Pattern

Pattern is a hard paper on which

different component of garments of a
particular style are sketched according
to the measurement of the garments.
Types of pattern: There are two types of pattern. They are-
1. Working pattern
2. Production pattern
Working pattern: Working pattern is made according to the exact
dimension of particular style without allowance. This is use for
sample making.
Production pattern: Production pattern is made according to the
exact dimension of particular style with allowance. This is used
for garments production.
 Working pattern Production pattern
1. This pattern is made 1. This pattern is made
with net dimension for with net dimension along
particular style with allowance

2. Sample garment is made 2. Production garment is

by this pattern made by this garment

3. This pattern is made on 3. This pattern is made

the basis of basic block according on the basis of
working pattern
 Basic Pattern Set

• A five-piece sloper pattern set,

which represents the dimensions of
a specific form or figure.
• consisting of:
– a front and back bodice,
– a front and back skirt, and
– a long sleeve,
• We will draft this sloper set (&
more!) in this class
What is Pattern Making?
Garment pattern making is the process of
creating templates for cutting fabric, based
on measurements and design sketches, to
ensure proper fit and construction in clothing
production.
Method of pattern making: There are two type of pattern
making. These are:
i. Flat method.
ii. Modeling method.
Flat method: In this method the pattern of different parts of
garments are made by technological drawing by manual or
computerized method. In this method fast pattern is possible.
Modeling method: It is a very old &widely used method. In this
method block made by standard body measurement of dummy is
called toile. Toile is warned out from the body of dummy &
individual pattern is drawn on hard paper. It is very efficient but
higher time is required.
How are patterns made?
– Knock-off
•Tracing the pattern pieces from an existing garment
– Draping
•Using fabric on a dress form to create pattern shapes, which
are transferred to paper.
– Pattern drafting:
•Using measurements taken from a form or model to create
sloper patterns.
•Sloper (“working pattern”): Any pattern used as a base for
manipulation when generating design patterns. It is
developed without design features.
– Flat pattern making:
•Manipulating previously developed sloper patterns to create
design patterns.
 Pattern making Process
Production Marker
First pattern pattern

 The original pattern  The final corrected and

 The arrangement of
developed for designs. error-free version.
 The pattern contains every pattern pieces.
Generally made on  All pattern symbols
marking paper pattern piece required to
complete the garment. are marked on the
 Requires fitting and
 It is used by the grader patterns.
pattern corrections.
for sizing and by the
marker maker for fabric
layout.
 Flat Pattern making Process

Working Pattern
pattern: Pattern plot: manipulation: Test fit: Design
pattern:
•Any pattern used • A process •The finished
Placing lines on a •Slashing and
as a base for traced copy of the where fitting pattern that
spreading or
manipulation working pattern problems are contains all the
pivoting a pattern
when generating relating directly to located and features related
to alter its original
design patterns. the design corrected. to the design.
shape.
features. The lines •The new pattern
are used as shape represents
guidelines for design features of
pattern the garment.
manipulation.
Three Flat Patternmaking
Principles
• #1 Dart manipulation
– (relocating darts)
• #2 Adding fullness
– (adding more fabric in the design)
• #3 Contouring
– (fitting to the hollows of a model's figure)
Principle #1 Dart
Manipulation

• Changing the location of a

dart within the pattern
frame.
• REMEMBER:
– The dart is responsible
for fit
– The dart will ALWAYS be
part of the design in one
form or another
How to Manipulate Darts
• Two methods (same result)
– Pivot
– Slash & spread
• Pivot point:
– Designated point on the pattern
(e.g. bust point).
– Pattern is slashed to, or pivoted
from, this point.
– Allows dart to be moved without
changing the pattern’s size or fit.
• Dart point
• Dart leg
• Dart intake
Dart Terminology
• Dart:
– A wedge-shaped cutout in a pattern to control the fit of a
garment.
• Bust point:
– A designated place on the bust and pattern and referred to in flat
patternmaking as the pivotal point or apex.
• Dart intake:
– The amount of excess (or space) confined between dart legs.
– Its purposes are to take up excess where it is not needed, and to
gradually release fabric where it is needed to control the fit of the
garment.
• Dart legs:
– The two lines that converge at a predetermined point on the
pattern.
Principle #2 Added
Fullness
• Applies when design fullness is
greater than the dart excess can
provide.
• Added fullness is not directed to
the pivotal point (bust).
• Adding to the pattern's outline
also indicates that added material
is needed for the design.
 Principle #3 Contouring

• Fitting to the contour above, below,

and between the bust, leaving the dart
excess to be absorbed into stylelines or
gathers.
• Gapping ease caused by cutout neck
lines and armholes is transferred to be
absorbed.
Principle
Pattern making by CAD
In garments making, different types of modern equipments are
added for ensure the quality of the products day by day. Man
wants to design their pattern by the modern system. For
this man introduced CAD and Digitizing system for
making the pattern design. This system also decrease the
rate of defects of garments.
Design can be created by two ways
• Directly by CAD
• By Digitizing System
Computer Aided design(CAD): Computer Aided
Design (CAD) is the most used system for design. CAD
involve with following tools:
Principles of CAD
• The pattern maker manipulates small graphic patterns on the
computer screen with a “hand held control device”.
• Geometry drivers can make an infinite number of changes to
the shapes and size of the pattern.
• Then creating new design lines or adding“PLEATS”
and seam allowances.
Principles of Digitizing System
• At first the basic pattern (M-size) must
be digitized.
• A sensitized table with a mouse is
attached to the computer.
• The mouse picks-up the lines of
patterns on the table.
• Displayed or shows them on the screen
and modified
it at any time.
• Thus, the whole shape can be adjusted.
Pattern making Tools - Required
• Clear plastic grid ruler Tailor's square (L-square):
– Metal
18” X 2”
– two arms forming a 90° angle
that measures, rules, and
squares simultaneously.

• French curve: • Vary form curve:

– ideal for shaping – blends and shapes
armholes and necklines armholes, necklines,
and other curves
 Patternmaking Tools – Required
• Pattern snips • Awl:
– A sharp pointed tool
that pierces a 1/8
inch hole in patterns.

• Tracing wheels: • Pattern notcher:

– Pointed and blunted – A metal implement with a
wheels that transfer cutting blade that is used to cut
pattern shapes to a 1/4 x 1/16 inch opening at the
paper. pattern's edge.
 Patternmaking Tools—
Required
• Straight pins and pin holder • Stapler, staples, & remover
• Scissors—fabric & paper • “Magic” tape
• Mechanical pencil & eraser • Metal weights
– Pencil - main fabrication • Measuring tape
• Colored pens (Use appropriate • Tailor’s chalk
coding for marking patterns) • Pattern Hooks
– Red - interfacing
– Green -lining
– Purple -
combination
fabric
• Push pins
What is pattern cutting?
In the fashion industry, pattern cutting is the
creation of a basic 2D design on paper that is
the basis for designing a 3D garment. The
pattern format is based on dimensions and
measurements of the human body. In this
article, we guide you through cutting methods
and how to make a professional looking
garment at home.
What is the difference between pattern
cutting and pattern making???
Pattern cutting
techniques
Draping (3D Pattern
Cutting): Flat Pattern
• Originates around 3500 BCE. Cutting:
• Involves shaping fabric into a • Uses paper to create
3D form by folding, twisting, a 2D pattern.
and turning. • Relies on pattern
• Allows for creative expression blocks with standard
by manipulating fabric. measurements.
Computerized Pattern • Faster and more
Cutting (CAD/Gerber): precise than
• Based on flat pattern draping.
cutting techniques. • Can be combined
• Measurements are input with draping for
into a CAD system to complex designs.
generate patterns digitally.
Pattern cutting
techniques
Subtraction Pattern Cutting:
• Removes shapes from flat fabric to create spaces for
the body.
• Focuses on discovery and spontaneity, without relying
on precise measurements.
Zero Waste Pattern Cutting:
• A sustainable technique where no fabric is wasted.
• Works best with rectangular fabric and boxy designs.
• Similar to subtraction cutting, as fabric geometry
influences design.
• A growing and evolving method that emphasizes
sustainability.
How to Take Body Measurements?

Even if you are purchasing existing body data in

order to create your patterns, you’ll likely still
be fitting on fit models, so it’s important to
know how to manually take measurements. To
start with, you’ll need to make sure you have
the right tools.

•Flexible measuring tape (the longer the better -

especially if working in tall or plus sizes).
•A second flexible measuring tape with a hook
and eyes or snaps or a string or ribbon to mark
the natural waist.
•A digital or physical copy of a measurement
sheet like this one to track and notate the
measurements.
What are the Most Important Measurements for
Pattern Making?

Our key measurements are different depending on the

type of garment you’re planning to make. Before we can
talk about them, let’s get some common acronyms out of
the way.

CB - Center Back: refers to the center back of a garment

or body, along the spine.
CF - Center Front: refers to the center front of a garment
or body from the hollow at the bottom of the neck straight
down.
HPS - High Point Shoulder: refers to the top point of the
shoulder on either side of the neck.
Tops and Dresses
•Full Bust/Chest
•Full Hip
•Across Shoulder
•HPS to Apex
•CB Neck to Waist
•CF Neck to Waist
•Waist to Hip Length
•Additional measurements for dresses only:
•CB neck to floor
•CF neck to floor
•`
Bottoms
•Full Hip
•High Hip
•Waist
•Total Rise
•Thigh
•Inseam
•The measurement of the neck, we should
measure accurately from the centre of the
buttonhole to the end of the button.
•Then the measurement of chest, we have to
measure below from the arm hole measure
around the fullest part of chest.
•After that the measurement of waist, we should
measure that from 1″ below to the navel.
•At last the measurement of sleeve length, we
have to measure that from shoulder end to the
end of the sleeve.
Regular Body Measurement for Gents and Ladies:
We know that as previous discussion standard body measurements is classify as
regular size and tall size. For body structure variation, regular body size is applied
on Asian reason and tall body size is applied on Europe people.
Body measurements of Gents
 THE BODICE BLOCK

A basic bodice block is a great starting point for most patterns

involving your top half – it can be used to make tops and dresses,
and paired with a sleeve block can be used to make shirts, blazers,
jackets and coats. Many patterns evolve from this block. So if you
are ready to start making your own patterns, then a bodice block to
your specific measurements is a great place to start.
Bodice Block Pattern Making/Drafting Diagram
How to Take Female Body Measurements?

1. Circumference for form and model

measurements
a) Bust (1).
It is measured across bust points and back.
b) Waist (2).
It is around waist.
c) Abdomen (3).
Basically, three inches below waist.
d) Hip (4).
While measuring this, measure the widest area
with tape parallel with floor. Pin to mark hip
level at center front (referred to as X-point).
. Horizontal arc for form and model measurements
Front
a) Across shoulder (14).
It covers shoulder tip to center front neck.
b) Across chest (15).
It is center front to 1 inch above mid-armhole (pinhead mark).
c) Bust arc (17).
It comprise of center front, over bust point, ending 2 inches below
armplate at side seam.
d) Bust span (10).
To measure this, place tape across bust points; divide in half for
measurement.
e) Waist arc (19).
Measure center front waist to side waist seam.
f) Dart placement (20).
Measure center front to side front (princess line).
g) Abdomen arc (22).
Consider center front to side seam, starting 3 inches
down from waist.
h) Hip arc (23).
Center front to side seam on HBL line.
i) Hip depth (25).
Figure: Circumference for form and mode
Center front to HBL line.
measurements
Back
a) Back neck (12).
It consists of center back neck to shoulder at neck.
b) Across shoulder (14).
Consider shoulder tip to center back neck.
c) Across back (16).
Measure center back to 1 inch above the mid-armhole at ridge
of pinhead.
d) Back arc (18).
Center back to bottom of arm plate.
e) Waist arc (19).
Measure center back waist to side waist seam.
f) Dart placement (20).
Consider center back waist to side back (princess line).
g) Abdomen arc (22).
Center back to side seam, starting 3 inches down from waist.
h) Hip arc (23).
Center back to side seam on HBL line.
i) Hip depth (25).
Center back waist to HBL line.
3. Vertical measurements for form and model
a) Side length (11).
Pin mark below armplate at side seam to side
waist.
b) Shoulder length (13).
Shoulder tip to neck.
c) Side hip depth (26).
Side waist to HBL, on side of form being
measured.
d) Bust radius (9).
Measure from bust point ending under bust
mound to rib above.

Front and Back—Form and Mode

a) Center length (5).
Mark neck to waist (over bridge).
b) Full length (6).
Waist to shoulder at neck, parallel with center
lines.
c) Shoulder slope (7). Figure: Vertical measurements for form and
Center line at waist to the shoulder tip (mark). model
d) Bust depth (9).
Shoulder tip to bust point.
Front and Back—Form and Mode
a) Center length (5).
Mark neck to waist (over bridge).
b) Full length (6).
Waist to shoulder at neck, parallel with
center lines.
c) Shoulder slope (7).
Center line at waist to the shoulder tip
(mark).
d) Bust depth (9).
Shoulder tip to bust point.
Figure: Front and Back—Form and
Mode
 Drafting the Basic Skirt Pattern
Now that you have all the numbers, you can start by
Measurements drafting a rectangle where the width is your half hip
To draft this pattern, you’ll need these measurement +ease and the height is the total length of
measurements: the skirt. Mark the hip level using your waist to hip
•waist measurement. Like this:
•hip
•distance from waist to hip
•total length of the skirt: waist to knee for basic
skirt block
Divide the first two measurements (waist and
hip circumference) in half, because the pattern
only covers half of the total circumference.
Then add 1cm (0.39in.) of ease to the hip
measurement.
In my example I’m using the size M
measurements, so
–waist: 72cm /2 =36cm (28.34in. /2 =14.17in.)
–hip: 96cm /2 =48cm +1cm of ease= 49cm
(37.8in. /2= 18.9in. +0.39in. =19.29in.)
–waist to hip: 20cm (7.87in.)
–total length of the skirt: 58cm (22.8in.)
 The idea is to take off about 2/3 of the difference at the side seam. In
this example, 8cm (3.14in.) divided between the front and back side
seam, which makes it 4cm (1.57in.) per side.
 The remaining amount will go into the darts, which I placed in the
middle of both the front and back waist lines. The back dart will be
larger than the front dart because we have a hollow area at the back
waist.
 The wider the dart is, the longer it will be. In the drawing above, you
can see how I divided the remaining 5cm/1.97in. between the darts.
If it looks like your darts will become too wide, you can also draw two
darts in the back.
 The back dart is a bit smaller and the
side seam of the back piece a bit more
straight (which looks better). So I took
that 1cm (0.39in.) off at the centre
back instead. As mentioned earlier,
that’s usually a hollow area.
4. Measure 0.5cm inward at the upper left corner
and square down 1cm. Unite this point to the
hipline to create the c.front line of the pants.
Measure 4cm inward at the upper right corner.
Draw a line from the hipline to this point, and
continue 2.5cm upwards, as shown in the picture.
This is the c.back line.
5. Continue the c.front and c.back lines down by
adding the crotch curve. The front should be only
slightly curved, whereas the back crotch curve
should be deeper.
6. Now you can draw the waistline: calculate ½
waist measurement/2 + 1.5cm for the front, and ½
waist measurement/2 + 0.5cm for the back.
For example: 37cm/2 = 18.5cm +1.5cm = 20cm
(front) and 37cm/2 = 18.5cm + 0.5cm = 19cm
(back).
These measurements take into account a 2cm wide
dart that will be placed at the back..
Both waistlines end along the horizontal line you
draw in the beginning.
7. Unite the waistline to the hipline with a straight
line, both front and back. We’ll draw the hip curve
later
8. You know how classic pants have a crease in the middle of the leg? Well, that is called
the crease line. It’s also the grainline of the pants.
To find out where it is, measure the distance between points A and B along the crotchline of
the front piece, and divide it in half. Square up and down to complete the crease
line/grainline.
Then measure the distance between the side seam and the crease line of the front piece, and
use the same measurement for the back piece.

9. Next, let’s draw the hemline of the pants. The front side is slightly smaller than the back,
because the calf needs more space. So decide on the hemline circumference and divide it in
two.
In this example, for size M pants, the total circumference is 46cm (for reference). So,
divided in two, it’s 23cm.
For the front, detract 1cm. For the back, add 1cm. Mark the hemline width evenly on both
sides of the grainline.

Here, the front hemline is 22cm, 11cm on both sides of the grainline. The back hemline is
24cm, 12cm on both sides of the grainline.
10. Starting from the inseam of the front piece,
first unite the hemline to the crotch point with a
straight line. Then enter 1cm at the knee level
and mark the point.

11. Draw the final inseam of the front piece:

draw a straight line from ankle to knee level and
then a slightly inward curved line to complete
the inseam at the crotch point.
12. As for the side seam, draw again a straight line from ankle
to knee level, and then continue with a slightly curved line as
shown in the picture; first an inward curve, then outward.

13. Now, use the kneeline measurement of the front piece

again. Just add 1cm and sign guide marks on both sides of the
grainline at the knee level of the back piece.

14. Add a 10cm long, 2cm wide dart in the middle of the back
waist.

15. Finally, draft the waistline curves. The waistline should start
in a right-angle both at the c.front and c.back.
What is Style?

Basically, style can be defined in many ways, but

broadly, when it means to be stylish is to be yourself.
Truly stylish individualities are able to express their
personalities, tastes, and preference to occasion with
the help of clothes, grooming, communication, and
overall presence as well as attire. Style is something
that is unique nature to everyone. Style is specifically
the person’s own choice and preference in clothes,
accessories, etc. Style is not purely dependent on
clothing; it can be co-related to anything that makes the
person look stylish and amazing.
 Collars
Following along with the pattern, after last time the next step is to
attach the collar, followed by the cuffs. The top we are creating calls
for the use of three pattern pieces, resulting in five fabric pieces begin
cut. There are several different types and styles of collars for garments,
some that require more pieces, and some that require less. Each can
completely change the look or style of the garment you are creating.
Let me quickly discuss a few collar types before getting into the
construction for the Grainline Studios top.
 Tailored shirt
collar –
 Convertible collar
 Peter Pan collar –
 Mandarin collar –
 Tie collar –
 Notched collar –
 Turtleneck collar –
 Shawl collar –
Lower the basic neckline 1 cm at the shoulder, 1.5
cm at the centre front and 0.5 cm at the centre back.
Draw the new neckline perpendicular to the centre
back. Mark the collar insert point 1 cm away from
the centre front. Measure the lowered neckline on the
front and back pattern from the centre back to the
collar insert point. Draw a horizontal line with the
same length as the lowered neckline minus 0.5 cm.
From the starting point, measure 3.5 cm for the collar
roll, 4 cm for the collar stand, 0.5 cm for the collar
break line and 5.5 cm for the collar width upward.
Raise the collar front 0.7 cm and measure 3.5 cm
from this point to the left for the collar point. Draw
the collar front edge 10 cm wide. Plot the collar and
the collar stand as shown in the illustration. Start the
collar stand 3 cm away from the front edge. Draw the
cutting lines as shown.
Copy the collar and the
collar stand. Blend the
seamlines. Check the
collar for sufficient length
at the outer edge.
Depending on the
material, add around 0.4
cm roll width to the
upper collar. Check all
seam transitions and
mark the grainline
What is a marker efficiency?
Marker efficiency is defined as a ratio of area of marker
used in a garment and area of total marker.

Secondly, Glock and Kunz have defined this term in their

book, Apparel Manufacturing as Marker efficiency is
determined from fabric utilization, the percentage of total
fabric that is actually used in garment parts.

Note: Marker efficiency and Fabric utilization is not same

thing. In marker efficiency calculation fabric wastage due
to end bits and end loss is not included but in fabric
utilization calculation all kinds of fabric wastage are
included.
How to calculate Marker Efficiency?
The calculation method of marker efficiency has been explained below with formula.

Formula#1

Marker efficiency% = (Area of marker used for garments / Area of total marker) * 100
Area of marker used for garments: In case of CAD marker, CAD system automatically calculates
the total area of garment pattern pieces placed in a marker. So you get the area of marker that is
consumed by garments from a CAD system.

Total Marker Area: To calculate the total marker area simply multiply marker length by marker
width.

 In a manual marker, it is difficult to measure the

surface area of garments patterns in a marker. You can
use a mechanical device, Planimeter, to calculate the
surface area of pattern pieces from outlines of the
pattern pieces.
Another method can be practiced to calculate marker efficiency when you don’t
have CAD system or Panimeter. Calculate ratio of weight of fabric consumed
by pattern pieces and total weight fabric under total marker area. So a separate
formula is used to find marker efficiency.

Formula#2

Marker efficiency% = (Weight of fabric consumed by patterns pieces in a

marker / Total weight of fabric under the marker area)*100

Weight of garment parts: To calculate the weight of garment parts cut one
layer of fabric according to markers and weigh all garment parts that are
included in a marker.

Weight of marker total area: Measure the weight of fabric (one layer) of total
marker area.