Footwear closing

EDGE AND TOP LINE TREATMENTS

 Outline
• Introduction • Gimped Edge
• Objectives • Gimped and Punched
• Raw Edge/Inking Edge
• Folding/Bending Edge • Slip Beading
• Bagged Top Line • Ghillie Top Line
• French Binding • Summary
• Italian Binding
• English Binding
 INTRODUCTION

• The edges of components need some type of

treatment as all cannot be left as they have
been cut.
• The designer mainly dictates the choice of edge
and Top line treatment. Cost is also an
important consideration.
• Top line is the highest continuous top edge of
the shoe regardless of its shape.
 Objectives
After studying this unit, you should be able to
• Give different treatments to edges
• Attach English binding on top line.
• Attach French binding on top lines, and
• Produce bagged top line etc.
 Key words
• Reinforcement : Nylon, cotton or polyester
tape or cloth pasted to give extra strength to
material.
• Top Line : The highest continuous edge of the
shoe.
• Scorched : Burn on the surface or edges.
• Binding : Binding is the covering of edge by
use of fabric, plastic or leather strip.
 RAW EDGE/INKING

 This is the cheapest type of edge treatment, the edge

being left as cut in the clicking.
 On these edges colour is applied to match the colour and
shade of the upper leather.
 The raw edge could be skived to neaten the edge.
 This raw edge could be edge inked/coloured by a
matching/contrasting colour.
 Cont..
(ii) Usually edge inking is done prior to skiving as
it is difficult to colour the edges on a thin edge.
(iii) Edge inking could be carried out by holding
the components with a clamp and then
colouring them either
 Cont…..
by brush/sponge/spraying (for spraying, a
spray booth is required).
This must be done before stitching.
(iv) Gimped edge could be coloured by
pressing them against a sponge saturated with
ink
 If some component needs to be edge inked after stitching, then each
piece has to ink individually with a felt pen, wax crayon or a small
sponge.
Pre Checks
 All the raw edge components are to check for raw edge skiving and
neat edges.
 Edge colour should match the required specification.
 In case of spray inking, spray gun should be check against cleaning
and quantity of colour to come out during spraying. Nozzle can be
adjusted accordingly.
 Operation Method

 All the raw edge components are staked together and

necessary colour/ink is applied with the help of sponge,

knotted cloth piece on wooden stick or by spray.

 Spray gun is used for quick and quality edge inking. The

stake of the raw edge components is pressed under the

pneumatic pressure and spraying is done accordingly by
rotating the workstation.
 Quality Standards

Care should be taken for over flowing of ink, which

can hamper the adhesive bond or may irritate the
wearer’s skin or damage the grain side of component.
Ink should be applied evenly on the raw edges.
During pressing the components under pneumatic
pressure, care should be taken against any mark or
surface damage.
Manual inking by sponge or wooden stick is time
consuming and hence not suitable for mass
production during edge inking.
 Cont…
• It is the process of turning over and stitching
down of the edge of a material, which has
already been skived.
• In this process the skived edge of the
component is turned over and pasted to give
the edge a neat appearance.
• The half of the thickness of the material and
double of the folding allowance is skived so
that edges retain the same thickness after
folding.
 FOLDING/BENDING EDGE
(i) Folding could be done manually by hand or by thermo-folding
machine.
(ii) The amount of folding depends upon the material – normally the
folding allowance is 4 mm – it can be less on very light materials and
more on heavy materials or fabrics.
(iii) Before folding, reinforcement tape is attached (especially on top
lines).
 Pre Checks

 All the components are to check for folding skiving

accordingly.
 Adhesive and reinforcement should be selected as
per specification.
 Adhesive pot should be neat and clean and must
have lid on it.
 All the concern tools are required to be kept in
proper place.
 Master pattern/sample should be taken against
necessary
 Operation Method

All the fold skiving components are staked together and

necessary adhesive is applied in case of hand folding.
• All the necessary tools like folding hammer, prick awl
and reinforcement tape should kept ready near the
work stone.
• The reinforcement tape should be prier dipped in
adhesive for proper fixing inside the folding margin.
• Apply the suitable adhesive on folding margin and fix
the reinforcement tape in the centre of the skiving.
• Always start folding from right to left side of the edge.
Quality Standards
 Do not hit the edge too hard, as it can damage the grain structure of
the component.
 Provide specified drying time before folding.
 Care should be taken for even folding all around the edge.
 Reinforcement tape should not be twisted other side during fixing.
Quality Standards

• Do not hit the edge too hard, as it can damage the grain structure of
the component.
• Provide specified drying time before folding.
• Care should be taken for even folding all around the edge.
• Reinforcement tape should not be twisted other side during fixing.

Folding
 BAGGED TOP LINE
 In this top line the upper is shallow fold skived.
 The lining is stitched face to face with upper.
 The seam is stuck down towards inside of the
upper and then lining is folded over the top line
with the seam below the edge of the upper.
 The reinforcement is given on the flesh side of
the upper at the edge.
 Cont….

 Upper and lining should be securely bonded

otherwise edges will be loose and bulky.
 Lining should be tightly pulled down while
turning over and securely bonded otherwise
lining will appear loose.
 It gives a smooth top line with no top line
stitching
 Pre Checks

• Check the previous operation performed like

counter and quarter seam or quarter or eyelet
facing seam depends on the design accordingly.
• Check for suitable skiving on the top line of
component.
• Check for specified foam to be fixed inside
bagged the top line.
 Cont….

Adhesive and reinforcement should be

selected as per specification.
Adhesive pot should be neat and clean and
must have lid on it.
All the concern tools are required to be kept
in proper place.
Master pattern/sample should be taken
against necessary checks.
 Operation Method

 Stitch quarter and lining top line by placing

them face-to-face (grain to grain) with suitable
reinforcement tape.
 Apply rubber solution adhesive on top line
(both side) and foam.
 Cont…

 Do top line folding by 2 to 2.5 mm for easy turning of lining.

 After proper drying of adhesive, place the foam in required
place and turn the lining on other side (inside)
 Quality Standards….

 Maintain 1.5 mm distance from the edge

during stitching and stitch should come over
the reinforcement tape (if used).
 Apply smooth coat of suitable adhesive.
 Proper drying time should be given to
adhesive.
 Cont….

 Care should be taken for even folding all

around the edge.
 Reinforcement tape should not be twisted
other side during fixing.
 Wrinkles should be avoided during turning
the lining.
 Even foam should be maintained during
turning the lining.
 Cont…

First Step of Bagged Top Line (Stitching Upper and Lining

Component Grain to Grain)
Second Step of Bagged Top Line (Turning of
Lining Component)
 FRENCH BINDING
• A strip of binding approx. 15 mm wide is stitched face
to face with the upper top edge.
• The reinforcement is given on the flesh side of the
upper at the edge.
• The binding is the folded over the edge, stuck and
hammered down and then stitched by a row of top line
stitching
• It produces a top line, which is strong and does not
stretch.
• It is suitable for most top lines especially court shoes.
 Pre Checks

• Check the quality of previous operation like

skiving and splitting of binding as per
specification.
• Adhesive and reinforcement should be
selected as per specification.
 Cont….

Adhesive pot should be neat and clean and must

have lid on it.
• All the concern tools are required to be kept in
proper place.
• Master pattern/ sample should be taken
against necessary checks.
 Operation Method

• Stitch component edge and binding edge by

placing them face to face (grain to grain) with
suitable reinforcement tape.
• Apply suitable adhesive on binding and
component’s edge from (both side).
• After proper drying of adhesive, place the
foam in required place and turn the lining on
other side (inside).
 Cont….
• Do top line folding by 1.5 to 2 mm for easy
turning of binding.
• After top line folding, manually turn the whole
binding on other side of component by
maintaining equal and even turn.
 Cont…

Attach the binding gently on other side of

component by maintaining the equal and even
turn.
• Attach the lining by maintaining desired
trimming allowance and stitch the top line from
the turning of the binding
 Quality Standards

• Maintain 1.5 mm distance from the edge during

stitching and stitch should come over the reinforcement
tape (if used).
• Apply smooth coat of suitable adhesive.
• Proper drying time should be given to adhesive.
• Care should be taken for even folding all around the
edge.
 FRENCH BINDING
A strip of binding approx. 15 mm wide is
stitched face to face with the upper top edge.
The reinforcement is given:-
on the flesh side of the upper at the edge.
The binding is the folded over the edge, stuck
and hammered down and then stitched by a
row of top line stitching
 Cont……….

It produces a top line, which is strong and

does not stretch.
It is suitable for most top lines especially
court shoes.
 Pre Checks

 Check the quality of previous operation like skiving

and splitting of binding as per specification.
 Adhesive and reinforcement should be selected as
per specification.
 Adhesive pot should be neat and clean and must
have lid on it.
 All the concern tools are required to be kept in
proper place.
 Master pattern/ sample should be taken against
necessary checks.
 Operation Method

 Stitch component edge and binding edge by placing

them face to face (grain to grain) with suitable
reinforcement tape.
 Apply suitable adhesive on binding and
component’s edge from (both side).
 After proper drying of adhesive, place the foam in
required place and turn the lining on other side
(inside).
 Do top line folding by 1.5 to 2 mm for easy turning
of binding.
 Cont………

 After top line folding, manually turn the whole binding on

other side of component by maintaining equal and even

turn.

 Attach the binding gently on other side of component by

maintaining the equal and even turn.

 Attach the lining by maintaining desired trimming allowance

and stitch the top line from the turning of the binding.
 Quality Standards

• Maintain 1.5 mm distance from the edge during

stitching and stitch should come over the reinforcement
tape (if used).
• Apply smooth coat of suitable adhesive.
• Proper drying time should be given to adhesive.
• Care should be taken for even folding all around the
edge.
 Cont…

 Reinforcement tape should not be twisted other

side during fixing.
 Wrinkles should be avoided during turning the
binding.
 Even and equal distance should be maintained
during turning the binding.
 Cont…
First Step of French Binding (Stitching
Binding and Upper Component)

Second Step of French Binding (Turning of

Binding)

Third Step of French Binding (Stitching of Top

Line)
 ITALIAN BINDING

 Italian binding is a kind of U-binding.

 This is constructed in two ways.

 In first method the binding is stitched directly

in cylinder bed machine with the help of
binding tube on top line of the component.
 Cont….

 Then lining is attached from inside and

stitching is being done from outside as per
specification.
 After stitching, excess trimming margin is
trimmed off from lining.
 Pre Checks

 Check the quality of previous operation like

skiving and splitting of binding as per
specification.
 Adhesive and reinforcement should be
selected as per specification.
 Cont…….

Adhesive pot should be neat and clean and

must have lid on it.
All the concern tools are required to be kept in
proper place.
 Master pattern/ sample should be taken
against necessary checks.
 In case of using U-binding machine, check for
suitable binding tube.
 Operation Method

• Stitch specified binding on component edge,

either by U-binding machine or in post bed
machine with suitable reinforcement tape.
• Apply suitable adhesive on binding and
component’s edge for turning.
 Cont…

• After proper drying of adhesive, place the

foam (if specified or required) in desired place
and turn the binding on other side (inside).
• Stick the binding on other side of component.

• Attach, stitch and trim the lining.

 Cont……

• In case of using U-binding machine, same

method is going to be followed after stitching
the binding on component.
• In second method the binding is stitched
directly with post bed single needle machine
by marking the component on top line.
• Later the binding is pasted, turned inside and
stitched.
 Cont…

 Then the lining is fixed from inside and

stitching is done from outside as per
specification.
 After stitching, excess trimming margin is
trimmed off by leaving 1.5 mm allowance.
 Quality Standards

 Maintain 1.5 mm distance from the edge

during stitching and stitch should come over
the reinforcement tape (if used).
 Apply smooth coat of suitable adhesive.

 Proper drying time should be given to

adhesive.
 7 ENGLISH BINDING

In this case a strip of binding is stitched over

the edge of the upper in cylinder bed
machine.
The binding could be of leather, fabric or
synthetic.
The binding should be of 0.5 mm to 0.6 mm
thickness.
 Cont….
The strip width can vary but 10 to13 mm for
normal purposes It is also know as slipper
bound edge.
Binding is reinforced most of the time for
extra strength so that binding do not loose it
shape or burst due to too much stretch while
inserting last, last slipping, or during wear.
 Cont…..
This is done by a cylinder arm machine having
a special tube attached to it.
•The selection of tube depends on the binding
width and the thickness of the material + 1
mm seam allowance.
This treatment of top line is moderately strong
and stretch resistant.
 Pre Checks

 Check the quality of previous operation like skiving and splitting

of binding as per specification.

 Adhesive and reinforcement should be selected as per

specification.

 Adhesive pot should be neat and clean and must have lid on it.

 All the concern tools are required to be kept in proper place.

 Check suitable binding tube, during U-binding operation.

 English Binding/U-Binding

• with the binding component in case of binding

is only done on upper quarter.
• Binding can be stitched on lining and upper
top line together as per the design or fashion.

English Binding/U-Binding
English Binding on Quarter
 quality Standards

 Maintain 1.5 mm distance from the edge

during stitching and stitch should come over
the reinforcement tape (if used).
 Apply smooth coat of suitable adhesive for
lining attaching.
 Cont…
 Proper drying time should be given to
adhesive.
 Reinforcement tape should not be twisted
other side during fixing.
 Wrinkles should be avoided during lining
attaching.
 Stitching should come over on both side of
binding.
 summary
 In this unit, we have learned about the English
binding, French binding, Italian binding,
Bagged top line, and Folded edges top line.
 The width of binding should be approximately
15 mm.
 The leather binding should be reduced to
thickness of 0.5 mm to 0.6 mm.
 Cont…….

 The punches must be reinforced in punched

edges.
 The skiving and heat applied is important in
burnished edges as too much heat may scorch
the surface.
 Cont….

The treatment of edges depends on the

choice of the design and economic
consideration.
Normally, in low cost shoe edges are kept raw.
Folding, French binding, English binding, and
bagged top line are given to enhance the
appearance of the shoes.
THANK YOU FOR YOUR
ATTENTION!