SOIL MANAGEMENT

The soil is composed of four major components: air, water,

minerals, and organic matter. In the absence of one of these
components, a material cannot be considered a soil.

Aside from providing mechanical support to plants, it serves as a

reservoir of nutrients- both the naturally occurring and those
supplied by fertilizers.

Procedures and practices for maintaining and sustaining the

fertility and productivity of soils for organic production are
different from conventional method.

Conventional farming system essentially utilizes synthetic

fertilizers as major source of nutrients.

Organic crop production depends on organic material sources and microbial

inoculants/organisms for sustaining soil health and supplying nutrients to the
plants. Such is in harmony with the standards of Organic Agriculture, which
prohibits the use of synthetic fertilizer inputs.
 E S S ENTIA
NUTRIENTS
L
• Just like any living organism, plants require a balanced nutrition or
optimum growth.
• Plants require 16 essential elements for their growth. Nitrogen,
phosphorus, potassium, calcium, sulfur, carbon, hydrogen and
oxygen are elements required in higher quantity and thus are called
macro-elements.
• The rest such as iron, manganese, copper, boron, molybdenum,
chloride, and zinc are called micro nutrients since plants require
them in minimum amounts.
• These elements are inherently present in soils but due to continues
conventional method of fertilizer management, the availability are
reduced and become limiting in crop production. Examples are the
sulfur and zinc deficiencies in lowland irrigated rice fields.
 MOBILE NUTRIENTS

NITROGEN PHOPHORUS POTASSIUM

Potassium is associated with the movement of
Nitrogen is part of the chlorophyll Phosphorus promotes early root water, nutrients and carbohydrates in plant tissue.
molecule, which gives plants their green growth and seed formation, stimulates It's involved with enzyme activation within the
color and is involved in creating food for plant, which affects protein, starch and adenosine
tillering, and increases water use
triphosphate (ATP) production. The production of
the plant through photosynthesis efficiency ATP can regulate the rate of photosynthesis
NITROGEN
DEFICIENCY
OF A TOMATO
S Y MP TOMS O F N DE F I CI E N CY
A RE G E N E RAL CH L O RO S I S OF
L O WE R
L E AV E S ( L I G H T G RE E N TO
Y E L L O W) ,
S T U N T E D AN D S L O W G ROWT H ,
A N D N E CROS I S O F O L D E R L E AV E S
I N S E V E RE CA S E S .
PHOSPHORUS
DEFICIENCY OF
A TOMATO
P DE FI CI E NT PL ANT S GE NE RAL LY T URN DARK
GRE E N ( BOT H L E AVE S AND ST E MS) AND APPE AR
ST UNT E D. OL DE R L E AVE S ARE
AFFE CT E D FI RST AND MAY ACQUI RE A PURPL I SH
DISCOL ORAT I ON DUE TO T HE ACCUMUL AT ION OF
SUGARS I N P DE FI CI E NT PL ANT S WHI CH FAVOR
ANT HOCYANI N SYNT HE SI S; I N SOME CASE S, L E AF
T IPS WI L L BROWN AND DI E .
POTASSIUM
DEFICIENCY
OF A TOMATO
K D EF IC IEN C Y D OES NO T IM MED IATE LY R ESU LT
IN V IS IB LE S YMP TOM S (HIDD EN H UN GE R ).
INITIALLY, TH ER E IS O NLY A R ED UC TION IN
GR OW TH R ATE, W ITH C HL OR OS IS AN D N EC R O SIS
OC C UR R ING IN LAT ER STA GES (MEN GE L AN D
KIR KB Y, 2 0 0 1 ). AF FE C T ED OLD ER LE AVE S W ILL
S HOW LO C A LIZED M OTT LE D O R C HLO R O TIC
AR EA S
W IT H LEAF B U R N AT MAR GIN S
 MOBILE NUTRIENTS
EXCESSIVE

NITROGEN PHOPHORUS POTASSIUM

Excess nitrogen can cause plants to grow excessively Excessive phosphorus, particularly in Excess potassium affects overall plant
and develop overly succulent leaves and shoots, which combination with a high soil pH (above 6.5),
nutrition by preventing the plant from
promotes outbreaks of certain sucking insects and can induce micronutrient deficiencies of zinc
taking up other mineral nutrients, in
mites. Excessive nitrogen causes fruiting plants to and iron. Zinc deficiencies usually show up in
produce relatively more foliage, reducing their fruit early spring as a dwarfing and yellow striping particular magnesium, iron, zinc, and
production and delaying fruit maturity. between the veins of younger leaves. calcium.
FERTILIZER

• Any substance that is added to the soil or to the plant (foliar) to supply the elements required in
plant nutrition.

• Organic Fertilizer - is defined as any product of plant or animal origin that has undergone
substantial decomposition through biological, chemical, or any other process where the original
materials are no longer recognizable, free from chemical fertilizers, any pathogens, soil-like in
texture, contains not less than 20% organic matter (OM) and can supply nutrients to plants.
Fa rmstead Composting
• most important activities in an organically biodegradable materials into compost.
• is an art and science by which we create an environment that improves and accelerates the natural
process of transforming organic matters into readily available organic fertilizer
• happens when wastes is transformed into humus, earth like substance.
• compost is more than a fertilizer and soil conditioner.
• symbol of continuing life on planet
• compost in the gardens and farms are an international replication of the natural process of birth
and death.
B e nefits of Composting
• Compost piles, chambers, and compost baskets are the human-assisted building blocks of nature to
build a healthy soil, the heart of organic agriculture
• Improves soil texture and structure to better retain nutrients, moisture and air for support of healthy
products
• Assist in erosion control and water conservation
• Protects against drought, controls pH, supports essentials bacteria and important microbiological
processes, and feeds earthworms and other beneficial living organism
• Stop nutrients loss
Me thods of Composting
 Conventional Method
• Choose a flat area that is partially protected from sunlight and heavy rains
• Place a cover lining made from plastic on the ground of the composting site to
prevent possible leaching off nutrients. Gather plant and animal materials and
bring them to the compost site.
• Chop the crop material manually, or if available, use a shredding machine to
shred plant materials as this will speed up the decomposition process
significantly
• Soil and/or ashes may or may not be added to the compost pile
• The compost heap will be established by layering the biodegradable material:
– 1st layer: crop and other plant residues (15cm thick)
– 2nd layer: animal manure to a thickness of about 8cm
– 3rd layer: soil about 3 cm
 Conventional Method
• Repeat sequences until a 1-meter high pile is reached.
• Insert a hollow tube (bamboo stick or pvc pipe) In the middle of the pile for air to enter and
circulate. This will facilitate aerobic decomposition. Holes may be put along bamboo or PVC pipe
to add air circuits
• Water the pile until it is sufficiently moist. Water regularly to maintain moisture or appropriate
decomposition, but not too wet, as this will hamper microbial activities.
• Turn over or mix the pile with a spading fork after weeks, then again after 5 weeks.
• Harvest the compost in 3- months
 The 14-day composting
• Choose an area that is partially protected from direct sunlight and heavy rains
• Place a cover lining made from plastic on the base of the composting site to prevent
possible leaching of nutrients.
• Gather plant and animal materials, and bring them to the composting site
• Chop the crop material manually, or if available use a shredding machine to shred plant
material as the 14-day decomposition time cannot be met with big chunks of plant
material
• Thoroughly mix the chopped crop residues with equal amount of fresh manure (ratio
is 50:50)
• Pile the mixture into heap measuring at least 1m x 1m x 1m
Composting Materials

Household/Market wastes

Leaf litters

Animal Manure
Carbonized rice hull Fresh Green Leaves Banana Bract
 The 14-day composting
• Cover the heap with banana leaves, coconut leaves, or other suitable material such as jute
sacks
• By the third and fourth day, the heap should be generating heat process of thermophilic
decomposition. If the heat is not enough, add more manure.
• On the same day (third or fourth), turn the heap inside out so that the materials from the
center will be placed at the outer sides and to introduce air into the system
• Turn the heap every days thereafter to haste decomposition
• In 14-18 days, the compost is ready for harvest
 Basket Composting
• Clean the area allotted for plot preparation. Keep the cut grass and weeds. They can be
used for composting
• Dig the area at least 30 cm deep and raise the bed to make the plots by adding compost
from another source
• In the middle of the created plots, measure holes with 30 cm diameter apart. Dig holes at
least 15 cm depth.
• Drive uneven number of stakes 30 cm long along the edge o these holes. Use of uneven
numbers of stakes makes weaving easy
• Weave long thin strips of bamboo or vines along the stakes to form a basket. If there are
no sources of bamboo or vines, just closely space the stake (about 1 cm apart)
• Place first the most decomposed garbage and manure into basket
 Basket Composting
• Next, place plant materials like leguminous leaves, cut grassed, and weeds
• Fill up basket up to the brim with any available organic wastes
• Earthworm may be added to hasten decomposition
• Plant the seeds or transplant seedlings around the basket with a distance of 15-20 cm from the
basket to prevent decomposing materials to “burn” the plants
• Water the seedlings while still young. When the seedlings are big enough, watering may be done
through the basket only, depending on crops planted. Make sure to mulch crops in the plot.
• After the crops have been harvested, the compost is harvestable as well and can be incorporated
into the soil while cultivating.
• Add new composting materials to the basket for the net crops
 Chamber Composting
• Gather the plant and animal materials and bring them to the composting site
• Chop the crop material manually, or if available, use a shredding machine to shred plant
materials
• Place the animal; manure on the bottom chamber followed by the shredded crop materials,
then water. At this stage compost activators or IMO solution or FPJ may be applied as well
• Place manure again, then shredded crop material, water and spray again with IMO. Repeat the
procedure until the chamber is filled with biodegradable materials
• Allow decomposition process to proceed
 Chamber Composting
• Water and turn the materials weekly
• When the compost “smells sweet” and is like soil in texture, it is ready or harvesting
• Harvest the compost; sieve to remove parts that are not well decomposed
• Air- dry the sleeved compost. The parts not well decomposed will be returned to compost chamber
for net batch of composting
• After drying, place compost in sacks
• Store in dry place until time of usage.
 NITROGEN TEST

• Fill the test tube with soil sample up to the scratch mark
• Add 16 drops (or 1ml) of solution B.
• Mix well by gently swirling the tube 30 times
• Repeat step 3 after about 5 minutes and let the test tube stands for 30 minutes
• Match the color of the resulting solution on top of the soil with the color chart below and
take note if the soil is low, medium, or high n available nitrogen
• Refer to the table of fertilizer recommendation for different crops
• Wash the test tube with tap water and then rinse with distilled water.
 PHOSPHORUS TEST
• Fill the test tube with soil sample up to the scratch mark
• Add 16 drops (or 1 ml) of solution C and 2 drops of solution C1
• Mix well by gently swirling the tube for about 1 minute
• Repeat step 3 after about 3 minutes and let the test tube stand for 5
minutes
• Without disturbing the soil, stir the solution slowly with the tin strip
for one minute. Repeat this step after about two minutes.
• Match the blue color below and take note if the soil is low, medium,
or high in available phosphorus.
• Refer to the table of fertilizer recommendation for different crops
• Wash the test tube with tap water and then rinse with distilled water.
 POTASSIUM TEST

• Fill the test tube up to the scratch mark with soil sample
• Add 16 drops (or 1ml) of solution D and 4 drops of solution D 1.
• Mix well by gently swirling the tube for abut 1 minute.
• Repeat step 3 after about 3 minutes and let stand for 5 minutes or until the soil particles have
settles at the bottom of the tube.
• Add solution E as follows:
– Slowly insert the dropper containing 0.6ml of solution E inside the test tube so that its tip is about 2cm
above the solution
– Slowly add the 0.6ml solution E one drop at a time
– Do not Mix or shake the solution
• Let it stand for 2 minutes. Then observe the appearance of a cloudy yellow layer on top of the
orange solution. A distinct cloudy yellowish layer indicates that the soil has sufficient available
potassium. There is no need to apply potassium fertilizer
• If No distinct cloudy yellowish layer appears on top of the orange solution, the soil is deficient
in available potassium. Refer to the table on fertilizer recommendation for different crops.
 Soil pH

• Fill the test tube with soil sample up to the scratch mark.
• Add 7 drops of CPR pH indicator dye.
• Mix by gently swirling the test tube 20 times
• Repeat step 3 after about two minutes and let the test tube stand for 5 minutes.
• To get the pH of the soil with the corresponding color chart of pH indicator dye used.
• If soil pH is equal to or greater than 6 repeat steps 1 to 5 using BTB instead of CPR. However,
if the soil pH is less than or equal to 5 repeat steps 1 t 5 using BCG instead of CPR.
• Wash test tube with tap water and then rinse with distilled water
 For this week I will visit each
community for Field Soil Analysis
session