Harsha Parihar ,Fashion Designer ,NSQF Level-6
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This project report by Harsha Parihar from Dezyne E’cole College details the evolution of fashion from prehistory to the present, outlining significant historical periods such as medieval romance, the Renaissance, and the Baroque era. It provides insights into various clothing styles, fabrics, and cultural influences that shaped fashion trends over the centuries. The report highlights the transition from draped garments to tailored clothing, reflecting changes in society and technology throughout history.
Harsha Parihar ,Fashion Designer ,NSQF Level-6
- 1. FASHION TIMELINE Clothes that travel to us…….
- 2. Project Report On Fashion Timeline At Dezyne E’cole College Ajmer Submitted to Dezyne E’cole College Towards the Partial fulfillment Of NSQL Level 6 By Harsha Parihar 106/10, civil line, Ajmer Ph. 0145-2624679, 9829024839 www.dezyneecole.com 2015-2017
- 3. Acknowledgement I would like to convey my gratefulness to Dezyne E’cole college and for the guidance, study skill and knowledge which I learn . I am thankful to my mentors who give me this opportunity of making the project and help me to show my work ability through this project. Harsha Parihar 2nd Year Fashion Design Diploma Conforming to NSQF Level 6 of NSDC
- 4. Dezyne E’cole College Civil Lines, Ajmer www.dezyneecole.com This project report of Miss Harsha Parihar student of 2nd Year Advance Diploma in Fashion Design, confirming to NSQF Level 6 of NSDC, has been checked and graded as _____________________________________________________________ Thanking You Harsha Parihar Principal (seal & signature)
- 5. TIMELINE (History of clothing) Pre History (600CE) Medieval Romance Trade (600-1449) Renaissance Splendours (1450-1624) Baroque and Rococo (1625-1789) From Revolution to Frivolity (1790-1900) La Bella Epoque and Jazz Age (1901-1928) From Glamour to Utility (1929-1946) Optimism and Youth (1947-1963) Swinging Sixties to Glam Rock (1964-1979) The Designer Decades (1980 onwards)
- 6. Prehistory 600CE Egypt Minonian Culture Classical Greece Romance Byzantine Style 600-1449 Medival Romance and trade Trailing Elegance The East in the West 1450-1625 Renaissance -Splendour Eligabeth 1 Female Geometry Drape To Shape 1625-1789 Baroque and Rococo Men in Lace Robes Embroidered Mantua’s and petticoat Masquerade Softer Silhoutte 1790-1900 From Revolution to Frivolity Empire line Neo classical Crinolines Evening hourglass Bustles Soprtwear Developed 1901-1928 La Bella Epoque Jazz age Suit for City Gentlemen Jazz Age Coco Chanel Paul Poiret Roaring Twenties 1947-1963 Optimism and youth The new Look Christian Dior Birth of a Teenager Post War perfection 1964-1979 Swinging Sixties to Glam Rock Mini Magic/ skirt Yves Saint Laurents Women Wear Trouser Biba Stage Dance Party 1980 Onwards The designers Decades Vivenne Westwood Alexander Mcqueen Boho Chic and Vintage Jeal Paul Gaultier 1929-1946 From Glamour to utility Shimmering Gowns Schiaparelli America Ready to Wear
- 7. PRE HISTORY STONE AGE the people during this time period were hunter are food gatherers wore hides of animal and leaves to protect themselves. The stone age is divided into Paleolithic age (old stone age), Mesolithic age (middle age), Neolithic (new stone age). They learned about agriculture and animal husbandry. Birth of civilization Indus valley civilization Egyptian civilization and Mesopotamian civilization . The Ancient world is the historical events in time of the painting, sculpture, artefacts and scraps of clothing and Jewellery all provide clues as to how people live and dresses 600CE
- 8. EGYPTIAN CIVILIZATION Prehistory 600CE • Fabric • Clothing • Style lines • Makeup All the clothing worn by the Ancient Egyptians was of linen Linen is light, strong and flexible which made it ideal for the life in the warm climate. The material quality of garments itself could distinguish the classes, the upper class used finer quality linen where as cheaper thicker linen used within the lower class. Men wore draped fabric a schenti cloth wrapped around the hip which hung in folds in front till knee level. Female servant simple sheath dress. Clothing in New kingdom Men wore schenti an elaborated pleats garment, jewelry, wig and scented cone. Women wore kalasiris with detachable sleeves, jewelry, pleated wig, hair ornaments and scented cone. Beaded dress: rectangular silhouettes, fitted to body, created with cylindrical beads of red, green blue etc.
- 9. Styling of Egyptian They wore typical pleated garment as well as the cone of perfumed fat on top of perfumed fat on top of her wig that melts slowly to emit its precious odors Headgear and Wigs Hairstyle was a huge part of Ancient Egyptian Heads were shaven as both as a sign of nobility Wigs were used by both sexes of the upper and lower class. Make Up Khol eyelinear made of galenore. Eye shadow made of malachite which is red and green in colour. Use of Hena for colouring their hair. Jewellery Jewellery was worn from top to toe by wealthy Egyptian men and women. Gold came from nubia and semi precious stone includes lapis lazuli, green and red jasper, amethyst, cornelian, turquoise, and quartz. Glass were used to imitate precious stones. Steatite, a soft stone, was carved into small objects like pendants and scarabs.
- 12. MINONIAN CULTURE Female Minoan dress were long and low-necked with short sleeves and layered, flounced skirts the robes were open to the navel, they were so low that the bodice was open almost all the way to waist. Minoan men wore loin clothing and kilts. Men had long hair flowing to the shoulders; however several types of headgear were usual, types of bonnets and turbans, probably of skin.
- 13. ROMAN CIVILIZATION Dress was prescribed in Roman society accounting to the rank. Status determined whether the toga could be worn by Roman citizens whether it might be coloured, the emperor wear purple, but priests, senators, and equestrians might wear a stripe of purple on their robes. Stola An outer garment which has a long pleated dress similar to the Greek chiton. A women’s basic garment was the stola, which hung in pleats from the shoulders, where it fastened with brooches or clasps called fibulal and held in under the bust and around the waist with a belt. Over this stola women wore a palla for cover the head. Priest they wore toga which was complete draped around the body. Toga a one piece woolen around that shoulder wrapped around the body, wrapped in different ways. Colours (dyes):- Madder(red), indigo(blue), saffron(yellow) dyes are available and clothes were sometimes embroidered. Footwear (caliga) leather sandals or boots protect the feet. Roman hairstyle:- Men generally kept their hair short and neat and were clean shaven. Wealthy women had slaves to help them using ointment and calamistrum (curling iron)
- 16. Armour the warfare dress code scale lamellar, mail plate, leather and fabric and brigandine armours.
- 17. BYZANTINE STYLE After the fall of Rome in 476 CE, Constantinople became the center of the Byzantine style. A fusion of Greek, roman middle east and oriental styles, clothes indicated social status. Costume tunic, cloak, flowing gowns embroidered and embellished with jewels pearls ( dresses of elite classes) Fabrics imported silk, wool and linen. Poor working people wore plain woolen tunic and a long cloak on top. Colours Ancient people use dyes and pigment to dye their clothes, skin or jewellery. Purple colour was most expensive colour used by elite classes. Accessories Heavy fibula head gear, neckpieces rings, crowns. Shoes embroidered and encrusted with pearls.
- 19. GREEK CIVILIZATION Ancient Greece, which is in the same place as modern-day Greece, was and is the most southern country of the Balkan Peninsula. Clothing worn in Ancient Greece was loose and flowing and hardly were the garments ever sewn together. The fabric used linen or wool women also wore a veil with their clothing whenever they stepped out of the house an indigo veil and dark colour veil.
- 20. CHITON Ancient Greece men and women wore chiton. Chiton a tunic made of two rectangular of cloth joined on the shoulder and sides. The chiton could be worn with a himation or it could be worn without it as well. A belt was also worn with the chiton, which was called the zoster. The Doric chiton consisted of two pieces of cloth, which were rectangular in shape, and was worn long and over fold was worn longer on the Doric chiton.
- 21. HIMATION The himation is an important garment of ancient Greek fashion This was generally made from a rectangular piece of wool with the use of lighter fabrics, the himation was worn at any time of the day The himation was loose and flowing, thus, it can be termed as a modern cloak—it was also used as a form of drapery to be worn over the chiton The himation can be compared to the Roman toga, the only difference being that the himation has less volume in the fabric When worn solo, the himation was known as the a chiton. PEPLOS Women often wore the peplos a piece of woollen material The peplos consisted of a tubular shaped cloth—this was folded from the inside out The top area of the tube usually gathered at the waist and the bottom area extended till the ankles The cloth on the upper area was brought underneath the left arm—this was secured with the help of tapes or pins on the right shoulder. The top layer of the cloth, which draped the waist often gave the appearance of two pieces of cloth. When women wore the peplos, the arms were generally left bare and the fabric hung at the front area.
- 22. The chlamys was made from a seamless rectangle of woollen material worn by men as a cloak. The it was about the size of a blanket, usually bordered. The chlamys was typical Greek military attire as worn by soldiers, it could be wrapped around the arm and used as a light shield in combat. CHLAMYS
- 23. MEDIEVAL TRADE AND ROMANCE 600 - 1449 Men and women wore a loose tunic based on rectangles sewn together in different style and caught with belts. They wore Mantles draped over tunic with status enhancing fur lining. Age of migrations- 600- 1100 Courtly love and crusades- 1100- 1200 Priests and the people- 1100- 1450 The east in the west- 800- 1450 Social Statement(1200-1300) AGE OF MIGRATION (600-1100) After western roman empire collapsed, people started migrating to new areas, people needed warm, water, repelting clothes in the cold climate, so wool was the main cloth used. Men and women wore loose tunics, based on rectangular sewn together in different style and taught with belt. Mantle were draped over tunics and had status enhancing. Linen shirts were wore as undergarment beneath tunic.
- 24. COURTLY LOVE CRUSADES 1100-1200 Fashion became increasingly flam boy in the 12th century romances and chivalry fashion clothing became more fitted seductively figure hugging silk gowns, revealed embroidered chemise beneath the laced sides. Ordinary women wore fitted tunic, more closely over waist arms and hips. Garment were still based on rectangular cuts, but with lacing. Garments were still based on rectangular and triangular fabrics cut, but with lacing to crush straight shapes against the curved figure Accessories were long, pointed, Pauline shoes and long hair with trailing hems. PRIESTS AND THE PEOPLE People wore simple clothes which allowed them to do their work. Their clothes were shorter plain and coarse often home produced fabric. Garment were made such as aprons to carry tools we see the tippet sleeves pleated, leather purse attached with belt use of buttons on dress frayed hems (dagging) liripipe wide brimmed hats. Church people used best quality clothes with finest embroidery and weaving to dress cardinals Bishops. Wide brimmed hat, tippet sleeves, pleated leather purse from belt, use of buttoned tunics, frayed hems.
- 25. THE EAST IN THE WEST (800- 1450) In medieval times the Mediterranean basin was the most advanced center in he world Of learning, Technology and trade . Expensive textiles came from china along the ancient Silk Road, the great trade route running through Central Asia. Wimple piece of cloth worn over the head and around the face and neck . A wimple would be worn under a veil called a kerchief. Henin Hat conical hat with long veil. Men’s hat sugar loaf hat was a tallish conical hat resemble an inverted flower pot. Surcoat and mantles are in fashion during this time.
- 27. SOCIAL STATEMENT (1200-1300) Clothing become voluminous in the 13th century and men’s and women’s garments followed the same changes in shape. Tunic sleeves had tight lower arms, but more fabrics around the armhole, and the Surcoat (sleeveless overtunic) became a wardrobe stable. Though cuts were simple and elegantly draped, headwear became more complex. Women wore hairnets, or Wimples ( chin bands) and circlets around the head and men wore small, round caps. The biggest development of the 14th century was the move from flat, draped garments the beginning of tailoring chests looked larger both sexes and made the use of padding colors contrast and party colors came into fashion. Neckline became lower, trailing hemlines, pouline shoes. Tight sleeves, hoods, belts, viels , gloves were more worn, houppelande trails on ground. The silhouette was long with high waist the fashion to walk with belly slightly protuding. Dagged edges, higher collar, use of peplum.
- 28. TRAILING ELEGANCE Women’s gown became high waist with a low cut v neck that showed a piece of contrasting fabric underneath. The V neck would be folded back to reveal an attractive lining long fitted sleeves developed cuffs in what was called Burundian fashion Sleeves widened toward a bell shape. The longer sleeve of the under tunic elongated with such exaggeration that the hems of the bottom part of the sleeve sometimes reached the ground. The over tunic men wore evolved into a doublet or a short skirted tunic. Slashings in the sleeves showed the under tunic which could be pulled through to create puffs of contrasting fabric and color. Houppelande - The houppelande of 1380 was a beautiful, full length robe like garment featuring a high collar and wide sleeves. The houppelande would often feature fur trim. Men wore many types of hats and head gear. The sugar loaf hat, conical hat
- 29. RENAISSANCE SPLENDOUR 1450 - 1624 This was the period when fashion finally moved from draped clothing to fitted garments and the art of tailoring came into its own. Clothing now consisted of a greater number of parts including detachable sleeves jerkins and breeches of different lengths. The masculine form was enhanced by the latest clothing, with its wide shoulders, codpieces strong legs and bellies. The fashion split there were marked regional difference in women’s dress. The medieval standards one piece tunic moved towards broad spectrum of fashion in cut and construction. Hanging sleeves French gowns sleeves, ruffs were used on the sleeves and on neck. Head dresses often emphasized a women’s high smooth forehead . Many women bleached their hair to a fashionable blonde. Cylindrical hats of different lengths were stylish in France, England and low countries.
- 32. FROM DRAPED TO SHAPE Soft draped lines began to disappear as the century went on dress had two main parts bodice and skirt and sleeves were often separate too. Full skirts widened with gathered and pleated waistline outer skirts were opened up in front to reveal a petticoat or forepart underneath.
- 33. ELEGANT FORMALITY As the century progressed so the gradual stiffening of women’s dress continued. Linear bands and braids followed the clothing’s sharp lines and emphasized its control of body shape. Necklines were either at bust level or up to the chin . The silhouette stayed triangular with narrow waists endings in sharp points and full skirts. The tops of sleeves of women’s dresses started be styled into puffs, tabs and rolls. Male and female fashions followed similar trends of adornments, cut and colour.
- 34. FEMALE GEOMETRY Fashion history’s most geometric period created unnatural. Silhouettes made from straight lines, triangles and circles. huge ruffs isolated head from body, or open collars revealed décolletages cut immodestly low. Farthingale made women widest and squarest it had shortened hems to make feet visible
- 36. BAROQUE AND ROCOCO 1625 - 1789 Buckles and straps evolved during this time the Farthingales petticoats vanished and people move toward softer silhouettes a stiffing was done in the dress with the use of buckram. The bond bodice developed which was as corsets and this was used for the upper dress. During this time the women’s bodice had a new beginning that was was the development of mantuas. Mantuas was a garment that was open from a front and gradually shape change with the use of hooped petticoat and underskirts of canvas or linen with rings made of whale bone or cane.
- 37. FROM REVOLUTION TO FRIVOLITY 1790 - 1900 Neo classicism 1790-1800 Fashion of 18th century reflected a time of upheaval. It brought more informal dress influenced by Revolutionary fervor in France. Wrapping gown, silk and painted chintz cottons gave may to printed cottons and plain cotton chemise dress. High waist simple dress laced corsets were worn over on top. DELIGHTING IN THE DETAILS 1820- 1830 Piping of the dress Splendour Jackets and beautiful hats appears. Wide puffed sleeve emphasis the narrow waist low décolletage the bottom shape neck. Off shoulder dress appeared.
- 39. INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION Eli Whitney invented the cotton ginning machine in 1793 which was patented by 1807. 1804 we had jacquard loom after the name of Joseph Jacquard. Issac singer in 1851 brought the sewing machine and the principle of assembly line development which developed which led to the mass production of classes. Crigot sleeve had expanded to its fullest 1856-1876 Crinolines appeared large frame were abandoned after 1867, skirts trailed and were gathered internally with ties forming the soft bustle. Soft bustles and fishtails, bodice necklines were square with exposed decollate for evening. Dresses had three quarter sleeve with lace cuffs and wore sleeveless for evening wear. 1830-1837
- 40. 1876-1888 princess line dress came in fashion fishtrail trains were rejected and extremely tight steel boned corsets came in the year 1883- 87 which look like chicken tail. 1890-1899 during this time India was ceded to Britain by the trite of Paris in 1898 During this time the cotton was the most sought after because of superior quality and durability and the British company profited by taking the raw cotton from India from making fabrics. In London, during the same time period the women had high ruffs and wasp waists. Women’s wear of the Victorian era was characterized by high collars, tiny wasp waist were emphasized by the most enormous sleeves and pyramid skirts with pleats. This ruffs corset, padded sleeves (leg-o-mutton sleeves) and cone shape skirts and bifercated skits recalled Elizabethan “fin- de-siecle” styling. Ball dresses for evening party were popular .
- 41. LA BELLA EPOQUE AND JAZZ AGE This time period focused on simplification of the dress. The idea was “ less is more”. After the war the popularity of elaborated hair piece and dresses were reduced to a replace by energetic boyish look “The Flapper”. Always on the move- either dancing or racing around in the automobile the new style which represent the youth fashion and fun. 1901-1928
- 43. PAUL POIRET THE FIRST DESIGNER Poiret was a true Parisian, born in 1879. Poiret always designed on live models, working from the shoulders, initially creating a series of surprisingly plain gowns that skimmed the outlines of the figure Whose tubular dresses liberate women from corset, was first Paris couturier of this century to become trendsetter. Poiret went on to design for two star actresses of the period, Gabrielle Réjane and Sarah Bernhardt, The idolized actress Gabrielle Réjane became Poiret’s first customer. The Réjane with her white donkeys, a present from the King of Portugal. She was like a magnet for others.
- 45. FROM GLAMOUR TO UTILITY This time period 1929-1946 use to have the designer Elsa Schiaparelli entering and during this time very simple dress coats entered because this was the time of great depression. The main feature that we see here is the dresses became longer at the hemlines to the floor length. And the roaring twenties came to a hawlt.
- 47. ELSA SCHIAPARELLI 1890 -1973 Elsa Schiaparelli an Italian designer born on 10 September 1890. Elsa Schiaparelli inscribed the word “for sport” on the door of her first fashion salon in Paris. She earned her placed in the history of fashion not for her sport wear, but for the most flamboyant creation of all time. Elsa’s was the first designer who usually use haberdashery, stove pipe collar, braids, pleats padding and yoke on her dresses.
- 48. FASHION DESIGNER ELSA SCHIAPARELLI COLLECTION
- 49. COCO CHANEL Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel born on 19 august 1883 was a French fashion Designer and businesswomen. In 1918, Chanel purchased the entire building at 31 rue Combon, which was situated one of the most fashionable district of Paris. In 1921 she opened a fashion boutique featuring clothing hats accessories later. She introduced Boyish look for women and cloche hat famous by Coco Chanel.
- 51. MADELEINE VIONNET Madeleine Vionnet French fashion designer born 22 on June 1876. Madeline Vionnet invented the bias cut and was famous for her incomparable skill in creating elegantly draped designs. It must have been her love of geometry that enabled madeleine Vionnet to create such sophisticated design from simple basic squares and triangles. Vionnet approached the female body like a doctor, intent on preserving its natural beauty with surgeon like precision, she began to experiment with the artful use of seam lines that allowed the fabric to follow the curves of a women’s figure. In 1920 wanted fringes on their dresses, Vionnet was the only designer who did not use ready made lengths of fringe trimming. Instead each fringe thread was individually attached to the garment an d knotted one strand at a time in order to preserve the fabric’s elasticity. to quote Madeleine Vionnet” when a women smiles her dress should smile with her”.
- 53. OPTIMISM AND YOUTH 1947-1963 Fashion Designer Mariano Fortuny Fashion Designer Cristobal Balenciaga Fashion Designer Christian Dior
- 54. CHRISTIAN DIOR FRENCH DESIGNER First collection COROLLE COLLECTION 1947 Christian Dior inspired with ROSE and created the New Look with longer, fuller skirts, smooth, rounded, sloping shoulders and tiny fitted waist. All his designs were resembled flowers petals and loops of figure 8.he used bones, bustier style bodice hip padding in his designs, warp waist corset and petticoats made his dress flare out from waist giving a curvaceous look. EFFECT OF WORLD WAR-II ON FASHION This time period had practically no fabric to work with, no trimmings, no press coverage and little food. Lack of imports from France became a boon to America as they got a time to develop their style. Movie star Audrey Hepburn and Jacqueline wife of President.
- 57. Pierre Cardin is an Italian born French Fashion Designer Cardin’s talent did not go unnoticed for long and in 1954 his bubble dress became an international success. In the 1960s, inspired by scientific progress, Cardin establishing himself as the first couturier to work with synthetic materials. His designs during this period were referred to as the “Space Age” style and their often avant-garde forms helped to establish his distinctive voice. In 1977, 1979 and 1982, Cardin was awarded the highest honor in Haute Couture when he was awarded the Golden Thimble. PIERRE CARDIN
- 60. MARIANO FORTUNY He was as much artist and inventor as designer over three decades he registered more than twenty inventions in Paris. His great contribution to fashion, summed up in one dress, the Delphos, was to free the body from the restrictions of fashion able 19th century dress. Created as early as1907, the Delphos was a long, simply cut, pleated silk dress that hung loosely from the shoulders and could be scrunched up into ball for travelling. In an age when most women were tightly corseted and fitted, it represented a liberation.
- 61. SWINGING SIXTIES TO GLAM ROCK 1964 - 1979
- 62. YVES SAINT LAURRENT 1958 - 1988 Yves saint Laurent born on 1august 1936 was a French fashion designer and is regarded as being among the foremost fashion designer in twentieth century. YSL has a famous collection called Mondrian collection. Saint Laurent’s evening wear reveled in the retro and ethnic looks so beloved of hippies-he merely made them acceptable to the world of couture. During the 1960s,saint Laurent introduced various new elements into women’s fashion which are regarded as indispensables features of a woman’s wardrobe : paint suits, safari jackets, transparent garment and his female version of the tuxedo. Anti fashion of the late 1960s and 1970s ethnic look had folk costumes from every country. Designer used Chinese and African dashiki in their hippes look(bohemian fashion) Reverse fashion adoption was taken into fashion by YSL (mod looks).
- 64. THE DESIGNER DECADES 1980 onwards Fashion Designer Vivienne Westwood Fashion Designer Alexander Mcqueen Fashion Designer Jean Paul Gaultier Japanese Fashion Designer Rei Kawakububo Fashion Designer Yohji Yamamoto Fashion Designer Issey Miyake
- 66. JEAN PAUL GAULTIER COLLECTION
- 67. JAPANESE FASHION DESIGNER REI KAWAKUBO Rei Kawakubo is famous for many things. There’s her love of deconstructed tailoring. The Rei-ism on everyone’s mind is her penchant for big, huge, enormous, essentially planetary garments. The designer has always had a love for volume. It was coincidence that her own label, launched in japan in 1969, was called comme des garcons. “Lumps and Bumps” show, was one that garnered Kawakubo international acclaim but the outsize circles, rectangles, and cascading ruffles on the Comme des Garçons runways have transcended simple ideas of volume and shape and turned garments into truly awesome artistic expressions
- 68. Japanese Fashion Designer Rei Kawakububo Collection
- 69. Japanese Fashion Designer Rei Kawakububo Collection
- 70. THANK YOUHarsha Parihar 2nd Year Advance Diploma in Fashion Design Conforming to NSQF Level 6 Validated by NSDC and Ministry of Skill Development Dezyne E’cole College