Unit Two: Diagnose Faults Of The Unit

This learning guide is developed to provide you the necessary

information regarding the following content coverage and topics:
systematic pre-testing procedure
Conduct complete check-up of Micro Wave oven
Identify system defect/fault symptoms.
 test instruments with user manuals
Proper troubleshooting procedures.
Check isolated Circuits using specified testing procedures.
Explain identify defects and faults.
Checking control settings/adjustments.
Documenting results of diagnosis and testing.
Advising/informing Customers.
• This guide will also assist you to attain the learning
outcomes stated in the cover page. Specifically, upon
completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
• Observe systematic pre-testing procedure
• Conduct complete check-up of Micro Wave oven
• Identify system defect/fault symptoms.
• apply test instruments with user manuals
• Implement proper troubleshooting procedures.
• Check isolated Circuits using specified testing procedures.
• Identify defects and faults.
• Check control settings/adjustments.
• Documenting results of diagnosis and testing.
• Advising/informing Customers.
 Observing systematic pre-testing procedure

How to Test an Oven Element

Oven elements, also known as heating elements, are the coils
on the top and bottom of your electric oven that heat up and
glow red when you turn your oven on. If your oven isn’t
turning on or there’s something wrong with the temperature
in the oven when you cook, the problem may be a faulty
heating element. Perform a continuity test on your heating
elements with a multi-meter to determine if the elements are
working correctly. This assesses whether the element is
properly receiving electrical signals from your oven. Other
basic tests include physically inspecting the coils and cross-
checking the temperature with an oven thermometer.
1. Testing an Element with a Multi-meter
 2. Unplug the oven and let it cool if necessary
• A multi-meter test assesses continuity in an element and will tell
you whether your heating element is working or not. You cannot
test a heating element safely without removing it, and you
cannot remove it when the oven is hot or on. If you were just
using the oven, turn the oven off and wait 30-60 minutes for the
oven to cool. Then, pull it out from the wall and unplug it.[1]
• You may seriously injure yourself if you test an oven element
while the oven is on.
• If your oven is fixed into the wall, flip the appropriate fuse on
your fuse box to turn the breakers for the room off.
• While oven elements look different, they are almost always a
single loop of metal. A continuity test sends an electrical signal
down one end of the coil and assesses how accurately and
successfully the signal reaches the other end of the coil.
 3. Identify the heating elements in your oven at the
top and bottom.
• The heating elements are the big coils at the top and
bottom of your oven. Open your oven door and remove the
metal racks. Then, look at the very bottom of the oven and
look for a 0.5–1 in (1.3–2.5 cm) thick metal coil that loops
around the bottom of the oven. This is your main heating
element. Next, look at the roof of your oven’s interior. If
you have a broiler, there will be a second coil attached to
the top of the oven.[2]
• Heating elements come in different shapes and sizes, but
the overall steps are the same regardless of your make or
model.
• The heating element is black or gray when the oven is off.
When the oven is on, these elements glow orange
 4. Remove the heating element that you want to test.
• Then, look for a panel connecting the element to the back of
the oven. Use a screwdriver to remove the screw on this panel.
Next, gently pull the element out 2–4 inches (5.1–10.2 cm) to
expose the element’s terminals, which are the 2 pieces of metal
that are connected to 2 wires. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers
to gently slide the metal brackets at the end of each wire out of
the element’s terminals. Lift your element out of the oven.[3]
• Most ovens have 2 heating elements—one on top for the
broiler and one on the bottom for the oven. You can test either
element, but you must remove it from the appliance.
• Elements may be shaped differently from model to model, but
the overall process is the same for every element. Some
elements have more than 1 screw on the plate holding the
terminals in place.
 5. Turn the dial on your multi-meter to the lowest
ohms (Ω) setting.
• Plug the red cord into the red slot and your black cord into the
black slot on the face of your multi-meter. Turn the device on.
Then, turn the dial on your multi-meter so that it is set to ohms,
which is the unit of measurement used to measure electrical
resistance. Use the lowest number available in your ohm range,
which is usually 200 ohms, to test your heating elements.
• Every multi-meter is different. Some have digital menus, while
others us a rotating dial. Consult your multi-meter’s instruction
manual if you can’t figure out how to set it to test ohms.
• The other multi-meter settings include voltage (V), which
basically measures the power of a current, resistance (mAVΩ),
which measures how a current is throttled by a material, and
current (A), which is the rate, or speed, of an electrical signal.
 6. Place your heating element on the floor or a
wooden table.

• You may electrocute yourself if you perform a

continuity test with the item on a metal or
ungrounded surface, which is why you removed
the heating element in the first place. Put the
heating element on the ground to make things
easy. Alternatively, a concrete or wood surface
that is grounded will work as well.[6]
 7.Calibrate the multi-meter by touching the metal
probes together.
Before you test your heating element, make sure that your
multi-meter is registering electrical signals correctly. To do
this, simply touch the metal probe on the end of your red wire
to the metal probe on the end of your black wire. The probes
are the little metal prongs sticking out the end of each wire. If
the number on your screen is lower than 1.0, your wires are
functioning correctly. If the number is higher than 1.0, try
cleaning the terminals on your wires and testing again.[7]
• The higher the number on the multi-meter screen, the greater
the difference between the input signal and the output signal.
If it helps, imagine the multi-meter’s probes like 2 ends of a
pipe. The number on the screen is how much water leaks out
of the pipe when the water is running.
• If the number on your screen is higher than 1.0 and
you’ve already cleaned your terminals, replace the
wires for your multi-meter—they aren’t picking up
signals correctly.
• If the number on the screen is 0 or 0.1, your
terminals are in really good shape and you’ll get a
very accurate reading. Digital multi-meters will
usually beep when an electrical signal has
continuity
8. Touch the probes to the terminals on your
element. Without touching the oven element
with your hands, put the metal probe on your
red wire against one of the metal terminals on
your heating element.
9. Interpret the results on the screen to see if
the continuity is 0-50 ohms. Once your multi-
meter beeps or the number stops moving up
and down, read the number on your screen. If
it 0 or less than 1.0, your element has perfect
continuity.
 Identify the cause Symptom Fault

Symptom - signs or indications that there is a deviation from the

normal operating mode.
• Fault – the particular defect or combination of defects that cause
the symptom to occur.
• Cause – the reason why a fault has occurred.
• Symptom (overheating)
• Fault (worn bearing)
• Cause (poor lubrication)
• Sensory (visual) fractures, surface cracks, corrosion, leaks, damage,
contaminated oils, loose fastenings, excessive wear, metallic
particles, broken chains and belts, missing parts.
• Sensory (smell) Smell- hot oil, burnt out motor, burnt out belts,
overheating.
• Sensory (Touch) Touch - vibration, wear, play, belt or chain tension,
out of balance, excessive clearance.
 Fault detection and fault diagnosis is a work in progress.

• Fault detection and diagnosis is a key

component of many operations management
automation systems.
• A “fault” is another word for a problem. A
“root cause” fault is a fundamental, underlying
problem that may lead to other problems and
observable symptoms. (It might not be directly
observable).
 10 safety measures that must be followed while using a
microwave:
1. Avoid Metals and papers: Do not use any metal container /metal utensil or any
cookware that has metal handle or trims to avoid fire inside microwave. Always
remove the aluminum foil from the food item before heating them in
microwave. Also do not use paper cups or paper disposable utensils for cooking
and heating.
2. No flammable food or beverage: Do not heat or cook any food and beverage
item that is flammable in nature ( i.e. items that catch fire). Heating such items
can cause fire or explosion inside microwave
3. No sealed food and beverage items: Do not heat food items that are packed
and sealed. Heating such items can lead to explosion inside the microwave. First
take out the food from sealed packet and then heat it in a microwavable dish or
utensil.
4. Place microwave away from heating sources in the kitchen: Do not keep it near
or beneath any cooking or heating appliance. This can lead to overheating of
the microwave.
5. Do not cover the vent of microwave at the top when it is in use: Also do not
cover any part of the microwave with metal foil. This can lead to overheating of
the appliance and sometimes even risk of fire.
6. Never ever attempt to use microwave with door open as
this act can lead to exposure to microwave energy.
7. If food items or materials inside the oven catch fire,
immediately turn off the power, unplug the device and
keep oven door closed
8. After cooking or heating, allow the utensil or dish to
stand in the microwave oven for a short time before
taking it out. This will bring down the temperature of the
hot container and will protect the user from risk of any
injury or burn.
9. Over-sized food containers should not be heated
inside microwave to avoid fire or electric shock.
10. Never use microwave as a storage unit: Do not store any
item other than manufacturer recommended accessories
inside it.
 Using Multimeter

• There are two types: Digital and analogue A

Digital multimeter has a set of digits on the
display and an analogue multimeter has a scale
with a pointer (or needle).

• Figure6.3 Digital and Analogue Multimeter

 Impelemation of proper troubleshoot
defects/faulty parts
Troubleshooting Procedures
Trouble shooting procedure is important to reduce the
time required for maintenance and troubleshooting is
done easily if we have a theoretical knowledge about the
equipment.
 Troubleshooting procedures consists of the
following 5 Steps:
Step 1: Preparation
Step 2: Observation
Step 3: Define Problem Area
Step 4: Identify Possible Causes
Step 5: Determine Most Probable Cause
System recognition is the awareness
of some undesirable change in the
equipment performance. That is,
• The equipment displays some sign of
poor performance.
• The performance of the equipment is
compared with its normal function.
 Verify that the power supply is faulted or not.

• Troubleshooting any piece of equipment involves

a systematic approach of observing the
symptom, analyzing the possible causes, and
checking these failures by test and
measurement.
• Given that the system power is available and the
power supply is connected to it, check the output
of the power supply. If the output voltage is zero,
or highly deviated value from its rated value the
device is faulted.
 Identify and locate the cause of the trouble
• First check the fuse. If the fuse blows investigate the root
cause of it before replacing. If the fuse is normal perform
voltage test starting from the input side to the output
side stage by stage until you get abnormal reading which
is also the symptom of fault. Recall the transformer stages
bellow, and apply voltage measurement at each stage
using the following steps:
Correct the problem.
• Once the root cause of a given fault is found, obviously
the next task is to correct (trouble shoot) it. It is act of
connecting the disconnecting circuit or replacing the
faulted component with the same rated components.
This is actually one type of maintenance task
 Verify that the device reverts to its normal
condition.
• This is simply done by measuring the output
voltage. If the fault still exist, repeat step 2 and 3
for the other fault.
Follow up to prevent further trouble.
• If the fault is expected to be created by misuse of
the power supply, for example if it were
overloaded, consults the user how to use it in
order to prevent the same fault in the future.
 Most Common Problems And Possible Causes
microwave oven
• The following chart lists a variety of common problems
and nearly all possible causes. Diagnostic procedures will
then be needed to determine which actually apply. The
'possible causes' are listed in *approximate* order of
likelihood.
• Most of these problems are covered in more detail
elsewhere in this document.
• While this chart lists many problems, it is does not cover
everything that can go wrong. However, it can be a
starting point for guiding your thinking in the proper
direction. Even if not listed here, your particular problem
may still be dealt with elsewhere in this document.
Problem: Totally dead oven.
Possible causes:
– No power to outlet (blown fuse or tripped breaker or
GFCI).
– Blown main fuse - likely due to other problems.
– Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
– Defective controller or its power supply.
– Clock needs to be set before other functions will
operate (some models).
Problem: Totally dead oven after repair.
Possible causes:
– Cabinet screws replaced in incorrect location (safety
interlock not engaged).
– Any number of screw-ups. :)
Problem: No response to any buttons on touchpad.
Possible causes:
– Door is not closed (some models).
– You waited too long (open and close door to wake it up).
– Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to
reset).
– Defective interlock switches.
– Faulty controller or its power supply.
– Touchpad or controller board contaminated by
overenthusiastic cleaning.
– Defective/damaged touchpad.
Problem: Oven runs when door is still open.
Possible causes:
– Damaged interlock assembly.
– Cooling fans (only) running due to bad sensor or still warm.
Problem: Oven starts on its own as soon as door is
closed.
Possible causes:
– Defective TRIAC or relay.
– Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
– Defective controller or its power supply.
– Touchpad or controller board contaminated by
overenthusiastic cleaning.
– Defective/damaged touchpad.
Problem: Oven works but display is blank.
Possible causes:
– Defective controller or its power supply.
– Broken display panel.
– Oven needs to be reset (pull plug for a minute or two to
reset).
Problem: Whacked out controller or incorrect operation.
Possible causes:
– Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
– Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
– Defective controller or its power supply.
– Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic cleaning.
– Defective/damaged touchpad.
– Defective sensor (particularly convection/microwave combos).
Problem: Erratic behavior.
Possible causes:
– Previous or multipart cook cycle not complete.
– Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
– Faulty relay - primary (or HV side, much less commonly used).
– Defective controller or its power supply.
– Bad contacts/connections on mechanical timers. Intermittent fuse.
– Power surge at start of cook cycle confusing controller.
– Microwave (RF) leakage into electronics bay.
Problem: Some keys on the touchpad do not function or
perform the wrong action.
Possible causes:
– Touchpad or controller board contaminated by overenthusiastic
cleaning.
– Defective/damaged touchpad.
– Controller is confused (pull plug for a minute or two to reset).
– Faulty controller.
Problem: Microwave oven does not respond to START
button.
Possible causes:
– Defective START button.
– Faulty interlock switches.
– Door is not securely closed.
– Faulty controller.
– You waited too long - open and close door to wake it up!
 Problem: No heat but otherwise normal operation.
Possible causes:
– Blown fuse in HV transformer primary circuit or HV fuse (if used).
– Bad connections (particularly to magnetron filament).
– Open thermal protector or thermal fuse.
– Open HV capacitor, HV diode, HV transformer, or magnetron
filament.
– Shorted HV diode, HV capacitor (will blow a fuse), or magnetron.
– Damaged protective VDR from filament to chassis (not commonly
used).
– Defective HV relay (not commonly used).

 Problem: Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or

turntable rotation.
Possible causes:
– Defective (lower) door interlock switch or door not closing fully.
– Faulty relay or triac.
• Problem: Fuse blows when closing or opening door:
Possible causes:
– Defective door interlock switch(s).
– Interlock switch knocked out of position.
– Misaligned door.
• Problem: Loud hum and/or burning smell when attempting
to cook.
Possible causes:
– Shorted HV diode, magnetron.
– Burnt carbonized food in or above oven chamber.
– Shorted winding in HV transformer.
– Frayed insulation on HV wiring.
• Problem: Arcing in or above oven chamber.
Possible causes:
– Burnt carbonized food deposits.
– Exposed sharp metal edges.
• Problem: Fuse blows when initiating cook cycle.
Possible causes:
– Defective interlock switches or misaligned door.
– Shorted HV capacitor.
– Shorted HV diode.
– Shorted magnetron (probably won't blow main fuse but HV fuse if used).
– Defective triac.
– Old age or power surges.
– Defective HV transformer.
– Short in wiring due to vibration or poor manufacturing.
• Problem: Fuse blows when microwave shuts off (during or at end of cook
cycle).
Possible causes:
– Defective TRIAC (doesn't turn off properly).
– Defective relay.
– Shorting wires.
• Problem: Oven heats on high setting regardless of power setting.
Possible causes:
– Faulty primary relay or TRIAC or HV relay (not commonly used).
– Faulty controller.
• Problem: Oven immediately starts to cook when door is
closed.
Possible causes:
– Shorted relay or TRIAC.
– Faulty controller.
• Problem: Oven heats but power seems low or erratic.
Possible causes:
– Low line voltage.
– Magnetron with low emission.
– Faulty controller or set for wrong mode.
– Stirrer (or turntable) not working.
– Intermittent connections to magnetron filament or elsewhere.
– Faulty primary relay or triac or HV relay (not commonly used).
– Damaged protective VDR from filament to chassis (not
commonly used).
• Problem: Oven heats but shuts off randomly.
Possible causes:
– Overheating due to blocked air vents or inoperative cooling fan.
– Overheating due to bad magnetron.
– Bad connections in controller or microwave generator.
– Faulty interlock switch or marginal door alignment.
– Faulty controller.
– Overheating due to extremely high line voltage.
– Stuck stirrer fan resulting hot spots detected by sensors.
• Problem: Oven makes (possibly erratic) buzzing noise when heating.
Possible causes:
– Fan blades hitting support or shroud.
– Vibrating sheet metal.
– Vibrating transformer laminations.
– Turntable or stirrer hitting some debris.
• Problem: Oven light does not work.
Possible causes:
– Burnt out bulb :-).
– Bad connections.
• Problem: Fans or turntables that do not work.
Possible causes:
– Gummed up lubrication or bad motor bearing(s).
– Loose or broken belt.
– Bad motor.
– Bad thermostat.
 Checking isolated Circuits using specified testing procedures.

Isolating transformers.
• Isolating transformers connected in the test supply will prevent
the risk of electric shock
• If a person touches a single live conductor of the isolated
supply while in contact with an earthed conductor.
• It should be clearly understood, however, that an isolating
transformer cannot prevent an electric shock if someone makes
contact simultaneously with both conductors of the supply on
the secondary side of the transformer, unless the output
voltage is below 50 V ac (120 V dc) in dry conditions and 16 V ac
(35 V dc) in wet conditions.13v
• The integrity of the isolation from earth should be tested
regularly, or earth fault monitoring devices should be installed,
to ensure that dangerous earth faults are detected.
 Advising/informing Customers
• Advice is a noun that means guidance about what someone
should do. Advise is a verb that means to give someone
advice about something. Despite their very similar spelling,
advice and advice are pronounced differently.
How Microwaves Cooks foods.
• First, know that microwaves—the actual waves produced by
these ovens—are a type of electromagnetic radiation. These
waves cause water molecules in food to vibrate. These
vibrations, in turn, produce the heat that cooks food.
• The waves are produced by a vacuum tube within the oven
called a magnetron. They are reflected within the oven’s
metal interior; can pass through glass, paper, plastic, and
similar materials; and are absorbed by food.
 Injury Risks and Background on Microwaves
• Most injuries related to microwave ovens are the result of
heat-related burns from hot containers, overheated foods, or
exploding liquids.
• Most injuries do not relate to radiation. That said, there have
been very rare instances of radiation injury due to unusual
circumstances or improper servicing.
• In general, these radiation injuries are caused by exposure to
large amounts of microwave radiation leaking through
openings such as gaps in the microwave oven seals. However,
FDA regulations require that microwave ovens are designed to
prevent these high-level radiation leaks. In fact, manufacturers
must certify that their microwave ovens comply with specific
FDA safety standards. These standards require any radiation
given off by ovens to be well below the level known to cause
injury.
 Safety Tips for customer health care provider
A. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for
use. Directions in the user manual provide
recommended operating procedures and safety
precautions.
B. Use microwave-safe containers. Use cookware
specially manufactured for use in the microwave oven.
Generally, you should not use metal pans or aluminum
foil because microwaves reflect off them, causing food
to cook unevenly and possibly damaging the oven.
C. Avoid super-heated water. “Super-heated” means
water is heated beyond its boiling temperature,
without signs of boiling.
D. Check for leakage. There should be little cause
for concern about excess microwave radiation
leaking from these ovens unless the door
hinges, latch, or seals are damaged
E. Don’t use ovens that seem to operate when
the door is open. The FDA monitors these
appliances for radiation safety issues and has
received increasing reports about microwave
ovens that appear to stay on—and operate—
when the door is open.