AKSUM UNIVERSITY

Aksum Institute of Technology

Faculty of Textile and Fashion Technology

Textile Engineering Department

INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE MATERIALS-II

For Fashion Design 2nd year students
Prepared by: Destalem M. 1
 Introduction to Fabrics
A fabric is a flat structure consisting of fibrous products, either natural or man made.
The fabrics produced may be simple or fancy by using different materials of threads or yarns of different fibers which could
be cotton, wool, silk, etc. Fabric formation can be done different ways:
Nowadays there are various technologies suitable to create textiles, which all of them go by the name of fabrics.

1. By interlacement of threads (weaving)

2. By intermeshing of loop (knitting)
3. By twisting or knotting of threads (lace making or netting)
4. Non-woven
 Woven Fabrics and Their Properties

The yarn is marketed wound on various types of packages, which generally

depend on the technology of the spinning process from which the yarn
originates; the most common packages are cones (either cones or bicones, or
tubes, or tricones), spools or bobbins, flanged bobbins, hanks and cheeses.

Owing to the specialization trend of modern technology, the weaving industry

is supplied today only with hard packages, with yarn wound on rigid tubes
which consequently can be used as such in the weaving process.
Continued…

Should the type of package not be appropriate, then the first

operation to carry out would be rewinding (cone winding), a
processing phase which can be considered as the last integration of
the spinning process.

Starting from the storehouse, the yarn is subjected to following

working sequence until the weaving stage.
Continued …. Creels
Independently of the warping system, the threads are fed from
bobbins placed on creels. The creels are simply metallic frames
on which the feeding bobbins are fitted; they are equipped with
yarn tensioning devices, which in modern machines are provided
with automatic control and centralized tension variation.
Warping
Warping is aimed at preparing the weaver’s beam to be set up on
the weaving machine (LOOM).
Depending on the kind of intermediate carrier used, the
industrial warping process can be carried out according to two
different technologies:
 Sectional warping (conical drum or dresser warping);
 Beam warping or direct warping (preparatory beam warping).
This Warping beam will feed to Sizing machine, then prepared
weaver beam to feed to loom machine.
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The weaving process requires the warp yarn to be strong, smooth and elastic or extensible to a certain degree. To

achieve these properties on the warp yarns, a protective coating of a polymeric film forming agent (size) is applied to
the warp yarns prior to weaving; this process is called slashing or sizing. This size material is later on removed in
the finishing operation called desizing.

The main purposes of slashing are:

 to increase the strength of the yarns
 to reduce the yarn hairiness that would cause problems in weaving process

The ultimate goal of sizing is to eliminate or reduce warp breaks during weaving. Warp breaks are caused either by

high tension or by low strength in the yam.

It is important that the size film must coat the yarn surface without excessive penetration into the body of the yarn,

because if the size material is penetrated deep in the yarn, complete desizing would not be possible. Therefore, only
enough penetration should occur to achieve bonding of the size film to prevent removal during weaving.
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The quality of woven fabrics depends to. a great extent on the quality of warp preparation. For trouble-
free weaving, a well-slashed warp is a must. Poor slashing may increase loom stops which in return
increase the cost of weaving.

The processes involved in woven fabric formation are in short, winding, warping, sizing, and drawing in
and then weaving on the loom. In short a woven fabric is made by the interlacement of the two types of
threads (warp and weft yarns) lying at 90° to each other, i.e., warp (longitudinally) and weft (across
width); one after the other.
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 Loom is the machine that is used for this purpose. In the beginning, hand looms were used to produce cloths through
weaving, at a commercial scale. These looms made use of a shuttle for the insertion of weft. The weaver had to throw a
shuttle by hand from one side and catch it with the other hand at the other side. Then, after several developments and
after the invention of electricity, power looms were came into being. The power looms were used for centuries, with the
same element for weft insertion, the shuttle. The shuttle looms seemed to fail to meet the requirement of the modern, fast
and quality conscious world. This led to the invention of the looms, which could insert weft into the fabric through any
other means. Such looms are termed as shuttleless looms, which can give the desired quality and production.

Although there are many mechanisms on a modern weaving machine for various purposes; there are five basic motions
that are essential for continuous weaving

I. Warp let-off
II. Shedding
III. Filling insertion
IV. Beat-up
V. Fabric take-up
 Continue..
 Warp let-off motion releases the warp yarn from the warp beams as the warp yarn is woven into the fabric. The
let-off mechanism applies tension to the warp yarns by controlling the movement of warp yarns.

 Shedding is the movement of some warp yarns up and some down to make an angled opening for the weft yarn to
the inserted through. This opening is called “shed”. Before the insertion of next weft yarn, the warp sheet has to be
rearranged according to the fabric design pattern so that the required fabric structure is produced.

 After each shed change, the filling yarn is inserted through the shed

 When the filling yarn is inserted through the shed, it lies relatively far from its final position. Beat-up is the
process of pushing the last inserted filling yarn to the cloth fell by using a device called reed as shown. Reed is a
closed comb of flat metal strips (wires). These metal strips are uniformly spaced at intervals that correspond to the
spacing of warp ends in the fabric; therefore, the reed is also used to control warp yarn density (closeness) in the
fabric.

 As the fabric is woven, it should he removed from the weaving area. This is achieved by the take-up motion. The
 Auxiliary Functions
In addition to the five basic motions of a loom there are many other mechanisms on weaving machines to accomplish other functions. These
include:
 a drop wire assembly, one wire for warp yarn, to stop the machine when a warp end is slack or broken

 a tension sensing and compensating whip roll assembly to maintain tension in warp sheet

 a mechanism to stop the machine when a filling yarn breaks

 automatic pick finding device reduces machine downtimes in case of filling yarn breakages

 filling feeders to control tension on each pick

 pick mixers to blend alternate picks from two or more packages

 filling selvage devices such as trimmers, tuckers, holders and special weave harnesses for selvage warp ends

 filling replenishment system to provide un-interrupted filling insertion by switching from a depleted to a full package

 a temple assembly on each selvage to keep fabric width at the beat-up as near the width of the warp in the reed as possible

 sensors to stop the machine in the event of mechanical failure

 a centralized lubrication control and dispensing system

 a reversing mechanism to avoid bad start ups after a machine stop

 a color coded light signal device to indicate the type of machine stop from a distance
 Woven Design Fundamentals
• A woven cloth is formed by the interlacement of two sets of threads, namely, warp and weft threads. These threads are interlaced
with one another according to the type of weave or design. The warp threads are those that run longitudinally along the length of
the fabric and the weft threads are those that run transversely across the fabric. For the sake of convenience the warp threads are
termed as ends and the weft as picks or fillings.

1. Plain Weaves (Fabrics)

The plain weave is variously known as “calico” or “tabby” weave. It is the simplest of all weaves having a repeat size of 2. The range
of application of this weave is wide.

 The plain weave has the following characteristics :

(i) It has the maximum number of binding points

(ii) The threads interlace on alternate order of 1 up and 1 down.

(iii) The thread density is limited

(iv) Cloth thickness and mass per unit area are limited.

(v) It produces a relatively stronger fabric that is obtained by any other simple combination of threads, excepting that of “gauze”or
“cross weaving”.
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 The principle involved in the construction of plain cloth is the interlacement of any two continuous threads either
warp or weft in an exactly contrary manner to each other, with every thread in each series passing alternately under
and over consecutive threads of other series interlaces uniformly throughout the fabric. By this plan of interlacement,
every thread in each series interlaces with every thread in the other series to the maximum extent, thereby producing
a comparatively firm and strong texture of cloth.

 Textural Stability or the firmness of any woven structure depends on the frequency of interlacing between the warp
and weft threads. The greater the number of intersections the better will be the firmness of the cloth. Let us consider
the case of two fabrics woven with identical warp and weft counts and thread settings. Consider that one is woven as
plain weave and the other with any other weave such as twill, sateen etc. It will be seen that the latter will be less
firm, and therefore of weaker texture than the former, because the threads composing it would be bent in a lesser
degree than those of the plain weave, thereby causing them to be less firmly compacted. Thus it is important that the
counts of warp and weft, the number of warp threads and picks per inch, and the weave, should be properly
proportioned, in order to obtain the best results of dimensional stability.
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 End uses plain weave: Plain weave finds extensive uses. It is used in cambric, muslin, blanket, canvas, dhothi, saree,
shirting, suiting, etc.

 The plain weave may be modified by extending it warp or weft way or both. The extension of the plain weave thus
produces a rib effect. A warp rib results from extending the plain weave in the warp direction and a weft rib structure
results from extending the plain weave in the weft direction. A matt rib results from extending the plain weave in both
directions.

 Rib weaves are used in gross grain cloths, matelasse fabrics, repp cloth which is extensively employed for window
blinds in railway carriages and other vehicles, upholstering furniture, and cambric picket handkerchief.
 2. Twill Weaves (Fabrics)
 Twill weaves are the weaves that find a wide range of application. They can be constructed in a variety of ways. The
main feature of these weaves that distinguishes from other types is the presence of pronounced diagonal lines that run
along the width of the fabric.

The basic characteristics of twill weaves are :

 They form diagonal lines from one selvedge to another.

 More ends per unit area and picks per unit area than plain cloth.

 Less binding points than plain cloth

 Better cover than plain weave

 More cloth thickness and mass per unit area.

 3. Satin and sateen weaves
 Satin is a warp faced rearranged twill and sateen is a rearranged weft faced twill. Thus satin is the reverse side of
sateen weaves. These weaves form an important category of weaves. They are used in combination with other weaves,
particularly in case of ornamented fabrics. The striking feature of these weaves is their bright appearance and
smooth feel. The basic characteristic of satin/sateen weaves are :

They are either warp or weft faced weaves.

 Have no prominent weave structures

 Only one binding point in each end or pick

 No continuous twill lines

 Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility

 More thread density is possible in warp and weft

 More mass per unit area is possible

 Have less binding points and more float lengths

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• Twill weaves find a wide range of application such as drill cloth, khakhi uniforms, denim cloth, blankets, shirtings, hangings
and soft furnishings.
• Specifically, Satin weaves find a wide range of application such as denim, interlining cloth, ribbons, dress materials
(lustrous), children’s dress materials etc.
 4. Honey Comb Weaves
 The honey comb weaves derive their name from their partial resemblance to the hexagonal honey comb cells of wax
in which bees store their honey. These weaves form ridges and hollows which give a cell like appearance to the
textures. Both warp and weft threads float somewhat on both sides, which coupled with the rough structure, renders
this class of fabric readily absorbent of moisture. The weaves are of two classes, namely,

1. Ordinary honey comb or honey comb proper

2. Brighton honey comb.

1. Ordinary honey comb or honey comb proper weaves are characterized by the following features
a) Cell like appearance with ridges and hollows 2.Brighton honey comb weaves are
b) Single line crossing a single line or double line crossing a double diagonal line
characterized by Non-reversible cloths
c) More warp and weft floats
in which face appears different from
d) Moisture absorbent due to floats
e) A reversible fabric having similar effect on both sides. back side of the cloth.
 End uses of Ordinary honey comb or honey comb proper

The fabrics constructed from honey comb weaves have more thread floats on both sides and have a rough structure.
This renders more absorption of moisture. The weaves are, therefore, suitable for towels and also in various forms for
bed covers and quilts (comforters).
 5. Huck A Back Weaves
 Huckaback is a weave in which the weft yarns are of a relatively lower count and they are loosely twisted
(softly spun), making a floating and absorbing weaves.

 The huck a back weaves are basically toweling fabrics. They are generally associated with honey comb fabrics
and hence known as honeycomb effects. They are constructed by alternately combining a floating with a plain
weave.

 Huck a back weaves are suitable for producing thick and heavy textures. One of the well known heavier
varieties of this class is the “Grecians”. The design of huck a back weaves permits stripe and check effects to
be brought out in the fabrics.
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The huck a back weaves are generally characterized by the following features:
(a)Repeat is divided into four equal parts. Two parts are filled with plain weave and
remaining two parts are filled with long float motif.
(b)Plain weave gives firmness to the cloth.
(c)Long float motif gives moisture absorbency.
(d)The loom equipment required would ideally be a dobby loom fitted with a fast reed
mechanism.

End uses of Huck a back weaves

• Huck a back weaves are largely employed in the manufacture of both linen and cotton

towels for bath rooms, and also linen towels for use as glass cloths.
 6. Crepe Weave
Crepe weaves constitute an useful variety of simple weaves and are also known as “crape” or “oatmeal”
fabrics due to their pebbly or crinkled (rough) surface. The size of the pebbles and their arrangement on the
fabric surface determine the type of crepe fabric.

The crepe effect can be achieved either by the use of crepe yarns (highly twisted) or a crepe weave, and
sometimes by special process of finishing, i.e., embossing.
The crepe weaves are characterized by the following features :

(a) They contain no twilled or other prominent effects

(b) The cloth is covered by minute spots or seeds

(c) Highly irregular surface-puckered in appearance

(d) High twist yarns are used with controlled shrinkage

(e) Formed mainly by four methods, though several methods are available .
 End uses of Crepe Weaves
Crepe weaves are frequently employed in conjunction with other elementary weaves, in order to
produce a variety of different and contrasting effects in elaborate jacquard designs for brocade and
similar fabrics. They are also employed in the production of cotton piece goods that are usually woven in
the grey state, to be afterwards bleached and used for a variety of domestic purposes.

Crepe fabrics are also sometimes printed with decorative designs and sold as a light and cheap material
known as “cretonne”, which is employed extensively as loose coverings for furniture, antimacassars,
covers, curtains and wall hangings, and for many other similar household articles.
 Review Questions
1. What are primary motions in a loom?
2. What are the objects of the Take-up motion in a loom?
3. What are the objects of the Let-off motion in a loom?
4. What is the function of the Reed in loom?
5. Mention the basic characteristics of a plain weave.
6. Palin and twill weave, which one have more textural stability? why?
7. Mention the end uses of rib weaves.
8. Mention the end uses of plain weave.
9. Mention the basic characteristics of twill weavers.
10. Differentiate between satin and sateen weaves.
11. Give the end uses of satin/sateen weaves.
12. Mention the end uses of twill weaves.
13. Mention the end uses of honey comb weaves.
14. Mention the characteristics of ordinary honeycomb weaves.
15. Mention the basic features of huck a back weaves ?
16. Give the end uses of huck a back weaves?
17. Mention the main features of crepe weaves?