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Denim Processing

This document discusses the denim processing steps involved in creating denim garments. It begins with definitions of key terms like denim fabric composition. The basic process involves indigo dyeing the warp yarns, weaving, and converting the fabric into garments. There are then wet and dry processing steps to create finishes like stone washing, sand blasting, acid washing. Wet processing includes desizing, abrasion, bleaching, and softening. Various chemicals are used at different stages and enzymes provide benefits over traditional chemical processes. The document provides details on chemical recipes and parameters for key wet processing steps.

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Prem Sidharth
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444 views14 pages

Denim Processing

This document discusses the denim processing steps involved in creating denim garments. It begins with definitions of key terms like denim fabric composition. The basic process involves indigo dyeing the warp yarns, weaving, and converting the fabric into garments. There are then wet and dry processing steps to create finishes like stone washing, sand blasting, acid washing. Wet processing includes desizing, abrasion, bleaching, and softening. Various chemicals are used at different stages and enzymes provide benefits over traditional chemical processes. The document provides details on chemical recipes and parameters for key wet processing steps.

Uploaded by

Prem Sidharth
Copyright
© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PPT, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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DENIM PROCESSING

DEFINITIONS
DENIM : A Firm 2/1 or 3/1 cotton twill-weave fabric with dyed blue warp and raw white weft. ( similar to yarn dyed fabric ) Warp is dyed with indigo dyes . Various dyeing methods, recipes, concentrations, the reactions and oxidation time influences the effect and characteristics of the finishes

Basic Process line


Stone washed
Desized

Fabric is converted into garments Sized Indigo-dye warp and raw white weft Woven in a 2/1 or 3/1 twill weave

Garment process
DENIM PROCSSING

DRY PROCESS

WET PROCESS

Scraping

Sand blasting

KMnO4 Spray

Acid wash

Dry process
Sand blasting : to produce localized abrasion Scraping : manual scraping using sand paper or grinding machine as per design KMnO4 Spraying : an alternative blasting technique Acid wash : use of thremocol ball and bleach in a single belly machine

Denim Wet processing


Desizing : a process intended to remove size finish constituents from fabric before enzyme wash or bleaching Abrasion : a process which facilitates the indigo dye to be removed from the surface of the cotton fibre . Bleaching : a process intended to decolorize indigo by using bleach liquor (NaOCl) Softener wash : to improve the hand feel of the garment

by cationic or silicone softener

Chemicals and their uses


Non ionic wetting agent : to increase the absorbency of the garments Lubricating agent : to avoid streak formation Amylase : an enzyme used to break down insoluble starch to soluble glucose ( 90 % of sizing material contains insoluble starch ) Pumice stone : used during denim washing to get the grain effect ( replaced by enzyme to large extent )

Continued
Anti back staining agent : to avoid re deposition of the indigo dyes on the fabric surface Cellulase : an enzyme used to weaken the cotton fiber and hence increase abrasion NaOCl : Sodium hypochlorite used to lighten the shade of indigo Laccase : enzyme used to decolorize indigo ( by converting indigo into colorless compound called Isatin ) Softeners : to improve hand feel and protect the denim from Ozone

Benefits of using enzymes


Maximized fabric strength retention Stone free processing Fast processing Improved wash look No or less Garment damage No machine damage Easy handling and cost effective

Desizing
MRL pH Temp Time : 1: 5 to 1 : 10 : 5 to 6.5 : 60 Deg C : 20 min

Chemicals ad dosage :
non ionic wetting agent ( 1 gpl ) Lubricating agent ( 0.5 gpl ) Anti back staining agent ( 0.5 to 1 gpl ) Amylase ( 0.5 to 1 gpl ) ( enzyme for breaking down starch into soluble glucose )

Abrasion
MRL pH Temp Time : 1: 5 to 1 : 10 : 6.5 : 55 Deg C : 20 to 45 min

Chemicals :
Anti back staining agent ( 0.5 gpl to 1 gpl ) Cellulase( 0.5 to 1 gpl )( enzyme for weakening cotton fiber by converting the cellulase into glucose )

Bleaching
MRL pH Temp Time : 1: 5 to 1 : 10 : neutral : Room Temp : depends on the shade

Chemicals :
NaOCl

Bio bleach
MLR pH Temp Time :1:5 to 1:10 : 4 to 5.5 : 60 to 70 Deg C :15 to 20 min

Chemical used :
Laccase :1 gpl to 2 gpl

Special finishes
Pigment spray Direct and reactive dye tinting Transfer printing Rubber feel Indigo retention Permanent crease Raw ( or undesized ) look

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