ASFT

Introduction to Garment Manufacturing

Techniques I
FASH103
 Course Objectives: ASFT

•The objective of the course is to provide an overview of the

apparel manufacturing process. All the processes are discussed
briefly to make students acquainted with process of producing
garments in industry along with the machineries and technologies
involved
•
 Introduction to sewing machine ASFT

IntroductIon
A sewing machine is used to stitch the fabric and other pliable materials together with threads.
Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the
quantum of manual sewing done in garment industries. Since its invention, it has greatly
improved the efficiency and productivity of the fabric, garment and needle industries.
The different parts of a sewing machine and its functions help the Operator to know the functioning
of a sewing machine. There are different types of sewing machine used in the manufacturing of
garments and other articles, but here in this Unit, we will study only single needle lock stitch
machine.
A sewing machine controls the fabric with feeding devices and forms a perfect stitch to join
the fabrics. It has various parts and attachments, each of which have their own importance and
use. There are mainly two categories of sewing machines that is, domestic sewing machine and
industrial sewing machine.
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A Sewing Machine Operator should have the knowledge and skills to operate the different types of sewing
machine. The Operator should know about the various operations of the sewing machine, its parts, Before the
invention of a useable machine for sewing, everything was sewn by hand. Many early efforts tried to replicate this
hand sewing method but were mostly a failure. It looked to embroidery, where a needle was used to
produce decorative stitches but not for joining the fabrics.

The final look of any garment or article depends on how the different components are attached together by
sewing. Any variation in sewing leads to a defective material. Thus, sewing must be done with caution.
Sewing can be broadly classified in two categories— hand sewing and machine sewing. Hand sewing may
be used for temporary purposes or sometimes, it may be used for some special purposes like hemming, buttonhole
making, blanket stitch, etc. Here in this session, our main focus is on the sewing machine. The basic thought
behind sewing machines is to mechanically stitch two or more pieces of material—mainly fabric, together
using thread and a needle. Sewing machines reduce the amount of manual sewing in preparing a garment or any
other article. Sewing machines help the operator in getting the work done quicker, with greater accuracy and much
more consistently.

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Categories of sewing machine

The following are the main categories of sewing machine.
Domestic sewing machines
These are designed mainly for one person to sew individual dresses
while using a single stitch type. Modern sewing machines are
designed in such a way that the fabric easily glides in and out of the
sewing machine, speeding the stitching process and saving time and
energy. Some key points for domestic sewing machines are as
follows.

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1. Domestic sewing machines are usually used in homes by

people simply interested in sewing.
2. These are commonly used by people in a variety of
projects for dressmaking, and for stitching simple home furnishing
items.
3. With little changes, these machines can perform a variety of stitch
types.
4.Domestic sewing machines usually work on lightweight fabrics or
work pieces.
5.These machines run on significantly smaller motors
compared to that of the industrial sewing machines
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Industrial sewing machines
1.Industrial sewing machines are a heavy-duty version of a standard basic
sewing machine, and it is used in garment and other related industries.
2.Industrial sewing machines are used for mass
production.
3.These are heavy-duty machines that work thousands of stitches per minute.
4.An industrial machine is well equipped with a clutch and large servo motor.
5.Industrial machines are mainly designed to perform one single specific
function in assembly- line based factories.
6.Some industrial machines are designed to operate
heavier than normal material.
7.Mainly, mass production requires an industrial sewing machine, which is
designed to sew heavy material speedily, such as leather, canvas, and vinyl,
at one time.
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• The industrial machines are named based on the function that

they serve. Typical names for industrial machine class include
pocket setter, buttonhole, and programmable pattern sewers, etc.
For instance, a pocket industrial machine can sew 2,000 pockets
in an eight-hour production cycle.
• Programmable machines can store 10–30 or more patterns in the
memory.
• Special purpose industrial machines can give better output in
production, for example, buttonhole
• machines, pocket setter, pattern sewer.
• Industrial sewing machines are larger, faster, more complex, and
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more varied in their size, price and task.

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The following are the comparison between domestic and industrial

sewing machines:
• The industrial machine is faster, stitching from 3000–6000 stitches
per minute, while the fastest domestic sewing machine stitches
not more than 1500 stitches per minute.
• The presser foot (See Session 3) on a power machine is raised and
lowered with a knee lift to a special foot pedal. On domestic
machines, it is generally operated manually using a lever at the
back of the needle bar.
• Lubrication is done automatically in industrial sewing machines
whereas it is done manually in domestic sewing machines.
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Types of sewing machine

Though there are different types of sewing machine but mainly, three types are considered for sewing, as given below.
1.Mechanical sewing machines
2.Electronic sewing machines
3.Computerised sewing machines
1. Mechanical sewing machines
These machines are less expensive and are the simplest type of sewing machines in terms of build. They are the hand-
operated sewing machine and treadle sewing

Fig: A hand-operated
sewing machine Fig: Treadle sewing 5

machine
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Hand-operated sewing machine

(i)This is the simplest form of domestic sewing machine which is operated by hand.
(ii)A handle is attached to the flywheel (See Session 3) which is detachable and is used to operate the machine.
(iii)A hand-operated sewing machine is generally used for domestic purpose for simple projects as it does not work very
speedily.
(iv)This machine is suitable where there is no electricity supply.

Fig: A hand-operated
sewing machine Fig: Treadle sewing machine 5
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Treadle sewing machine

(i)This machine is the same as a hand-operated sewing machine but it is operated by feet, with an additional stand
attached to the machine.
(ii)A belt is attached to the lower stand passing through the balance wheel and driven by feet.
(iii)These machines run faster than the hand-operated sewing machine.
(iv)This machine is also suitable for the places where there is no electric supply.
(v)When handling the treadle sewing machine, both the hands of the Operator are free to handle the fabric. Hence, this
speeds up the
work of sewing.

Fig: A hand-operated
sewing machine Fig: Treadle sewing machine 5
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2. Electronic sewing machine

These machines became popular during the 1970s. There are many machine. more features in an electronic sewing
machine than in a mechanical sewing machine.
(i)These sewing machines run faster than manually operated machines.
(ii)In the electronic machines, balance wheel comes to motion by a belt, which is attached to an electric motor.
(iii)A single motor is attached to the electronic sewing machines and this motor supplies power to the needle.
(iv)It is essential to control the speed of this machine
by putting pressure on an electronic foot pedal.
(v)Practice is essential to handle an electric sewing
machine.

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3.Computerised sewing machines

(i)These sewing machines are very fast and specific
to use.
(ii)These machines are similar to the electronic sewing machines. However, a
computerised sewing machine works with the help of various softwares.
(iii)Computerised sewing machines allow the Operator to tailor the functions
according to the sewing needs. A computerised sewing machine functions very
appropriately in designing and stitching various components of the garment like
sleeves, yokes, pockets, etc. These advanced computerised machines have an
LED display or LCD display or touch screen. They are multi function machines
and are expensive.

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The following are some other types of sewing machines

according to their specific applications.
(i)Lock stitch machine
(ii)Chain stitch machine
(iii)Double chain stitch machine
(iv)Buttonhole machine
(v)Button stitch machine
(vi)Bar-tack machine
(vii)Feed off arm machine
(viii)Over-lock machine
(ix)Blind stitch machine
(x)Over-edge machine
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Fig.: Lock stitch Fig. : Chain stitch

machine machine
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Fig.: Double chain stitch Fig. 1.7: Buttonhole

machine machine
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Fig: Button stitch Fig: Bar-tack

machine machine
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Fig: Feed off arm machineFig: Over-lock

machine
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Fig: Blind stitch Fig: Over-edge

machine machine