Modern Japanese Food History
- 1. Modern Japanese Food History Globalization
- 2. Selected Topics • Slow Change in Modern Japan – Creating a National Cuisine – Imports • Globalizing Japanese Food – Fortune Cookies – Sushi
- 3. Creating A National Cuisine
- 4. Prosperity and Culture • "Dishes that we think of as traditional Japanese cuisine, such as tempura, soba, sushi, and unagi no kabayaki (eel broiled with a soy sauce seasoning) all date from the Tokugawa period but were eaten around the entire country after the Restoration." (Hansen, 161) • "There is no real evidence in the Meiji period of any transition to a diet that included new types of Western-influenced foods." (Hansen 163)
- 5. Noodle Shop
- 6. Rise of Beriberi (Thiamin Deficiency) "People consumed increasing amounts of tea, fruit, sugar, and soy sauce, and more people dined out. The demand for seasoning rose as people at more white rice.... with increased use of polished rice, the demand for soy sauce rose."
- 7. Ichiju Issai • "The pattern for ordinary meals was ... ichiju issai: 'one soup and one vegetable.' ... rice, miso soup, and pickles, but sometimes other simple dishes would be added. ... only during the Meiji period that most Japanese, including farmers, commonly ate this type of meal with all of the elements served separately and not as a form of stew or gruel." (Hansen, 163)
- 10. Okonomiyaki: Grilled As You Like It
- 13. Importing Foods Waves of Change
- 14. Military Food "Biscuits were introduced during the Sino-Japanese War and, after the Russo-Japanese War, were produced in large quantity. The army also introduced beef, calling it yamato-ni (Japanese stew) to overcome the negativeassociations red meat would have for soldiers from the country. Beer, first brought in from England in 1868, was produced in Japan within a decade and consumed by bureaucrats and the military alike. After serving in the army, country boys returned home with a taste for new foods and cooking methods." (Hansen 165)
- 15. Taisho Era (1912-1926) • Curry Rice • Meat, milk, bread • Bulldog Sauce • tonkatsu (pork cutlets) • More foreign restaurants (esp. Chinatown)
- 16. Post-WWII • Hamburgers • Milk • Chocolate • Whale • School Lunches • Wine, Scotch
- 17. Foreign Ambiance
- 19. Beer
- 20. Beer and Sake
- 23. "Furankufuruto"
- 24. "Smile: 0¥"
- 25. The Fortune Cookie Controversy • Fortune cookies become popular along with Chinese restaurants: WWII military travel through SF and LA, Honolulu, spreads Chinese food. • Japanese expulsion from west coast in WWII means that only some speciality shops survived, including bakeries, but Japanese food didn't spread. • No real Chinese equivalents • Japanese fortune-telling and cookie-baking traditions
- 27. Bean Paste Pastries, Kyoto Style
- 28. Temple Fortunes
- 31. My Favorite Fortune Ever
- 32. Global Sushi • Vinegar and sugar rice with fish becomes popular in Japanese cities in late 1600s • Japanese restaurants in the US West, but not popular • 1970s, with rise of Japanese economy and health food fads, sees West coast sushi become popular • Spreads to other major cities in 1980s. • New Global Ingredients: mayonaise, avocado, cream cheese, spicy sauces
- 34. Sushi Chef, Nagoya, 1985
- 35. Atom Boy Revolving Family Sushi
- 36. Sushi Lunch, Hilo (KTA Supermarket)
- 37. Kansas City Hen House Sushi
- 38. Sources • Pictures by Jonathan Dresner – http://flickr.com/photos/jondresner • Jennifer 8. Lee, "Solving a Riddle Wrapped in a Mystery Inside a Cookie," NYT, 16 January 2008 – http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/16/dining/16fort.html • Crocheted Sushi by Karin McAdams • Susan Hanley, Everyday Things in Premodern Japan: The Hidden Legacy of Material Culture, UCP, 1997