WEAVING LECTURE: 2

TECHNIQUES AND
HISTORY, PROCESS, TYPES OF PROCESS OF TEXTILE
WEAVES, LOOMS & END USES DESIGN
CONTENTS
Definition
History
Process (Fiber spinning to Warping
on board)
Looms (History and Types)
DEFINITION
Weaving is the process of making
fabric by yarn, where two distinct sets of
yarns or threads interlace with each
other to form a fabric.
Two set of yarns:
1- Warp: Runs along the length of the
cloth.
2- Weft: Runs across over and under the
warp threads alternatively. ‘Weft’ is from
an old English word woof meaning ‘that
which is woven’.
DEFINITION
The cloth is woven on a loom,
A loom is a device used to weave cloth
and tapestry.
The basic purpose of any loom is to
hold the warp threads under tension to
facilitate the interweaving of the weft
threads.
The precise shape of the loom and its
mechanics may vary, but the basic
function is the same.
COTTAGE INDUSTRY OF
PAKISTAN
Weaving is not only a craft but a mystic
tradition in Pakistan.
Sufis used to weave and meditate with the flow.
Weaving is practiced in cottage industry, a
small scale industry where commodities are
produced at homes and labor is supplied by the
family members.
The products are hand-made, unique and
distinctive following traditional techniques and
skills handed down generation to generation.
Products: Khaddar, Khais, Durries, rugs,
carpets, susi fabric, banarsi silk and pashminas
etc.
HISTORY
Weaving is acknowledged as one of
the oldest surviving crafts in the world.
Traces back to Neolithic times –
approximately 12,000 years ago.
Even before the actual process of
weaving was discovered, the basic
principle of weaving was applied to
interlace branches and twigs to create
fences, shelters and baskets for
protection.
HISTORY
20,000 – 30,000 years ago early man
developed the first string by twisting
together plant fibers.
Preparing thin bundles of plant
material and stretching them out while
twisting them together produced a fine
string or thread.
The ability to produce string and
thread was the starting place for the
development of weaving, spinning, and
sewing.
HISTORY
In sub-continent the earliest woven
cotton cloth was found at
Mohenjodaro, Indus Valley
Civilization 5000 years old. The
production of cotton in sub-continent
has been in abundance since ages.
HISTORY
The contemporary civilizations to Indus
Valley are Egyptian and Chinese where
woven Linen (flax) and Silk have been
found.
HISTORY
By the 11th century many of the weaving
patterns used today had been invented across
the globe.
Skilled weavers developed highly specialized
cloth.
Broader looms were developed to weave
wider fabrics.
Flying Shuttle was invented in 1733 to pass
through the broad looms as manual weaving
became impossible.
Cloth weaving became a mechanized
industry with the development of steam and
water powered looms during the Industrial
Revolution (1760 – 1815).
Cottage industry weaving ceased to exist.
PROCESS OF WEAVING IN
PAKISTAN
1- Sowing: Seeds of Cotton are sown in the month of May
2- Harvesting: Harvesting of crops is done in October, November and December
3- Drying: Cotton gained from plant is dried in sunshine and is beaten with stick to make it
soft.
4- Cleaning: Seeds are separated from cotton manually and balls are prepared.
5- Spinning: Fibers are laid in parallel lines and are carded by two pointing hook-like
needles.
6- Combing: Short fibers are removed in combing, done by a metallic comb-like thing.
7- Yarn making: Yarn is made by spinning wheel that pulls out yarn/thread. It is then
twisted.
8- Winding and Dyeing: Finally yarn is bleached or dyed and wounded on spools or
bobbins ready to be woven.
PROCESS OF WEAVING IN
PAKISTAN
The warp beam: The beam on which the warp is wounded onto during warping.
The warp yarns are passed from the warp beam and over the whip beam, through the
heddle wires in the shafts of the loom, then through the reed and onto the cloth
beam.
The heddle: It is a looped cord shaped wire with a hole in the middle known as an
eye. These wires are attached to a frame of loom known as a shaft. One warp yarn
passes through one eye. The heddles keep warp at a place. The more the number of
peddles on a loom, the more the number of heddle frames.
Shaft: This is a frame which holds the heddles. The more shafts used enables a more
complex pattern can be woven.
PROCESS OF WEAVING IN
PAKISTAN
Reed: Also known as a ‘sley’ is a device consisting of several wires closely set between two slats. It
decides the width of the cloth. The threads are passed through the comb-like gaps of reed and stretched
to the cloth beam of the loom. Reed serves as any or all of the following purposes:
1. Separates the warp yarns
2. Determines the spacing of the warp yarns
3. Guiding the shuttle
4. Beating-up the weft yarn into the fell
Batten: A flexible device which the reed is attached to, in order for pushing back and forth to create the
shed and allow beating-up.
Shed: The area or space between upper and lower warp yarns through which the weft shuttle is passed.
Shedding is the raising of part of the warp yarn to form a shed (the vertical space between the raised and
unraised warp yarns), through which the filling yarn, carried by the shuttle, can be inserted.
Picking. As the harnesses raise the heddles or healds, which raise the warp yarns, the shed is created.
The filling yarn is inserted through the shed by a small carrier device called a shuttle. The shuttle is
normally pointed at each end to allow passage through the shed.
Shuttle: A yarn package carrier that is passed through the shed to insert a weft yarn (picks).
HAND LOOM
PROCESS OF WEAVING IN
PAKISTAN
Battening. Between the heddles and the take up roll, the warp threads pass through another
frame called the reed (which resembles a comb).
The Fell: The portion of the fabric that has already been formed but not yet rolled up on the
take up roll is called the fell. After the shuttle moves across the loom laying down the fill
yarn, the weaver uses the reed to press (or batten) each filling yarn against the fell.
Breast beam: Holds the woven fabric under tension and guides the fabric onto the cloth
beam.
Cloth beam: The woven fabric is wound onto the cloth beam under tension.
Treadles: Peddles which activate the movement of the roller above the shafts, alternating
the and down motion of the shaft.
Fabric Count: or density is no. of warps or filling yarns per square inch. The no. of warp
yarns is written before weft yarns e.g. 80x76 means 80 warp yarns and 76 weft yarns per
square inch of fabric. The more the count the better the quality of fabric.
PROCESS OF WEAVING IN
PAKISTAN
Fabric Count Properties of Fabric
High Count Firm, strong, good cover, compact, stable, wind and water
repellent and rigid drape with less edge raveling.
Low Count Flexible, permeable, soft drape, higher shrinkage potential,
more edge raveling.
Floats Lustrous, smooth, flexible and strong.
TYPES OF LOOMS: MANUAL
WEAVING
Floor Loom - Floor looms are best used for producing longer lengths of fabric, for
production work, designs that are more complex and for carpets and rugs. The loom
must be solid and stable without being excessively heavy.
Table Looms - These smaller, less expensive, portable looms are usually hand
looms.
Tapestry Frame Loom - The tapestry frame loom is the most simple form for a
weaving loom.
Back strap loom - A simple loom comprising two sticks between which the warps
are stretched. One bar is attached to a fixed object and the other to the weaver
usually by means of a strap around the back.
TYPES OF MANUAL LOOMS
Floor Loom Tapestry Loom
TYPES OF MANUAL LOOMS
Back strap loom
TYPES OF POWER LOOM
Power looms were invented in 1785 by Edward Cartwright. these are widely used in
Pakistan’s weaving industry.
1- Dobby Loom:
Invented in (1843) this is type of loom which controls the warp threads by a device
called dobby. Dobby is short for ‘draw boy’, referring to weaver who controlled the
warp.
The dobby loom uses similar equipment such as heddles, sheds and reed. The working
is also quite similar to hand or table looms, except that it is very fast as it is not operated
manually but by electricity.
In manual dobby looms, a chain decides the sequence of patterns. The length of
sequence is limited by length of chain, average dobby chain has 50 bars.
In computerized dobby looms the pattern is controlled by selonoids to select shafts
electrically.
DOBBY LOOM
Tablets also called cards create the shed. Card selectively raises some of the warp
threads and depresses weft threads forming patterns.
It creates plain cloth or cloth in mono-color small scale patterns e.g. mostly
geometrical like hounds-tooth.
Dobby has 12 peddles, 12 shafts create 4094 possible sheds.
TYPES OF POWER LOOM
2- Jacquard Loom:
A French named Joseph Marie Jacquard
developed loom controlled by series of
punched data cards in (1801). These
cards are the program that runs the
loom. It was invented in a computer-less
life, based on mathematics.
Small sensing pins on punch cards
detect the presence or absence of holes
which determine whether or not the
needle will pick up a thread.
JACQUARD LOOM
Jacquard looms produces self prints
(Kashmiri pashmina shawls and
jamaawar).
These use hundreds of peddles, each
thread in warp is controlled individually.
Multi-colored complex designs are
made in cotton, silk and wool.
TYPES OF ADVANCED LOOMS
Air jet loom
Rapier loom
Projectile Loom
Water jet loom
Multi width loom
Multi shed loom
Circular loom
Triaxial loom
RAPIER LOOM
(1922) A useful feature of rapiers is
that they can be simultaneously inserted
in two sheds one above the other, for
producing double plush and certain
carpets.
The machine adopts electronic color
selector up to 8 colors, and the color
selection pattern is programmed directly
on the machine control panel.
PROJECTILE LOOM
Projectile Loom:
(1953) A bullet like shuttle 90 mm long
& weighting about 40 g is called
projectile. Two or three cloths can be
woven simultaneously.
AIR JET AND WATER JET
LOOMS
MULTI-PHASE LOOM
LECTURE 2: WEAVING
TYPES OF ON-LOOM & OFF- Part: II
LOOM WEAVES
CONTENTS
Types of On-Loom Weaves
Off-loom/experimental weaving
End Uses and Applications
TYPES OF ON-LOOM WEAVES
Fabric weave is the pattern for
manufacturing a fabric.
The yarns are controlled by peddles of
loom in different ways to produce
various effects or weaves.
The raising and lowering sequence of
warp threads gives rise to many possible
weave structures.
These can be plain, simple, complexed,
intricate and decorative.
TYPES OF ON-LOOM WEAVES
1-Plain weave 7- Dobby Weave
2- Basket weave 8- Jacquard weave
3- Satin Weave 9- Cut pile and Un-cut pile
4- Twill weave
5- Rib weave
6- Leno Weave
1-PLAIN WEAVE
The basic type of weave where warp and
weft are alternatively inter-wined with
equal tension and visibility.
Characteristics:
Wrinkles
Lower tear strength.
Durable
Inexpensive
Flat surface ideal for printing
Fabrics:
Chiffon, Cotton, Linen, Jute, voile, muslin,
Taffeta etc.
STRUCTURE OF PLAIN WEAVE
2- BASKET WEAVE
In this weave two or more yarns cross
alternatively side by side with two or
more weft yarns.
Characteristics:
Loose construction
Flat look
Flexible structure less stable then plain
weave
Pleasant textures
Fabrics:
Monk’s cloth
STRUCTURE OF BASKET
WEAVE
STRUCTURE OF BASKET
WEAVE
3- SATIN WEAVE
The face of the cloth has only one yarn
visible, either warp or weft. There are
two types:
1- Satin: With filament fibers like silk or
nylon, the product is satin and float is in
warp direction.
2- Sateen: With short staple fibers like
cotton the product is sateen and float is in
weft direction.
Fabrics:
Brocade, Satin silk, velvet satin etc.
3- SATIN WEAVE
Characteristics:
Lustrous
Flat smooth surface
Long floats like 7/1 tear easily
Short floats like 4/1 are tough compact
and durable.
Flexible and drapes well.
STRUCTURE OF SATIN WEAVE
FABRICS FROM SATIN WEAVE
4- TWILL WEAVE
It has an effect of parallel diagonal lines
or ribs created by interlacing of 2 or 3
warp threads over 1 or 2 weft. Thus the
weave is either warp faced or weft
faced.
Characteristics:
Diagonal, cheuron, hound-stooth and
cock screw designs are created.
Durable, heavy fabric with good cover.
Wrinkle resistant
Flexible
4- TWILL WEAVE
Fabrics:
Jeans, Jersey, Tussah, Herringbone,
Flannel, Denim etc.
STRUCTURE OF TWILL WEAVE
FABRICS BY TWILL WEAVE
5- RIB WEAVE
Rib is a pattern of raised lines in knitting
where ribs are prominent in weft as it is
thicker then the warp.
Characteristics:
Abrasion and tear resistant
Fabrics:
Broadcloth, ottoman, poplin, taffeta and
faille etc.
RIB WEAVE STRUCTURE
6- LENO WEAVE
Also known as gauze weave where two
or more warp threads cross and interlace
with one or more weft threads.
Characteristics:
Light transparent fabric allows a lot of
air and light to pass through; less cover
Low yarn count
Less dimensional stability
Fabrics:
Net, blankets, membranes, crochets etc.
STRUCTURE OF LENO WEAVE
LENO WEAVE FABRIC
7- DOBBY WEAVE
It has small patterns and geometric designs
repeated frequently. It is made on dobby loom
by dobby card.
Characteristics:
It creates designs in various types of yarns
from very fine to coarse and fluffy.
Spaced Designs like neats checks and herring
bone are mostly created.
Used in home furnishings, upholstery and
men’s wear mostly.
Fabrics:
Metalasse, brocade, crepe, wool, cotton etc.
DOBBY FABRICS
8- JACQUARD WEAVE
Patterns or figures are created all over the fabric
on a jacquard loom controlled with punch cards.
Each warp is controlled individually and an
infinite number of interlacing is possible creating
very intricate designs.
Characteristics:
Has floats and luster
Stable
Complex weave patterns
Stretchable
Used for upholstery and drapery
Fabrics:
Tapestries, pashmina shawls etc.
FABRICS OF JACQUARD
WEAVE
9- CUT PILE AND UN-CUT
PILE
Cut Pile: It is a carpet-like fabric with
face composed of cut ends of pile yarn,
twisted to maintain shape.
Characteristics:
Durable
Dense
Textured
3 dimensional fabric
Warm
Wrinkle less
May flatten with time.
STRUCTURE OF CUT PILE
9- CUT PILE AND UN-CUT
PILE
Un-cut pile: also called loop pile with round
loops where yarn are not cut, instead the loops
run continuously from face to back of fabric.
Added backing fabric strengthens it.
Characteristics:
 clear design
Softer
More longevity
Strong
Textured with dual shade
Fabrics:
Velvet, towel, corduroy, fake furs, brochetta etc.
UN-CUT PILE
DIFFERENT TYPES OF LOOPS
OFF LOOM WEAVING
Woven Textiles created without a
manual or industrial loom are off loom
weaves.
These are either stretched on a hollow
frame (square or circle) or tied around
nails on a wood. Etc.
The weave is experimental but non
functional.
Decorative weave.
EXPERIMENTAL WEAVING
EXPERIMENTAL WEAVING
IKAT WEAVING
Ikat, or Ikkat, is a dyeing technique
used to pattern textiles that employs a
resist dyeing process on the yarns prior
to dyeing and weaving the fabric.
In ikat the resist is formed by binding
individual yarns or bundles of yarns
with a tight wrapping applied in the
desired pattern. The yarns are then dyed.
It was started in Indonesia.
IKAT WEAVING
ASSIGNMENT:
PRESENTATIONS
Group 1: Definition, History and process of preparing yarn for weaving.
Group 2: History and types of Manual looms
Group 3: History and types of Industrial looms
Group 4: Plain weave and Basket weave
Group 5: Satin Weave and Twill weave
Group 6: Rib weave and Leno Weave
Group 7: Cut pile and Un-cut pile
Group 8: Dobby loom functioning and Dobby Weave
Group 9: Jacquard loom functioning and Jacquard Weave
Group 10: Off- loom and experimental weaves, ideas, materials and their applications.
THANK YOU