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Lecture 18- Straight Knife Cutting Machine

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34 views

Lecture 18- Straight Knife Cutting Machine

Uploaded by

ltindustry2009
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PPT, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Cutting

Cutting: Cut out the garment pieces from the lays of fabric with the help of cutting
template or marker or process of separating garment parts from the fabric lay in
precise size and shape

Requirements of fabric cutting :

 Precision of cut : must be cut precisely to the size and shape of the
pattern; It depends on-
 The method of cutting adapted
 The marker planning
 Marker making/duplicating
 Condition of the cutting machine
 Skill ness and attentiveness of the operator

 Clean edges: Fabric edges should be smooth and clean, the raw edges of
the fabric should not show fraying or snagging.
Continued….
 Unfused edges: Heat generated from the friction, leads fused
the raw edges of thermoplastic fiber fabrics, in extreme cases,
difficult to separate individual plies
Forced separation leads snagged edges, and in cases hard edge
is uncomfortable in wear

Remedies:
• Use anti-fusion paper between the layers.
• Use silicon lubricants on to the blade.
• Spraying the blade with air coolant lubricant.
• Slowing down the speed of the blade.
• Reducing the height of the lay.
• Use well sharpened blade.
Continued….
Support of the lay:
Surface of the lay should be strong enough
to bear the weight of cutting lay and allow
the movement of the cutting machine.
Cutting system must allow the blade to
penetrate the lowest ply of the spread.
Consistent cutting
Cutting should be consistent whatever the cutting
method. Top to bottom ply of a lay should be in same
size and shape
Cutting Methods
Methods of cutting:
1. Completely manual technique-Hand operated
scissors.
2. Manually operated powered knife
a. Straight Knife
b. Round knife
c. Band knife
d. Die cutter
e. Notcher
f. Drill
3.Computerized technique.
a. Knife cutting
b. Cutting by water jet
c. Laser cutting
d. Plasma torch cutting
Completely manual technique-Hand operated scissors

Various types of scissor are normally used when cutting only single or double
plies .

Advantages:
• Suitable for small production.
• Easy to operate.
• Used for tailoring & domestic purposes.
• Used in garments manufacturing.
• Suitable for making sample garments.

Disadvantages:
• Time consuming method.
• High labor cost per garment.
• Fabric wastage is very high.
• Limitation to use in garments industry.
Straight Knife Cutting Machine
Widely used cutting machine which cut fabrics in bulk with high
precision.

Features:

 Cutting knife is straight in shape.


Blade length= 10’’-13”
Blade width= (1 ½ -3) cm.
Blade thickness= ½ mm.
 Knife is driven by electric power.
 Grinding wheel is present to sharp the knife during cutting.
 The machine consists of base plate, electric motor, handle, knife,
knife guard, stand, roller wheel.
 Handle for the cutter to direct the blade.
 Most commonly (99%) used in the RMG industry of Bangladesh.
Continued…
Continued….
• Machine description:
Components of a straight knife machine are-
– An electric motor: to run the machine.
– Base plate: usually in rollers for easy movement.
– Handle: to direct the blade.
– Knife: moves by reciprocating motion.
– Knife guard: for safety.
– Grinding wheel: to sharp the knife during cutting
– Stand: to hold the whole machine.
– Roller wheel: to move the machine over cutting table
easily.
Continued………
Working principle:
• Two kind of power are required to operate a straight
knife.
- Motor power drives the reciprocating blade.
- Operator power drives the knife through the
lay.

• The motor power needed is determined by:


- The height of the ply.
- The construction of the fabric.
- The curvature of the line being cut.
- The stroke of the blade.
Continued….
• Advantages:
– High production cutting machine.
– Possible to cut fabric directly.
– Possible to cut larger height of the fabric lay.
– Both sharp corners and heavy curves could be cut.
– Blade could be sharpen by attaching grinding wheel during cutting.
– High cutting speed.
– Comparatively cheap.

• Disadvantages:
-Blade deflection occurs, so in some cases fabric cut pieces can be found
faulty.
-If depth of the fabric is higher, the possibility of deflection of the blade is
more.
-The machine is not ergonomic; Intensity of the accident is comparatively
higher.
Continued….
Precaution to avoid blade deflection:
– Reducing the lay height.
– The weight of the motor should be light.
– The operator should be skilled and conscious.
– Speed of the machine may be reduced.

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