Bojana VONCINA

• Associate Professor at
• Department of Textile Materials and
Design, University of Maribor, Maribor,
Slovenia
Topic

CosmetoTextiles

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SLOVENIA

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MARIBOR

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 COSMETOTEXTILES

Bojana VONCINA

Department of Textile Materials and Design,

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University of Maribor, Maribor, Slovenia

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Cosmetotextile is a textile article containing
a substance or a preparation that is
released over time on different superficial
parts of the human body, notably on skin,
and claiming special properties such as
cleaning, perfuming, changing appearance,
protecting, keeping in good condition or
correcting of body odors.

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 Encapsulation

Molecular
Microencapsulation
encapsulation

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 Microencapsulation

Microencapsulation is described
as a process of enclosing micron-
size particles of solids or droplets
of liquids or gasses in an inert
shell, which in turns isolates and
protects then from the external
environment.

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 The properties of microcapsules had to be adapted
to the requirements of textile processing methods
and uses of final products:

– sizes,
– shapes,
– wall materials (urea-formaldehyde or melamine-
aldehyde resins, cellulose derivatives),
– way of application (coating, covalent bonding),
– active substance release mechanisms.
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Mechanisms by which the core
material is released:
Rupture of the capsule wall,
– Mechanical rupture of the wall
– Dissolution of the wall
– Melting of the wall (thermal or
UV/Vis radiation)
– Biodegradation
– Enzymatic degradation
Diffusion through the wall
– Slow release
– Controlled release
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 Grafting of Ethylcellulose
Microcapsules onto Cotton Fibres
[1,2]

Rosemary oil was encapsulated in

ethylcellulose (EC) microcapsules using
phase separation method [3]. Prepared
capsules were analysed by SEM and
Confocal Laser Fluorescence Microscopy.

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[1] Babtsov V, Shapiro Y., Kvitnitsky E., US Patent 6,932,984, 2005
[2] Voncina B, et al, Carbohydrate Polymers, in press ICTC
• Regular spherical shape
• The yield of the process was about
75%.
• Microcapsules in the 10-90 μm size
range were obtained (depends on
stirring speed)

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[3] Badulescu R, et al, MEDTEX07, Bolton, UK ICTC
• The oil content of the dried
microcapsules was 20-30%.
• The average “empty space” in
capsule is 40%

Confocal laser fluorescence microscope 12

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During the thermofixation at 120°C, simultaneously three
reactions of esterification can occur: anchoring or binding
ethylcellulose to hydroxyl groups of cellulose, crosslinking of
cellulose and crosslinking of ethyl cellulose.
O COOH O
Cell O C CH2 CH CH CH2 C O EC
H2C COOH
COOH
Cell, EC
HC COOH O COOH O
HC COOH Cell O C CH2 CH CH CH2 C O Cell
Catalyst, H
H2C COOH COOH
O COOH O
EC O C CH2 CH CH CH2 C O EC
COOH

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 Molecular encapsulation
Involves all intermolecular interactions where covalent
bonds are not established between the interacting
species - SUPRAMOLECULAR CHEMISTRY [7]

The majority of these interactions are of the

host-guest type.

Among all potential hosts, the

cyclodextrins (CD) are to be the most
important ones

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[4] Szejtli J., Chem Rev 1998, 98, 1743-1753 ICTC
Structure and dimensions of
cyclodextrins

-cyclodextrin -cyclodextrin -cyclodextrin

0.5 nm 0.65 nm 0.85 nm

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Complexation of odour molecules β-CD. 16
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Modification of PET with -cyclodextrin
• Gain on mass

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SHPI
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Gain of mass [%]

Treated samples
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1x washed
5x washed
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10x washed
4

0
100/10 110/10 115/10A 115/10B 120/10 125/10 160/10
Treatement conditions: T [°C] / t [min]

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Measurement of fabrics handle

Sample KOSHI* *SHARI FUKURAMI* HARI* T.H.V.**

Untreated 8.08 8.98 3.43 12.23 2.72
115C/10min 5.42 6.86 6.07 8.11 2.79
b-CD/BTCA/CA, 110C/10min 6.93 8.80 4.39 10.93 2.91!
b-CD/BTCA/CA, 115C/10min 7.00 8.94 4.47 10.90 2.89!
b-CD/BTCA/CA, 125C/10min 9.09 7.13 5.81 11.19 1.65
b-CD/BTCA/SHPI, 160C/10min 10.40 7.92 4.32 12.90 1.62
* 10 strong, 1 week
** 5 excellent, 1 poor

Adsorption of textile using ammonia gas (JIS

K0804)
  treated untreated
Initial conc. (ammonia) 125ppm 125ppm

One hour conc. (ammonia) 0ppm 77ppm

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Odor intensity measurements

Odour intensity of fabrics sprayed with parfume

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3,5
3
Smell intensity

2,5
CD,spray
2
BLIND, spray
1,5
1
0,5
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
W eeks

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Nano-assembly of -CD crosslinked with BTCA
COOH O
O
HOOC O O
O
O COOH
O COOH
O O
O
O
COOH HOOC
O
COOH
O
O
O O
HOOC COOH O
COOH
O O O
O O O
O
HOOC O
O COOH O
O O
HOOC
HOOC O
O HOOC
O COOH
COOH
O O COOH
COOH
O O O
HOOC
O O
O
O HOOC O

COOH
COOH O
COOH O
O O O O
COOH O O
O
O O O COOH
O COOH
HOOC
O

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Acknowledgement
This research work has been supported financially
by:
• The Taiwan Textile Research Institute, Taipei;
• The Marie Curie Transfer of Knowledge Project of
the EC 6FP under the contract number MTKD-CT
2005-029540.

I would like to thank Dr. Oliver Kreft from the Max

Planck Institute of Colloids and Interfaces Potsdam,
for measurements and his advices regarding the
Confocal Laser Fluorescence Microscopy.
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Thank you for your
attention

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