.
Chemical Properties-
Behavior upto flame Shrinks away
Behavior in flame Burns, melts
Behavior removed from Burns, melts
flame
Shrinks from flame Yes
Odour Broiled fish or acrid
Residue Hard, black bead, irregular
shape
Other property Sputters when burning

Stain test
Solvent test Ammonium Dissolves
thiocyanate
End uses-
• include socks, hats, gloves, scarves, sweaters, home furnishing fabrics, and awnings.
•Acrylic can also be used to make fake fur and to make many different knitted clothes.
•Apparel: Sweaters, socks, fleece wear, circular knit apparel, sportswear and children's wear.
• Household Textiles: Carpet, blankets, area rugs, upholstery, pile fabrics. 
•Outdoor end uses: Car tops, boat covers, awnings, outdoor furniture.
•Industrial end uses: Filtration materials, reinforcement materials in construction, car
batteries.

Yarn Count-
It is measured in the Direct System i.e. The Denier and the Tex measurement.
THANK
YOU