FINISHES TO WOODEN FURNITURE AND OTHERS.pdf
- 1. FINISHES TO FURNITURE By: Surashmie Kaalmegh
- 2. Types of finishes Two basic types : Basic & Decorative Choosing a finish for wood = two essential factors
- 3. TYPES OF FINISHES REASONS : DEPENDS ON : To protect To bring out its natural beauty To increase its durability To enhance / adorn. To add to its appearance To make comfortable To make maintenance easy Effect / impact desired , wear and tear, usage / function Some finishes can be mixed & some cannot Each finish has its own individual --- application techniques; tools & materials. but one need common ----is a dust-free environment during application.
- 4. I ) BASIC FINISHES 1 .LACQUER 2 .POLISHING / SHELLAC 3 .VARNISHING 4.PENETRATING RESIN 5.WAXING AND 6.OILING Veneering Parquetry Marquetry Etching Decoupage /decal Japanning Enameling Types of finishes II) Decorative finishes Intarsia Carving Gilding Embossing Inlay engraving painting • Upholstery Canework • wood turning
- 5. Applying varnish is difficult, but the results are good. Varnish is protective ( a surface coat) . durability appearance Choosing a finish (2 essential factors) :- varnish and penetrating resin Are better Penetrating resin sinks & hardens into the wood Give a natural look and feel; stand up to heavy use it is easy to apply, reapply & Doesn’t chip or craze Oil,--- produces natural finish. Shellac dries fast but easy to use
- 6. Every finishing material will have Specifications & features …….. For interior and spot exterior use Greatest stain sealer Seals knots and sap streaks Seals pet, smoke and musty odors Sticks to all surfaces without sanding Lightning fast dry - recoat in 45 minutes • Low odor • Effectively primes and seals charred or smoke stained surfaces • Holds back water- soluble stains and most “bleeding” stains such as lipstick, crayon, and grease • Does not raise the grain of wood • Seals porous surfaces such as old flat wall paints and patches on previously painted surfaces • Interior
- 7. . Defects in wood
- 12. Issues due to wear & tear ( wood furnitures )
- 14. Maintenance issues Touch up Repaint Re-polish Repair Renovate Rejuvenate Recycle Discard
- 15. defects in wood
- 16. Surface preparation for wood finishes: 1.Cleaning – to remove dust & lint Repairing – to remove any faults or defects 2 Sanding - to smoothen surface 3 Sealing - to hide flaws , to seal fine cracks etc. 4 Base coat – initial coat Drying -- a coat needs to dry before applying any other finish. 5 Re-coating --- 2nd ,3rd coat 6 Drying – drying of a given coat. 7 .Buffing – to rub vigorously so as to shine. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
- 18. 1. Cleaning & Sanding Cleaning – to remove dust & lint Sanding - to smoothen surface
- 19. 2. Defects in wood Repairing – to remove any faults or defects
- 20. 3. Wood primers / sealers A primer/sealer paint seals the surface of wood so the paint does not soak into it. At the same time some of the natural oils in wood might react with the paint and cause it to discolor. Seals pores & therefore smoothens the wood surface Sealing - to hide flaws , to seal fine cracks etc.
- 21. 4. Base coats Base coat – initial coat & Drying -- a coat needs to dry before applying any other finish.
- 22. 5. Second coat Re-coating --- 2nd ,3rd coat….
- 23. 6.Drying – drying of a given coat.
- 24. 7. Buffing – to rub vigorously so as to shine.
- 25. Basic finishes
- 26. Wood stain finishes A wood stain consists of a colorant suspended or dissolved in a 'vehicle' or solvent. The suspension agent can be water, alcohol, petroleum distillate, or the actual finishing agent (shellac, lacquer, varnish, polyurethane, etc.). Stain is composed of the same three primary ingredients as paint (pigment, solvent, and binder) but is predominantly pigment (or dye) and solvent with little binder.
- 29. OILING
- 30. What does oiling do for wood preservation ? The oiling is the soaking of the wood with natural vegetable oils. Because the oils are in liquid form, the impregnate penetrates deeply into the structure of the wood and hardens it from the inside. Does oiling wood protect it? The oil is designed to give unparalleled protection against UV light (fading) and fungi moulding. It contains no artificial resins or varnishes. The oil can be used on a complete range of woods in both internal and external applications (including teak), however it best suits the protection of exterior hardwoods.
- 31. • Linseed Oil. Linseed oil, also known as flaxseed oil, is one of the most popular wood finishes in the world. ... • Tung Oil. Tung oil is a plant-based oil used as a wood finish. ... • Mineral Oil. Mineral oil is a broadly used term to describe a clear, odorless oil. ... • Walnut Oil. ... • Danish Oil. Best Oil Finishes for Wood Furniture
- 32. Oiling to wood : The best method for bringing out the natural characteristics of wood grain is to use a penetrating oil like Tung oil, Walnut oil or double boiled Linseed oil.
- 34. Penetrating Resin for wood
- 35. Polishing
- 36. = POLLISHING = Shellac - A clear finish rarely used as such today except in restoring period furniture. Positives: Brilliant shine. Negatives: Highly susceptible to damage from almost any liquid, including alcohol (mixed drinks will cut right through it), fruit juices (ditto), even water will damage it if left to stand. Shellac is used primarily today as a sealer and under coat. It can be used under lacquer or varnish, as well as some polyurethanes.
- 37. Mahogany : Orange shellac finish
- 38. Lacquer
- 40. A KIT / PACKAGE
- 41. Lacquer : clear or coloured varnish that dries by solvent EVAPORATION and often a curing process as well that produces a hard, durable finish, Sheen level -- ultra matte to high gloss (clear form /several clear stain color ) Since Lacquer dries fast -- sometimes instantly – it is very difficult to work with. Brushing lacquers are not recommended . Amateur use & spraying must be applied with a motorized spray gun only fastest-drying finish.durable, Application in many thin coats. •Lacquer can be applied with aerosol spray cans, this is expensive, but good.
- 42. Lacquer It's important to know the type to use for the job Positives: •variety of sheens, • Easily applied –( brush or aerosol.) •Dries quickly (with a brush, work is fast.) •Most retail brands require no substrate sealer. • Damaged finishes can usually be •repaired without stripping •best suited for showing off wood grain. Negatives: Easily scratched and susceptible to water damage. Lacquer fumes can be both toxic & explosive. hence used for small jobs, Lacquer is used on 99% of all commercially manufactured furniture with a clear finish.
- 44. Staining before lacquering Lacquering : Spraying & with hand Matching colours
- 45. Varnishing
- 46. = Varnish = Varnish - A clear finish / transparent protective finish Or film Positives: Much more durable than lacquer. Slow drying (allows more time to work). Most minor damage can be repaired without stripping. Negatives: Slow drying time allows dust motes to settle in finish. Tendency for beginners to 'over-brush' when applying the finish, resulting in brush marks in the dried finish. Although you can handle a varnished piece the next day, varnish hasn't cured completely until about a month later. a combination of a drying oil, a resin, and a thinner or solvent Originated in India , China , korea Japan & Egypt
- 47. Provides radiant beauty to the wood. Helps in protecting the wood by binding the surface. Helps to prevent hairline cracks and absorb the effects of scratching and external damage. Helps in reducing the transfer of moisture between the wood and the surrounding weather. Provides softness and lasting flexibility. Disadvantage of Varnish Becomes yellowish after a certain time.
- 48. VARNISHING: it’s a toughest finish & very superior to other traditional finishes . It enhances & gives warmth to the wood It is resistant to impact ,heat, abrasion, water & alcohol etc. It is also applied as a top coat over other worn out finishes. It provides a clear finish, but darkens wood slightly. Available as HIGH GLOSS ,SEMI- GLOSS SATIN , MATTE , FLAT. TRADITIONAL VARNISHES ARE BASED ON NATURAL RESINS & OILS THINNED BY MINERAL SPIRITS OR TURPENTINE. synthetic varnishes have synthetic resins & require special thinners. WATER BASED ARE THE BEST AS THEY ARE NON TOXIC & DO NOT YELLOW LIKE THE SYNTHETIC ONES. Apply varnish first along the grain of the wood, flowing it on in even strips. Then apply more varnish across the grain to level and even the surface.
- 49. After leveling the varnish across the grain, smooth the surface by stroking it very lightly along the grain with an almost dry brush. Pick off dust and lint as you work. Provides radiant beauty to the wood. Helps in protecting the wood by binding the surface. Helps to prevent hairline cracks and absorb the effects of scratching and external damage. Helps in reducing the transfer of moisture between the wood and the surrounding weather. Provides softness and lasting flexibility. Disadvantage of Varnish Becomes yellowish after a certain time.
- 50. Painting
- 51. = Painting = Oil Based Paint Positives: Extremely durable. Suggested for children's furniture and any other application where severe abuse may be expected. Negatives: Same as latex paint with the addition of a somewhat messier cleanup. Latex Paint Positives: Easy to apply, to clean up. Suggested for any painted furniture where extreme wear or abuse is not a factor. Negatives: Sometimes difficult to clean a piece entirely when stripping. Repairing chips and scratches on older pieces may present a color match problem. On raw wood a primer is necessary.
- 56. Gilding / gilt work
- 57. Decorated with a thin application of gold or gold paint Gold leaf: Gold beaten into extremely thin sheets used especially for gilding. Gilding / silvering The process of gilding is several thousand years old Originated : Egypt Oil-gilding: This is the laying of gold leaf on the wood using gold-size. The OIL TYPE IS ---- USED IN FURNITURE
- 58. Processing: For gold leafing, the portion to be gilded is first coated with gesso (whiting and glue mixed in water) to make the surface smooth. When dry, it is painted with a light coat of "tack" varnish which makes the gold leaf adhere readily. After the leafing is finished, the frame is rubbed with small bat of lamb's wool which tightens the bond of gold leaf and tack and removes loose, overlapping fringes of the metal sheets. Finally, the parts intended for a bright finish are burnished.
- 59. Tools and techniques: gilding Burnisher : an oval agate fixed with a wooden handle Size: painters term for liquid glue or paste oil or water base of various types. Mordant: Gold size 12 -24 carat Gold leaf: Gold beaten into extremely thin sheets used especially for gilding. The method of gilding all frames, either partially or wholly, was the same. It was done only with gold leaf prepared in sheets about two by three inches in size. All gold leaf was made of pure gold, beaten tissue thin between leather skins with heavy mallets.
- 60. Gold Size Gilders Tips Rabbit Skin Glue Gilders Whiting Selhamin Poliment Bole Special Pale Polish Gilders Knives Gesso: preparation of whiting (of refined chalk& glue size)
- 61. Gilding: examples A completely gilded table and a table with gilded parts.
- 63. Gilding: examples A completely gilded table and a table with gilded parts.
- 66. Japanning
- 67. Japanning ( Indiawork ) OR ASIAN LACQUERWORK This technique of lacquering originated in EUROPE (ITALY) ---- AS an IMITATION OF LACQUER WORK FROM ASIAN COUNTRIES VIZ. INDIA , CHINA , JAPAN. • It is thick black lacquer with a resin base which hardens to brilliant Shine with careful applications of several coats. •It is usually decorated with painted designs in other colours. •Gold paint or gold leaf is very common as accent colour . •Instead of black other base colours are red ,blue, deep green etc A JAPANNED PIECE WAS EXTREMELY DURABLE, HARD AND IMPACT RESISTANT ONLY CRACKING WITH WEAR & TEAR •IMMENSELY POPULAR IN 18TH C EUROPEAN DRAWING ROOMS & USUALLY HAD ASIAN MOTIFS
- 68. Process in Japan
- 69. Japanning ( Indiawork ) OR ASIAN LACQUERWORK •thick black lacquer Base -resin (hardens to brilliant Shine with several coats.) •other base colours --- red ,blue, deep green originated in EUROPE (ITALY) ---- AS an IMITATION OF LACQUER WORK VIZ. INDIA , CHINA , JAPAN. A JAPANNED PIECE WAS EXTREMELY DURABLE, HARD AND IMPACT RESISTANT ONLY CRACKING WITH WEAR & TEAR IMMENSELY POPULAR IN 18TH C EUROPEAN DRAWING ROOMS & USUALLY HAD ASIAN MOTIFS •It is decorated with painted designs in other colours. (Golden is popular)
- 70. Carving
- 71. Carving :
- 72. Deep carving is usually two inches deep, or more. These carvings are replete with intricate floral and animal motifs. This requires a lot of labor and skill, and is the most expensive form of carving. Shallow carving is usually half an inch deep. In this form of carving, skilled artisans carve patterns on a flat surface. This form of carving is characterized by mythological themes. Latticework, involves ornate designs which are carved onto the wood. Mostly used for windows, this form of carving portrays carved motifs of interlaced foliage, animals, and birds, besides others. Semi-carving is done on a thin panel along the rim of a surface. This form of carving is a carver's delight since it allows the grains of wood to be displayed along with the carver's skills.
- 73. CARVING
- 74. CARVING Wood carving is a major indigenous craft of India This includes painted wood carvings, plain wood carvings and teak furniture. Using different varieties of decorations and painting especially vegetables and mineral colors.
- 75. Carving Tools
- 76. Carving Tools
- 77. Carving
- 82. Enameling
- 83. Enamelling :. It is tough, attractive, and easy to take care of unlike clear or transparent finishes. It covers a lot of flaws -- poor- quality or uninteresting wood, badly stained surfaces, and pieces made with very different types of wood can all be rescued with a coat of bright enamel. Used over bare wood or over an old finish, enamel can create a striking accent piece. Paint consists of pigments in an application vehicle or medium. Good enamel consists of pigments in a varnish, lacquer, or oil base. While enamel is as tough as varnish, paint produces a soft finish, and is not recommended for use on furniture. Oil-based enamel is generally superior to the latex type.
- 84. Enameling History Enameling is an old and widely-adopted technology. The ancient Egyptians applied enamels to pottery and stone objects. Other practitioners include the ancient Greeks, Celts, Russians, and the Chinese.
- 85. Inlay , marquetery , Intarsia
- 86. Wood Inlay Inlay is a decorative technique of inserting pieces of contrasting coloured materials into incisions/ depressions in an object to form Patterns / pictures Normally flush with surface Materials : shells , mother of pearl, ivory, horn or coloured stones (pietre dure) , wood veneers etc.
- 87. Inlay Wood veneer Inlay in wood : Greece
- 88. Inlay : process
- 90. The Taj Mahal Pietra Dura work Agra Florence c 1623 Parchin kari work.
- 91. Marquetry, is the art and craft of producing pictures and decorative designs by the skilful use of the grain, figure and colour of thin VENEERS of wood and other materials. In marquetry the design is applied to a prepared base material, unlike the related craft of inlay where decorative bandings or designs are let into a solid item for embellishment marquetry assembles a pattern out of veneers upon the carcase Marquetry originated in 17 th c Europe unlike Inlay marquetry is of wood veneers and covers the entire surface of the base.
- 93. A metal screw press A typical Marquetry picture press
- 94. All the peculiarities, grain, knots, defects, etc. are used in the overall effect of the picture. Marquetry is often found on the finest furniture. It has been around for thousands of years. Originated in Egypt, revived in Italy
- 95. The technique of intarsia inlays sections of wood (at times with contrasting ivory or bone) within the solid matrix; by contrast marquetry assembles a pattern out of veneers upon the carcase. The technique of intarsia is believed to have been introduced into Europe through Sicily, the art was perfected in Siena and in northern Italy in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, spreading to German centers and introduced into London by Flemish craftsmen in the later sixteenth century. After about 1620, marquetry INTARSIA
- 96. Intarsia
- 97. it originally developed in Siena, Italy in the 13th century by crafters using inlays of ivory inserted in wood as well as inlays of wood inserted into wall murals, table tops and other furniture. It is the craft of using varied shapes, sizes & species of wood fitted together to create an almost 3-D inlaid, mosaic-like picture. The word 'intarsia' is derived from the Latin word 'interserere' which means "to insert"
- 98. Intarsia
- 99. Decoupage
- 100. Decoupage is the art of decorating an object by gluing colored paper cutouts onto it in combination with special paint effects, gold leaf and so on Commonly an object like a small box or an item of furniture is covered by cutouts from magazines or from purpose -manufactured papers. Each layer is sealed with varnishes (often multiple coats) until the "stuck on" appearance disappears and the result looks like painting or inlay work. The traditional technique used 30-40 layers of varnish which were then sanded to a polished finish.
- 103. Items required for Decoupage : Pictures to decoupage with. These can come from myriad sources: newspapers, magazines, catalogs, books, printed clip art, wrapping paper, greeting cards, fabric, tissue paper, lace. Cutting items: Scissors, craft knife (X-Acto) or razor blades used. Glue: Standard white glue works best if it is diluted with a little water. Special glues can be used too. Smoother: Popsicle sticks work well. A brayer is a specialized tool like a miniature rolling pin designed to help remove wrinkles, remove excess glue and smooth pictures. Glue Spreader :Many things around the house can be use for this: cotton swabs, paint brushes, sponges. Rags, sponges, tissue paper to help wipe up glue and other clean up. From French to De’couper--- to cut out
- 104. Stencilling
- 105. Sealer: Glue or other decoupage medium can be used as a sealer. Alternatively, polyurethane, spray acrylic or other lacquers are usually used. Protecting the Surface: To prevent damage to the decals, the surface hould be sealed with varnish. Apply the varnish directly over the decals.
- 106. Stenciling Stencilling is the easiest way Of adding style to furniture. They can be applied over any finish. But best over VARNISH (Which is tacky) Attach the stencil & then paint Or powder bronze , copper etc. Seal stencil work with varnish Never remove stencil till the paint Is wet.
- 110. Engraving Engraving is the practice of incising a design on to a hard, usually flat surface, by cutting grooves into it. The result may be a decorated object in itself, as when silver, gold, steel, stone , wood or glass are engraved, or a plate of copper or another metal,or for printing images on paper as prints or illustrations; these images are also called engravings.
- 111. Engraving : Using a Graver Hand engraving Machine engraving
- 112. Engraving: tools
- 114. Etching : Etching is the process of using strong acid or mordant to cut into the unprotected parts of a metal surface to create a design in intaglio in the metal (the original process—in modern manufacturing other chemicals may be used on other types of material). As an intaglio method of printmaking it is, along with engraving, the most important technique for old master prints, and remains widely used today.
- 115. Intaglio ( for printing ) Depressions are cut on a printing plate. the grooves can be fractions of a mm wide. The plate is covered in ink The ink is wiped off the surface of the plate, but remains in the grooves Paper is placed on the plate and compressed, such as by a heavy roller The paper is removed, the ink has been transferred from the plate to the paper Intaglio engraving : Germany 1430
- 116. Embossing
- 117. Embossing :
- 120. Veneering
- 121. Veneer Today veneers are cut by heavy slicing machinery. Logs are pre-treated by soaking or steaming to soften the fibres and are then sliced by rotating the log or flitch against a blade. The cutting may be carried out at various angles to the growth rings of the log, resulting in different figures such as "crown cut", "rotary", "quartered" and "half- quartered" . • Veneers used to be sawn from logs, either by hand or by saw-mill, resulting in sheets of anything up to 1/4" thick and as much sawdust as usable veneer.
- 123. Half round Plain
- 124. Rift Quartered
- 125. Edging Vacu- press Edge bander veneer Rollers & Smoothing blades Example
- 126. Woodturning
- 127. Woodturning Woodturning is a form of woodworking that is used to create wooden objects on a lathe (see: also antique wooden polelathe). Woodturning differs from most other forms of woodworking in that the wood is moving while a stationary tool is used to cut and shape it. Many intricate shapes and designs can be made by turning wood.
- 128. There are two distinct methods of turning wood: spindle turning and faceplate turning. In spindle turning, the wood is fixed between 2 points. The spur center digs in to the wood and is powered by a motor. The other, a hard center or a live center may be a point or set of points in the tailstock. In face plate turning, the wood is secured with screws to a faceplate or in a chuck or jig. the tail stock and a center may also be used for added support on large pieces with a faceplate. Most bowls, platters and many vessels are face plate turned, while, Pens, furniture legs, spindles, and some vessels are spindle turned. The method used may differ depending on the shape of the blank and the technique of the turner, and both methods may be used on the same piece.
- 129. Wood turning : tools roughing gouge spindle / detail gouge bowl gouge skew chisel parting tool hollowing tool scraper, bowl saver Auger chatter tool Wire & others
- 136. UPHOLSTERY
- 137. Upholstery
- 138. There are five parts to many pieces of upholstered furniture: the frame, the springs, the padding, the material that covers it, called upholstery fabric, and sometimes cushions. Although many people may think of upholstery in terms of the material—often fabric—that covers the whole, it actually refers to everything besides the frame: the stuffing, springs, covering material, and cushions. The upholstery of a piece of furniture determines a great deal about how it looks and how it feels. To a large extent, it determines the cost. It determines whether the furniture feels--firm or soft. The type and quality of the upholstery also determines how it will last.
- 141. Upholstery fabric is very important in at least three ways: • It plays a large role in creating the style of the furniture it covers. • Its cleaning requirements and delicacy or durability play a large role in the type of use that the furniture is appropriate for and the time, energy, and expense involved in maintenance. • Its cost may represent the largest percentage of the cost of the entire piece of furniture.
- 143. Webbing - strong fabric woven as a flat strip or tube of varying width and fibers often used in place of rope. The name webbing comes from the meshed material frequently Webbing is used in couches and chairs as a base for the seating areas that is both strong and flexible. Many types of outdoor furniture use little more than thin light webbing for the seating areas. Webbing is also used to reinforce joints and areas that tend to flex.
- 145. Upholstery The frame style and the amount of support desired determine the type of foundation used in constructing upholstery. Eight-way, hand-tied, coil spring construction was once considered the hallmark of quality upholstery. In this type of foundation, each coil spring is placed in the seat by hand and tied into place with twine in a series of interlocking knots. Although eight-way, hand-tied coils are still a mark of fine craftsmanship, other construction techniques, including new steel spring configurations, offer equal comfort and durability. In general, the number of springs and how they are reinforced determines cost and quality.
- 146. Depending on the product's design, the back and seat cushions may include a combination of springs, cotton or polyester fiber, foam or down. Most upholstery cushions are made from some type of polyurethane foam. Density is used to gauge the durability of foam, and, generally, the higher the density the more durable (and more expensive) the cushion will be. Better quality upholstered furniture uses foam with a density rating of 1.8 to 2.5. Foam cushions should be wrapped or covered to protect the foam from direct contact with the upholstery fabric.
- 147. Cushioning High density polyurethane foam wrapped in Dacron is the most common (and least expensive) seat core in upholstered furniture. The density of foam and quantity of Dacron will determine the softness of the upholstered seat.
- 148. Spring-Down cushions consist of innerspring coils surrounded by foam and wrapped in Dacron. This whole unit is then inserted into a muslin bag of channeled blendown. The springs give the upholstered furniture support, while the blendown gives a luxurious surface feel.
- 149. Blendown cushions offer the softest seat, utilizing a combination of down & feathers sometimes wrapped around a foam core & then encased in a muslin bag. This cushion does not retain its shape without an occasional fluffing. Back cushions are primarily filled with Dacron fiber. Encasing the filling in a bag helps the cushions keep their proper shape. In better quality upholstered furniture, blendown is substituted for a more luxurious feel.
- 150. Blenddown cushions offer the softest seat, utilizing a combination of down & feathers sometimes wrapped around a foam core & then encased in a muslin bag. This cushion does not retain its shape without an occasional fluffing. Back cushions are primarily filled with Dacron fiber. Encasing the filling in a bag helps the cushions keep their proper shape. In better quality upholstered furniture, blendown is substituted for a more luxurious feel.
- 151. Fabrics for upholstery Cover components fall into just two basic categories: natural and synthetic. -- Natural components include cotton, linen, silk, wool and, of course, leather. -- Synthetics include acetate, acrylic, nylon, rayon and polypropylene. Many fabrics are woven with a combination of natural and synthetic fibers. Fabrics combining a tight weave and durable fibers like nylon or polypropylene are a good choice for active use. Leather is durable and chosen by many. Upholstery fabric is very important in at least three ways: • It plays a large role in creating the style of the furniture it covers. • Its cleaning requirements and delicacy or durability play a large role in the type of use that the furniture is appropriate for and the time, energy, and expense involved in maintenance. • Its cost may represent the largest percentage of the cost of the entire piece of furniture.
- 152. Canework
- 155. Ready made
- 156. Spline, Pressed, Machine Woven, Sheet, Roll, or Webbing Cane Traditional Hand Caning or Hole-to-Hole or Strand Caning
- 157. Checkerboard Seagrass Seat Weaving Paper Fibre Rush
- 158. Lattice or Rustic – Open Seat Weaving Splits or Splint Seat Weaving
- 159. Fancy Cane–Spiderweb, Star of David, Daisy, and Snowflake Cane Porch Cane, Binder Cane, or Slab Rattan Danish Modern–Cane or Cord
- 160. Rush–Natural Cattail Leaf or Bulrush and Paper Fibre Rush Cattail leaf Bulrush
- 165. Summarizing REASONS : DEPENDS ON : To protect / durability To bring out its natural beauty To increase its durability To enhance / adorn. To add to its appearance To make comfortable To make maintenance easy Effect / impact desired , wear and tear, usage / function