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Girdling Trees to Create Snags and
Coarse Woody Debris and to
Improve Wildlife Habitat
By John Lampe
Green Shoots, LLC
January 28, 2014
Three Reasons to Create Snags
• Thin trees in dense woodlands
• To open up areas for prairies and savannas
• To create habitat for wildlife

2
Woodlands Are Becoming Too Dense
• Big trees need space
– With less natural fire, forests are becoming too
dense. See e.g., Knapp et al. 2013.

• Prairies and savannas are becoming scarcer
partly because of woody encroachment

3
North American Oak Savannas
• One of “most threatened plant communities
in the world.”
• Only 30,000 acres today. SavannaOak.org.
• Less than 0.01% of original oak savannas
remain. NRCS Missouri 2003.

4
“Christmas tree plantation” 1964; planted
in oak savanna habitat

5
Same Location April, 2013

Dense woodland with small trees: poor wildlife habitat

6
We have too many (small) trees
• Fire suppression
• Thinning in conventional ways is very labor
intensive, especially for small landholder
without sophisticated equipment

7
• Pile of trees from 35 acres thinned to restore oak woodland
• Whether burned or cut and hauled – lots of biomass !
• With sawmills closing, low quality, tree biomass is less and
less valuable on the open market
8
One small way to reduce excess
biomass is to create snags and “Coarse
Woody Debris”

9
Coarse Woody Debris and Snags
• “More than a third of our wildlife species . . .
are dependent on dead and dying wood for
their survival and well-being.” Bottorff 2009.

10
Too Little Coarse Woody Debris in
Forests
National Park Service, Northeast Temperate
Network, 2009: “good coarse woody debris
abundance requires that CWD [coarse woody
debris] volume be greater than 15% the volume
of live tree volume.”

11
Girdling and topping as way to:
• Thin woodlands
• Open prairie areas
• Increase dead wood

12
Girdling and topping opens area for prairie

13
Does girdling and “non-natural” tree
mortality create good snags?
• Some research says “artificially created” snags
are not as “biologically rich.” Shea et al. 2002.
• The following photos are of trees created
either by topping or girdling; all trees indicate
heavy foraging by woodpeckers

14
Topped Scots
pine

15
Girdled Scots pine

16
Girdled
aspen

17
Girdled
aspen

18
Scots pine;
uncertain
mortality;
but very
attractive!

19
Aspen;
uncertain
mortality

20
Artificially Created Snags
• Artificially created snags may not be optimal;
not much data
• However, they do appear to add substantial
benefit based simply on signs of heavy
foraging

21
Snag Creation
• Pines – one person can girdle about 20 to 50
trees (10 to 15 in dia.) in an afternoon
• With a snag you also don’t have to haul away
the tree or burn debris

22
Versus Cutting as Method of Thinning
• In contrast, cutting down even 5 trees in
dense woodland might be tough in same time
• Cut trees are constantly caught in branches

• My belief: You can thin a forest much faster by
girdling than you can by cutting a tree down

23
Timing of Girdling
• Some sources may advocate girdling in spring
or fall when bark is “slipping.”
• Outer bark may come off easier at these times
• However, I have found that it may be harder
to fully remove phloem layer at these times;
phloem becomes slippery
• (It’s also messier because of sap flow.)

24
Timing of Girdling (con.)
•
•
•
•
•

I like to girdle trees in late fall or winter
Sap is not flowing heavily
Phloem seems to be easier to remove
Easier to move through forest with less foliage
Work is physical and keeps you warm

25
How to Create Snags
• I divide into two categories:
– Easy to girdle trees (examples: Scots
pine, aspen, box elder)
– Hard to girdle trees (example: red pine and, I
believe, most trees with fire resistance)

26
Easy to Girdle Trees – Mechanical
Method

27
Steps to mechanical girdle
(no herbicide):
• Strip bark around circumference of tree using
a draw knife (Make sure it’s sharp!)
• Create band of stripped bark about foot high
• Remove all the phloem (live, inner bark) or
tree will survive; even a small, connected strip
may be enough to support tree.
• Wait – it may take up to 1.5 years to die

28
Tough to Girdle Trees
Some trees are very tough to kill with a
mechanical girdle; I believe these are probably
trees that are also more fire resistant

29
2nd girdle

1st girdle

3rd girdle

This red
pine has
been girdled
3 times;
we’ll see if it
finally dies.
30
Steps to kill a hard-to-kill tree with
herbicide

31
First, cut frills with hatchet
or similar tool near base of tree;
be sure you penetrate into phloem,
i.e., the live, inner bark. Don’t
space cuts more than inch apart.

32
Apply herbicide to frill cuts; this
example shows foam herbicide
with blue indicator dye.
33
Note on Applying Herbicide
• I have used glyphosate at label rates for frill or
cut stump (typically tank solution has 20% to
30% active ingredient)
• It will still take a year or so for pine tree to die
even though herbicide is used. (not sure why.)
• As always, follow herbicide label.

34
Other factors to consider: fire hazard
• Fire hazard – Stephens et al 2012 most to least
dangerous fuel types in forest:
– Surface fuels dead and down woody
materials, litter, grasses, herbaceous plant
materials. shrubs
– Ladder fuels – small trees and tall shrubs
– crown fuels – overstory; small component (This is
presumably where snags fit in.)
– Ground fuels – duff and material on soil surface
35
Snags as fall hazard
• General advice: don’t create snags near
trails, roads, or where people will be.

36
In my experience: as tree rots it becomes very light;
most snags that fall in a forest catch in the branches
of other trees.
37
Topping Trees

38
Topping Trees
• Advantages:
– Great way to rapidly open up an area; especially
helpful in prairie areas
– Works best for small trees
– Create really nice perches for birds

• Disadvantages:
– More time consuming than girdling
– Have to climb tree
39
Conclusions
(based on experience; not hard data):

First: Girdling and topping trees does create
snags that are good food
sources, i.e., “artificially created” snags provide
benefits to wildlife.

40
Conclusions
• Second: You can thin a woodland far faster by
girdling than by cutting down trees (unless
highly mechanized).

41
Conclusions
Third: Girdle patches of multiple trees or trees
near openings so they can be found by
woodpeckers; trees in the middle of dense
woods seem less attractive or may be tougher
for woodpeckers to find.

42
Conclusions
• Fourth: for trees that are not fire-resistant
(e.g., aspen, Scots pine), girdling can be done
without herbicide.

43
Conclusions
• Fifth: for trees that are fire resistant (like red
pine) or are tough to girdle (e.g., lots of knots
or thick bark), girdling should include
injections of herbicide into frills cut around
the tree.

44
More Information
• Green Shoots®: www.greenshootsonline.com
• Contact: john@greenshootsonline.com

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Girdling Trees to Create Snags and Coarse Wood Debris and to Improve Wildlife Habitat

  • 1. Girdling Trees to Create Snags and Coarse Woody Debris and to Improve Wildlife Habitat By John Lampe Green Shoots, LLC January 28, 2014
  • 2. Three Reasons to Create Snags • Thin trees in dense woodlands • To open up areas for prairies and savannas • To create habitat for wildlife 2
  • 3. Woodlands Are Becoming Too Dense • Big trees need space – With less natural fire, forests are becoming too dense. See e.g., Knapp et al. 2013. • Prairies and savannas are becoming scarcer partly because of woody encroachment 3
  • 4. North American Oak Savannas • One of “most threatened plant communities in the world.” • Only 30,000 acres today. SavannaOak.org. • Less than 0.01% of original oak savannas remain. NRCS Missouri 2003. 4
  • 5. “Christmas tree plantation” 1964; planted in oak savanna habitat 5
  • 6. Same Location April, 2013 Dense woodland with small trees: poor wildlife habitat 6
  • 7. We have too many (small) trees • Fire suppression • Thinning in conventional ways is very labor intensive, especially for small landholder without sophisticated equipment 7
  • 8. • Pile of trees from 35 acres thinned to restore oak woodland • Whether burned or cut and hauled – lots of biomass ! • With sawmills closing, low quality, tree biomass is less and less valuable on the open market 8
  • 9. One small way to reduce excess biomass is to create snags and “Coarse Woody Debris” 9
  • 10. Coarse Woody Debris and Snags • “More than a third of our wildlife species . . . are dependent on dead and dying wood for their survival and well-being.” Bottorff 2009. 10
  • 11. Too Little Coarse Woody Debris in Forests National Park Service, Northeast Temperate Network, 2009: “good coarse woody debris abundance requires that CWD [coarse woody debris] volume be greater than 15% the volume of live tree volume.” 11
  • 12. Girdling and topping as way to: • Thin woodlands • Open prairie areas • Increase dead wood 12
  • 13. Girdling and topping opens area for prairie 13
  • 14. Does girdling and “non-natural” tree mortality create good snags? • Some research says “artificially created” snags are not as “biologically rich.” Shea et al. 2002. • The following photos are of trees created either by topping or girdling; all trees indicate heavy foraging by woodpeckers 14
  • 21. Artificially Created Snags • Artificially created snags may not be optimal; not much data • However, they do appear to add substantial benefit based simply on signs of heavy foraging 21
  • 22. Snag Creation • Pines – one person can girdle about 20 to 50 trees (10 to 15 in dia.) in an afternoon • With a snag you also don’t have to haul away the tree or burn debris 22
  • 23. Versus Cutting as Method of Thinning • In contrast, cutting down even 5 trees in dense woodland might be tough in same time • Cut trees are constantly caught in branches • My belief: You can thin a forest much faster by girdling than you can by cutting a tree down 23
  • 24. Timing of Girdling • Some sources may advocate girdling in spring or fall when bark is “slipping.” • Outer bark may come off easier at these times • However, I have found that it may be harder to fully remove phloem layer at these times; phloem becomes slippery • (It’s also messier because of sap flow.) 24
  • 25. Timing of Girdling (con.) • • • • • I like to girdle trees in late fall or winter Sap is not flowing heavily Phloem seems to be easier to remove Easier to move through forest with less foliage Work is physical and keeps you warm 25
  • 26. How to Create Snags • I divide into two categories: – Easy to girdle trees (examples: Scots pine, aspen, box elder) – Hard to girdle trees (example: red pine and, I believe, most trees with fire resistance) 26
  • 27. Easy to Girdle Trees – Mechanical Method 27
  • 28. Steps to mechanical girdle (no herbicide): • Strip bark around circumference of tree using a draw knife (Make sure it’s sharp!) • Create band of stripped bark about foot high • Remove all the phloem (live, inner bark) or tree will survive; even a small, connected strip may be enough to support tree. • Wait – it may take up to 1.5 years to die 28
  • 29. Tough to Girdle Trees Some trees are very tough to kill with a mechanical girdle; I believe these are probably trees that are also more fire resistant 29
  • 30. 2nd girdle 1st girdle 3rd girdle This red pine has been girdled 3 times; we’ll see if it finally dies. 30
  • 31. Steps to kill a hard-to-kill tree with herbicide 31
  • 32. First, cut frills with hatchet or similar tool near base of tree; be sure you penetrate into phloem, i.e., the live, inner bark. Don’t space cuts more than inch apart. 32
  • 33. Apply herbicide to frill cuts; this example shows foam herbicide with blue indicator dye. 33
  • 34. Note on Applying Herbicide • I have used glyphosate at label rates for frill or cut stump (typically tank solution has 20% to 30% active ingredient) • It will still take a year or so for pine tree to die even though herbicide is used. (not sure why.) • As always, follow herbicide label. 34
  • 35. Other factors to consider: fire hazard • Fire hazard – Stephens et al 2012 most to least dangerous fuel types in forest: – Surface fuels dead and down woody materials, litter, grasses, herbaceous plant materials. shrubs – Ladder fuels – small trees and tall shrubs – crown fuels – overstory; small component (This is presumably where snags fit in.) – Ground fuels – duff and material on soil surface 35
  • 36. Snags as fall hazard • General advice: don’t create snags near trails, roads, or where people will be. 36
  • 37. In my experience: as tree rots it becomes very light; most snags that fall in a forest catch in the branches of other trees. 37
  • 39. Topping Trees • Advantages: – Great way to rapidly open up an area; especially helpful in prairie areas – Works best for small trees – Create really nice perches for birds • Disadvantages: – More time consuming than girdling – Have to climb tree 39
  • 40. Conclusions (based on experience; not hard data): First: Girdling and topping trees does create snags that are good food sources, i.e., “artificially created” snags provide benefits to wildlife. 40
  • 41. Conclusions • Second: You can thin a woodland far faster by girdling than by cutting down trees (unless highly mechanized). 41
  • 42. Conclusions Third: Girdle patches of multiple trees or trees near openings so they can be found by woodpeckers; trees in the middle of dense woods seem less attractive or may be tougher for woodpeckers to find. 42
  • 43. Conclusions • Fourth: for trees that are not fire-resistant (e.g., aspen, Scots pine), girdling can be done without herbicide. 43
  • 44. Conclusions • Fifth: for trees that are fire resistant (like red pine) or are tough to girdle (e.g., lots of knots or thick bark), girdling should include injections of herbicide into frills cut around the tree. 44
  • 45. More Information • Green Shoots®: www.greenshootsonline.com • Contact: [email protected]