Quality Control In Garments Industry

 In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the

initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished
garment.
 For textile and apparel industry, product quality is calculated in
terms of quality and standard of-
o Fibers,
o Yarns,
o Fabric construction,
o Color fastness,
o Surface designs and
o The final finished garment products. However quality expectations for
export are related to the type of customer segments and the retail outlets.
Quality control for textile and apparel
 Quality for textile and apparel:

• Certain quality related problems, often seen in

garment manufacturing like sewing, color, sizing, or
garment defects should never be over looked.
• These defects are discussed below -
 Sewing defects
• Open seams,
• wrong stitching techniques,
• non- matching threads,
• missing stitches,
• improper creasing of the garment,
• improper thread tension etc. are some of the sewing
defects which can affect the garment quality
adversely.
 Color defects

Color defects that could occur are difference of the color of

final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories used
are of wrong color combination and mismatching of dye
amongst the pieces.

• Variation of color between the sample and the final garment,

• Wrong color combinations and mismatching dyes
should always be avoided.
 Size defects
• Wrong gradation of sizes,
• difference in measurement of various parts of a
garment like sleeves of XL size for body of L size
garment can deteriorate the garments beyond repair.
 Garment defects
During manufacturing process defects could occur like faulty zippers,
irregular hemming, loose buttons, raw edges, improper button holes,
uneven parts, inappropriate trimming, and difference in fabric colors.
Some of the remarkable defects are as below-
• Broken or defective buttons, snaps, stitches, different shades within
the same garment,
• Dropped stitches,
• Exposed notches,
• Fabric defects, holes,
• Faulty zippers,
• Loose or hanging sewing threads,
• Misaligned buttons and holes, missing buttons,
• Needle cuts,
 Garment defects
• Pulled or loose yarn,
• stains,
• unfinished buttonhole,
• short zippers,
• inappropriate trimmings etc. all can lead to the end
of a brand name even before its establishment.
Methods of quality control:

Basically two methods are used for garments quality control –

i) Testing
ii) Inspection.

Maximum garments manufacturers apply inspection method

due to high cost of testing equipment.
 Inspection
Inspection:
Inspection may be as the visual
examination indefined
relation to some standards.

Objective:
The main objectives of inspection are –
i. Detection of defects.
ii. Correcting the defects or defective garments.
• To inspect garments an integral method
named ‘Inspection Loop’ is used given below –

Inspection

Correction of Detection of
the defects defects

Determination Inform defects

of to
causes of appropriate
defects personnel
 Steps of inspection in garments industry:

1. Piece goods quality control

2. Cutting quality control
3. In process quality control (Sewing)
4. Washing section
5. Quality control of finishing sections
6. Testing (Lab test)
 Piece goods quality control
On receipt of fabrics in the ware house, at least 10% are
inspection as per “4 Points” system/10 Points system/2.5 Point
system/6.0 Point system. The most commonly used 4 Points
system as per below -
Size of the defects Penalty point
3 Inches or less 1 Point
Over 3, under 6 Inches 2 Point
Over 6, under 9 Inches 3 Point
Over 9 Inches 4 Point
Holes & openings (1inch or less) 2 Point
Holes & openings (more than 1inch) 4 Point
A maximum of 4 points are changed in one linear
yard.
 Point Calculation
For an individual roll:
• Points per 100 square yards = total points for the roll x 3600/
inspected yards x cuttable fabric width (inch)
• Points per 100 square meters = total points for the roll x
100,000/ inspected meters x cuttable fabric width (MM)
For a shipment:
• Total shipment points per 100 sq. Yards = total average points
per linear yard x 3600/ shipment inspected yards x cuttable
fabric width (inch)
• Total shipment points per 100 sq. Meters = total average points
per linear meter x 10,000/ shipment inspected meters x
cuttable fabric width (MM)
 Point Calculation
• In general, acceptable level of ‘points per 100 linear yards’ or
‘points per 100 square yards’ are different for different fabric
types. For example:

• For Cotton Twill/Denim: 28 points per 100 square yards (23

points per 100 square meters) for individual fabric roll.

• For All synthetic fabrics: 20 point per 100 square yards (16
points per 100 square meters) for individual fabric roll.
 Cutting Quality Control
In cutting section quality is insure in two stages.
a) Spreading quality control: Following points are
checked
during spreading.
I. Table marking.
II. Ends
III. Tension
IV. Leaning
V. Narrow Goods
VI. Counts
VII.Ply height
VIII.Remnants
IX. Fabric flaws
X. Market placing
 Cutting Quality Control
b)After cutting quality control: After each cutting blocks
and bundles are checks on the following points.

I. Mis-cut
II. Ragged cutting
III. Pattern checks
IV. Matching Plies
V. Notches
In process quality control
(Sewing)
During the swing “In process quality control” is done by the line
QC’s through 7 pcs inspection system. For critical operations
100% process inspection are carried out. The following
parameters are also checked in sewing process –
a) Machine check.
b) Tension.
c) SPI checks
d) Needle check.
e) Cleanness.
d) Table inspection.
f) Inspection before wash.
 Washing section
a) Garments handling
b) Wash standard.
c) After wash thoroughly
inspection.
 Quality control of finishing sections
Following inspection/audit is done to attain AQL (1.5/2.5/4.0etc).
a)Process inspection: Garments are checked process wise in the
finishing section to identify defects and pass only the passed
garments.
b)Two hourly audit: Every after two-hours audit is done on
finishing lot to attain AQL the required AQL.
c)Days final audit: At the end of the day accumulated lot of
finished garments are statistically audited to attain required AQL.
d)Lot final audit: On completion of packing of one complete lot
of garment, QA manager conduct statistical audit based on
required AQL garments. Garments are offered for final inspection
by buyer /clients for shipment only when these are through in
this
2a/8u/
 Quality control of finishing sections
The following parameters are also checked in finishing process –
a) After wash garments must be keep in the box / table covering.
b) Thread sucking.
c) Iron inspection.
d) Measurements inspection.
e) Poly inspection of top of garments.
f) Inspection before cartoning.
 Testing (Lab test)
a) Shrinkage test
b) Color fastness. test
c) Azo-free test.
 AQL (Acceptable Quality
Level )

A certain proportion of defectives will always

occur in any manufacturing process. If the
percentage does not exceed a certain limit, it will
be economical to allow the defective to go
through instead of screening the entire lot. This
limit is called the "Acceptable Quality Level" (
AQL )
 AQL (Acceptable Quality Level )

• In practice, three types of defects are

distinguished. For most goods, the
consumer
limits are:
– 0% for critical defects (totally unacceptable: a
user might get harmed, or regulations are not
respected).
– 2.5% for major defects (these products would usually
not be considered acceptable by the end user).
– 4.0% for minor defects (there is some departure from
specifications, but most users would not mind it).
 Statistical Process Control:
Definition
 SPC stands for statistical process control. Statistical process
control is a scientific visual method used to monitor,
control and improve processes by eliminating special
cause variation from manufacturing, service and financial
processes. SPC is a key continuous improvement tool.

 Is a collection of tools that can result in process stability

and variance reduction (process improvement) when used
together.

 Its also called statistical quality control (SQC).

 Application of SPC

 The application of SPC involves three

main phases of activity:
1. Understanding the process and the specification
limits.
2. Eliminating assignable (special) sources of
variation, so that the process is stable.
3. Monitoring the ongoing production process,
assisted by the use of control charts, to detect
significant changes of mean or variation.
 Limitations
• SPC is applied to reduce or eliminate process waste.
This, in turn, eliminates the need for the process step
of post-manufacture inspection.
• The success of SPC relies not only on the skill with
which it is applied, but also on how suitable or
amenable the process is to SPC.
• In some cases, it may be difficult to judge when the
application of SPC is appropriate.
 Seven Management & Planning Tools

• In 1976, the Union of Japanese Scientists and Engineers

(JUSE) saw the need for tools to promote innovation,
communicate information and successfully plan major
projects.
• A team researched and developed the seven new quality
control tools, often called the seven management and
planning tools, or simply the seven management tools.
 What are the New Seven Q.C. Tools

 Affinity Diagrams

 Relations Diagrams

 Tree Diagrams

 Matrix Diagrams

 Arrow Diagrams
 Process Decision Program Charts
 Matrix Data Analysis
 Elementary/Basic SPC Tools
• Quality management is now extremely important for all
organizations, especially for the textile and apparel industry
as it struggles with competition from less developed
countries that offer much cheaper products.
• Tools for quality management can help companies in this
industry to reduce costs, realize zero defects and thus
achieve better results.
• Furthermore, application of the quality tools
the
companies to identify
help the causes of the problems and
to manage that problems.
 Elementary SPC Tools / Seven Quality Tools

• The Seven Tools

– Histograms,
– Pareto Charts,
– Cause and Effect Diagrams,
– Run Charts,
– Scatter Diagrams,
– Flow Charts,
– Control Charts
 Histograms
Histogram Defined
A histogram is a bar graph that shows frequency data.
Histograms provide the easiest way to evaluate
the distribution of data.
It looks very much like bar chart.
The data are represented as a series of rectangles.
The width of a rectangle is the class interval and the area
represents the class frequency.

2/8/2016
 Histograms
Purpose:
To determine the spread or variation of a
set of data points in a graphical form

How is it done?:
• Collect data, 50-100 data point
• Determine the range of the data
• Calculate the size of the class interval
• Divide data points into
classes Determine the class Stable process, exhibiting bell
shape
boundary
• Count # of data points in each
class
• Draw the histogram
 Pareto Charts
Pareto Chart Defined
A pareto chart is a cumulative bar graph with longest bars
on left and shortest to the right.
The longest bar represents the most vital cause.
Pareto charts are used to identify and prioritize problems to
be solved.
 They are actually histograms aided by the
80/20 rule
adapted by Joseph Juran.
• Remember the 80/20 rule states that approximately 80%
of the problems are created by approximately 20% of the
causes.

Lecture by Md. Syduzzaman-

BUTex
 Pareto Charts
Purpose:
Prioritize problems.

How is it done?
• Create a preliminary list
of problem classifications.
• Tally the occurrences
in each problem
classification.
• Arrange each classification
in order from highest to
lowest
• Construct the bar chart
 Cause and Effect Diagrams

• Cause and Effect Diagram Defined

– The cause and effect diagram is also
called the
Ishikawa diagram or the fishbone diagram.
– It is a tool for discovering all the possible causes for
a particular effect.
– The major purpose of this diagram is to act as a first
step in problem solving by creating a list of possible
causes.
Machine Man

Environment
Method Material
 Fishbone Diagram

Purpose: Graphical representation

of the trail leading to the root cause
of a problem

How is it done?
• Decide which quality characteristic,
outcome or effect you want to
examine (may use Pareto chart)
• Backbone –draw straight line
• Ribs – categories/primary causes
• Medium size bones –secondary
causes
• Small bones – root causes
Fishbone diagram analysis

Absent receiving Working system of

party operators

Absent Too many phone calls

Out of office Lunchtime

Not at desk Absent

Makes
custome
Not giving receiving r wait
Does not
party’s coordinates Lengthy talk understand
Does not know customer
Complaining organization well

Leaving a Takes too much time

message to explain

Customer Operator
 Scatter Diagrams

• Scatter Diagrams Defined

– Scatter Diagrams are used to study and identify the
possible relationship between the changes observed
in two different sets of variables.
 Scatter Diagrams
Purpose:
To identify the correlations that might
exist between a quality characteristic
and a factor that might be driving it.
• A scatter diagram shows the correlation
between two variables in a process.
– These variables could be a Critical
To Quality (CTQ) characteristic.

• Dots representing data points are

scattered on the diagram.
– The extent to which the dots cluster
together in a line across the diagram
shows the strength with which the
two factors are related.
 Scatter Diagrams
How is it done?:
• Decide which paired factors you want to examine. Both factors
must be measurable on some incremental linear scale.
• Collect 30 to 100 paired data points.
• Find the highest and lowest value for both variables.
• Draw the vertical (y) and horizontal (x) axes of a graph.
• Plot the data
• Title the diagram
The shape that the cluster of dots takes will tell you something about the
relationship between the two variables that you tested.
 Scatter Diagrams
• The variables are
correlated, when one
changes the other
probably also
changes.
• Dots that look like they
are trying to form a line,
are strongly correlated.
 Flow Charts

• Flow Charts Defined

– A flow chart is a pictorial representation showing all of
the steps of a process.
 Flow Charts
Purpose:
Visual illustration of the sequence of operations required to
complete a task
 Schematic drawing of the process to measure or improve.
 Starting point for process improvement
 Potential weakness in the process are made visual.
 Picture of process as it should be.
Toolbox
How is it done?
 Write the process step inside
each symbol
 Connect the Symbols with
arrows showing the direction
of flow
 Run Charts

• Run Charts Defined

– Run charts are used to analyze processes according
to time or order.
Performance

Time
 Control Charts

• Control Charts Defined

– Control charts are used to determine whether
a process will produce a product or service
with consistent measurable properties.