MANIKYA LAL VERMA TEXTILE &

ENGNEERING COLLEGE BHILWARA

 TOPIC: - GENERAL INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE FIBRES

AND CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES.
 SUBMITTED TO :- MR. V.K. GUPTA SIR
 GROUP MEMBER NAME :- ABHISHEK VAISHNAV,
AAKASH ,ABHISHEK PARMAR, BHAVESH, AJAY SINGH,
ANSH, DEEPAK SINGH RAWAT, ANKIT JAT, BHUMIKA .
KEYWORDS
 SOME BASIC DEFINATION

FIBERS

DEFINITION : A fibre is a material which is several hundred times as long as it is

thick.
(length/diameter=100)

TEXTILE FIBRE :
“Units of matter characterized by flexibility , fineness and a high ratio of length to
thickness. ”
(The length/diameter ratio is atleast 1000/1 .)

ABHISHEK PARMAR
 TEXTILE FIBRE

Textile fibres are the materials of natural or artificial origin

which can be converted into yarn and fabric for clothing and also
for domestic and industrial purposes.
FIBRE TYPICAL TYPICAL LENGTH/
LENGTH(mm) DIAMETER DIAMETER
(micro)

COTTON 25 17 1500

WOOL 75 25 3000

FLAX 25 20 1250

RAMIE 150 50 3000

 FILAMENTS

A filament is a very long fibre. The length of

filament may range from a few hundred meters ,
as in case of silk, to several kilometers in the case
of man-made fibres. The thickness of filaments
tends to be similar to that of fibres.
Classification of Textile fibre on the basis of source

ANSH CHOUDHARY
 Sources of fibres
All fibres are broadly classified into natural, regenerated, or synthetic. The natural fibres are
vegetable, animal or mineral in origin. Also, there are manufactured fibres, which are produced
chemically from vegetable sources or animal sources. The synthetic fibres are manufactured
from petroleum or coal-tar sources.

SOURCES OF CELLULOSIC FIBRES :-

In the complex designs and structure of the plants, nature has used fibres as the basis of strength
providing skeleton. Bundles of fibres bound together by natural gums or resins run through the
roots, stems, fruits and leaves of plants. These strands of fibres are associated with varying
amounts of other natural substances such as lignin, pectin, hemicelluloses, gums, waxes and
colouring matters. The total carbohydrate material is usually designated as holocellulose. The
amount of these associated substances and the ease with which fibres can be separated from
them determine the utility of the fibre as textile material.
SEED HAIR FIBRES :-
The seed hairs like cotton contains cellulose with very less non- cellulosic substances (4-12%).
This makes purification most simpler than for most of other cellulosic fibres. Other seed fibres
are kapok and bombax cotton. These fibres contain 55-65% cellulose.
BAST FIBRES :-
The bast fibres are long fibres of the outer bark of various plants which strengthen
the stem of the plant. They include flax, hemp, jute, ramie, kenaf, sunn etc. The
fibres are integrated with natural gum in the plant structure. The fibres are
separated by removal of the gums and the process is generally known as retting.

LEAF FIBRES :-
Many of the cellulosic fibres like sisal hemp, manila hemp are also obtained from
the leaves of the plants. The fibres extend longitudinally the full length of the leaf
and contribute strength to the leaves. The fibres are buried in tissues of the leaves
and can be separated from the tissue by scrapping since there is no bonding
between the fibre and the tissue. This process is known as "decortication'.
HUSK OR FRUIT FIBRES :-
The husks of Coconut betelnut and palmnut which protect the fruit for
development can be processed and utilised as fibres. After removal of the fruit, the
husk can be extracted, retted and processed.
SOURCES OF CELLULOSE :-

Cellulose also occurs in many materials as non-fibrous form. The substances

containing cellulose are as follows :-
a) WOOD
b) GRASSES
c) AGRICULTURAL WASTES
d) CELLULOSE FROM NON-VEGETABLE SOURCES

SOURCES OF SYNTHETIC FIBRES :-

The main sources for formation of synthetic fibres are:

(1) petroleum (2) natural gas deposits
SOURCES OF PROTEIN FIBRES :-
Proteins are naturally occuring compounds in the tissues of plants and animals. Protein fibres are
generally occured as epitherial growth as hair or animal secretion. Wool is the most important
hair fibre, which makes up the fleece of domestic sheep. Some of the important hair fibres are :-
(a) Wool : from sheep
(b) Mohair : from angara goat
(c) Cashmere : from cashmere goat
(d) Camel hair : from camel
(e) Rabbit fur : from rabbit
(f) Horse hair : from horse
(g) Alpaca, llama : from llama

SOURCES OF PROTEIN :-
Protein can be obtained from animal or vegetable sources, as it is the essential consituent of the
tissues of plants and animals. There are many proteins present in plants and animals. However,
there are only three proteins i.e., arachin, zein and glycinin from vegetable sources and casein
from animal sources that are commercially exploited for fibre preparation.
Vegetable fibres

AJAY SINGH
SOME FIBRES ARE
 Classification of Textile fibre on basis of origin

Textile fibre

Polyester
PAN
Cellulosic Modified cellulosic Polyamide
PVA
Modacrylic
Sem Polyolefin
i Nat
Nat synt ural Polyurathene
ural heti pol Synt
Cott c Misc ym heti
Visc Nat c
on ella ural er
Flax ose neo Nylo
Jute rayo us
Woo Vica n 66
Hem n Algi l ra Nylo
p Cupr nate Silk Ardi n6
Ram a l
ie rayo Cas
n ein

AJA Y SINGH
 PROPERTIES OF TEXTILE FIBRES
• Staple Length
• Tensile Strength
• Elasticity
• Uniformity
• Spinnability
ESSENTIAL
• Crimp
• Density
• Absorbency
• Resilience
• Colour
• Luster
• Porosity or capillarity
DESIRABLE
• Static electrical resistance
 ESSENTIAL PROPERTY
Length & Length Variation
Length is an important parameter which determines the usefulness of
textile fibers. The fibre must be long and fine enough. The length must
be considerably higher (1000 times) then the width of the fibre. Longer
the fibre, stronger & finer is the yarn. Most apparel fibres, range in
length from about 15mm-150mm & 10µm-50µm in thickness.

Uniformity
There should be limited variation in length and diameter between fibre
to fibre. So that uniform threads or yarn can be produced. The more
uniform the yarn, more stronger the yarn.
DEEPAK SINGH
RAWAT
 Tensile Strength

Strength of any material is determined by the breaking strength which is

expressed as force per unit cross-sectional area. The tensile strength when
expressed as force per unit linear density is called tenacity.
The load required to break the fibre is called breaking load, expressed in
terms of grams per denier(gpd)\ grams per tex(gpt). The strength of the
fabric is more influenced by the strength of the fibre present in it.
In case of describing the strength of individual fiber the term tenacity is
generally used.
TENACITY OF SOME FIBRES

Fiber Grams Per Denier

Raw cotton 3.0 - 4.9
Jute 3.0 - 5.8
Flax 2.6 - 7.7
Ramie 5.5
Silk 2.4 - 5.1
Wool 1.1 - 1.7
Hemp 5.8 - 6.8
 Elasticity
The ability of any material to regain original shape after being deformed by application of
force.

The textile material should have a higher elasticity i.e. higher recovery from deformation.

Elasticity is generally influenced by three factor:

 The extent of stretch.
 Time during which material is kept in stretch condition.
 Time provided to recover.

NOTE: Tenacity alone is not sufficient to form an opinion about the strength of the fibre. The
fibre should also have good elasticity so as to enable it to withstand sudden impacts & not to
break easily when it is bent or pulled.
 Spinnability

It indicates that the individual fiber must be capable of being converted into a
yarn and then into a fabric with sufficient strength. For better Spinnability the
fiber must have better cohesiveness i.e. fiber must hold together to prevent
slippage.

External scales in wool & twist & irregularity in cotton fibre contributes to the
ability of such fibres to hold together.

In case of man-made (fibre) manufacturing process, it indicates whether a

continuous filament can be produced from a viscous material by extrusion, &
the filament can be solidified.
 DESIRABLE PROPERTY
Crimp: It is the waviness of fibre. Natural quality of wool fibre. It is measured by
the difference between the length of the crimped fibre at rest and the length of the
same fibre when it is stretched until it is perfectly straight.

Density: It is mass per unit volume, expressed in gram per centimeter cube. For
some fibre true density is very difficult to determine & specific gravity is generally
preferred. Specific gravity is the ratio of the mass weighed in air to the mass of an
equal volume of water at 4°C.

Moisture absorbency: Amount of moisture present expressed as the percentage

of their original weight of fiber or its oven dry weight. The fibre that absorbs
moisture are more comfortable than those with low absorbency, especially in hot
humid weather.
BHUMIKA RATHORE
Colour: Most natural fibres have some colures. For e.g.
A) Silk is yellow to tan.
B) Cotton is creamy white.
C) Wool is brownish.
Therefore, they must be bleached or boiled by some chemical processes to
produce white fibre.

 Lusture: Generally a certain amount of lusture is desirable.

It depends on the amount of light reflected form a fibre surface.

Resilience: It is the springing back or recovery of a fibre when it is released from

the state of deformation. This is a desirable property of filling fibres for pillows &
mattresses.
Static Electrical Resistance: This creates a problem in the spinning &
other processing methods of textile fibres especially in rooms with low
RH. The problem is more severe in case of synthetic fibres which have
low electrical conductivity & low moisture.

Porosity: Accept or hold a dye, a finish (or a lubricant). Liquids

passes rapidly through small cracks or breaks in the outer surface of a
fibre bringing about absorption of a liquid through porosity.
ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF NATURAL AND AN MADE FIBRE
NATURAL FIBRE
ADVANTAGES:-
 Biodegradable
• Natural fibres decompose naturally and don’t contribute to environmental
pollution.
 Breathable
 Natural fibres allow heat to escape from your skin, making them a good choice
for summer clothing.
Comfortable
Natural fibres are breathable and have some stretch, allowing you to move around
easily.
 Sustainable
Natural fibres require less energy to manufacture, absorb CO2, and emit O2 during
cultivation. AAKASH JANGID
Ethical
Natural fibers from sustainable sources can be more ethical than synthetic
fibers, which are often produced in countries with low wages and few
environmental regulations.
Gentle on skin
Natural fibers are gentle on your skin, making them a good choice for
people with sensitive skin, eczema, and sensory processing disorders.
Long-lasting
Natural fibers tend to last longer, so you don’t need to replace them as
often.
 Electrical resistance
Natural fibers have electrical resistance properties. Thermal and insulating
 DISADVANTAGE
1. Moisture absorption
2. Poor wetability
3. Low thermal degradation
temperature
4. Low chemical resistance.
5. Cost
6. Shrinkage
7. Moth damage
8. Poor mechanical properties
9. POOR IMPREGNATION
10.Void content
ADVANTAGES & DIADVANTAGES OF MAN
MADE FIBRES

 Cost  Skin reactions

 Durability  Electrostatic charging
 Water resistance  Non-biodegradable
 Wrinkle resistance Melting and burning
 Elasticity Uncomfortable
 Maintenance  Require attention while
 Chemical resistance ironing
Adaptability  Not heat resistant
 POLYMERIZATION
MONOMER POLYMER
POLYMERIZATION
{ONE UNIT} {MANY UNIT}

The basic unit of the textile fibre is a molecule, also

known as monomer.
Many of these basic units are connected to form long
chain which are called polymer.
ABHISHEK VAISHNAV
Polymerization :- : The process of chemically joining
monomers to form polymer is called polymerisation.
And the length of such chains is referred as the DEGREE
OF POLYMERISATION.

NOTE :-The chemical/ hydrocarbons extracted from

petroleum, natural gas or coal tar are used as a raw
material for conversion into monomer
 DEGREE OF POLYMERIZATION
 Number of monomer joined together or in chain is
known as degree of polymerization.
 For example :-
 Cotton = 5000 { D.P.}
 IT means cotton fabric contain 5000 basic units and
basic unit of cotton is cellubiose.
 Viscose = 350 {D.P.}
 Means 350 cellubiobe unit in viscose fibre are joines in
one chain at viscose fibre.
 Types of Polymer
• Polymer : It is formed from same monomers .
• Copolymer : If the polymer is formed from two or more
different monomers , it is called a copolymer .
• Grafted polymer : If side chains , side groups or branches
are grafted onto a polymer , it is called grafted polymer .
Monomer : Or Or
Polymer :
Copolymer :
Grafted polymer:

Types of polymerization
Addition polymerization:- When same type of monomer
are synthesized and no molecules are removed during
polymerization . This method of polymerization is known as
addition polymerization..
Condensation Polymerization :- When polymer are formed by
condensation of monomer . In this a small molecules like H2O,NH3 ,
are removed during polymerization. This method is known as
condensation polymerization.
 REQUIREMENTS OF FIBRE FORMING POLYMERS

Hydrophilic

Chemically resistant

Linear

Long

Orientation

Able to form high melting point polymer system

The polymer system of commonly used apparel fibres like cotton , wool ,
silk , flax , viscose , acetate ,
nylon , polyester and acrylic consists of polymers which do meet the
above requirements to a very large extent.
On the other hand , Man-made fibres such as PE , PP and chloro-fibres
are restricted in their apparel use because they do not satisfactorily
meet the 1st , 5th & 6th requirements listed above.
Natural cellulosic fibres such as coir , hemp , ramie , jute , kenaf and sisal
have very restricted apparel use because they are very stiff . (Their
polymers are far too well oriented.)
Cashmere & mohair are relatively rare , so they are expensive and rarely
used .
 PROPERTIES

HYDROPHILIC PROPERTIES: This means that the polymer should be

polar , enabling them to attract water molecules.
*comfortable to wear
*static electricity is discharged to the surrounding
atmosphere

CHEMICALLY RESISTANT : For a reasonable length of time against

the common degrading agents such as sunlight and weather ,
common types of soiling , body exudation , laundry liquors and dry-
cleaning solvents.
•LINEARTY : Fibre polymer should be linear (i.e. not branched)
only linear polymer allows adequate polymer alignment to
bring into effect sufficient interpolymer forces of attraction to
give a cohesive polymer system and hence , useful textile fibre.

•LENGTH : Fibre polymer should be long(more than 100nm) . So

that they can readily be oriented .

Longer the polymers More cohesive

The polymer system Stronger the fibre
 ORIENTATION
AMORPHOUS & CRYSTALLINE REGIONS

In amorphous region the polymers are arranged or

aligned at random , i.e. display no particular order of
arrangement.

In crystalline region the polymers are arranged or

aligned longitudinally into more or less parallel order.
 Forms of orientation
AMORPHOUS & CRYSTALLINE REGIONS
• MORE AMORPHOUS FIBRES ARE • MORE CRYSTALLINE FIBRES
ARE
a) More absorbent
a) Less absorbent
b) Weaker b) Stronger
c) Less durable c) More durable
d) More easily degraded by d) Less degraded by chemicals
chemicals e) Less dyed
e) More easily dyed f) Less pliable , stiffer handle
f) More pliable , softer handle g) Resist being distorted , less
plastic
g) More easily distorted , plastic
 INTERPOLYMER FORCES
OF
ATTRACTION
VANDERWAAL’S FORCE OF ATTRACTION

HYDROGEN BONDING

IONIC BONDING

COVALENT BONDING BHAVESH TAILOR

 VANDER WAAL’S FORCE

Vander Waal’s Forces are the weak forces which contribute

to intermolecular bonding between molecules.
 HYDROGEN BONDING

.A hydrogen bond occur between positively charged hydrogen

atoms in one polymer and negatively charged oxygen , nitrogen
and fluorine atoms in an adjacent polymer
 COVALENT BOND

A covalent bond, also called a molecular bond, is a chemical bond that

involves the sharing of electron pairs between atoms. These electron
pairs are known as shared pairs or bonding pairs.
Examples : disulphide bond of wool .
 IONIC BONDING

Ionic bonding is the complete transfer of valence electron(s) between atoms. It is a

type of chemical bond that generates two oppositely charged ions. It is stronger
than hydrogen bonds or van der Waal’s forces . They occur principally in wool and
polyamide fibres and are also called salt links(as they are the fundamental bond in
chemical salts).
 Properties of fibres

Fibre tenacity
Elastic plastic nature of fibre
Hygroscopic nature
Thermal properties
Chemical properties
ANKIT JAT
 FIBRE TENACITY
Fibre tenacity is in general directly related to the length of its polymers ,
degree of polymer orientation and no. and types of interpolymer forces
of attraction formed between polymers . Thus,

the longer the polymers

more crystalline can be their orientation

stronger may be the interpolymer forces of attraction formed

stronger the fibre
ELASTIC PLASTIC NATURE OF FIBRES

A fibre with a crystalline polymer system tends to be stiff and inflexible due to
restricted polymer movement . Excessive bonding & stretching of such a fibre tends
to cause polymer rupture (create weak region).

HYGROSCOPIC NATURE
Hygroscopic
] nature of a fibre is directly related to the polarity of its polymers and
the ratio of its amorphous and crystalline regions .
A hygroscopic or absorbent fibre tends to have a predominantly amorphous
polymer system of polar polymers; polar polymers attract water molecules , while
the amorphous nature allows entry of the water molecules into the polymer
system .
 THERMAL PROPERTY
Important thermal property is the temperature at which it may soften and begin to
melt . This is a relative measure of the fibre’s heat resistant (to which extent fibres
can be safely heated ) . The softening and melting point temp. of a fibre are related
to the crystallinity of the polymer system ,

Hence more heat or K.E. will be required to freepolymers from each other.

Greater resistance to heat (as well as)

Softening & melting at higher temperature

 CHEMICAL PROPERTY
• This gives an indication of the extent to which the polymers of a fibre may react with
the common degrading agents such as the alkalis of laundering liquors , acids ,
atmospheric pollution , soiling , sunlight , etc.

A fibre chemical properties the ratio of amorphous to

ARE DIRECT INFLUENCED BY
crystalline region

Fibre with a more crystalline more resistant than

TEND TO CHEMICALLY
fibres with a more amorphous

More crystalline fibres make it very difficult for dye molecules to enter their polymer
system of the fibre
THANK YOU