Summe r Textile Internship

DECLARATION

We Sakshi kaul, Sohini Ali and Sunistha Singh hereby declare that the
internship project report titled “Summer Textile Internship”, submitted
towards the fulfillment of two weeks internship is our original work and no part
of the project has been copied from any other reports or any other work carried
by someone else which has been submitted for any other degree or award.
However, any material taken from any other published source has been
suitably referred and acknowledged at various spaces.

( )

Ms. Subhalakshmi Kropi

NAME: Sakhi Kaul

Sohini Ali
Sunistha Singh
BATCH: 2013-17.
DATE: 25th May 2015 – 06th June 2015.
PLACE: Arvind Textile Mills, Santej,
Ahmedabad, Gujrat, India – 380015.
CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that the Internship Project titled “Summer Textile Internship”,

submitted towards the partial fulfillment of the Bachelors in Fashion

Technology
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 1
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

by Sakshi Kaul, Sohini Ali and Sunistha Singh is their original work under

my guidance and the results are based on the research done by them.

Ms. Subhalakshmi Kropi

DATE:

PLACE:

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We are grateful to NIFT for providing us an opportunity to work on our “Summer

Textile Internship”. We express our whole hearted thanks to our Mentor Ms.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 2

(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

Subhalakshmi Kropi for her encouragement and moral support in organizing our
work and giving us valuable information for making it presentable.

We are indebted to Mr. Kabir Sarosh (Processing Department Supervisor) and

Mr. Rajesh Tiwari(Weaving Department Supervisor), who guided and supervised
us throughout this study. We have no words to express our gratitude towards them.

We are also thankful to Ms. Shivangi Seth (Human Resource Department) for
providing us the details of conducting the research from its inception.

We will be failing in our duty if we do not mention the name of our Director
Prof. V Shivalingam and other faculty members for their help in our Internship
Project.

Lastly, we are also obliged to our family and friends for providing us valuable
suggestions.

1. INTRODUCTION

1. TEXTILE INDUSTRY

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 3

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with
the design or manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use of
textiles. Textile is a general term applied to any manufacture from fibers,
filaments, or yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length
to thickness. Textile Industry is unique in the terms that it is an independent
industry, from the basic requirement of raw materials to the final products, with
huge value-addition at every stage of processing.

Textile Internship as a module in the course of Apparel Production emphasizes

on the learning of the processes in the Textile Industry which involves the
major processes of procuring raw material, spinning, weaving or knitting,
dyeing, printing, finishing, testing and quality control measures. The internship
revolves around observing the functioning and processing at a Textile
Manufacturing Unit.

It also greatly focuses on the learning of the process parameters,

working conditions, process flow and other important criteria in the
manufacturing process. It is also important to observe the machinery
details, safety measures, and productivity, testing and quality criteria. We
were to understand the step-wise breakdown of all the process, how they are
carried and what are the start and end- product at each of these steps.

1.2. INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

 Indian textile industry and market size

 Textiles sector contributes to 14 per cent of industrial
production.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 4
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 4 per cent of national GDP.

 10.63 per cent of country's export earnings.

• MARKET SIZE
 India's share of global textile exports is expected to increase from
the
 Current 4% to around 7% over the next three-years

• GROWTH RATE OF ARVIND LIMITED

 3-4 percent during
the last six decade
 9-10 percent during
last five year

• SCOPE OF RIVALRY
 Raymond India
 Welspun India ltd
 Alok Industries
 Gokaldas Exports
 Arvee Industries
Fig 1.1. Arvind ltd. Revenue
 Bharat Vijay mills

1.3. OBJECTIVE OF TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 5

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

The objective of our textile internship at Arvind Limited was to understand

the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric production, dyeing, printing
and finishing of fabric, textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as
well as for commercial purposes.

Our first step was to learn about the profile of the company and their
basic dealings. We further dealt with the way the company handles the raw
material and sends it through to subsequent stages of manufacturing. We were to
learn about the various stages in the entire process of textile manufacturing,
the importance of each of these stages, the machinery features, machine
and material process parameters available in detail in the areas as mentioned
below.

We summarize some of the major concepts that we were to observe and

understand during our internship:

 Spinning Section

 Weaving Section

 Dyeing Section

 Quality Assurance Section

 Environmental Factors

1.4. COMPANY OVERVIEW

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 6

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Date of Establishment 1931

Revenue 604.01 ( USD in Millions )
Market Cap 18037.2105231 ( Rs. in
Corporate Address Millions )
Naroda Road, , Ahmedabad-
Management Details 380025, Gujarat
Chairperson - Sanjay S Lalbhai
www.arvindmills.com
MD - Sanjay S Lalbhai
Directors – Bakul Dholakia, G M Yadwadkar, Jayesh
K Shah, K M Jayarao, KulinLalbhai, Munesh Khanna,
PrabhakarChavan, Prabhakar,Dalal, PunitLalbhai, R V
Bhimani, R W Khanna, RenukaRamanath, S R Rao,
Sanjay S Lalbhai,Sudhir Mehta, TarunSheth

Business Operation Textile

Company Secretary R V Bhimani

Bankers ABN Amro Bank, Axis Bank , Bank of Baroda,

Canara Bank , EXIM Bank, HDFC Bank, ICICI
Bank, Standard Chartered Bank, State Bank of
Hyderabad, State Bank of India, State Bank of
Patiala, UCO Bank
Auditors Sorab S Engineer & Co

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 7

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

1.5. COMPANY PROFILE

The Arvind Ltd. was set up with the pioneering effort of the Lalbhai brothers
in 1931. With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a
true Indian multinational, having chosen to invest strategically, where demand has
been high and quality required has been superlative. The Arvind Mills Limited
is the flagship company of Rs.20 billion (US$ 500 million). Arvind Mills has set
the pace for changing global customer demands for textiles and has focused its
attention on selection of core products.

Fore vision and Technology has made Arvind one of the top three producers of
Denim in the world, and the most diversified conglomerates in the world. Arvind
is already making its presence felt in Shirting’s, Knits and Khakis fabrics apart
from being all set to create ripples in the ready to wear Garments world over.

Arvind’s knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 10,000 tons.

Apart from the basic knitting capabilities, Arvind has mastered specialty
knitting techniques such as yarn-dyed auto stripers, jacquards, and stretch fabric.
The knits vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 6500 tons per annum and
yarn dyeing capacity of 3500 tons per annum. It has the ability to process
both tubular and open-width fabric and offer specialty finishes like
mercerization, singing and various forms of brushing and peaching. The
department also boasts of a state-of- the art print shop equipped with fully
automatic rotary screen printing technique.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 8

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

1.5.1. VISION AND VALUES

The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum of all business
activities at Arvind is that of enhancing lifestyles of people, across all diversities
and demographics. To serve that end, the corporate vision for Arvind states:
‘We will enable people to experience a better quality of life by providing
enriching and inspiring lifestyle solutions’.

1.5.2. MILESTONES

1931 -The inception of Arvind Mills at the hands of three brothers – Kastur
bhai, Narottam bhai and Chimanbhai Lalbhai.

1934 - Arvind establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the
country.

1980 - Arvind records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy – ‘Reno
vision’, points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a
high- quality premium niche market.

1987-88 - Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus -
Denim for leisure and Denim for fashion wear.

1991 - Arvind emerges as the third largest manufacturer of denim in the world.

1997 - India’s largest state-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is
set up at Santej.

2005 - Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale,

offering garment packages to reputed national and international customers.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 9
(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

2007 - Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by
establishing Mega Mart – One of India’s largest value retail chains.

2010 - Arvind launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the company’s
best fabrics, brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions under one roof.

 Arvind launches its first major Real Estate projects.

 Arvind becomes one of India’s largest producers of fire protection

fabrics.

2012 – Joint venture with PD Group, Germany, for manufacture of glass

fabrics.

2014 – Joint venture with PVH Corp for Calvin Klein Businesses in India.

 Launches Formal suits with Goodhill Corporation Limited of Japan.

2014 – Joint venture with OG Corp, Japan, for manufacture and sale of non-
woven fabrics, project being spearheaded by Dr. Kunal Shah.

2014 – Forayed into the E-commerce segment with custom clothing

brand 'Creyate'.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 10

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

1.5.3. ARVIND TODAY

Arvind has a strong focus on Research and Development for process

improvement, cost reduction and new product development. This is evident in the
fact that Arvind continuously modifies its production process to enhance
flexibility on the use of various types and quality of cotton.

State-of-the-art technology and equipment have made Arvind one of the

leading producers of denim in the world. This cutting edge position comes
to Arvind courtesy technologies such as Open-end Spinning, Foam Finishing,
Mercerizing, Slasher-dyeing, Rope-dyeing, Air-Jet, Projectile and Wet
Finishing. It’s only natural that Arvind quality fabrics are in high demand in
the markets of Europe, US, West Asia, the Far East and Asia Pacific.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 11

(2013-17)

Fig. 1.2 Arvind

 Summe r Textile Internship

Fig. 1.3

1.5.4. PRODUCTION FLOW CHART

ARVIND LIMITED

Managing Director (SANJAY LALBHAI)

Human Store Exports Quality Garment Packages

Resource & Assuranc Divisions
Departme

Spinnin Weavin Processin Engineerin

g&
Finishing

Administratio Order
n and Management &

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 12

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Order Purchases Administration

Management
Production Accounts
Sampling
Inspection Banking
Documentation
ISO
Invoicing
Co-
ordinati
on
1.6. COMPANY PROCESS FLOW

The customer and the marketing department communicate with each other. The
marketing department then talks with Product Development Group (PDG) and
then communicates the terms discussed to the Quality Assurance and Product
Planning and Control (PPC) who decide on the various guidelines and the time
required to execute the order. These guidelines are then communicated to the
plant head who conveys them to the various departments according to the
guidelines and instructions. The fabric is then sent to the fabric inspection and
then to the Central Quality Assurance, who sends it to folding and dispatch from
where other financial activities follow.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 13

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Fig 1.4 Company Process Flow

1.7.

DENIM
The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer
the manufacture of denim in India.
Today with an installed capacity of
over 110 million meters per annum,
Arvind is a leading producer of
denim worldwide. Design,
Innovations and Sustainability have
been their core competency and
have played a key role in their
success. The use of sophisticated
many firsts in theFig intern ational markets. All their products are designed
and ultramodern technology
modeled on the basis of expert design inputs coming from their designers based
under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to
out of India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come
deliver
with the hallmark of distinctiveness and quality.

Some Examples:

 Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim

 Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge
 Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen
 Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes
 Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim
 Organic, BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and Sustainable denim

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 14

(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX
100, GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Our labs are certified by NABL (ISO
17025 certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc.

1.8. KNITS
Arvind’s knits department has an
annual knitting capacity of 5,000
tons. The knits vertical has a fabric
dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per
annum and yarn dyeing capacity of
1800 tons per annum. It has the
ability to process both tubular and nd offers specialty finishes
open-width fabrics singeing
like mercerization, a Fig 1.6 and various forms of brushing and peaching.

Basic knits:

 Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock

 Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch

fabric

 Fibres: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester

 Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.

Marks & Spencer – Eddie Bauer – Zara – Josepha Banks

1.9. WOVEN (SHIRTING)

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 15

(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

Their expertise in new age shirting

fabric and bottom weights is
unparalleled. Their shirting fabrics
have consistently fetched a
premium in the local and
international markets. Their state of
the art facility is capable of

Fig 1.7
producing a total of 65 million
meters per annum of Shirting and bottom weight fabrics. This capacity is set
to increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the next financial year.

They have a dedicated in-house design team constantly working on

product
innovation and fashion forecasts for the
Fig domestic and international markets. They are
the largest yardage and sampling mill in India.

Their spinning setup can produce a variety

of counts for yarn types like compacts,
slubs, singed yarn etc. Their weaving
capabilities include high-speed Airjet looms
and Rapier looms. Their finishing
capabilities include and dying ranges, caustic
continuous bleaching n,Fig
and machinery for
mercerizatio various chemical and mechanical finishes.

A sophisticated and supremely flexible package dying facility complete

with vessels ranging from 1 Kg to 750 Kgs and state of the art printing facilities
are also in place.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 16

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 In addition to cotton they now work with a variety of fibres

including Modal, Tencel, Excel, Viscose, Bemberg, Lycra, Silk, Linen,
Polyester and Nylon.
 They are host to India’s first Ammonia Mercerization Plant
 They use patented technology to impart structural stability and
superior
hand-feel for the difficult-to-handle fibres like Modal, Tencel, Excel and
Viscose
 Over the years, therein-house R&D department has successfully
developed
and perfected a number of finishes adding value to their products
and uniqueness to their range.
 Other Chemical Finishes: Wrinkle free, Prepress, Everfresh, Easy to Iron,
Stain Repellent, Nano Care, Anti-Bacterial, Permawhite etc.
 Mechanical Finishes: Aero, Peach, Brush, Diamond Emery and Carbonium

Their product range is certified by Oekotex, their processes are certified by

GOTS for producing Organic products, they are certified producers of Lycra and
Teflon based varieties, while their laboratory is accredited by Marks and
Spencers, Next, Gap Inc., Levi's, DuPont and INVISTA.

Fig 1.9
1.10. Customers

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 17

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Gap Inc – Patagonia – Tommy Hilfiger – Quicksilver – Brooks Brothers – Silver

Jeans – Calvin Klein – FCUK – Pull & Bear – Jack & Jones – Energie – Esprit –
S.Oliver – Mexx – Sisley – Benetton – Coin

Own Brands Licensened Brands

Mainstream Bridge to Luxury
Excalibur Gant U.S.A. 1949
Flying Machine Energie’

Popular Premium
Ruf & Tuf USPA
New Port University Arrow
Izod

Joint Venture Brands Popular

Bridge to Luxury Cherokee
Tommy Hilfiger Mossimo

Premium
Lee
Wrangler

1.11.
PRO
DUC
TIO
N
PLA
NNI
NATIONAL
NG INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 18
(2013-17)
CO
NTR
 Su mmer Textile Internship

The thumb rule for calculation of lead time:

 Pre- spinning procedures: 3 days

 Spinning: 15-20 days

 Warping and dyeing- 3 days

 For every weaving cycle- 3 to 4 days(weaving cycles depend on the

order qty and above mentioned factors)

 Usually for one order about 8 to 10 weaving cycles required

 Finishing processes- 1 day for each process, if not covered in the

integrated finish processing machine

 Inspection 2 to 3 days

 Washing 2 to 3 days

1.11.1. RAW MATERIAL

 Cotton

 100 kilo cotton = 88 kilo of yarn(for combed yarn) (75% yarn realisation)

 Loss: 1 % sizing, 2.3 to 2.5 % weaving, 1% warping (total 4 to 4.5%)

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 19

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

SPINNING SECTION

2. SPINNING SECTION
“To produce quality yarns for world class shirtings with optimum cost
within stipulated time frame through continuous improvement.”
In Arvind open end spinning process is carried out. They have two separate lines
of
manufacturing, for cotton and synthetic fibers. Each line has the same machines
in the same amount.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 20

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

2.1. LAYOUT OF THE SPINNING SECTION

Fig. 2.1 Spinning

2.2. RAW MATERIAL

2.2.1. STORAGE

 Bales are bought and stored into the cotton godown at the shirting
section.

 Weight of the bale (comes in packages of 220 to 250 kg)

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 21

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 Storage Area: 1500-2000 sq.

M

 Capacity: 4000-6000 bales

2.2.2. VARIETY OF COTTON FOR SHIRTING DIVISION

 Pakistan cotton

 Bani Brahma Maharashtra baby cotton

 American cotton

 Recycle cotton

 Gizza-76, 45 & 88(Egyptian)

 Australian ELS

 Cotton in Arvind Mills is mainly imported from Pakistan, Turkey,

U.S.A., Australia, Egypt and China.

FLOW SECTION/FLOW OUTPUT FUNCTION

ORDE
R
1. BLOW ROOM Cotton tuft Opening, cleaning and blending

2. CARD Sliver Individualization of fibre, neps

removal and sliver preparation

3. PRE DEFRAME Breaker sliver Parallisation and improvement in

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 22

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

sliver

4. UNILAP Comber lap To prepare lap sheet suitable for

combing

5. COMBER Combed sliver Short removal,

fibre and sliver
individualization
preparation
6. POST DRAW Finisher sliver Parallisation and improvement in
FRAME sliver quality (by mass variation)

7. SPEED FRAME Roving bobbin To prepare a suitable roving for

ring frame by inserting twist

To produce on smaller
Yarn yarn package
8. RING FRAME

9. To prepare bigger package after

RANDOM Cleared yarn
removing faults WINDING

10. ASSEMBLY Assembled yarn To assemble the yarn

WINDING

11. TFO Double yarn To impart twist in assembled

yarn and produce bigger package

12. SINGEING Singed yarn To remove protruding fibres on

the surface

Table 1. Flow Order of

2.3. TRUTZSCHLER BLOW ROOM PROCESSES

The basic purpose of blow room is to supply small, clean homogeneously
blended fibre tufts, if more than one variety of fibre is used to carding machine
without increasing fibre rupture, fibre neps, and broken seed particles and
without removing more good fibres.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 23

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

The above is achieved by the following processes in the blow room:

 Pre-opening

 Pre-cleaning

▪ Mixing or Blending

▪ Fine Opening

4% of the fibre is removed in the blow room section as waste. Feeding is done by
the lattice feeding system in the blow room. Humidity in the blow room should
be around R.H. – 65% to 75%.

VARIATION:
Standard intra lap variation = 1.0%.
✓ If the variation is more than 1.0% the lap shall be rejected.

Lap Parameters:
Count Weight Length
8s - 10s 20.0 kg 36 yards
10s – 12s 16.5 kg 30 yards
15s – 20s 20.5 kg 38 yards
24s 20.0 kg 40 yards

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 24

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

The blow room is divided into two sections:

 Open end line ( for pure cotton fibre)

 Vertex line ( for manmade/ synthetic fibre)

Production capacity (at 85% efficiency)

 Weight of lap produced – 1700 kg/8hr/line

 Length of lap produced – 4000 yards/8hr/line

Total production capacity of the unit – 10 ton

Time taken to produce one lap – approx 4 – 6

min. No. Of laps produced per hour – approx. 12

1. PRE-OPENING

Machine used:
 GBR-II
 Make- Trutzschler (Germany)
 400 kg/hour

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 25

(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

▪ The tuft size in the missing should be as small as possible. Normally

it should be less than 10 grams.
▪ Since this machine does not take care of long term blending, mixing
should be done properly to maintain the homogenous blending
▪ This machine is not meant to remove trash , hence the fibre loss should
also
be less
▪ Trash removal in this machine will result in breaking the seeds, which
is very difficult to remove
▪ It is easier to remove the bigger trash than the smaller trash, therefore
enough care should be taken to avoid breaking the trash particles
▪ This machine is just to open the tufts into small sizes so that
cleaning becomes easier in the next machines.
▪ The fibre tuft size from this machine should be preferably around
100 to 200
milligrams.
▪ If tuft size is small, removing trash particles becomes easier, because
of large surface area

2.3.2. PRE-CLEANING

Machine used:

 Axiflow Cleaner

 Machine make: Trutzschler (Germany)

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 26

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 Model: 52-2502

 Pressure- 50-75 Bar

▪ Pre-cleaning should be gentle.

▪ Since removing finer trash particles is difficult, seeds and bigger

trash particles should not be broken.

▪ Finer trash particles require severe treatment in Fine openers.

This will lead to fibre damage and more nep generation.

▪ Therefore, pre-cleaning should be as gentle as possible and no

compromise on this. If pre-opening and pre-cleaning are done
properly, consistency in trash removal by fine openers is
assured.

 Dust removal should be started in this machine. Enough care should

be taken remove dust in this process.

 The fibre treatment in this machine is very gentle because the fibres are
not gripped by the feed roller during beating.

 Fibre tufts treated by the pin beater when it is carried by air medium

 All heavy trash particles fall down before it is broken

 Cleaning efficiency of this machine is very high in the blow room line
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 27
(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

 Mostly all heavy seeds( full seeds) fall in this machine without any
problem

 Around 50 Pascal suction pressure should be maintained in the

waste chamber for better cleaning efficiency

 Beater speed, air velocity through the machine, grid bar setting and
gap between grid bars will affect the cleaning efficiency

 Higher the cleaning efficiency, higher the good fibre loss, higher the
nep generation and higher the fibre rupture

 The optimum cleaning means maximum cleaning performance,

minimum loss of good fibres, a high degree of fibre preservation and
minimum nep generation.

2.4. BLENDING PROCESS

Fig.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 28

(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

Cotton is passed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton to blending
apron. Blending apron has sharp spikes the raise cotton until part of it is knocked
off by the roll. Some of the cotton stays on apron. The cotton knocked back by roll
and continues to chum and blend until picked up again by apron. Another roll
strips off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll. Cotton falls on
conveyor belt and is carried to next process. It is necessary so as to obtain
uniformity of fiber quality.

MACHINE USED: BLENDOMAT -TRUETZSCHLER

Model BDT/019/2300
Bale Layout BOTH SIDES (2 ROWS)
No Of Bales 50-60
Weight Of Bales 110-167 kgs
Mode Of Bale Laying MANUAL
Material In Process COTTON WITH IMPURITIES

 It helps to maintain the homogeneity of the long term blending.

 Cotton is opened gently without recycling as it is done in manual

bale openers.

 With the latest automatic bale opening machines, the tuft size can be
as small as 50 to 100 grams without rupturing the fibres.

 The opening roller speed should be around 1500 to 1800 rpm.

 the depth of penetration of the opening should be as minimum as

possible for better quality.

 It is better to use this machine with one mixing or maximum two

mixing at the same.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 29
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 If the production per feeding machine is less than 150 kgs, then
four mixings can be recommended.

2.5. OPENING PROCESS

Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder.
The rapidly whirling beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash,
and loosen up the mass. The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air
is sucked out of them by fan. This draws the cotton from beater and condenses it
on the surface of the screen rolls from which it is taken and passed on by the
small rolls.

Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes
cotton to another type of beater. From beater the
cotton passes to a conveyor and is
carried to hopper. The fiber is mixed and
passed to an opener, cylinders with
protruding fingers open up the limp and
free the trash. The kind and number of
cylinders or beaters, employed depend
upon the type of cotton that is being
processed. As the cotton is opened, trash
Fig.
series of grid abars.
falls through

MACHINE USED: GBR COTTON OPENER

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 30

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Model No GBR
Opening Speed 400 Kg/Hr
Tuft Size 50-100 gms
Opening Roller Speed 1500-1800 rpm
No. Of Mixings 2
No. Of Chambers 8
Power Consumption 4.95 W

2.6. CARDING PROCESS

Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be
removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be straightened. The
straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING. The work
is done by carding machine. The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn
o rapidly revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly
moves concentrically above this cylinder. As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is
pulled by the cylinder through the small gap under the brushes; the teasing action
removes the remaining trashes, disentangles the fibers, and arranges them in a
relatively parallel manner in form of a thin web. This web is drawn through a
funnel shaped device that molds it into a round rope like mass called card sliver.
Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons serviceable for
inexpensive cotton fabrics.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 31

(2013-17)

Fig.
 Summe r Textile Internship

STEPS: The lap from pucker unrolls and feed roll passes cotton licker in roll
(covered with saw toothed wire).The licker in roll passes fiber against cleaner
bars and gives it up to large cylinder which passes between the thousands of fine
wires on surface of cylinder and on flats. The
cotton follows large cylinder to doffer
cylinder, which remove lint from large
cylinder. The doffer comb vibrates against
doffer cylinder and takes lint off in a filmy
web that passes through condenser rolls,
coiler head, and then into can. The sliver
may be passed from one can to combing for
further removal of foreign matter and
parallelization of fiber or directly to drawing.
Fig.
MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 32

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Make TRUTZSCHLER
Model DK 803
No Of Machines 14
Card Cleaning Efficiency 62-67%
Temperature 33.3 C
Humidity 56.5%
Pressure 325 Pascal
Production 80 Kgs/Hr
Front Delivery Speed 210.240 Min

2.7. DRAWING PROCESS

The combining of several fibers for the
drawing, or drafting, process eliminates
irregularities that would cause too much
variation if the slivers were pulling
through singly. The draw frame has
several pairs of rollers, each advanced set
of which revolves at a progressively faster
speed. This action pulls the staple
lengthwise over each other, thereby
producing longer and thinner slivers.
After several stages of

Fig. 2.6 drawing out,

condensed sliver the
is taken to the slubber,
where rollers similar to those in the drawing frame draw out the cotton
further. Here the slubbing is passed to the spindles, where it is given its first
twist and is then wound on bobbins.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 33

(2013-17)

Fig. 2.7
 Summe r Textile Internship

STEPS: Her six cans that were filled at cards feed each drawing from delivery.
The spoons are connected so that if any one of the six slivers from can
should break, the machine automatically stops. This prevents making uneven
yarn later. Each of four set of rolls runs successively faster than preceding set.
The last set runs approximately six times as the first set; consequently, sliver
coming out is the same size as each one of six going in. but is attenuated to six
times the length per minute. The sliver is neatly coiled again in roving can by
coiler head. The sliver is now much more uniform and fibers much more nearly
parallel. The sliver is now ready for roving frames.

2.8. COMBING PROCESS

When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an
additional straightening called COMBING. In this operation, fine-toothed
combs continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged with such a
high degree of parallelism that the short fibers, called noils, are combed out
and completely separated out from the longer fibers.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 34

(2013-17)

Fig. 2.8
 Summe r Textile Internship

Fig. 2.7

The combing process forms a comb sliver made of the longest fibers, which,
in turn, produces a smoother and more even yarn. This operation as much as
25% of the original card sliver; thus almost one fourth of the raw cotton
becomes waste. The combing process, therefore, is identified with consumer
goods of better quality. Since long-staple yarns produce stronger, smoother,
and more serviceable fabrics, quality cotton goods carry labels indicating
that they are made from combed yarns or combed yarns.

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:

Make LAKSHMI
Model No LK69
Production Capacity 2.1 TONS/DAY
Speed 600
M

2.9. SPINNING PROCESS

The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it passes
through several sets of rollers running at successively higher rates of speed and
is finally drawn out to yarn of the size desired. Spinning machines are of two
types; ring
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 35
(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

frame and mule frame. The ring frame

is faster process, but produces a
relatively coarse yarn. for very fine
yarns, such as worsted, the mule frame
is required because of its slow,
intermittent operation.

The ring frame, which is general in use,

is more suitable for the manufacture of
Fig. 2.9
cotton yarns in mass production.
Its
hundreds of spindles, whirling thousands of revolutions per minute, and
its constant spinning action provide a fast operation. The ring
spinning frame completes the manufacture of yarn (1) by drawing out the
roving (2) by inserting twist, and (3) by winding the yarn on bobbins-all in one
operation. The bobbins of yarn are removed for such processing as may be
desired; for example, the yarn may be reeled into skeins for bleaching or may be
wound on cheeses, or spools, for ultimate weaving.

STEPS: The principle of spinning is same as that used in roving except that the
operation is more refined and a ring and traveler are used instead of the flyer.
From
bobbin roving is fed
Fig.betwee
2.9 n set of drafting rolls to draw strand down to its
final
desired size. The spindle turns bobbin at a constant speed. The front set of rolls is
adjusted to deliver yarn at a speed sufficient to insert desired mount of twist as
strand moves along. The traveler glides freely around ring. The tension caused by
drag of traveler causes yarn to wind on bobbin at same rate of speed as it
delivered by rolls.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 36

(2013-17)

Fig. 2.10
 Summe r Textile Internship

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS:

Make ZINSER
Model 351
Application Area STAPLE FIBRES UPTO
60mm
Count Range 167 – 4 TEX
Twist Range 100-3500 t/M
No Of Spindles 240-1680
Spindles Speed 25000 rpm
Ring Diameter 36-54m

2.10. OPEN END SPINNING

In open end spinning, the fibre supply is reduced, as far as possible, to

individual fibres, which are then carried forward on an air-stream as free fibres.
This permits internal stresses to be relaxed & gives rise to the term “free fibre
spinning”. These fibres are then progressively attached to the tail or “open end”
of NATIONAL
already formed
INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 37
(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

rotating yarn. This enables twist to be imparted by rotation of the yarn end.
Thus the continuously formed yarn has
only to be withdrawn & taken up
on a cross-wound package.

2.10.1. EFFICIENCY
IN SPINNING
DEPARTMENT:
Fig. 2.11

 Open end: 85 to 90%

 Draw frame: 85 to 90%

 Auto doffing system: 88%

 Manual doffing system: 75%

 Comber: 93%

 Carding: 87%

2.10.2. PRODUCTION CAPACITY OF OPEN END SPINNING

 6700 kg of 10s yarn can be produced per machine per day.

 Machines work 24 hours a day, stopping only when faulty or

for maintenance.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 38

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

11. WINDING

Machine used: Auto Coner No. 1

In this stage the cops are winded into suitable cheeses and cones. This can be
done
both manually and automatically. Before final packing and dispatching, proper
conditioning is done to the yarns. For this the Palletising machine is used. The
lustre is added by spraying very, mild dew drops every two hours. This final
cone weighs around 1.5 kilograms. Packing is done in gunny bags each carrying
40 cones and having an entire weight of 60 kilograms.

12. FREQUENTLY FACED PROBLEMS

Several defects in the yarn lead to a decrease in the production, and slows
down the manufacturing process, since these defects have to be remedied
during production. These defects are length variation, thick and thin, moiré and
count variation.

How these problems can be overcome?

Machines with quality stops (sensors) are used to overcome these defects.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 39
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Safety precautions observed

 Fire extinguisher

 Medical centre with

Ambulance

 Water hose pipe

 Boots for personal safety

 First aid box

WEAVING SECTION

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 40

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

3. WEAVING SECTION

1. PROCESS FLOW IN THE WEAVING UNIT

Fig. 3.1
The warp beams are received from the warp ing department, which is
situated
inside the main plant. The transportation between the warping and
weaving department is accomplished by the means of warp beam trolleys and
trucks. Once the warp beams reach the loom shed, individual warp threads are
needled through the heald eyes manually (drawing), hence preparing a beam
for loading on to a loom. All the warp threads have to be threaded through the
heald eyelet and its gap in the reed prior to weaving. The warp threads are
passed through eyelets on the heald. Two operators sit facing each other, across
theNATIONAL
frame andINSTITUTE
the operator facing
OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 41
(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

the reed passes a hooked needle through the heald eyes and drop wires. The
needle hook is then exposed to the second operator on the other side of the
frame; who selects the correct yarn in its proper order and puts it on the hook so
that when the needle is pulled, the yarn is threaded through the two loom parts.
This process is carried out in an area right behind the main loom shed.

The yarns are then

threaded through the
reed dents as
required by the reed
plan (denting). The

Fig. 3.2
reed is like a comb
and its purpose is to
control the
separation of the
Fig. 3.2
warp threads. Once the denting is complete, the beam is loaded as per
the requirement. Once the already loaded warp beam is exhausted, the new one
can be tied on to it by the means of manual knotting. After this the process of
weaving can be resumed in about 2 hours.

3.2. TYPES OF LOOMS

The Arvind Techno Park weaving unit at Santej houses 48 weaving looms, evenly
distributed between two makes that is 24 of each, Toyota E Shed and Picanol
Gammax. Both the looms can be bifurcated further on the basis of the number
of heald frames and/or colored wefts which they can accommodate. Listed
below is the information regarding the looms on the basis of their types and sub-
types.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 42

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

No of Looms Type
24 Toyota E Shed (Airjet Looms)
24 PicanolGammax (Rapier Looms)

Loom Type Number of Number of Number of Heald

Looms Colored Weft Frames
Toyota E Shed 6 6 16
(Airjet Loom) 18 4 16
Picanol Gammax 8 8 24
(Rapier Loom) 16 6 20
Fig 3.3.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 43

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

3.2.1. Toyota E Shed (JAT 710)

As the production begins,
the pre winder is released
which is responsible for the
release of the filling yarn
in the main
nozzle. On the other end, a catch cord
catches the weft. The yarn is detached
from the pre winder but the
end from the pre winder is
held at Fig. 3.4 Toyota E Shed (JAT
the machine end for the next
insertion. This is followed by the beat-up motion, after which shedding and
picking take place for the next pick.

3.2.2. Picanol
Gammax
PicanolGamMax is a double
rapier loom. It is equipped
with a weft presenter. The
color and weave pattern are
controlled by a
microprocessor. A light weight
gripper carries the weft yarn
from one selvedge to another
using free flight system. The loom makes e ofFig.
electronic selvedge
3.5 Picanol Gammax m.
us syste
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 44
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Listed below are the specifications of both the looms against the
respective parameters.

Toyota E Shed Gammax

Type of Loom Airjet Loom Double Rapier Loom
RPM(for the main shaft) 1,250 600
WIR 2,650 m/min 1160 m/min
Production 6500m/day 4000m/day
Efficiency(targeted) 87% 85%
Usage For easier designs For complex designs
Attachments Dobby Dobby
Machine Width 1900mm 2200 mm

TOYOTA E SHED

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 45

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

PICANOL GAMMAX

WEAVING SECTION

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 46

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

4. WEAVING PREPARATORY

Machines Used Muruta Mahavir 4.1.

Capacity 50 spindles 120 spindles
No. of Machines 10 3
4.1.

Re-Winding
The final cones from spinning are used to rewind the yarns on perfora ted
bobbins to form soft cheeses that will be sent for winding. According to
number of packages required for sectional warping. The Murata rewinding
machines
NATIONALhave a
INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 47
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

capacity of 50 spindles and they are 10 in total. 2-3 Local Mahavir machines
can hold 120 spindles at once. A constant length of yarn is wound on all packages.

4.2. Sectional warping

Fig. 4.1
The pattern for a fabric requires yarn of specific length, number and color.
These are wound on the warp beam in this section. A creel of capacity 720
cones holds the yarns. These are drawn
through a leasing reed and
warping reed and the emerging
pattern wound on warping drum
and finally on warping beam.
There are 8 rows on the creel,
which holds the yarns according
Fig. 4.2
to the warp pattern.
For shirting, the pattern is placed alternately, i.e. 13572468 upwards. Each row
is used as layer for leasing. 7 lease are introduced in the beginning of every
section
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 48
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

and a 50% lease towards the end. The 7 lease help in sizing to separate layers
in order prevent sticking together. 50% leasing helps in drawing.
Maker VAMATEX BENNINGER
Fig. 4.2 Model No. VM 108 BEN-ERGOTRONIC
Drum Width 2500mm 2500mm
Maximum Warping Speed 800m/min 800m/min
Maximum Beaming Speed 150m/min 150m/min
▪ For precise control high speed sensor are provided.
4.2.1. Stop motion
Stop motion for Picanol Gammax Rapier looms

 Warp stop motion (castellated bar)

When the warp beam is taken to the loom for gaiting of warp, after
being threaded through drop pins, heald eye and reed dents, the
drop pins are threaded on to the slide bar. In case of a thread
break, the corresponding drop pin falls down the free movement of
the slider and slide bar is arrested thereby stopping the loom.
 Automatic pick finding
In case of a broken pick the machine stops and only the
harness
frames are brought in motion –automatically – so as to free the
broken pick, without the reed touching the beat-up line.

Stop motion for Toyota E Shed JAT 710

 Electronic warp stop motion

 Leno-selvage & waste-selvage break stop
motion
 Reflecting type weft detector (double feeler)
 LED signal lamp
Light Colour Implication

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 49

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Yellow light blinking Weft thread breakage

Yellow and red light blinking Shut down via emergency switch
Red light Mechanical fault
Red light blinking when machine is Electronic projectile detector or
working weft detector is switched off
Blue light blinking Warp thread breakage

3. Fabric designing
Arvind handles weaving consignments from most of the leading brands in
the country and its in-house brands. The Arvind Techno Park weaving unit
produces Shirting fabric in various contemporary designs such as solids, stripes
and plaid.

The designing of the fabric for in-house brands is carried out by the Textile
Design Department. Henceforth, all the fabrics follow a common route
namely, Pre Production Planning.

4. Objectives of Pre-Production Planning

 Production Method: The selection of the production method is dictated

by the Pre Production Committee, keeping in mind the feasibility of the
design and efficiency and ability of the machines available.

 Determination of Details: Assessment of the fabric in question to

establish necessary constants of the weave plan such as Ends per Inch, Picks
per Inch, pegplan, drawing, warping section, weave etc.

4.5. Safety measures

 Ear plugs: Aloom shed is bound to have extremely high levels of noise
due to INSTITUTE
NATIONAL the constant beat-up TECHNOLOGY,
OF FASHION motion, clanking of the heald
BANGALORE. shafts,50shuttle
B.F.TECH
(2013-17)
(for
 Summe r Textile Internship

shuttle looms) etc. Hence, it is absolutely mandatory for the operator to

be equipped with ear plugs to prevent permanent damage to his health.

 Shoes: To move around in the loom shed, it is absolutely imperative to

cover one’s feet thereby ensuring physical safety.

 Half sleeve clothes: Working with a loom involves a lot of activity near the
weft presenters warp thread, machine parts etc. Therefore it is advisable to
wear half sleeved clothes and avoid any sort of entanglements and
accidents, in extension.

 Cover moving machine parts: As far as possible, it is ensured that all the
moving machine parts are covered. Such as protection guard over take-
up rollers in case of a Picanol Gammax loom.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 51

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

4.6. Weaving Machine Details:

MACHINE NO. OF MAXIMUM PRODUCTION FEATURES

M/C COLOR PER DAY
WEFT
YARN

Toyota Air-jet 24 6 M/C – 6 6500 meter Working width 3400mm,

weaving loom 18 M/C – 4 6 and colours,
type positive electronic STAUBLI
dobby type 2861,
up to 16 shafts,
max RPM =800, 380V-50Hz,
1 reed.

PINACOL 24 4 400 metre Working width 3600mm,

rapier Looms 4 colours,
type max RPM = 550,
GamMax positive electronic STAUBLI
model dobby type 2861with pre-
equipped for batching motion
but without the batcher.

ECGI Electric 4 - - To suck the loose flying li

suction machine dust particles to prevent it
from sticking to the machines
and fabric.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 52

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

4.7. Product defects

 Broken pattern: Instances of wrong drawing of thread in a colour pattern

or wrong picking lead to non-continuity of a weave/design/pattern.
 Double end: Taking more ends in the heald eye leads to weaving of two or
more ends as one.
 Float: Improper shedding, slack heald shafts etc. lead to
improper
interlacement of warp and weft threads over a certain area.
 Gout: Foreign matter (such as lint or waste) accidentally gets woven into
the
fabric.
 Hole, Cut or Tear: These occur for a variety of reason and end up rupturing
the fabric.
 Missing ends: Despite being equipped with warp stop motions, this defect
is
observed due to reasons such as dirty electro bars and
operator’s inattentiveness.
4.8. Problem faced

In weaving room, relative humidity, has a great impact on the performance of the
looms. The optimal level of temperature and
humidity over the machines, i.e. the warp,
is generally not reached, because the
sources of heat within the weaving
machine disturb the climatic condition.
Numerous yarn by the dust, lint and fiber
breaks are caused
Fig. 4.3 Removal of extra
accumulation.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 53

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

PROCESSING SECTION

5. PROCESSING UNIT

1. OBJECTIVE

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 54

(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

The aim of preparatory wet processing is to treat the goods by standard

procedures so that they are brought to a state in which they can be dyed, printed
and finished without showing any fault on fabric.

5.2. GREY FABRIC INSPECTION

In Arvind mills Grey fabric inspection is done through the 4 point system.

Length of defect Demerit points

3 inches or less 1
More than 3 inches but not more than 6 inches 2
More than 6 inches but not more than 9 inches 3
More than 9 inches 4

Fig. 5.1

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 55

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Fig. 5.2

5.2.1. Fabric is classified as:

 Grade A: less than 3 defects per 100

m

 Grade B: 3 - 6 defects per 100 m

 Grade C: more than 6 defects per 100

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 56

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

5.2.2. Acceptable tolerance:

 28 points per 100 sq. yd. for each
individual roll.
 20 points per 100 sq.yd for
average
of rolls inspected.
 More defects are found in dobby
weave, heavy varieties, etc
Fig. 5.3
 If more than 4 points are detected/ 100m of fabric then it is reported to
the weaving section and sent further for mending.
 8 machines are used for initial checking but 5 machines are used
for rechecking.
 After initial checking, the fabric is sent to the storage area.

OTHER INFORMATION

There are 8 inspection machines and total 3500 metre of fabric is inspected on
one machine in one day. That means total 28 thousand of fabric is inspected in one
day. Also efficiency of inspection system is 90%.

5.3. MENDING
The fabric is bought from the storage area for mending. After mending, the
fabric is sent back to the storage area and then sent for re-checking. After
mending of the fabric the fabric is sent forbatching. There are 3 mending machines
in the industry.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 57

(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

4. BATCHING
After mending, fabric is sewn end to
end and then batched. Spec sheets are
sent to the batching in charge, wherein
it is mentioned how many meters of
what fabric needs to be rolled together
in one package. After batching, the
fabric is sent for singeing.
Fig. 5.4

5. SINGEING
Singeing is a process applied to both yarns and fabrics to produce an even
surface by burning off projecting fibres, yarn ends, and fuzz. This is
accomplished by passing the fibre or yarn over a gas flame or heated copper
plates at a speed sufficient to burn away the protruding material without
scorching or burning the yarn or fabric.

Fig. 5.5 Singeing

 Singeing machine used: OSTHOFF-SENGE Model – BZ/3.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 58

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 CNG is used for burning the protruding fibres, yarn ends and fuzz.

 Flames are applied perpendicular to the fabric.

 Pressure gauge in the machine controls the pressure.

 Maximum Speed of the machine is 100 m/min.

 In a shift i.e. of 8 hours, 30,000m of fabric is singed.

 The efficiency of the machine is 85%.

 A roller with brushes removes the fibres on selvedge and small

protruding fibres. A suction pump takes these fibres and pumps them into
an air bag. This bag needs to be changed every week.

 There are two burners, the machine operates at 10000c and works at 1 m/s.

 Special rubberized rollers are used for quenching. Fabric takes 4 seconds
to traverse from burners to these quenching rollers. Till this time
the temperature of the fabric lowers down to 700 C. These rollers further
cool the cellulosic fibre.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 59

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Arvind mills Ltd uses Gas singeing due to following reasons:

 Efficient singeing
 No local cooling problems
 No hardness is produced on fabric surface.

5.5.1. STEPS INVOLVED IN SINGEING

 The fabric passes through a tension unit with guide rollers.
 Then fabric passes through pre-brushing unit which removes dirt/dust,
lint and loose fibres from the fabric.
 After pre-brushing, the fabric enters into the singeing chamber.
 Adjustable water-cooled rollers are used to obtain different fabric/flame
positions, which permit desired degree of singeing effect.
 A Carburettor or air/gas mixer allows automatic mixing of gas with air
to control the intensity of the singeing flame.
 After passing over the flames, the fabric passes through (optional)
steam quenching unit.

5.6. DESIZING

Desizing is done for the fabrics made from cotton or blends, the warp threads are
coated with an adhesive substance known as 'size‘ to prevent the threads
breaking during weaving. Although many different compounds have been
used to size fabrics, starch and its derivatives have been the most common
sizing agent. After weaving, the size must be removed again in order to prepare
the fabric for dyeing and finishing.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 60

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

This process (desizing) must be carried out by treating the fabric with chemicals
such as acids, alkali or oxidising agents. However starch breaking
enzymes (amylases) are preferred for desizing due to their high efficiency
and specific action. Amylases bring about complete removal of the size without
any harmful effects on the fabric. Another benefit of enzymes compared to
strong chemicals mentioned above is that enzymes are environment friendly.
The unit visited took enzymatic desizing into practice and used the same m/c as
for singeing.

Fig 5.6 desizing

5.6.1. STEPS INVOLVED

 Wetting out with a suitable wetting agent.

 Steeping the temperature for affecting the swelling and softening of the
size paste.
 Rinsing thoroughly in water.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 61
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

5.6.2. CHEMICALS USED

 DMCP (surfactant agent) - [Deoxycytidine monophosphate]

 Pulkozyme

 MFB (wetting agent)

The fabric is desized, and then washed.

 Temperature = 550c

 Efficiency of the machine = 85%

 Usage of Calcium and Magnesium causes problems.

 Chelating agent is used which forms a complex with the size present in
the fabric, mixes in water and gets drained off.

 This wet fabric is wound on batching rollers.

 These rollers are rotated for 8 hours so that the enzyme can react with
the size present on the fabric.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 62

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

5.6.3. FEATURES:

 An exhaust fan removes fluffs, fumes, dust collected by brush & exits
through a ventilation hood.
 Mixture of C.N.G. (3O to 35 %) and air (65 to 70 %) is supplied at
constant pressure.
 Double burner flame system which automatically controls the flame
height, width and temperature.
 Cool water is supplied to make cool the burner.
 Water & Chemicals for desizing is supplied to quenching chamber from
tanks through pipes.

5.6.4. FAULTS

 There is a chance of scorching if flame height is not maintained properly.

 Stopping of machine may cause heat bars on the fabric.

 Selvedge may burn due to extra hairiness.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 63

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

5.7. WASHING

Fig. 5.7
 Machine used: INJECTA MACHINE, BENNINGER (GERMANY)
 Efficiency- 85-87%

5.7.1. PROCESS

 The fabric is dipped in water for pre-wetting at 600C (forms slurry).

 Then the fabric is passed through steam (pulpy).
 Washing with hot water at 900C through jet.
 Then the fabric is washed again at 950C.
 Washing speed for piece dyed and white fabric is 50 m/min.
 Washing speed for yarn dyed fabric is 80 m/min

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 64

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

5.8. MERCERISING

Mercerising can be done at different stages during the pre-treatment process.

This could be after Desizing or after Scouring or after Bleaching. When done
after desize-washing, it induces maximum luster onto the fabric.
However, contamination of dye can occur, which reduces life of the caustic lye.
High degree of whiteness can be achieved if the bleaching process is done after
mercerisation. Mercerisation after scouring and bleaching prevents contamination
of caustic dye but effects the whiteness and absorbency. Mercerising can be
done either on wet fabric with a dye concentration controller or on dry fabrics.
Cold Mercerising is strictly done below 20 degree C as there are few chances
of hydrolization of color.

Fig. 5.8

250 gpl (grams per litre) caustic soda is applied and kept for 45 sec.
Liquid ammonia (NH3) is used in mercerization (NH3 becomes liquid at -
33degree Celsius) Liquid ammonia treatment is a highly effective and well
controlled alternative to caustic soda mercerisation, but high capital cost of
theNATIONAL
necessaryINSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 65
(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

equipment for recovery and reuse of the ammonia as well as the application
steps limits the adoption of this sophisticated approach more widely. The effect of
liquid ammonia treatment on the dyeing of the cotton depends on the
ammonia is removed. As with mercerising treated yarns and fabrics appear more
deeply dyed than untreated material having the same amount of the dye present.
There are total 3 machines for mercerization.

5.8.1. PURPOSE BEHIND MERCERIZING

Mercerising enhances –

 Dimensional stability
 Improves strength
 Absorbency
 Dye uptake and lustre,
 Parallelisation of fibres
 Sphering of fibres.

5.8.2. MACHINES USED

 Kyoto
▪ Clip mercerizer
▪ High speed mercerization machine
▪ 72 meters long
▪ Speed 80 m/min

 Benninger
▪ Computerized control
▪ Trough capacity(for caustic)- 1100
liters
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 66
(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

▪ After 1 hour and 45 minutes 250 liters of caustic is drained

off automatically to change the concentration of the liquor
(concentration due to impurities).

5.8.3. Cold mercerization

In Arvind cold mercerization is preferred and taken into practice. Cold

mercerization dimensionally stabilizes warp and weft. It changes cellulose 1
to cellulose 2. The fabric is washed off with low gel caustic (50 – 80 gpl) and
washed with hot water at 900C and then washed with the cold water. Speed of the
machine is maintained at 30-50 m/min and the efficiency of the machine is 90%.

5.9. BLEACHING

(i) Oxidative bleaching:

Generally oxidative bleaching is carried out using sodium hypochlorite
(NaOCl) or hydrogen peroxide. Natural fibres like cotton are
bleached with oxidative methods.

(ii) Reductive bleaching:

Reductive method of bleaching is done with sodium hydrosulphite,
a
powerful reducing agent. Fibers like polyamide, Polyacrylics
and Polyacetates can be bleached using reductive bleaching technology.
1. MACHINE USED

1. BENNINGER (GERMANY)

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 67

(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

 No. of machines – 1
 Speed – 58 m / min
 Trough capacity – 116 litres of liquor
 Liquor contains -
▪ Caustic

▪ Peroxide

▪ Wetting agent

▪ Stabilizer

Fig. 5.9 Beinninger CBR

Wetting of fabric

Bleaching

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 68

Washing with plain water (2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Washing with acetic acid

Number of
Machine name
machines
Batching machine 2
Singeing and desizing machine 1
Injecta washer 1
Continuous bleaching range 1
Mercerizing machine 3
Jumbo jigger 2
Drying machine 1
Soaping machine 1

Table 5: Types and number of machines in the preparatory unit

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 69

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

DYEING SECTION

6. DYEING UNIT
1. DYEING

Dyeing is the process which provides uniform single colouration throughout

the surface of the textile material. Dyeing can be classified into various
categories on the basis of parameters such as textile material being dyed and
whether batched or continuous. Given below is a description of all the dyeing
processes which were going on in the unit during the visit.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 70

(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

6.2. YARN DYEING

Dyeing, if done after the fiber has been spun into grey yarn, is described as
yarn dyeing. Fabric made of dyed yarns is called yarn dyed fabric.
Yarn dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in color. Yarn dyed fabrics intended
for laundering must be quite colorfast, or bleeding could occur. The primary
reason for dyeing in
the yarn form is
to
create
interesting
checks, stripes,
and plaids with
different –
colored yarns in
the weaving
process.
F
i
g
.

6
.
1

 Method employed: Package dyeing under high temperature and

high pressure

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 71

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 Machine used: THEN

 Number of machines: 87

 Capacity: 18 tons/day

Fig. 6.2
6.3. PACKAGE DYEING
MACHINES

In these enclosed machines where dyeing under pressure can take place, the
dye- liquor is circulated through wound packages of yarn until the dye is
evenly exhausted.
The yarn is wound onto perforated tubes or springs, and the packages are
classified
according to count and formed are then mounted onto a perforated rod (spindle)
or tube. After loading, the carrier is dropped into a seating in the dyeing tank by
the means of overhead crane, through which the dye-liquor is circulated.
The dye-liquor is pumped through the packages in either direction,
according to need.
In dyeing warp yarns, a single perforated cylinder of the yarns fits into the
seating of the dye tank.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 72

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Fig. 6.3

Packages that are too loosely wound may collapse during the dyeing
process. However, packages that are too tightly wound may interfere with the
circulation of the dye-liquor. In any case, the packages must be wound as
uniformly as possible.

6.4. AUTOLAB-DISPENSER

There is a stock of primary dye solutions that can be mixed in specific

proportions to get any shade. This is a computerized process and requires little
intervention manually.
To prepare dye solutions of accurate and specific concentration, this is helpful. A
beaker is placed in which some quantity of water is filled. The range of dye
that can be added is shown on the screen. Then it is taken and agitated for
homogenous mixing. The beaker is replaced and desired concentration entered
in the system. Water is filled to achieve that concentration.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 73
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Yarn is weighed and tagged to be put into the solution for dyeing. Then the yarn
or the fabric swatch is treated with dye for required amount of temperature and
time. The machines which are used are:

Turbomat: its capacity is minimum 70gms.

Spectra dye: its capacity is 7. 5gms

Infrared colour: its capacity is 20gms

Fig. 6.4

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 74

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

6.5. PARTS OF DYEING MACHINE

The dyeing machine consists of:

Microprocessor
It depends on light, medium, dark, reactive dyes. All details are feeded onto
the processor and locked, as per the requirement one program is used.

Closing Tank
In this chemicals are added as per the approved recipe and a tube
passes from this tank to main tank through which dye liquor passes through.

Main tank
It’s the main tank in which carrier is been put.

 First they put the carriage in the main tank in which 900 liters of
water is filled.
 Then chemical is put into chamber which later goes to closing tank.
 Programming done according to chemicals, water, temperature.
 Water coming out from bottom of spindle and spreads out.
 There are mainly two stages: in–out and out-in
 7-8 hrs is taken for dyeing 1 carrier.
 Capacity is 18 tons/day

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 75

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Fig. 6.5 Dummy Carriers

Dummy Carriers
In same vessel we can have different capacity. There are carriers known as dummy
carriers. These carriers consist of dummy spindles. Dummy spindles are
plain rod which doesn’t have holes in them so that when dyeing process
takes place water is not wasted in and out through these spindles. So
these rods block the movement of water in and out through the spindle.

6.6. R.F. DRYER (RADIO FREQUENCY DRYER)

After dyeing process almost double amount of water is present inside the
package. Then water comes down due to gravity. For the remnant dyeing liquor, a
radio frequency dryer is put to use.
In this dryer machine electrodes are present, which create an electromagnetic
field.
H+ and O- polar molecules are produced. They start vibrating and create
energy. Therefore H+ an O- get split. In this temperature has to
be controlled which is 80˚C and also height between these electrodes
and yarns have to be maintained.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 76

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

It basically involves placement of dyed packages on a conveyer belt which

moves at a speed of 9.2 m/hour. The excess dyeing liquor is removed through the
process mentioned above.
After the drying process, the yarn packages are winded in a cone, like 2 yarn
packages are
winded in one cone to check forthe shade variation among different yarn packages.

TYPES OF DEFECTS
1. Shade matching
2. Shade levelling

6.7. CARRIERS
There are around 200 carriers available and minimum being 10 spindles.
Maximum of 25 carriers can be put on a machine with at least 10 spindles on
1 carrier. Their height is around 180cm.

6.7.1. TYPES OF CARRIERS

SPRING

 1.2 kg packages.
 These carriers are compressed by 12-15%.
 The weight of these carriers is 160-168
grams.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 77

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

PLASTIC TUBE

 945 g packages
 The weight of these carriers is 135-140 grams.

Carriers

AFTER TREATMENT:
Hot wash: 80˚C for 10 minutes.
Soaping chemical: wash of rd (0.5gpl upto 0.2%
Tan: depth) Metaxiladw (0.7gpl 0.21 to
0.5%)
8. FABRIC DYEING

1. JET DYEING

This is the most modern machine used for the dyeing of polyester using
disperse dyes. In this machine the cloth is dyed in rope form which is the main
disadvantage of the machine.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 78

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

In this machine, the dye tank contains disperse dye, dispersing agent,
leveling agent and acetic acid. The solution is filled up in the dye tank and it
reaches the heat exchanger where the solution will be heated which then
passed on to the centrifugal pump and then to the filter chamber. Therefore, this
machine made use of HTHP dyeing method.
The solution is filtered and reaches a tubular chamber. Here the material to be dyed
will be loaded and the winch is rotated, so that the material is also rotated.
Again the dye liquor reaches the heat exchanger and the operation is repeated for
20 to 30 minutes at 135˚C. Then the dye bath is cooled down, after the material is
taken out. Metering wheel is also fixed on winch by external electronic unit. Its
purpose is to record the speed of the fabric. The thermometer, pressure gauge is
also fixed in the side of the machine to note the temperature and pressure under
working.
However, in the plant visited, the jet dyeing machine was not put to use due to
the
fact that it dyes the fabric in rope form, leaving it crinkled and its extremely
low capacity of 1000m/batch.

6.8.2. ADVANTAGES OF JET DYEING MACHINE

 Dyeing time is short compared to beam dyeing.

 Production is high compared to beam dyeing machine.

6.8.3. DISADVANTAGES JET DYEING MACHINE

 Cloth is dyed in rope form

 Risk of entanglement
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 79
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 Chance for crease formation

6.9. CONTINUOUS DYEING

In continuous dyeing, there is a sequence of machinery chambers where-in the

well prepared textile material is impregnated with the dye solution in the first
section and then passed into the fixation chamber and/ or any other chemical bath
used for fixation. Then the material is washed off and finally dried to complete the
process. Continuous dyeing is ideal and economical when a large amount of textile
must be dyed to the same shade.

 Machine used: Ben Dry

 Number of machines: 1
 Dye used: Reactive dye > VAT dye (in order of preference)

1. PROCESS

After a series of various rollers, the grey fabric is passed through a trough of
dye stuff. After this comes in picture the process of chemical fixation. After
being padded with sodium silicate (in an alkaline medium i.e. soda ash), the
fabric is passed through steam chambers for chemical fixation. Further it is
padded with CH3COOH to neutralize the soda ash and sodium silicate. Next
step involves passing the fabric through an Infra-Red heater for mechanical
fixation of the dye and drying up the fabric.

2. SHADE MANAGEMENT

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 80

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Once a sample batch is developed, the following method is applied to

control center to selvedge variation and shade variation between rolls.

Center to selvedge variation check

This process takes care of shade variation within the roll. The fabric is divided
into 4 sections width wise as shown below:

1 2 3 4

Further these pieces are cut and rearranged as shown

below:

3 1 4 2

Once the pieces are arranged as shown in the diagram, if there is any center
to selvedge shade variation, it becomes evident instantly. Remedial measures
are taken immediately.

PROBLEM

The jet dyeing machine was left inutile due to low ROI and hence, in
extension, poor productivity.

SOLUTION

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 81

(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

It was resolved by putting the same machine to use for smaller

consignments which required crinkle effect. It is now also used for desizing.

QUALITY
ASSURANCE

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 82

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

7. QUALITY ASSURANCE
1. TRADITIONAL VIEW

Traditionally quality assurance was looked as if a post-mortem report where in

the yarn and the fabric was checked for the quality and standards as per required
by the customer. A proper policing was kept on what has been done and what
is to be done.
Modern view:
In the modern day quality assurance has a wider scope and it includes
activities
like process ownership and calibration where in the department ownership is
given to a person and it becomes his/ her duty to deal with it in the most efficient
manner. QA Lab is accredited by Marks & Spencers, Levi’s, L L Bean, Next,
Gap Inc, Invista (For Lycra Testing), Liz Claiborne (Under Process)

Fig 7.3

Fig 7.1 Fig 7.2

NATIONA L INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BAN GALORE. B. F.TECH
(2013-17)
83
 Summe r Textile Internship

2. QUALITY ASSURANCE LABS

1. COTTON LABORATORY:
Cotton is held for the 70% cost of the fabric cost only and hence becomes a
major factor which if controlled will add maximum contribution to the strength of
Arvind mills.
The coefficient of variance is calculated for the width, diameter and hairiness
of
the fibre. The machine used for this purpose is USTER TESTER 5.the fibre is
passed at a speed of 400m/min and the variance is hence calculated. The
variance is calculated against international or the preset Arvind standards.
The length, weight and the exact count of the fibre is also calculated and
the
CASCADE machine is used for this purpose which ensured the right thing at
the right time as per customer demands.

2. PHYSICAL TESTING LABORATORY

This testing happens at the yarn manufacturing stage and the yarn is tested for its
1. Length
2. Elongation
3. Elasticity
The yarn should be tested in a way so as to know whether the yarn can take all
the loadings or not and if yes to what extent can it take.
This helps in deciding what processes the yarn can face and what effects cab
be
deduced.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 84

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Single yarn strength and its elongations is measured using the

USTER TENSORPAID 3 machine which is the most trusted name in the field
and comes from Switzerland.
INSTRON 4465 is used to check the tensile strength of the fibre and the
tear strength is also calculated in grams.
For all the above written testing’s the standard lab conditions are made at a
temperature of 60+/-
2 F and the humidity level is maintained at 65%+/-2%
Factors like stretchablilty skew and shrinkage are tested after marking is
done
followed by three washings of the fabric; the fabric is tonned to the
environment after keeping it in the standard environment.

7.2.3. CHEMICAL TESTING LABORATORY:

In the chemical laboratory they

check all the fuels, dyes, and all the
chemicals that are used in the
production process. They even
check the denim if it is washed
with bleach how much it fades the
colour. They try different process
like how the denim would react in
different conditions like in case of Fig. 7.4
perspiration, salt water, normal water, in extreme temperature.

7.2.4. COLOUR QUEST LABORATORY:

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 85

(2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

In the colour quest they try to find out the different shades and they see to it
that after the washing and drying process does the shade match the requirement
of the customer or not.

5. CALIBRATION LABORATORY:

Calibration is a specialized measurement process where in one compares test

and measuring instruments/ equipments of unknown status to well defined
standards of greater accuracy in order to detect/eliminate error by adjustments
& report any variation in accuracy capability.

6. CALIBRATION ACTIVITY

Calibration through in – house facility

93% Calibration through out - side
agencies 7%

7. CALIBRATION FACILITY AT
CALIBRATION
LABORATORY

Parameters and Instruments used for its

calibration

NATIONAL INSTITUTE
Temperature OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 86
(2013-17)
Mercury thermometer, temperature indicator & controllers, temperature switches,
temperature gauges, temperature transmitters.
 Summe r Textile Internship

Pressure
Pressure gauge, vacuum gauge, pressure transmitter, pressure switch.

Mass
Analytical weighing balance AC/OC voltage, AC/DC current, single phase power,
frequency, resistance capacitance, conductance, logic pulses, logic levels.
Digital& analogue amateur, millimeters, panel meters, frequency meters.

Dimensional
Measure tape, steel scale, Vernier capture, micro meter, dial gauge.

Gas lab instruments

Lab instruments used for quality conformance tests & physical testing lab
& chemical testing lab.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 87

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Fig. 7.5

3. HVI SPECTRUM (High Volume

Instrument) – ZELLWEGER USTER

This is a prime instrument, which fulfills all the requirements and measures
the different parameters for cotton to be used in production. The different
criteria, which it detects, are as follows:

 length of the fiber

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 88

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 uniformity in the length

 strength of the fiber

 elongation or elastic behavior of the Fig. 7.6

fiber
 short fiber length (no. of fibers lesser than ½”)

 Rd: the color i.e. the degree of yellowness or whiteness of the fibers.

 the percentage of coarseness and fineness of the fiber i.e.

the micronaire measurement.

Around 150-200 gms of fibers are taken for testing.

4. FIBRO SAMPLER- HVI 900

This is a semi-operated machine and measures all parameters except color. A

comb is used to take out ‘fiber beard’, which is used to feed the machine.

5. USTER MDTA 3

This is used to test impurities in cotton. 10-100 g of fiber is taken and the
output includes clean cotton, micro dust and major impurities. The clean cotton
serves as a standard for testing efficiency of carded sliver.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 89

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

6. YARN FAULT-TESTING

1. CLASSIMAT:
This instrument tests faults in the yarn. 100 km of yarn can be tested at once.
The thick and thin, long and short areas of the yarn are detected and
categorized according to the severity. In a graph, A1, B1, C1…denotes the length
of the fault, while A1, A2, A3…denotes the mass of the yarn which in turn is
a measure of thickness. If the resultant value falls under E, it is a long and thick
area. F and G of the graph show thin and long areas.

2. USTER TENSOJET:
This is a single yarn strength-testing instrument. It runs at a speed of 400 m
per min. 500 readings are taken each out of 10 packages of one sample. It
gives the values in unit of force/ count = g/tex. Elongation of the yarn is also
measured.
3. USTER UNEVENESS TESTER:
This tests and reads thick places (+50%), thin places (-50%) and neps (200%). At
a speed of 400m/min, yarn from 10 packages is tested. The Unevenness %
and hairiness as a sum of total hair lengths are obtained At stages of ring
winding, roving, cone winding etc tests are conducted many times a week
to ensure consistency. This is in-process checking.

4. TWIST TESTER:
According to the required specifications twist of the yarn is measured in this
which involves different methods for single, doubled and open end yarn.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 90

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Fig. 7.7
5. AFIS (ADVANCED FIBER INFORMATION SYSTEM):
An in process testing system for detecting neps, length, micronaire till
roving stage.

6. WRAP BLOCK:
It is used to measure the hank of the feeding material to decide the setting for
the next process

7. YARN BOARD WINDER:

Is done when required. Here, the yarn is wound on black or white board
according to its own color and analyzed subjectively for slubs.

8. ELECTRONIC LEA STRENGTH TESTER:

The lea is subjected to pulling force by means of clamps and breaking strength
is tested. The value obtained is CSP (count strength product).

9. HAIRINESS TESTER:
On the basis of optical principle, the hairiness is measured as the number of
hairs per unit length
for 24 mm.
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 91
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

7.7. WRINKLE TESTER:

To determine a fabric's ability to recover after

wrinkling under a predetermined load for a set
period of time. Set of 3-D plastic replicas are
available to grade fabrics.
Fig. 7.8

7.8. CROCKMETER
To determine the color fastness of dyed or printed
textiles or leather, this test is used for the
determination of color fastness against rubbing,
either under dry or under wet conditions.

Fig. 7.9

7.9. Pilling Resistance Tester

Determines the resistance to the formation of pills and other related
surface changes of textile fabrics using the random tumble pilling tester.

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 92

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 Specimens are laundered 3 times and

then conditioned in atmospheric
conditions for textiles
 The edges of 3 4”x4” squares cut on the
bias are sealed with glue and allowed
to dry
 The 3 specimens are placed in the
pilling
chamber along with 25mg of gray-dyed
cotton fiber and tumbled for 30
minutes
 The specimens are evaluated in a
viewing
Fig.
apparatus against photographic
standards (ASTM ADJD 3512) or in
7.10. TEARING TESTER
house fabric standards.

Elmendorf Tearing Tester. To determine the ballistic

tearing strength of textiles, paper or board.
Range from 8000 to 64000 Millinewtons with
suitable pendulum. Pendulums not included.

Fig.

Fig. 7.8
7.11. ABRASION AND PILLING TESTER

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 93

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Fig.

To determine the abrasion and pilling resistance of all kinds of textile

structures. Samples are rubbed against known abradents at low pressures and in
continuously
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 94
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

changing directions and the amount of abrasion or pilling is compared

against standard parameters.

Fig. 7.9

ENVIRONMENTAL
FACTORS

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 95

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

8. ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS AT ARVIND

 Optimizing usage of cotton, energy, chemicals & water.

 Adopting preventive strategies to reduce the generation of effluents, waste

& air emissions.

 Maintaining a safe working environment.

 Increasing the green cover.

 Training employees on environmental issues

8.1. AIR POLLUTION CONTROL

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 96

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Arvind ltd. has switched from liquid fuel to natural gas for all their heating
& steam requirements in order to avoid air pollution.

8.2. WATER TREATMENT

Arvind ltd. also possess chemical, biological treatment facilities to treat

1000m/day of effluents to meet the pollution control board norms.

8.3. ACCREDITATIONS

 “Global organic textile standards”, control union certifications,

the Netherlands, for processing of fibres from certified organic agriculture.
 ISO-17025 NABL – national accreditation board for laboratories,
Delhi, India, for chemical & mechanical disciplines of testing.
 Premier accreditation scheme by marks & Spencer, test methods and
conditions set forth, laboratory, shirting division business, the Arvind
mills ltd.
 Liz claiborne int’l ltd., testing audit performance, laboratory, shirting
business division, the Arvind mills ltd.
 “SKAL international standards for sustainable textile production”
 Labs certified by DuPont

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 97

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 ISO14000: provides environment management to help

standards organisations minimise their negative impact on the
environment.

8.4. ACCREDITED BY

 MARKS & SPENCERS

 LEVIS
 TOMMY HILFIGER
 RALPH LAUREN
 NEXT
 DUPONT
 DEBENHAMS

9. LEARNINGS

Arvind is the best platform to learn how quality and quantity is maintained at
the same time. That’s the reason we joined the mill for our first internship. We
learn a lot in our 15 days internship.

Ring dying process in denim was the best part of our learning as it was the
process of great curiosity. Our mentor told and explain the whole process and
clarified on the the process. Also we saw the only machine in Asia that is
“cone to beam converter”. It converts the cone to beam and vice-versa. So
we can use this machine with every machine and can produce output in any type
of format.

Also we came to know about some new finishing techniques like arrow
finish which is given to provide softness to fabric. We got the opportunity to see
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 98
the latest (2013-17)
 Su mmer Textile Internship

technology machines in the mill like drawing and carding machines which is
able to reduce the manpower upto 8 persons per machine.

Our whole internship was full of learning and it teaches us how quality
is preserved with quantity.

We got chance to an industry full of dedicated workers.

10. ARVIND LIMITED – REVIEW NOTE

2014-15
Agenda:
 Financial Performance: Consolidated

 Financial Performance: Standalone

 Business Analysis

Financial Performance: Q4 2014-15

Consolidated revenue growth of 8% and PAT growth of 3%

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 99

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Business Highlights: Q4 2014-15

Moderate top-line growth with moderated bottom-line due to higher
tax

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 100

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Key Highlights:

Revenue growth of 8% achieved due to

 17% top-line growth in Brands & Retail
 16% top-line growth in Garments

PBT growth of 20%, PAT growth 3% over Q4 FY14

 Despite healthy growth in PBT for the year, the PAT growth was muted
due to higher tax

Exceptional items:
 Rs. 26 crores for retrenchment of 960 workers
 Rs. 22 crores for settlement of legal dispute of USPA brand with Polo
Ralph Lauren

Financial Performance: FY 2014-15

Revenue growth of 14% and PAT growth of 7%

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 101

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Business Highlights: FY 2014-

15
Strong top-line
NATIONAL & bottom-line
INSTITUTE growth
OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 102
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

Key Highlights

Revenue growth of 14% achieved due to

 23% top-line growth of Brands & Retail
 6% top-line growth of Textiles

EBIDTA margin % slightly lower
 Higher weightage of Brand & Retail Business
 Lower textile margin

PBT growth of 18% : PAT growth of 7%

 PAT growth lower at 7% due to higher tax

Exceptional items :
 Rs.29 crores for retrenchment of 1012 workers
 Rs. 22 crores for settlement of legal dispute of USPA brand with Polo
Ralph Lauren
Margin moderated in both key business segments in
FY 2014-15
Quarterly margins lower than LY due to Forex loss and Mega Mart
Performance
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 103
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

EBIDTA margin of textile business lower due losses incurred in two garments
manufacturing plants which commenced commercial production in Q4.

Textiles Business: Revenue Mix in FY2014-15

Textile revenue grew by 6 %

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 104

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

 Led by 8 % growth
Woven fabrics

 6 % growth in
garments

 2 % growth in
Denim

 1 0 % growth on a
smaller base for the
voiles business

Volume growth: Woven volume growth at 8 % :

Denim at 1 %

Key Parameters: FY2014-1 5 – Textiles

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 105

(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

11. ANNEXURES
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 106
(2013-17)
 Summe r Textile Internship

References:

 Images given by Mr Subhanish Malhotra, Senior H.R. Manager, Arvind Limited,

Santej.
 Facts and other data provided by different Department Supervisors: Mr.Kabir
Sarosh (Processing Department Supervisor) and Mr. Rajesh Tiwari (Weaving
Department Supervisor).
 www.arvindmills.com
 http://www.arvindmills.com/pdf/shareholding/2013/Review%20Note
%20Q4%2012-13.pdf
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arvind_Mills

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BANGALORE. B.F.TECH 107

(2013-17)