Sewing Machines

History and Development of the Sewing Machines

 In 1791, British inventor Thomas Saint was the first to patent a design
for a sewing machine. His machine was meant to be used on leather
and canvas.
 In 1830, a French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier, presented a sewing
machine that sewed straight seams by using chain sewing machines.
 The lock stitch sewing machine was invented by Walter Hunt in
1833.
 Charles Miller patented the first machine to stitch buttonholes in
1856.
 James Edward Allen Gibbs, a farmer of Virginia, patented the first
chain-stitch single-thread sewing machine on June 2, 1857.
 Sewing machines continued being made to roughly the same design,
with more lavish decoration appearing until well in to 1900s, when the
first electric sewing machines started to appear.
 The first electric machines were developed by Singer Sewing CO.
and introduced in 1889.
 Modern machines may be computer controlled and use stepper motors
to achieve very complex patterns.
 Sewing Machine Components
A basic sewing machine consists of the fundamental parts
required to form a stitch, sew a seam or stitching or to perform a
particular sewing operation.

The major components of a basic sewing machine include;

 The casting

 Lubrication systems

 Stitch forming systems

 Feeding systems

The speed at which a machine can operate depends on the engineering

of machine’s components.
 1- The Casting
The machine casting is the metal form that provides the exterior shape to the
machine. Shapes of machine can vary according to the type of bed and the
sewing function that is to be performed and how piece goods are to be prepared.
The casting houses the internal workings that operate the sewing and feeding
mechanism. the bed type and location of the cloth plate.
determines

Bed Types
 Flat Bed
 Semi Submerged
 Raised Bed
 Post Bed
 Off-the-arm Bed
 Cylinder Bed
 Long Arm Flat Bed
Flat bed
Flatbed/ Fully Submerged Bed Type ideal for small parts and
where positioning parts to the needle is a "slide" from the
tabletop.
Semi-Submerged Bed
Semi-Submerged Bed Machine for medium to large parts.

Raised Bed
Raised Bed Machines where the entire machine is mounted on the
top of the table. Used where you need the garment to drape
away from the needle for better handling.

Post Bed
Post bed machine where the needle plate and foot are mounted on
a tall post that facilitates sewing in tight spaces like sleeve cap,
or shoes.
Off-the-Arm Bed
Off-the-Arm Bed types facilitate sewing sleeve seams,
inseam or out seams on Pant legs or other long seams
in tight places.

Cylinder Bed
Cylinder Bed Machines for sewing around the end
of Tubular Shapes such as Cuffs, Armholes and
Round Neck Openings.

Long Arm Flat Bed

Long Arm Flat Bed for sewing large objects
(Quilts,
Upholstery, Flags, Sails, etc.)
 2-Lubrication System
Lubrication factors are the prime factors in
Lubrication factors are the main factors in maintenance, downtime, efficient
operations and long life time of various parts of the machine. The
mechanical parts of sewing machine like any other mechanical parts are need
to be lubricated (oiled) to reduce friction and keep mechanical parts moving
freely.
High speed and temperature increase the need for lubrication because of
increased friction.
There are two types of lubrication systems available.
 Manual
 Automatic

In the former case oiling is done manually. In these machines no special

mechanism for oiling is present. These machines are also called as dry head
machines. The conventional sewing machine at homes is also an example in
which manually oiling is done.
In automatic oiling systems different parts work in combination with each
other to ensure the effective supply of oil to the required parts like;

 Oil Pump

 Wick Felt

 Oil Gauge and oil sight window

 Oil distribution network (oil

pipes)
 3-Stitch Forming System
• Stitch forming system are the mechanical parts that when correctly
synchronized forms stitches, seams and then stitching.
• Various stitch forming mechanism are:

 Thread control devices ( thread guides and thread tensions).

 Needles
 Bobbin case, bobbin and hooks
 Loppers
 Spreaders

• Thread Control Devices

• Thread control devices include thread guides, thread tensions and take-ups
which are necessary to provide uniform thread flow.
• Thread guides
• Thread guides control the position and movement of thread. Damaged or
• faulty thread guides can damage sewing thread and cause thread breakage.
Tension Devices
Tension devices controls the flow and tension in the thread going to form a
stitch.
Tension in the thread determines the balance and tightness of a stitch. Tensioning
devices consist of a pair of tension disks, a spring and a thumb nut that can be
adjusted to control the ease with which thread passes between the disks.
Thread take-ups
Thread take up control the supply of thread required to form each stitch. It gives
extra thread to the needle to form the stitch but takes it away to set the stitch.
Needles
Needles carry the thread through the fabric so a stitch can be sewn.
Hook
A hook is a rotating device encompassing the bobbin case that picks up
the
needle thread loop to form a lock stitch.
Loopers
Loopers are available in different shapes respective of their machines.
Looper may or may not carry the lower thread in the formation of stitch.
As in case of flat lock lopper holds the lower thread but in case of single
needle chain stitch it holds the needle thread.
Spreader
Spreader work in conjunction with a looper to assist in the loop formation.
They in fact move the thread but did not carry the thread.
 4-Feeding System
The material handling components of machine are also called as the feeding
system.

The feeding system usually consists of the following parts:

 The presser foot

 The throat plate
 Feeding mechanism

The presser foot

The presser foot is the upper part of the feeding mechanism. It is mainly
responsible for applying pressure and proper holding of the fabric.
The presser foot also controls the amount of pressure as if light fabric is being
sewed than more pressure will be implemented however if heavy fabric is being
sewed than pressure in the presser foot is lowered to some extent.
The throat plate
Throat plate is a metal plate that is present directly under the needle. Throat
plate has openings for needle and feed dogs.
Feed Mechanism
Feed mechanism control the direction of fabric movement and the amount of
fabric movement for each stitch. Feed mechanism affect stitch length and the
rate of travel.
 FUNCTION OF FEED MECHANISM

• To advance the fabric in the feeding zone of the sewing

machine.

• To decide the length of individual stitch (spm)

• Appropriate feed mechanism is sleeted to confirm case

in sewing

• Operation & to avoid different sewing faults.

 FEED TYPES

 Drop feed mechanism

 Needle feed mechanism
 Unisom feed mechanism
 Differential bottom feed mechanism
 Adjustable top feed mechanism
 Puller feed mechanism.
DROP FEED MECHANISM
DROP FEED MECHANISM
 PROBLEMS OF DROP FEED
• When two plies fabrics are sewn- lower ply moves forward
by the help of feed dog but foot.

• So two plies of fabric can not move forward at the same

speed. As a result lower ply is more fed than upper ply.

• This is called ply shifting/differential

feeding pucker/feeding pucker.

• Sometimes roping is occurred during making of hem for

ply shifting.
NEEDLE FEED MECHANISM
 NEEDLE FEED

• Needle feed is the feed system in which the

needle itself moves forwards and backwards
• The needle enters the fabric, moves back with it as
it is moved along to begin the next stitch.
• It is particularly useful in bulky sewing situations
such as when quilting through the fabric and
wadding. 2-needle, Needle-feed, Lockstitch
Machine
• Used for stitching slippery fabric as well heavy
material like leather, carpet etc.
 NEEDLE FEED
• On the needle feed, the needle moves to and
from as well as up and down.
• The other is a normal machine in which the
needle only moves up and down.
• Needle feed mechanisms are good at preventing
the layers of material from slipping, which can be
especially important for slick fabrics.
• Since some needle feed mechanisms do not put
pressure on the fabric the way feed dogs do,
they will not leave any marks on delicate fabric.
UNISON FEED MECHANISM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sk-rFXSiWbg
 UNISON FEED MECHANISM
 All of the feed dog, needle and presser foot travel together
to feed the fabric while the needle has entered the fabric
plies inside.
 The presser foot is divided into two parts; one part has
teeth underneath and moves in the direction of feed while
the other part moves only up and down and holds the
fabric between feed strokes during the formation of the
stitch.
 Unison feed is used to sew thick materials such as
tarpaulin fabric, polyvinyl chloride (PVC), and leather
into multiple plies.
 It helps to do consistent sewing of all types of thick
materials over cross-over seams without pitch errors (no-
stitch gathering or stitch elongation).
DIFFERENTIAL BOTTOM FEED
 DIFFERENTIAL BOTTOM FEED

• Modification of drop feed system.

• In the feed mechanism the feed dog consists of 2

section one at back & one at front of the needle.

• Mechanism of each section of feed dog is like the

drop feed system. But the speed of each part can
be adjusted separately.

• Extensively used for stretchy materials.

ADJUSTABLE TOP AND BOTTOM FEED MECHANISM
ADJUSTABLE TOP AND BOTTOM FEED MECHANISM
ADJUSTABLE TOP AND BOTTOM FEED MECHANISM

 In general arrangement the presser foot is in two section.

 One holding the fabric in position while the needle form

the stitch and the other having length on the lower side &
moving or waking in such a w ay that the top ply is taken
along, positively while needle is out of the materials.

 In sewing machine, the feed mechanism can be used with

both drop feed & differential bottom feed.

 Combination of adjustable feed & differential bottom

feed can make top ply gathering or the gathering of
bottom ply.
PULLER FEED
 PULLER FEED
• Modification of drop feed system.
• A pair of roller used.
• These rollers give a pulling motion on the fabric
behind the presser foot.
• Top roller is generally driven by machine whitest the
lower one moves due to control & presser of the top
roller .
• The surface speed of puller roller is slightly higher then
the feed dog speed to presser ply shifting roping.
• Useful in multi needle machine specially for W/B
making.
 INTERLOOPING
• Passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed
• by the different thread.
 INTRALOOPING
• Passing of a loop of thread through another
• loop formed by the same thread.
 INTERLACIN
G
• Passing of a thread over or around another
thread or loop of different thread.
 Thread-guides
Thumb-nut screw

Stitch
Take-up lever regulator

Tension discs/check-
spring

Needle bar

Needle Reversing lever

Throat plate
Needle guard Machine bed
Presser foot
 Lock Stitch Machine
 A lock stitch is the most common mechanical stitch made by a sewing
machine.
 A stitch made on a sewing machine by the interlocking of the upper
thread (Needle) and the bobbin thread.
 Ideally, the lock stitch material that is to say: ideally the upper thread
catches the lower thread in the middle of the material. The thread
tension mechanisms, one for the upper thread and one for the lower
thread, prevent either thread from pulling the catching point from
out of the middle of the material.
Stitch Formation Of Lock Stitch Machine
Chain Stitch Machine
Function of Interloping
Function of Interloping
Function of Interloping
Overlock Machines
STITCH TYPES PRODUCED BY
OVERLOCK MACHINE
 Stitch Type 501 [ 1 thread overedge]

 Stitch Type 503 [ 2 thread overedge]

 Stitch Type 504 [ 3 thread overedge]

 Stitch Type 514 [ 4 thread overedge]

 Stitch Type 516 [ 5 thread overedge]

THREADING
 Problems:
 On completion of the first garment, the
formation of 1-1.5 inch long thread chain;

 Spoiling the appearance of the second

garment as it gets stitched along with it;

 Finishing of the garment by manual

cutting of the chain leading to higher
labour costs and waste of time.
 BackLatcher Device
 An attachment for semi-automatic and
automatic sewing machine that
ensures that any excess thread chain
extending from the leading or trailing
edge of the garment during
operation an on the
machine is garment
directly stitched
on theto the next
garment so that no loose or free ends
of the chain are remained.
Disadvantages of overedge machines:


Can’t be used to attach patch pockets
or for top stitching as it would trim
along the seam line thus destroying the
fabric.

 High thread consumption.

Flat Lock Machine
 Flat Lock Machine

 Elements in Stitching
› Needle
› Looper
› Spreader
 Multi Needle Machine can have more than three
needles.
Stitch Formation Of Flat Lock Machine
Lower looper scoops needle
thread loop and
simultaneously upper
decorative looper scoops
upper decorative thread.
Cloth is fed and only right-
hand needle is positioned in
the outside of decorative
thread. Two left-hand
needles come down and
scoop upper decorative
thread.
Needle further come down
and scoop lower looper
thread. And Two right-hand
needles enter in between the
respective needle threads.
Needle thread comes off
lower looper and needle
comes down in its lowest
position. Lower looper and
upper decorative looper are
in the most retracted
positions.