VEGETABLE
VEGETABLE
Group Assignment
Name ID No
1,RedietAmare................................................RU5408/13
2,Meseret Minale............................................RU4944/13
3,Mihret Dube.................................................RU4955/13
4,Misgana Biratu............................................RU5397/13
5,Habtamu Yizengaw.....................................RU6012/13
6,Ferid Kedir..................................................RU1230/12
SUBMITTED TO : Instructor Tolla ,,
SUMMATION DATE: 22/05/15 EC
BULE HORA ETHIOPIA
TOMATO
Introduction
Tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum) belongs to the genus
Lycopersicon under Solanaceae family. Tomato is a herbaceous
sprawling plant growing to 1-3 m in height with weak woody
stem. The flowers are yellow in colour and the fruits of cultivated
varieties vary in size from cherry tomatoes, about 1–2 cm in size
to beefsteak tomatoes, about 10 cm or more in diameter. Most
cultivars produce red fruits when ripe. Tomato is a native to
Peruvian and Mexican region. Though there are no definite
records of when and how it came to India , the Portuguese
perhaps introduced it to India. Tomato is one of the most
important "protective foods" because of its special nutritive
value. It is one of the most versatile vegetable with wide usage
in Indian culinary tradition. Tomatoes are used for soup, salad,
pickles, ketchup, puree, sauces and in many other ways It is
also used as a salad vegetable. Tomato has very few
competitors in the value addition chain of processing.
Origin of Tomatoes
Tomatoes are native to South America, in fact, several species
are still found growing wild in the Andes. Brought to Mexico,
tomatoes were domesticated and cultivated there by 500 BC.
It is thought that the first cultivated tomato was small and
yellow.Columbus and/or Cortez brought tomatoes to Europe
and the Spanish explorers took them throughout the world.The
tomato became popular in Spain by the early 17th century,
where it thrived in the Mediterranean climate and became a
staple food.When first introduced in England at the end of the
16th Century, it was thought to be poisonous.(The tomato
belongs to the nightshade family—some plants in this family
are poisonous.)Finally, by the mid-18th century, the tomato had
gained acceptance and was widely eaten in England and the
North American colonies.
The Western Hemisphere is not only the origin of corn,
potatoes, and tomatoes, but also squash and pumpkins.
Carrots, probably purple at first, were from Afghanistan.
Beans are thought to have been found in both the Western
Hemisphere and the Mid-East. Onions have been cultivated in
Asia for thousands of years. Wild onions were used by the
Native Americans. Broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage didn’t
occur in nature at all, but were bred from kale.
So, when you plant your vegetable garden next spring, think
about where those seeds came from and the history that has
gone into getting them to you.
Distribution of tomato
The natural geographic distribution or centre of origin of
Solanum lycopersicum,(S. section Lycopersicon) has been
localised in the narrow band between the Andes mountain
ranges and the Pacific coast of western South America (WWF
and IUCN, 1997).
This extends from southern Ecuador to northern Chile, including
the Galapagos Islands (Peralta, Spooner and Knapp, 2008;
Nuez et al., 1996; Jenkins, 1948). This is based on the
geographic distribution of the native wild ancestors of the genus
between coordinates 0º-20º S and 64º-81º W where they grow
spontaneously and sympatrically (Taylor, 1986). 2. TOMATO
(SOLANUM LYCOPERSICUM) – 75 SAFETY ASSESSMENT
OF TRANSGENIC ORGANISMS IN THE ENVIRONMENT:
OECD CONSENSUS DOCUMENTS, VOLUME 7 © OECD
2017 Based on research from the Tomato Genome Consortium
2012, the three wild species most closely related to cultivated
tomato include the red-fruited species S. pimpinellifolium and
the orange-fruited species found on the Galapagos Islands, S.
galapagense and S. cheesmaniae (Menda, Strickler and
Mueller, 2013). Mexico is presumed to be the most probable
region of domestication, with Peru as the centre of diversity for
wild relatives (Larry and Joanne, 2007).
Solanum lycopersicum cerasiforme is thought to be the
ancestor of cultivated tomato, based on its wide presence in
Central America and the presence of a shorter style length in
the flower (Cox, 2000).
Botanical description
Tomato plants are vines, initially decumbent, typically growing
180 cm (6 ft) or more above the ground if supported, although
erect bush varieties have been bred, generally 100 cm (3 ft
3 in) tall or shorter. Indeterminate types are "tender" perennials,
dying annually in temperate climates (they are originally native
to tropical highlands), although they can live up to three years
in a greenhouse in some cases. Determinate types are annual
in all climates.
Tomato plants are dicots, and grow as a series of branching
stems, with a terminal bud at the tip that does the actual
growing.
Their flowers, appearing on the apical meristem, have the
anthers fused along the edges, forming a column surrounding
the pistil's style. Flowers in domestic cultivars can be self-
fertilizing. The flowers are 1–2 cm (1⁄2–3⁄4 in) across, yellow,
with five pointed lobes on the corolla; they are borne in
a cyme of three to 12 together.[citation needed]
Although in culinary terms, tomato is regarded as a vegetable,
its fruit is classified botanically as a berry.[12] As a true fruit, it
develops from the ovary of the plant after fertilization, its flesh
comprising the pericarp walls. The fruit contains hollow spaces
full of seeds and moisture, called locular cavities. These vary,
among cultivated species, according to type. Some smaller
varieties have two cavities, globe-shaped varieties typically
have three to five, beefsteak tomatoes have a great number of
smaller cavities, while paste tomatoes have very few, very small
cavities.
Importance of tomato
10 Reasons Why You Should Be Eating More Tomatoes
6/13/2011 – There is more to eating Florida tomatoes than good
taste, they are great for your health! 10 good reasons to eat
more! Tomatoes are full of health enhancing properties, read on
to discover how the humble tomato can improve your health.
Tomatoes are loaded with many, many health benefits. In fact,
they are incredibly versatile and can be prepared in a seemingly
endless number of dishes, as well as being great to eat alone.
Keep reading to find out why you need to stop neglecting
tomatoes as a part of your regular balanced diet.
9 Health Benefits from Eating Tomatoes
1. Tomatoes are good for your skin.
Tomatoes contain a high level of lycopene, which is a substance
that is used in some of the more pricy facial cleansers that are
available for purchase over-the-counter.
If you want to try tomatoes for skin care, you need to start with
about eight to twelve tomatoes. Peel the tomatoes and then
place the skin on your face with inside of the tomato touching
your skin.
Leave the tomatoes on your face for a minimum of ten minutes,
then wash. Your face will feel clean and shiny. Some redness
may occur, but should fade with time.
2. Tomatoes help prevent several types of cancer.
A number of studies have been conducted that indicate that the
high levels of lycopene in tomatoes works to reduce your
chances of developing prostate, colorectal and stomach
cancer.
Lycopene is a natural antioxidant that works effectively to slow
the growth of cancerous cells. Cooked tomatoes produce even
more lycopene, so go ahead and cook up a batch of your
mom’s famous tomato soup.
3. Tomatoes help maintain strong bones.
Tomatoes contain a considerable amount of calcium and
Vitamin K. Both of these nutrients are essential in
strengthening and performing minor repairs on the bones as
well as the bone tissue.
4. Tomatoes help repair damage caused by smoking.
No, eating tomatoes is not the most recent fad to help you quit
smoking. However, tomatoes can reduce the amount of
damaged done to your body by smoking cigarettes.
Tomatoes contain coumaric acid and chlorogenic acid that work
to protect the body from carcinogens that are produced from
cigarette smoke.
5. Tomatoes provide essential antioxidants.
Tomatoes contain a great deal of Vitamin A and Vitamin C. This
is primarily because these vitamins and beta-carotene work as
antioxidants to neutralize harmful free radicals in the blood.
Free radicals in the blood stream are dangerous because it may
lead to cell damage. Remember, the redder the tomato you eat
is, the more beta-carotene it contains. In addition, you also want
to keep in mind that cooking destroys the Vitamin C, so for
these benefits, the tomatoes need to be eaten raw.
6. Tomatoes are good for your heart.
Because of the Vitamin B and potassium in tomatoes, they are
effective in reducing cholesterol levels and lowering blood
pressure. Therefore, by including tomatoes in your regular
balanced diet you can effectively prevent heart attacks, strokes
as well as many other heart related problems that may threaten
your life.
7. Tomatoes are good for your hair.
The Vitamin A in tomatoes works perfectly to keep your hair
shiny and strong. In addition, it also does wonders for your
eyes, skin, bones and teeth.
8. Tomatoes are good for your kidneys.
Adding tomatoes without seeds to your diet has been proven in
some studies to reduce the risk of kidney stones.
9. Tomatoes are good for your eyes.
The Vitamin A found in tomatoes is fantastic for improving your
vision. In addition, eating tomatoes is one of the best foods to
eat to prevent the development of night blindness.
Tomatoes are packed full of the valuable mineral known as
chromium. It works effectively to help diabetics keep their blood
sugar levels under better control.
Climatic and soil requirements
Climate
Tomato is warm season crop. Grows well is those retain that
are free from frost. It can’t be grown successfully in places of
higher rainfall. Temperature after tomato crops in following
ways.
1. Optimum temperature for seed germination is 26 to 320C.
2. The optimum temperature required for its cultivation is 15 –
270C. At higher temperature its blossoms drops off. The
damages great when high temp is combined with dry wind. It will
result in the failure of fruit set due to drying of stigmatic liquid.
3. Colour development: In tomato red colour is due the pigment
Lycopene. Lycopene is highest at 18 to 260C while production of
this pigment drops off rapidly above 300C and ‘nil’ above 400C.
4. Carothe is developed rapidly at high temperature.
5. If fruits exposed to direct sunlight, their tops may turn whitish
yellow & become leathery in texture. This is common in late
varietes during summer season. This condition is known as sun –
scald.
6. A warm, sunny weather is most suited for proper ripening,
colour, quality & high yield.
soil.
Types and Textures
Loam and sandy loam soils are best for tomato production, but
these plants will grow in almost all soil types except heavy clay. If
you your soil has lots of clay, you can improve the texture by
tilling the soil and incorporating sand, sawdust, peat moss or
other amendments before planting. The soil should be fairly loose
and well-drained. Tomatoes don't do well in dry soil, but avoid
planting them in excessively wet, waterlogged soil, or anywhere
standing water gathers after a rain.
Soil pH
Soil's acidity or alkalinity is measured by its pH. A pH of 7 is
considered neutral, while anything lower is acidic and anything
higher is alkaline. Tomatoes grow best in neutral or near-neutral
soil, so you may have to modify your soil's pH for best results. If
necessary,you can raise pH by incorporating ground agricultural
lime into the soil before planting.You can lower pH by adding
elemental sulfur or fertilizers that contain ammonium sulfate.
Fertility
Tomatoes grow well in moderately fertile soil with lots of organic
matter. You can incorporate compost when you prepare the soil.
Adding an all-purpose fertilizer containing potassium and
phosphorous can also be helpful. Avoid fertilizers with high
nitrogen content, because these can result in bushy plants that
produce little fruit.
A good starting point when you prepare your garden is to have
your soil tested. Soil test kits are available at most garden stores
as well as your nearest university extension office. The results of
the soil test will reveal nutrient content and pH, as well as make
recommendations for soil amendments.
Propagation of tomato
Seeds
Several tomato varieties have been specifically developed for
hydroponic production in controlled environments.
All varieties have indeterminate morphology; meaning vegetative
growth of the plant is continual and does not stop once flowering
begins. This creates long tomato "vines" which must be trained
up strings hanging from the greenhouse structures to maximize
space and manage the crop. Some of the more popular varieties
are Apollo, Belmondo, Caruso, Dombito, Larma, Perfecto, Trend
and Trust. These are hybrid varieties, and the seed can be
rather expensive. This may lead some novice growers to
consider germinating seed from mature fruit, but those
successive generations will not necessarily have the same
characteristics of the parent plants. Some hobbyists prefer to
grow successive generations from vegetative cuttings, producing
genetic clones from the original plants. This is okay on a small
scale, however, the high risk of perpetuating a latent disease or
pest problem on a large scale outweighs the cost of new seed.
Starting Media and Nutrients
Any propagation medium must be thoroughly soaked before
seeds are sown to assure uniform distribution of moisture. There
are many different propagation media available.
Seeding trays can be filled with a soilless mix, such as peat and
perlite. Peat pellets are also popular starters. Seedlings grown in
a soilless mix may have enough nutrients available to them from
the media that they would not need any additional nutrients for
the first few weeks of growth, and therefore could be watered
with fresh water only. However, seedlings in an inert medium,
such as rockwool or oasis, will definitely require nutrient solution
at all times.
Rockwool blocks are available in several sizes, and are
designed so that seeds can be placed directly into seeding
cubes, then, as the plants develop, the cubes can be nested
inside larger blocks, for a "pot in a pot" system.
Seedling system design
Overhead watering is the most common method used for
germinating seedlings. It is important for the seedlings to be in
full sun and at the proper temperature as soon as germination
occurs. When watering, the water must be sprinkled uniformly
over all seedlings to avoid uneven growth. The plants must be
checked often to assure they do not become water stressed.
Flood and drain (ebb and flow) systems can also be very
effective for germinating seedlings. Nutrient solution or water
floods a shallow tray containing the sown cubes or pots,
providing moisture from the bottom, which will diffuse
throughout the propagation block by capillary action. Once the
blocks are evenly moist, the tray is drained, which allows the
cubes or pots to drain and assure aeration of the roots. This
process will need to be repeated often throughout the day, but
may not need to be done at all during the night.
Transplanting
The three stages of early development are germination, post-
emergence, and transplant. Germination should occur within one
week of seeding, post-emergence is generally 5 to 12 days, and
transplanting should be done between 12 and 14 days from
seeding. Once true leaves appear (during post-emergence),
seedlings should be transferred into larger growing blocks (pots)
from the original seedling cubes, then evenly spaced to maximize
light to each plant, without any crowding or shading. The
transplants must be spaced so as not to touch one another, and
may need to be spread several times during their growth. If
crowded, the plants will become spindly. A good transplant is one
that is as wide as it is tall. If plants are somewhat "leggy", with
long stems, they can be transferred into the larger blocks with
their stems bent 180, so the original cube is upside-down inside
the larger block, and the main stem forms a "U" shape, emerging
vertically upward from the block. Tomato plants readily grow
adventitious roots from the stems if given the opportunity.
Double cropping
Some growers prefer to grow two crops of tomatoes in the
growing media before tearing the system down, cleaning and
sterilizing, and starting again. In this management system,
young plants would be planted in the media between the older
plants, just as the older plants are reaching their maximum
economic life span. This effectively overlaps the crops,
increasing total annual yield. However, the older plants must still
be completely removed to prevent buildup of disease and
excessive shading of the new crop, and care must be taken to
work around the younger plants. In high light regions of the
world, such as deserts and equitorial latitudes, the first crop is
generally planted in midsummer and lasts through to the end of
the year. The second crop can be planted in January and
continue through the end of June. Alternatively, one long crop
planted in late summer or fall can be grown until July.
planting of tomato
Don't Crowd Tomato Seedlings
If you are starting tomatoes from seed, give the seedlings plenty
of room to branch out. Yes, that means thinning the seedlings to
one strong plant per cell or small pot. Snip the weaker, smaller
seedlings in favor of the best grower. Crowded conditions inhibit
their growth, which stresses them and leads to disease later
on.1
Transplant tomato seedlings into their own 4-inch pots shortly
after they get their first set of true leaves.
Provide Lots of Light
Tomato seedlings need strong, direct light. Days are short during
winter, so even placing them near a sunny window may not
provide them with sufficient natural light. Unless you are growing
them in a greenhouse, your best option is to use some type
of artificial plant lighting for 14 to 18 hours every day.
Turn a Fan On
Tomato plants need to move and sway in the breeze to develop
strong stems. That happens naturally outdoors, but if you start
your seedlings inside, you need to provide some type of air
circulation. Create a breeze by turning a fan on them for five to
10 minutes, twice a day. That small amount of time will make a
big difference.
Another option is to ruffle the tomato plants by gently rubbing
your hand back and forth across their tops for a few minutes,
several times a day. It's a bit more effort, but their wonderful
tomato scent will rub off on you as a bonus.
Preheat the Garden Soil
Tomatoes love heat. They won't really start to grow until both the
soil and air temperatures remain warm. You can speed things
up in the soil by covering the planting area with black or red
plastic a couple of weeks before you intend to plant. Those extra
degrees of soil warmth will translate into earlier tomatoes.
Bury the Stems
Plant your tomato plants deeper than they come in the pot, all
the way up to the top few leaves. When planted this way,
tomatoes are able to develop roots all along their stems. And
more roots make for a stronger plant.
You can either dig a deep hole or simply dig a shallow trench
and lay the plant sideways. It will quickly straighten itself up and
grow toward the sun. Just be careful not to drive your tomato
stake or cage into the buried stem.
Mulch Tomatoes After the Soil Has Warmed
If you are not going to leave plastic on the soil, hold off
on putting down mulch until after the ground has had a chance
to warm up. Although mulching conserves water and prevents
the soil and soilborne diseases from splashing up on the plants,
if you put it down too early, it will also shade and cool the soil.
Because tomatoes love heat, allow the sun to warm the soil in
the spring. After temperatures remain warm.
Remove the Bottom Leaves
After your tomato plants reach about 2 to 3 feet tall, remove the
leaves from the bottom foot of the stem. These are the oldest
leaves, and they are usually the first leaves to develop fungus
problems. As the plants fill out, the bottom leaves get the least
amount of sun and airflow. Because these leaves sit close to the
ground, soilborne pathogens can easily splash up onto them.
Removing them helps prevent fungal diseases from taking
hold.4 Spraying weekly with compost tea also seems to be
effective at warding off fungal diseases.
Pinch and remove suckers that develop in the crotch joint of two
branches. They won’t bear fruit and will take energy away from
the rest of the plant.4
However, go easy on pruning the rest of the plant. You can thin
out a few leaves to allow the sun to reach the ripening fruit, but
it's the leaves that are photosynthesizing and creating the sugars
that give flavor to your tomatoes. Fewer leaves will mean fewer
sweet tomatoes.
Water Regularly
Water deeply and regularly while the fruits are developing.
Irregular watering—missing a week and trying to make up for it—
leads to blossom end rot (a calcium deficiency) and cracking and
splitting.5 The rule of thumb is to ensure your plants get at least 1
to 1.5 inches of water per week, but during hot, dry spells, they
may need more. If your plants start to look wilted for most of the
day, give them a drink.
After the fruit begins to ripen, you can ease up on the watering.
Lessening the water will coax the plant into concentrating its
sugars, for better flavor. Use your judgment. Don’t withhold water
so much that the plants continually wilt and become stressed or
they will drop their blossoms and possibly their fruit.
Getting Your Tomato Plants to Set Tomatoes
Tomatoes' ripening is pretty much at the mercy of the weather, but
sometimes we can help things along. Pinching off the tips of the
main stems in early summer will encourage indeterminate
tomatoes .
Plant density of tomato
Determining the plant density is a very important component of
the greenhouse preparation and determines the number of
seedling plants required for the production greenhouse. Plant
density is directly linked with final yield and quality.
Too many or too few plants per unit area of production space
will have a negative effect on yield and quality. Dense plantings
tend to result in lower yields and smaller tomatoes as can
sparse plantings. The point to remember is that there are
optimum planting density targets and these targets can vary
depending on cultivar, climate and available light.
a denser planting during high light summer months in direct
response to the changes in the available light. If a crop is
planted at the optimum density for the summer months, it will be
too dense for the early and late season.
Cultivation of tomato
Cultivation between rows of young plants is done to keep the soil
loose and to control weeds. However, the lateral spread of roots
of the tomato is quite shallow and extensive. Mechanical
cultivation should cease as soon as it becomes evident that roots
may be damaged. Thereafter only shallow hoeing is
recommended to control weeds. Earthing-up of the soil against
the stems of the plant is usually done when the plants are about
200 mm tall. Although there is little evidence of improved
performance, this ridging does promote the development of
additional roots from the stem and also reduces lodging due to
strong winds, especially from untrained plants.
Fertilizers
Most cultivars have the potential of producing yields in excess of
100 tons per hectare and thus have a fairly high nutritional
requirement. They respond particularly well to organic manuring.
In order to achieve satisfactory yields of an acceptable quality,
balanced nutrition is very important. A suitable fertilizer
programme, based on reliable soil analyses, should be
developed for each field. In many areas of KZN, the main factors
that limit yield and quality of tomatoes are high soil acidity, low
soil phosphorus status, low soil nitrogen and potassium levels,
and low soil magnesium or calcium content.
IRRIGATION OF TOMATO
Tomatoes can seldom be grown successfully without irrigation.
The total water usage of a crop of tomatoes will vary
tremendously, depending on the prevailing climatic conditions
during growth. Thus, under hot and relatively dry summer
conditions, 550 mm to 600 mm of water may be needed. In
cooler and moister regions, the requirement for a summer crop
may lie between 400 mm and 500 mm. However, in the frost-
free coastal areas, a winter crop may need only 250 mm to 350
mm of water. It is important that the root-zone be kept moist
throughout growth.
Thus, under hot and relatively dry summer conditions, 550 mm to
600 mm of water may be needed. In cooler and moister regions,
the requirement for a summer crop may lie between 400 mm and
500 mm. However, in the frost-free coastal areas, a winter crop
may need only 250 mm to 350 mm of water. It is important that
the root-zone be kept moist throughout growth. During the first
two or three weeks after transplanting, wetting the soil to a depth
of 400 mm should be practised as soon as about 25% of the
available soil moisture has been utilised. From about three to
nine weeks, the soil should be wet to a depth of 500 mm; the
allowable depletion of soil moisture is about 40%. Thereafter,
allow a depletion of, at most, 50% of available soil moisture,
before irrigating to a depth of 600 mm. The crop factors for
tomatoes are 0,3 for the first 20% of the growing season, i.e. the
first four to five weeks, 0,4 for the next 20% of growth, and 0,7
thereafter. The lateral spread of roots can be up to 1 m or more.
Irrigating the entire soil surface area is advisable, except during
the first month or so, when the plants are relatively small.
WEED CONTROL CONTROL OF TOMATO
Weeds need to be adequately controlled because they are
efficient competitors with the crop for nutrients, moisture and
sunlight. Some of them might be hosts of pests and diseases of
tomatoes, or they might provide shelter for insect pests. It is
very important that weeds be controlled in the early stages of
crop development, because early competition can more
seriously affect plant growth, and result in the lowering of crop
yields. Weed growth can also hinder the correct application of
pest and disease chemicals, which are usually necessary in the
production of tomatoes. In most instances, weeds are controlled
by means of mechanical and/or hand cultivation. Such
cultivation needs to be started timeously, before any damage to
the crop results from competition. The row spacing selected,
especially in the larger plantings, is often such that mechanical
weed control can be practised in the inter-row area during the
initial stages of growth, with hand-hoeing or hand-pulling of
weeds being applied in the plant rows.
Because tomato feeding roots are wide-spreading and shallow,
mechanical cultivation should preferably be discontinued in well-
established plantings. Chemical weed control is not normally
practised in KZN. Nevertheless, there are a number of
herbicides which are registered for use in tomato plantings Pre-
plant - trifluralin (sold as Trifluralin, Triflurex 480 and Digermin)
sprayed onto well-prepared soil and incorporated immediately,
for control of annual grasses and some broadleaved weeds.
Early post-emergence - metribuzin (Sable 480, Sencor 480 and
Contrast Turfgrass) applied between rows a fortnight after
transplanting, against annual grasses and broad-leaved weeds.
Haloxyfop - R - methyl ester (Gallant Super and Verdict Super);
control grasses when young Rimsulfuron (Cato); against young
annual grasses and broad-leaved weeds. Cycloxydim (Focus
Ultra); against grasses PESTS
Tomatoes are attacked by a very wide range of pests. The
severity of attack will vary from place to place, and from season
to season,
DISEASES OF TOMATO
Tomatoes can be affected by many diseases, several of which
cause serious losses. Before planting, each grower should be
aware of which diseases are most likely to occur locally in any
specific planting, so that timeous control measures may be
implemented. Select those cultivars or cultural practices that
reduce the impact of key diseases. One should know from where
a pathogen originates, how it disperses and infects the plant,
and what environmental conditions favour disease development.
It is most important to be able to identify the various diseases,
particularly in the initial stages of the infection, and to know
which methods of control are most likely to be successful.
Disease avoidance is one of the major factors to consider. Here
one may consider the selection of cultivars showing resistance
or tolerance to specific diseases. Site selection, disease-free
seed or transplants, crop rotation, planting times, irrigation
practices, good general sanitation, good nutrition, and many
other cultural practices,
which encourage strong, active growth, should all be taken into
account. They lessen the chances of disease infection, and may
reduce the impact of diseases, should these occur. Chemical
control of many diseases often becomes essential. Most of
these chemicals have a preventative action only, and cannot
cure infected plants. They are used by regularly depositing a
layer of chemical on the plant parts to prevent initial infection or,
where light infections have occurred, to prevent or reduce the
spread of the disease from infected to healthy tissue. A routine
preventative spray programme to control early and late blights,
as well as certain bacterial diseases, is generally advisable.
SOME IMPORTANT FIELD DISEASES OF TOMATO Early
blight (Alternaria solani) Early blight occurs on leaves,
commencing on older leaves.
Small dark lesions, enlarging to have concentric rings in the
lesions (hence the alternative name target spot), with
surrounding areas becoming chlorotic (yellow), are the initial
symptoms. With increasing numbers of lesions.
Harvesting of tomato
The stage of maturity at which the fruit is picked, as well as the
intervals between picks, is determined by several factors. For
distant markets or where there are large time delays between
picking and marketing, the fruit needs to be harvested at a less
mature stage. This also applies under high temperature
conditions, which hasten fruit ripening and deterioration. The
market preference also plays a role; processors and certain
communities prefer fully coloured fruits, whereas most retail
outlets favour less mature fruits. Tomatoes are picked at the
following stages of maturity: The pale green stage; fruits which
have reached this stage of development will continue to ripen
internally, as well as develop the characteristic red colour of ripe
fruit, whereas less mature fruits will never ripen or colour up
properly. These fruits have a pale green colour, particularly
around the blossom-end of the fruit, the contents of the seed
cavity are jelly-like and fill the entire seed cavity; the hard dry
appearance will have disappeared.
It should be possible to cut such fruits in half with a sharp knife,
without cutting the seed which should simply push aside into the
softer flesh. By cutting a few fruits occasionally, and noting the
difference in skin colour between the pale green stage and less
mature fruits, pickers can be taught to recognise fruits that are
ready for harvest. Great care must be taken not to harvest
immature fruits, as these will not ripen satisfactorily. The early
light-red stage; fruits at this stage have just begun to show a red
tint, usually at the bottom end, but sometimes on the sunny side
of the fruit. The light red stage; at this stage of maturity, virtually
the entire fruit shows a rosy or light-red colour. During
continuous cool weather it is sometimes advisable to pick
tomatoes at this stage for sale at relatively nearby markets.
However, colour development is rapid at this stage of
development under hot conditions, and the danger exists that a
portion of the crop may become over-ripe, particularly during
harvest peaks, and over holidays or weekends. Long shelf-life
tomatoes are not picked earlier than this stage.
The red or ripe stage; the greater portion of the fruit has
developed the full red colour, but should still be firm, without any
signs of softening. Daily picking is essential, and should be used
only for nearby markets where the demand is for fully coloured
fruits. Fruits of the desired maturity are picked by hand. Lug-
boxes, baskets or other suitable containers are used for gathering
the tomatoes and transporting them to the grading and packing
shed.
POST-HARVEST HANDLING OPERATIONS
Post-harvest operations refer to activities done to the fresh
produce in preparation for marketing to meet the requirements of
the target market. These operations can be done in the field, in
collection centers or in a packinghouse. The packing area should
provide adequate protection from sun and rain, kept clean at all
times, and pet animals should be kept away from the packing
area. All workers should maintain a high degree of personal
hygiene and where appropriate, should wear suitable protective.
Cleaning/washing
In places where tomatoes are not staked or trellised and grown
during the rainy season, soil particles may adhere on the fruit
(Photo 10). Soil-borne decay-causing microorganisms can cause
fruit rots thus the need to clean them prior to marketing. A
disinfectant like sodium hypochlorite (ordinary bleaching solution)
can be added to the clean water (4 tablespoon per gallon of
water). Washing in 2 percent sodium bicarbonate (20 grams
baking soda per liter of water) was shown to reduce storage rot.
Fruits should be dried properly prior to packaging. Tomatoes can
also be cleaned by wiping them with moist cloth (Photo 11). Insure
however, that the water and the cloth used in wiping the fruit are
clean to prevent contaminating the fruit.
Sorting/grading
Good quality tomatoes are generally preferred by buyers, thus
sorting/grading is a necessary operation. Sorting is the grouping
of tomatoes based on the criteria of the one classifying and there
is no definite set of standards followed.
After harvest, tomatoes are arbitrarily classified as “Class A”
(excellent quality) or “Class B” (with minor defects). The names
of the grades are determined or specified by the buyer. Good
quality and safe tomato fruits are mature, clean, well-formed,
free from insect and disease damage, free from mechanical
damage such as cuts, abrasion and punctures, free from
microbial, chemical and physical contamination. Tomato fruits
with the following defects, on the other hand, are most likely to
be rejected Insect-and disease-damaged. Mechanically-
damaged such as cuts, punctures, abrasion, compression. With
preharvest defects such as deformation and cracks.
Sorting is done using a simple sorting table where sorters are
positioned on both sides of the sorting table. Sorted tomatoes
are packed directly in the container.
With the use of sorting table, contact of the fruit on the soil is
prevented. Sorting of tomatoes on the ground with plastic sheet
as underlay.
PACKAGING
Proper packaging is essential in maintaining product quality
during transport and subsequent handling. The basic functions
of packaging are to contain sufficient volume of produce, to
protect the contents, to sell the produce, and to inform the buyer
about the produce. Packaging materials Rigid containers such
as plastic crates are highly recommended for tomatoes since
they provide adequate protection against compression
damage . They have smooth inside finish and can be easily
cleaned. They are also stackable and reusable/returnable.
Although more expensive than the traditional packaging
containers, plastic crates have been shown that in long run use
(5-6 years), the packaging cost per kg of produce is relatively
cheaper. Plastic bags, plastic sack and red mesh bags do not
provide adequate protection to the contents.
They are readily damaged and will lead to fruit deterioration.
Injuries often incurred include compression manifested as
flattened areas and breaks in the skin.
Considerations in the use of plastic crates
Hygiene – plastic crates should be thoroughly cleaned with
soap/detergent after use. Sanitizer such as sodium hypochlorite
reduce microbial load in plastic crate. ✦ Handling – handle with
care during loading, stacking and unloading; do not drop. Don’t
use as seats when sorting Storage – store in a clean area that
will prevent harborage of insects and rodents. Store separately
from chemicals and farm machinery to prevent contamination.
Crates should not be left exposed to the external environment
since they will readily wear out.Do not use as storage container
for chemicals (fertilizers and pesticides) if used for fresh
produce.
TRANSPORT
The main objective in transport is to insure that tomatoes will
arrive in top quality condition to the final market. Tomatoes often
undergo three (3) transport stages: (a) farm to collection cente
or packing shed, (b) packing shed to wholesale market, and (c)
In all of these stages, follow the proper transport practices given
below:Handle containers gently; they should not be dropped or
thrown on to each other.Do not seat on top of packed tomatoes
during field transport Containers at the bottom should not be
used as steps to allow stacking to a greater height especially if
semi-rigid containers like cartons are used.Do not expose
tomatoes to the sun during transport.Allow air to circulate in the
stacks or piles of produce by providing space in between stacks.
If canvass is used as cover, provide space for air to pass
through at the bottom and top of stack; Use light colored
material as cover as this will reflect heat.
Minimize delays or facilitate transfer of packages from one part
of the market to another; four-wheeled hand trolleys (Photo 22)
will minimize damage during unloading and transfer of produce
packed in plastic crates.
Observe cleanliness of the transport vehicle; produce safety is
compromised.
when:there are decaying remains of produce from the previous
shipment insects and rodents nesting in the vehicles vehicle
used as storage area of farm implements when not in use
HANDLING AT WHOLESALE AND RETAIL MARKETS
The wholesale and retail markets serve as the outlets of tomato
farmers, collectors and other traders. The basic rules that should
be observed are as follows:Unload containers from the transport
vehicle under cover/shade with careful handling to minimize
mechanical damage.Re-sort tomatoes using sorting table
Discard culls properly.Re-grade tomatoes according to size,
appearance and stage of ripeness as the case maybe depending
on the requirement of the target market.Place tomatoes in a
clean storage room in the wholesale market; keeping packed
tomatoes near vegetable trimmings, culls and wastes will lead to
contamination.
In the retail market, it is best to sell tomatoes in retail packs
since this will prevent frequent handling of customers when they
select tomatoes.
Frequent handling of customers may also lead to contamination.
If retail packaging cannot be done, tomatoes should be placed in
appropriate containers during retail display. Displaying tomatoes
loose on the ground with plastic mat underlay may not provide
adequate protection from contamination (Photo 27). ✦ When
retailing in open-air market and roadside stalls, tomatoes on
display should be under shade for sun and rain protection.
THANK YOU!!!