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Fitting Problems & Garments Alteration

1. Sliding Gauge Tool 2. Clip 3. Pleat 4. Clapper 5. Ruled Hemming Clips 6. Adjustable Bias Tape Binding Foot 7. Hot Hemmer 8. Length of Skirt 9. Hips 10. Increasing Skirt Front for large abdomen 11. Altering Skirt for small or large Derriere 12. Crotch Length in pants 13. Lengthening & shortening Sleeve 14. Increasing Sleeve Circumference 15. Increasing Sleeve width above & below elbow

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Maria Elizabeth Tabelisma
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1K views33 pages

Fitting Problems & Garments Alteration

1. Sliding Gauge Tool 2. Clip 3. Pleat 4. Clapper 5. Ruled Hemming Clips 6. Adjustable Bias Tape Binding Foot 7. Hot Hemmer 8. Length of Skirt 9. Hips 10. Increasing Skirt Front for large abdomen 11. Altering Skirt for small or large Derriere 12. Crotch Length in pants 13. Lengthening & shortening Sleeve 14. Increasing Sleeve Circumference 15. Increasing Sleeve width above & below elbow

Uploaded by

Maria Elizabeth Tabelisma
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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FITTING PROBLEMS

& GARMENTS
ALTERATION
Terminologies
• Design

The arrangement of elements of art and principles of design .


• Fabrics

material of which a garment is made


• Style

design created for a product in an effort to appeal to long term criteria


of what is beautiful or socially correct.
Fashion
a current accepted style.
Terminologies
• Fad

a style that has captured the attention of the consumers


instantaneously and briefly.
• Look

is the sum total of the elements which helps to determining the


styles
• Couture

signifies the high quality designed


Terminologies
• Couturier

a male or female designer


• Silhouette

outline contour of a garment.


FIGURE
TYPES
TAKING BODY
MEASUREMENT
Terminologies
• Alter

to make changes in a pattern so that it accurately matched


corresponds to body measurement.
• Center Back

the lengthwise position on a pattern from nape downward


• Center Front

the length position on a pattern or garment from center neck


downward to navel or center waist.
• Slash

to cut, as through the center fold of a dart .


Terminologies
• Good Fit

term used for perfectly fitted garments


• Grainline

the lengthwise and crosswise direction of yarns in a fabric


• Rear

the back part of the body which you sit on


• Sag

to sink or bend, away from the usual position


PRINCIPLES
OF GOOD
FIT
Five concepts can served as clues good or
bad fit
•Grain
•Line
•Set
•Balance
•Ease
Evaluation of Finished Garments
• Characteristics of a well-fitted blouse

1. The neckline is properly done and laid flat over the shoulder.
2. The shoulder is flat, and the armhole is comfortable for movement.
3. The darts are correctly sewn.
4. Seams are straight.
5. Hips are comfortably done.
6. The waistline is comfortable.
7. Closures are properly attached.
Evaluation of Finished Garments
•Characteristics of a Good Collar
1. Edges are properly sewn.
2. Curves are smoothly done.
3. Pointed edges are neatly finished and have the same size
and shape.
4. Collar is smoothly finished.
Evaluation of Finished Garments
•Characteristics of a Finished Sleeve

1. The sleeve is well rounded over the sleeve-


cap.
2. The sleeve is comfortable at the armhole.
3. Freedom of movement is felt.
Evaluating Fit in Pattern or Garment
• Problem 1
Evidences of Poor Fit. Set :

Horizontal folds lie between the waistline


and hipline, in both back and front. Line:
Lie the side seam straight and flat in this
area.

Cause of Difficulty.

When hips are large , the skirt becomes


too tight around hips. Its narrowness
prevents its slipping far enough down to
take its position on the larger
circumference at hip level to fit smoothly
over the hips as shown in a.
Problem 2
Evidence of Poor Fit. Set
Crosswise folds and wrinkles appear
between waistline and hipline in the
back only,
Cause of Difficulty.
Sway back : There is more length in
the garment than is needed to cover
this hollow of the body. If the rear hip
has enough prominence, the side
seam may hang in the correct position,
with folds or wrinkles forming above
the rear hip, a.
Problem 3 Evidence of Poor Fit.
Line: waistline drops below normal
waist across the back. Skirt sags at
hemline in the back and side seam hangs
toward the front, a. Balance: Skirt is
unbalanced at hem, and it hangs nearer
to the body at the back than at the front.

Cause of Difficulty.
Sway back and/ or flat rear hip : Flat
shoulder blades (over erect figure) might
also be partly responsible for this
difficulty. As the back waistline is not in a
normal position on the body, it is likely
that the figure has a flatter shoulder-
blade area than normal, causing the
seam to sag as it crosses the hollow
section of the back.
Terminologies

Clip
a short cut with the point of the scissors into the seam allowance.
Slash
to cut, as through the center fold of the dart.
Pleat
a fold of fabric over fabric , usually of equal width.
Common or Fitting Problem in Sleeve
Lengthening & shortening Sleeve
 To adjust the sleeve length, check the personal measurement of your
patron or customer.
Alteration may be made above and / or below the elbow, according to
individual needs.
Increasing Sleeve Circumference
If the pattern does not provide at least 2” of ease
in the upper arm circumference, the pattern needs
to be altered. If arm is fleshly or muscular both
above and below the elbow, the pattern should be
increase through its entire length.
Increasing Sleeve width above & below elbow
Fitting Problems in Lower Garment
•Length of Skirt
•Hips
•Increasing Skirt Front for large abdomen
•Altering Skirt for small or large Derriere
•Crotch Length in pants
Tools in Garment
Alterations
Clapper
•The tailor’s clapper
is used to get flat,
crisp seams and
creases while
sewing.
Ruled Hemming Clips
• Measure and pin your
hems at the same time.
Easy to use the clips opens
up like a bobby pin slide it
over your folded fabric
and you're ready to sew
Wonder Tape
• Wonder Tape is a water-soluble
thin double-sided sticky tape
which doesn’t gum up your
machine needle, and washes out
as soon as your garment is
washed
Sliding Gauge Tool
•Makes marking so fast and
accurate. You place it on
the edge of your fabric and
slide in or out the distance
you want
Edge Stitch Foot
• The foot is designed so that you
can neatly top stitch or edge stitch
a project. To sew with an edge-
stitching foot is that it has a blunt
blade down the middle of the foot
(which is often present in an edge-
joining foot or blind hem foot, so
they can work equally well)
Adjustable Bias Tape
Binding Foot
•Thisfoot is designed to guide
double fold bias tape so you
can sew it straight and enclose
a layer of fabric, such as for
edging
Hot Hemmer
• Fold,measure, press
hems, and more in one
step. Measure, mark
and press straight
hems, round, interior
and miter corners.
Direction: Identify the following.
1.It makes your marking fast and accurate .
2. It refers to a short cut along the seam allowance.
3. A fold fabric over a fabric, usually of equal width.
4. It is used to get flat, crisp seams and creases while sewing.
5. These tools used to measure and pin your hems at the same time.
6. This foot is designed to guide double fold bias .
7. These tool used to measure, mark, and press straight hems.
8-12. Fitting problem for lower garment
13-15. Common problem in sleeve

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