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Saptak Roy - TT - Design

The document discusses Plain and Twill weaves, detailing their structures, characteristics, and applications. Plain weave is characterized by a simple over-under pattern, while Twill weave features a diagonal pattern, both known for their durability and versatility. Additionally, the document outlines various derivatives of these weaves, including Rib and Matt weaves, and compares the two primary types of Twill: S Twill and Z Twill.

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25 views16 pages

Saptak Roy - TT - Design

The document discusses Plain and Twill weaves, detailing their structures, characteristics, and applications. Plain weave is characterized by a simple over-under pattern, while Twill weave features a diagonal pattern, both known for their durability and versatility. Additionally, the document outlines various derivatives of these weaves, including Rib and Matt weaves, and compares the two primary types of Twill: S Twill and Z Twill.

Uploaded by

roysaptak16219
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as PPTX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Plain and Twill weaves—and their

derivatives, structure, characteristics,


applications, and variations.

Name – Saptak Roy


Roll no.- 11001422029
Registration no.-221100110166
Stream – Textile Technology
College – Government College of Engineering
and Textile Technology, Serampore
Subject – Yarn Formation II
Paper Code – PC TT 501
Plain Weave
Plain weave is a basic and common textile weaving structure where the warp and weft threads interlace in a simple
over-under pattern. Plain weave consists of one warp thread going over one weft thread, then under the next weft
thread, creating a simple, balanced, and uniform criss-cross pattern.
Characteristics: Plain weave fabrics are known to be durable, stable, and relatively inexpensive. They have a smooth,
flat surface texture and are versatile, and suitable for various applications from apparel to home furnishings.
Twill Weave
Definition and structure: Twill weave is a type of textile weaving where the weft threads pass over one or more warp
threads and then under two or more warp threads, creating a diagonal pattern on the fabric.

Characteristics: Twill weaves are known for their durability, strength, and ability to drape well. The diagonal pattern
also gives twill fabrics a distinct texture and appearance compared to other weaves like plain or satin.
Derivatives of Plain Weave and their Lifting Plan, Drafting Plan
Rib Weave
The section is classified into two categories: 1. Warp Rib and 2. Weft Rib

Warp Rib
It produces a rib or cord effect in the weft direction.
Extending plain weave vertically.
Finer yarn is used as warp and coarser as weft yarn.
Regular Warp Rib
Formula number: X/X [ X=Number of warp up in repeat]
Irregular Warp Rib
Formula number: X/ Y [ X=Number of warp up in repeat and Y=Number of weft up in repeat ]
Weft Rib
It produces a rib or cord effect in warp direction.
Extending plain weave horizontally.
Finer yarn is used as weft and coarser as warp yarn.

Regular Weft Rib


Formula number: 1/1 (X) [ X=Number of warp up in repeat]
Irregular Weft Rib
Formula number: 1/1 (X+Y)
Matt Weave
It is constructed by extending the plain weave both vertically and horizontally.
Combination of warp and weft rib.Loose structure. The smallest matt weave is 2 / 2 (2) (X) matt.
Basket weave fabrics are more flexible and wrinkle-resistant because there is less interlacing per
square inch.
Regular Matt Weave
Formula number: X/X
(X) [ X=Number of warp up in repeat]
The combination of regular warp and
weft rib weave produces it.
Irregular Matt Weave
Formula number: X/Y (X+Y) [ X=Number of warp up in repeat and Y=Number of weft up in repeat]
Stitched Matt Weave
Formula number: X/X (X) [ X=Number of warp up in repeat]
In this weave stitch is used to avoid looseness of yarn in the fabric.
Fancy Matt Weave
Formula number: X/X (X) [ X=Number of warp up in repeat]
In stitched matt, the stitching thread is hidden by the neighboring threads. But in the fancy matt the stitching threads
are not hidden, they are visible.
Types of the Twill
Warp Way
In the warp way twill float in the direction of the warp.

Weft Way
In the weft way twill float in the direction of the weft.
S Twill
When the twill runs from the lower right to the upper left corner, the twill is known as a left-hand twill. It is produced
by downward displacement of the interlacing points, if the starting point is bottom left corner or upward displacement
of the interlacing points, if the starting point is bottom right corner.

Z Twill
When the diagonal line runs from the lower left
corner to the upper right corner, the twill is known
as a right-hand twill. About 85% of all twill-woven
fabrics are right-hand twill. The alignment of the
twill Line is parallel to the middle portion of ‘Z’, so it
is called Z – twill.
Comparisons between plain weave and Twill Weave

Reference
1. https://textilelearner.net/twill-weave-features-classification-derivatives-and-uses/
2. https://textilestudycenter.com/plain-weave-definition-and-plain-weave-classification/

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