1. Introduction Part (Modofied)
1. Introduction Part (Modofied)
achieve these properties on the warp yarns, a protective coating of a polymeric film forming agent (size) is applied to
the warp yarns prior to weaving; this process is called slashing or sizing. This size material is later on removed in
the finishing operation called desizing.
The ultimate goal of sizing is to eliminate or reduce warp breaks during weaving. Warp breaks are caused either by
It is important that the size film must coat the yarn surface without excessive penetration into the body of the yarn,
because if the size material is penetrated deep in the yarn, complete desizing would not be possible. Therefore, only
enough penetration should occur to achieve bonding of the size film to prevent removal during weaving.
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The quality of woven fabrics depends to. a great extent on the quality of warp preparation. For trouble-
free weaving, a well-slashed warp is a must. Poor slashing may increase loom stops which in return
increase the cost of weaving.
The processes involved in woven fabric formation are in short, winding, warping, sizing, and drawing in
and then weaving on the loom. In short a woven fabric is made by the interlacement of the two types of
threads (warp and weft yarns) lying at 90° to each other, i.e., warp (longitudinally) and weft (across
width); one after the other.
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Loom is the machine that is used for this purpose. In the beginning, hand looms were used to produce cloths through
weaving, at a commercial scale. These looms made use of a shuttle for the insertion of weft. The weaver had to throw a
shuttle by hand from one side and catch it with the other hand at the other side. Then, after several developments and
after the invention of electricity, power looms were came into being. The power looms were used for centuries, with the
same element for weft insertion, the shuttle. The shuttle looms seemed to fail to meet the requirement of the modern, fast
and quality conscious world. This led to the invention of the looms, which could insert weft into the fabric through any
other means. Such looms are termed as shuttleless looms, which can give the desired quality and production.
Although there are many mechanisms on a modern weaving machine for various purposes; there are five basic motions
that are essential for continuous weaving
I. Warp let-off
II. Shedding
III. Filling insertion
IV. Beat-up
V. Fabric take-up
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Warp let-off motion releases the warp yarn from the warp beams as the warp yarn is woven into the fabric. The
let-off mechanism applies tension to the warp yarns by controlling the movement of warp yarns.
Shedding is the movement of some warp yarns up and some down to make an angled opening for the weft yarn to
the inserted through. This opening is called “shed”. Before the insertion of next weft yarn, the warp sheet has to be
rearranged according to the fabric design pattern so that the required fabric structure is produced.
After each shed change, the filling yarn is inserted through the shed
When the filling yarn is inserted through the shed, it lies relatively far from its final position. Beat-up is the
process of pushing the last inserted filling yarn to the cloth fell by using a device called reed as shown. Reed is a
closed comb of flat metal strips (wires). These metal strips are uniformly spaced at intervals that correspond to the
spacing of warp ends in the fabric; therefore, the reed is also used to control warp yarn density (closeness) in the
fabric.
As the fabric is woven, it should he removed from the weaving area. This is achieved by the take-up motion. The
Auxiliary Functions
In addition to the five basic motions of a loom there are many other mechanisms on weaving machines to accomplish other functions. These
include:
a drop wire assembly, one wire for warp yarn, to stop the machine when a warp end is slack or broken
a tension sensing and compensating whip roll assembly to maintain tension in warp sheet
automatic pick finding device reduces machine downtimes in case of filling yarn breakages
filling selvage devices such as trimmers, tuckers, holders and special weave harnesses for selvage warp ends
filling replenishment system to provide un-interrupted filling insertion by switching from a depleted to a full package
a temple assembly on each selvage to keep fabric width at the beat-up as near the width of the warp in the reed as possible
a color coded light signal device to indicate the type of machine stop from a distance
Woven Design Fundamentals
• A woven cloth is formed by the interlacement of two sets of threads, namely, warp and weft threads. These threads are interlaced
with one another according to the type of weave or design. The warp threads are those that run longitudinally along the length of
the fabric and the weft threads are those that run transversely across the fabric. For the sake of convenience the warp threads are
termed as ends and the weft as picks or fillings.
The plain weave is variously known as “calico” or “tabby” weave. It is the simplest of all weaves having a repeat size of 2. The range
of application of this weave is wide.
(iv) Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited.
(v) It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other simple combination of threads, excepting that of “gauze”or
“cross weaving”.
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The principle involved in the construction of plain cloth is the interlacement of any two continuous threads either
warp or weft in an exactly contrary manner to each other, with every thread in each series passing alternately under
and over consecutive threads of other series interlaces uniformly throughout the fabric. By this plan of interlacement,
every thread in each series interlaces with every thread in the other series to the maximum extent, thereby producing
a comparatively firm and strong texture of cloth.
Textural Stability or the firmness of any woven structure depends on the frequency of interlacing between the warp
and weft threads. The greater the number of intersections the better will be the firmness of the cloth. Let us consider
the case of two fabrics woven with identical warp and weft counts and thread settings. Consider that one is woven as
plain weave and the other with any other weave such as twill, sateen etc. It will be seen that the latter will be less
firm, and therefore of weaker texture than the former, because the threads composing it would be bent in a lesser
degree than those of the plain weave, thereby causing them to be less firmly compacted. Thus it is important that the
counts of warp and weft, the number of warp threads and picks per inch, and the weave, should be properly
proportioned, in order to obtain the best results of dimensional stability.
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End uses plain weave: Plain weave finds extensive uses. It is used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhothi, saree,
shirting, suiting, etc.
The plain weave may be modified by extending it warp or weft way or both. The extension of the plain weave thus
produces a rib effect. A warp rib results from extending the plain weave in the warp direction and a weft rib structure
results from extending the plain weave in the weft direction. A matt rib results from extending the plain weave in both
directions.
Rib weaves are used in gross grain cloths, matelasse fabrics, repp cloth which is extensively employed for window
blinds in railway carriages and other vehicles, upholstering furniture, and cambric picket handkerchief.
2. Twill Weaves (Fabrics)
Twill weaves are the weaves that find a wide range of application. They can be constructed in a variety of ways. The
main feature of these weaves that distinguishes from other types is the presence of pronounced diagonal lines that run
along the width of the fabric.
More ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.
1. Ordinary honey comb or honey comb proper weaves are characterized by the following features
a) Cell like appearance with ridges and hollows 2.Brighton honey comb weaves are
b) Single line crossing a single line or double line crossing a double diagonal line
characterized by Non-reversible cloths
c) More warp and weft floats
in which face appears different from
d) Moisture absorbent due to floats
e) A reversible fabric having similar effect on both sides. back side of the cloth.
End uses of Ordinary honey comb or honey comb proper
The fabrics constructed from honey comb weaves have more thread floats on both sides and have a rough structure.
This renders more absorption of moisture. The weaves are, therefore, suitable for towels and also in various forms for
bed covers and quilts (comforters).
5. Huck A Back Weaves
Huckaback is a weave in which the weft yarns are of a relatively lower count and they are loosely twisted
(softly spun), making a floating and absorbing weaves.
The huck a back weaves are basically toweling fabrics. They are generally associated with honey comb fabrics
and hence known as honeycomb effects. They are constructed by alternately combining a floating with a plain
weave.
Huck a back weaves are suitable for producing thick and heavy textures. One of the well known heavier
varieties of this class is the “Grecians”. The design of huck a back weaves permits stripe and check effects to
be brought out in the fabrics.
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The huck a back weaves are generally characterized by the following features:
(a)Repeat is divided into four equal parts. Two parts are filled with plain weave and
remaining two parts are filled with long float motif.
(b)Plain weave gives firmness to the cloth.
(c)Long float motif gives moisture absorbency.
(d)The loom equipment required would ideally be a dobby loom fitted with a fast reed
mechanism.
• Huck a back weaves are largely employed in the manufacture of both linen and cotton
towels for bath rooms, and also linen towels for use as glass cloths.
6. Crepe Weave
Crepe weaves constitute an useful variety of simple weaves and are also known as “crape” or “oatmeal”
fabrics due to their pebbly or crinkled (rough) surface. The size of the pebbles and their arrangement on the
fabric surface determine the type of crepe fabric.
The crepe effect can be achieved either by the use of crepe yarns (highly twisted) or a crepe weave, and
sometimes by special process of finishing, i.e., embossing.
The crepe weaves are characterized by the following features :
(e) Formed mainly by four methods, though several methods are available .
End uses of Crepe Weaves
Crepe weaves are frequently employed in conjunction with other elementary weaves, in order to
produce a variety of different and contrasting effects in elaborate jacquard designs for brocade and
similar fabrics. They are also employed in the production of cotton piece goods that are usually woven in
the grey state, to be afterwards bleached and used for a variety of domestic purposes.
Crepe fabrics are also sometimes printed with decorative designs and sold as a light and cheap material
known as “cretonne”, which is employed extensively as loose coverings for furniture, antimacassars,
covers, curtains and wall hangings, and for many other similar household articles.
Review Questions
1. What are primary motions in a loom?
2. What are the objects of the Take-up motion in a loom?
3. What are the objects of the Let-off motion in a loom?
4. What is the function of the Reed in loom?
5. Mention the basic characteristics of a plain weave.
6. Palin and twill weave, which one have more textural stability? why?
7. Mention the end uses of rib weaves.
8. Mention the end uses of plain weave.
9. Mention the basic characteristics of twill weavers.
10. Differentiate between satin and sateen weaves.
11. Give the end uses of satin/sateen weaves.
12. Mention the end uses of twill weaves.
13. Mention the end uses of honey comb weaves.
14. Mention the characteristics of ordinary honeycomb weaves.
15. Mention the basic features of huck a back weaves ?
16. Give the end uses of huck a back weaves?
17. Mention the main features of crepe weaves?