CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS

From Quarter 3 Module 1

Prepared by: Farrah G. Madrio

 OBJECTIVES:
Knowledge Identify different cosmetics ingredients and their
functions;

Skills Design a cosmetic product with its possible chemical ingredients;

Attitudes Realize the importance of using cosmetics in promoting

proper and healthy hygiene;

21st Century Develop critical thinking , collaboration and good

Skills communication in identifying and designing different
cosmetics based on its ingredients and functions.
__?___
 HOW MUCH YOU KNOW?

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The Chemistry of Cosmetics .
Any cosmetic products available in the market are required by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to have
its INCI labels. INCI stands for “International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients,” a system of names for
ingredients, botanicals, and chemicals used to Reading INCI or “International Nomenclature of Cosmetic
Ingredients” manufacture cosmetic products. Cosmetic labels also include the product’s shelf life, testing
procedure, manufacturer, distributor, and other properties. However, most consumers often forget to read the
cosmetic labels and know little to nothing about products that they are using on their bodies. Some consumers
based their judgments and choices on advertisements and not on what they can see on the cosmetic labels. These
are the reasons why there are some reported cases of allergic reactions and poisoning because of the improper
usage of the products. Understanding chemical ingredients and reading labels will help you make a better-
informed decision whenever purchasing safe cosmetic products.

Key questions:

1. Do you read what is written on cosmetics packaging and labels?

2. What are the pieces of information you can find on cosmetics’ packaging and labels?

3. What is the importance of reading cosmetic labels?

 HOW DO CHEMISTS KNOW WHAT TO PUT
INTO A FORMULA TO CREATE A COSMETIC
PRODUCT? IF WE WOULD TRY TO FORMULATE
COSMETIC PRODUCTS, WE NEED TO CONSIDER
THE DIFFERENT INGREDIENTS AND THEIR
RESPECTIVE FUNCTIONS.

THERE ARE FOUR MAIN CATEGORIES OF INGREDIENTS

AMONG COSMETICS PRODUCTS:
a. Functional Ingredients – these are the main ingredients chosen to
perform the primary function of the cosmetic product.
b. Structural Ingredients – provide the structure and form of the product
c. Supportive ingredients – improve the stability and shelf life of the
product
d. Added Extra – added in a small amount to add consumer acceptance
and to make the product more marketable
 2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner
Functional Ingredients
Surfactants specifically cleansing agent - to cleanse the hair
Hair conditioning agents - to perform its second function
Structural Ingredients
Viscosity Increasing Agent – increases the thickness
Solvents – dissolve all the ingredients
Supportive ingredients
Chelating agent – binds active ingredients to hard water and makes the foam stable
pH Adjuster – to control the pH level
Preservatives – lengthen the shelf life of the product
Added Extra
Fragrance – adds desirable scent
Colorant – to obtain a presentable color of the product
Opacifying Agent – makes the shampoo pearlescent
To complete a cosmetic formulation, you should be
familiar with the different cosmetic ingredients used to
make a product. Each cosmetic ingredient plays a vital
function in the formulation.
a.Abrasives - These are used to remove skin
cells or plaque from teeth through friction.
Examples:
• Body exfoliants/scrubs – oat kernel meal, salt,
sugar, walnut shell powder, hydrogenated jojoba wax
• Toothpaste abrasives – silica, sodium bicarbonate
b. Antioxidants
- They reduce oxidation and rancidity from occurring over time.
- They act as supportive ingredients to lengthen the shelf life of the
product.
- They are marketed as skin nurturers.
Examples:
• Vitamins – tocopherol (Vitamin E)
• Plant extracts – green tea leaf extract, chamomile flower
extract, rosemary leaf extract, and grape seed extract
c. Chelating Agents
- They are also known as sequestrants.
- They help improve the product’s stability by binding metal ions
that may be present in other raw materials.
- They are essential in foaming products as they bind ions in hard
water and prevent deterioration of the foam.

Examples: Citric acid, Disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid

(EDTA) and Tetrasodium ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
(EDTA)
d. Colorants
- These are used to give color to a product or the
skin. - Most of the colorants are synthetically made.

Examples: Acid Green, Basic Yellow, Iron oxide

red, and Chromium oxide green
e. Cosmetic Astringents
- They induce a tightening and toning effect on the
skin.
- They are commonly found in skin toner,
astringents, and aftershave lotion
Examples: Alcohols and Witch hazel extract
f. Emulsion Stabilizer
- It stabilizes the emulsion once formed and
prevents the separation of oil and water in the
emulsion.
- It also serves as a thickening agent.
Examples: Xanthan gum, Cellulose gum,
Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates, alkyl acrylate
cross polymer, and carbomer
g. Exfoliants
- They remove dead skin cell layers by dissolving
intracellular “cement” holding surface skin cells
together.
- They are usually found in skin whitening or skin
peel products in the presence of low pH.
Examples: Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, and Salicylic
acid
h. Fragrance
- This is used to enhance the
products’ smell or to mask
undesirable odors/scents.
Examples: Essential oils
i. Hair Conditioning Agents
- These are used to condition and improve the hair’s appearance,
gloss, and shine while facilitating styling and reducing the static
of the hair.
- They improve the texture of the hair that has been dried through
styling, chemical exposure, or environmental drying.
- Examples: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,
Behentrimonium methosulfate, Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium
chloride, Polyquaternium-7, and Quaternium-22
j. Hair Fixatives
- They are used to hold the hair in styles
in place.
- Examples: o Acrylic acid/VP cross
polymer and VP/VA copolymer
k. Opacifying Agents
- They are added to shampoos and shower gels to make
them appear pearlescent.
- They provide consumers with the impression that the
product is rich and creamy.
- Examples: Glycol Stearate, Propylene glycol stearate,
and Stearamide Monoethanolamine (MEA) stearate
l. pH Adjusters
- They adjust the pH of the product at the desired
range.
- They can be considered as Acids (lower the pH)
and bases (raise the pH).
Examples:
• Acids – citric acid, lactic acid
• Bases – potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide,
and triethanolamine
m. Preservatives
- They prevent or retard microbial growth in
cosmetics.
- Examples: Diazolidinyl urea, Methylparaben,
Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben, and Sodium
hydroxymethylglycinate
n. Skin Conditioning Agents
• Emollients- impart softness to the skin by remaining on the
upper layer of the skin and reduce flaking
Examples: Cocoglycerides, caprylic/capric triglycerides, Isopropyl
myristate, Dimethicone, and mineral oil
• Humectants – retard moisture loss by holding water within the
surface layers of the skin and drawing in moisture from the air
Examples: Glycerin, Propylene glycol, and Sodium hyaluronate
• Occlusive – blocks the evaporation of water from the surface of
the skin, keeping it moist and increasing its water content
Examples: Shea butter, Jojoba seed oil, Caprylic/capric
triglycerides, and Propylene glycol dioleate
o. Solvents
- These are liquids that are used to dissolve constituents
or act as carriers in cosmetic products.
- Examples: Water, Alcohol, Butylene glycol,
Glycerine, and Propylene glycol
p. Sunscreen Agents
- They are used to protect the skin from UV
radiation.
- Examples: Benzophenone-3, Butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl
methoxycinnamate, titanium dioxide, and zinc
oxide
●
q. Surfactants
– They are surface-active agents and have the ability to modify the surface of
the substance.
• Cleansing Agents - produce foam and clean the surface of the
skin or hair Examples: Cocoyl glucoside, Decyl glucoside,
Cocamidopropyl betaine, Sodium lauryl sulfate, Sodium methyl
cocoyl taurate, and Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate
• Emulsifying Agents – used to mix oils and water in an emulsion
Examples: Cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid, Ceteareth-20, and
PEG100 stearate
• Solubilizers – used to dissolve substances that are usually
insoluble in a continuous medium Examples: Laureth-20, PEG-
40 hydrogenated castor oil, and Polysorbate 80
r. Viscosity Increasing Agents- Aqueous
- These thicken the water-soluble components of the
product.
- Examples: Agar, Xanthan gum, Guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,
Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates, alkyl acrylate
cross polymer, and carbomer
s. Viscosity Increasing Agents -Non-Aqueous
- These thicken the oil-soluble components of
the product.
- Examples: Beeswax, Candelilla wax,
Stearalkonium bentonite, Microcrystalline
wax, and Silica dimethyl silylate.
LET US NOW PRETEND THAT YOU ARE A COSMETIC CHEMIST. SINCE
YOU ALREADY KNOW THE DIFFERENT COSMETIC INGREDIENTS AND
THEIR FUNCTIONS, COMPLETE THE DIFFERENT PRODUCTS’
COSMETIC FORMULATION BELOW.

Ex. COSMETIC PRODUCT: Toothpaste

• Functional Ingredients Toothpaste abrasive, surfactant (cleansing agent)

• Structural Ingredients A chelating agent, emulsion stabilizer, solvent, viscosity

increasing agent

• Supportive Ingredients pH adjuster, preservative,

• Added Extra Colorant, Fragrance, Opacifying agent

 3. How important is the study of the different cosmetic ingredients and their functions?

GUIDE QUESTIONS:
1. Why is it essential to compare the cosmetic ingredients
and properties of the different brands of products?
2. What are your criteria in choosing the brand of the
cosmetic products that you use?
3. How important is the study of the different cosmetic
ingredients and their functions?
ert shops in the market, he sees that the cosmetics he buys do not expire quickly. What ingredients should be included in cosmetic product labels to ensure the shelf-life and prevent microorganisms’

BRAINSTORMING ACTIVITY
ANALYZE THE FOLLOWING SITUATIONS BELOW.
THEN, ANSWER THE FOLLOWING QUESTIONS:
Group 1. Ana has had a skin problem since she was in high school. Her facial skin
is dry, and lots of acne starts to appear. What should be the main ingredients in her
skin care products to help solve her problem?
Group 2. Cristina wants to achieve a fair complexion while protecting her skin to
direct sunlight. What cosmetic ingredients should her face cream and lotion
contain?
Group 3. Whenever Robert shops in the market, he sees that the cosmetics he
buys do not expire quickly. What ingredients should be included in cosmetic
product labels to ensure the shelf-life and prevent microorganisms’ build-up in the
products?
1.Skin conditioning agent,
astringent, exfoliant
2.Exfoliant, sunscreen agent
3.Antioxidant, preservative
 Assessment

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IXcDMk2BGsB8RZjSw/viewform
 ADDITIONAL ACTIVITIES
Task:: Please make a two-paragraph essay
Cosmetics: Vitality or Vanity?
  5 4 3 2
Well developed introductory paragraph contains Introductory paragraph contains some background Introduction states the thesis but does not adequately explain Thesis and/or problem is vague or unclear.
INTRODUCTION detailed background information, a clear information and states the problem, but does not the background of the problem.  The problem is stated, but Background details are a seemingly random
Background/History explanation or definition of the problem, and a explain using details. States the thesis of the paper. lacks detail. collection of information, unclear, or not
Define the Problem thesis statement. related to the topic.
Thesis Statement

Three or more main points are present but may lack Three or more main points, but all lack development. Less than three main points, with poor
Three or more main points are well developed with detail and development in one or two. Refutation Refutation paragraph missing and/or vague. development of ideas.  Refutation missing or
MAIN POINTS supporting details. Refutation paragraph paragraph acknowledges the opposing view, but vague.
Body Paragraphs acknowledges the opposing view, and summarizes doesn't summarize points.
Refutation their main points.

Conclusion summarizes main topics.  Some Conclusion summarizes main topics, but is repetitive. No Conclusion does not adequately summarize the
Conclusion summarizes the main topics without suggestions for change are evident. suggestions for change and/or opinions are included. main points. No suggestions for change or
repeating previous sentences; writer's opinions and opinions are included.
CONCLUSION suggestions for change are logical and well thought
out.

Source material is used. All sources are accurately Source material is used, but integration may be awkward. All Lacks sources and/or sources are not accurately
Source material is smoothly integrated into the text. documented, but a few are not in the desired format. sources are accurately documented, but many are not in the documented. Format is incorrect for all sources.
WORKS CITED All sources  are accurately documented in the desired format.
desired format on the Works Cited page.

Sentence structure is correct. Punctuation and Work contains structural weaknesses and grammatical errors. Work contains multiple incorrect sentence
capitalization are correct. Sentence structure is generally correct. Some There are three or four errors in punctuation and/or structures. There are four or more errors in
MECHANICS awkward sentences do appear. There are one or two capitalization. punctuation and/or capitalization.
Sentence Structure Punctuation & Capitalization errors in punctuation and/or capitalization.
 CONGRATULATIONS!
YOU HAVE SUCCESSFULLY LEARNED
THE TOPIC ON COSMETICS CHEMISTRY.
THANK YOU AND KEEP SAFE EVERYONE.