Cosmetic Ingredients and

their Functions
Lesson 2
Any cosmetic products available in the market
are required by the Food and Drug
Administration (FDA) to have its INCI labels.
INCI stands for “International Nomenclature
of Cosmetic Ingredients,” a system of names
for ingredients, botanicals, and chemicals
used to manufacture cosmetic products.
Cosmetic labels also include the product’s
shelf life, testing procedure, manufacturer,
distributor, and other properties.
 QUESTIO
N
Do you read what is written on
cosmetics packaging and
labels?
 QUESTIO
N
What are the pieces of
information you can find on
cosmetics’ packaging and
labels?
 QUESTIO
N
What is the importance of
reading cosmetic labels?
 Cosmetics

If we would try to formulate cosmetic

products, we need to consider the different
ingredients and their respective functions.

There are four main categories of

ingredients among cosmetics products:
 Categories of
Ingredients

Functional Ingredients –
these are the main ingredients
chosen to perform the primary
function of the cosmetic
product.
 Categories of
Ingredients

Structural
Ingredients – provide
the structure and form
of the product
 Categories of
Ingredients

Supportive
ingredients – improve
the stability and shelf life
of the product
 Categories of
Ingredients

Added Extra – added in a

small amount to add consumer
acceptance and to make the
product more marketable
 Cosmetic
Ingredients
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Abrasives
−These are used to remove
skin cells or plaque from
teeth through friction.
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Examples:
o Body exfoliants/scrubs – oat kernel meal, salt, sugar,
walnut shell powder, hydrogenated jojoba wax
o Toothpaste abrasives – silica, sodium bicarbonate
 Cosmetic Ingredients
Antioxidants
− They reduce oxidation and rancidity from occurring over time.
− They act as supportive ingredients to lengthen the shelf life of
the product.
− They are marketed as skin nurturers.
Examples:
o Vitamins – tocopherol (Vitamin E)
o Plant extracts – green tea leaf extract, chamomile flower
extract, rosemary leaf extract, and grape seed extract
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Chelating Agents
− They are also known as sequestrants.
− They help improve the product’s stability by binding
metal ions that may be present in other raw
materials.
− They are essential in foaming products as they bind
ions in hard water and prevent deterioration of the
foam.
Examples: Citric acid, Disodium
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and Tetrasodium
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA)
 Cosmetic Ingredients
Colorants
− These are used to give color to a product or the skin.
− Most of the colorants are synthetically made.
Examples: Acid Green, Basic Yellow, Iron oxide red, and
Chromium oxide green
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Cosmetic Astringents
− They induce a tightening and
toning effect on the skin.
− They are commonly found in
skin toner, astringents, and
aftershave lotion
Examples: Alcohols and Witch
hazel extract
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Emulsion Stabilizer
− It stabilizes the emulsion once formed and
prevents the separation of oil and water in
the emulsion.
− It also serves as a thickening agent.
Examples: Xanthan gum, Cellulose gum,
Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates, alkyl
acrylate cross polymer, and carbomer
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Exfoliants
− They remove dead skin cell
layers by dissolving
intracellular “cement” holding
surface skin cells together.
− They are usually found in skin
whitening or skin peel products
in the presence of low pH.
Examples: Glycolic acid, Lactic
acid, and Salicylic acid
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Fragrance
− This is used to enhance
the products’ smell or to
mask undesirable
odors/scents.
Examples: Essential oils
 Cosmetic Ingredients
Hair Conditioning Agents
− These are used to condition and improve the
hair’s appearance, gloss, and shine while
facilitating styling and reducing the static of
the hair.
− They improve the texture of the hair that has
been dried through styling, chemical exposure,
or environmental drying.
Examples: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride, Behentrimonium methosulfate,
Amodimethicone, Cetrimonium chloride,
Polyquaternium-7, and Quaternium-22
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Hair Fixatives
− They are used to hold the
hair styles in place.
Examples:
o Acrylic acid/VP cross
polymer and VP/VA
copolymer
 Cosmetic Ingredients
Opacifying Agents
− They are added to shampoos and
shower gels to make them appear
pearlescent.
− They provide consumers with the
impression that the product is rich and
creamy.
Examples: Glycol Stearate, Propylene
glycol stearate, and Stearamide
Monoethanolamine (MEA) stearate
 Cosmetic Ingredients
pH Adjusters
− They adjust the pH of the product
at the desired range.
− They can be considered as Acids
(lower the pH) and bases (raise the
pH).
Examples:
o Acids – citric acid, lactic acid
o Bases – potassium hydroxide,
sodium hydroxide, and
triethanolamine
 Cosmetic Ingredients
Preservatives
− They prevent or retard microbial growth in cosmetics.
Examples: Diazolidinyl urea, Methylparaben,
Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben, and Sodium
hydroxymethylglycinate
 Cosmetic Ingredients
Skin Conditioning Agents
● Emollients- impart softness to the skin by remaining on
the upper layer of the skin and reduce flaking
Examples: Cocoglycerides, caprylic/capric triglycerides,
Isopropyl myristate, Dimethicone, and mineral oil
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Skin Conditioning Agents

● Humectants – retard moisture loss by holding water within
the surface layers of the skin and drawing in moisture from the
air
Examples: Glycerin, Propylene glycol, and Sodium hyaluronate
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Skin Conditioning Agents

● Occlusive – blocks the
evaporation of water from the
surface of the skin, keeping it
moist and increasing its water
content
Examples: Shea butter, Jojoba seed
oil, Caprylic/capric triglycerides, and
Propylene glycol dioleate
 Cosmetic Ingredients
Solvents
− These are liquids that are used to dissolve constituents or
act as carriers in cosmetic products.
Examples: Water, Alcohol, Butylene glycol, Glycerine, and
Propylene glycol
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Sunscreen Agents
− They are used to protect the
skin from UV radiation.
Examples: Benzophenone-3,
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane,
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,
titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Surfactants – They are surface-

active agents and have the ability
to modify the surface of the
substance.
● Cleansing Agents - produce
foam and clean the surface of
the skin or hair
Examples: Cocoyl glucoside,
Decyl glucoside, Cocamidopropyl
betaine, Sodium lauryl sulfate,
Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and
Sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Surfactants – They are surface-

active agents and have the ability to
modify the surface of the substance.
● Emulsifying Agents – used to
mix oils and water in an emulsion
Examples: Cetearyl alcohol, stearic
acid, Ceteareth-20, and PEG-100
stearate
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Surfactants – They are surface-active

agents and have the ability to modify the
surface of the substance.
● Solubilizers – used to dissolve
substances that are usually insoluble in
a continuous medium
Examples: Laureth-20, PEG-40
hydrogenated castor oil, and Polysorbate
80
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Viscosity Increasing Agents -

Aqueous
− These thicken the water-soluble
components of the product.
Examples: Agar, Xanthan gum, Guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,
Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates,
alkyl acrylate cross polymer, and
carbomer
 Cosmetic Ingredients

Viscosity Increasing Agents –

Non-Aqueous
− These thicken the oil-soluble
components of the product.
Examples: Beeswax, Candelilla
wax, Stearalkonium bentonite,
Microcrystalline wax, and Silica
dimethyl silylate.
EXAMPLE:

2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

Functional Ingredients Surfactants specifically
cleansing agent - to cleanse
the hair
Hair conditioning agents - to
perform its second function
Structural Ingredients Viscosity Increasing Agent –
increases the thickness
Solvents – dissolve all the
ingredients
EXAMPLE:

2-in-1 Shampoo and Conditioner

Supportive ingredients Chelating agent – binds active
ingredients to hard water and makes
the foam stable
pH Adjuster – to control the pH level
Preservatives – lengthen the shelf
life of the product
Added Extra Fragrance – adds desirable scent
Colorant – to obtain a presentable
color of the product
Opacifying Agent – makes the
shampoo pearlescent
ACTIVITY
-End