Mughal costume, textile and jewellery
- 2. Empire MUGALUnfolding fashion of Mugal Empire By Richa Parashar Mugal empire played an important role in increasing the richness of Indian textile and costume. Mugal emperors( 1526-1857) were pas- sionate about painting, jewellery ,architecture,Poetry.This presena- tion highlights the costume ,textile, ornaments ad it’s effect of in todays fashion world. Costume: Textile: Jewellery MUGAL EMPIRE
- 3. Men’s clothing Mughal clothing refers to clothing devel- oped by the Mughals in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries throughout the extent of their empire in the Indian subcontinent. It was characterized by luxurious styles and was made with muslin, silk, velvet and brocade.Elaborate patterns includ- ing dots, checks, and waves were used with colors from various dyes including cochineal, sulfate of iron, sulfate of cop- per and sulfate of antimony Characterstics MUGALEMPIRE Fig01:TypicalMugalmenclothing Jama,Pajama,Patka,turban Fig02:PortraitofPrinceKhurram (ShahJahan),Mughalperiod
- 4. MUGALEMPIRE Men’s clothing The Mughals (a mix of Turkish and Persian in- fluences) took shape during the reign of Akbar and Jahangir. Mughal costume for men consisted of the 1) jama, a garment that was fitted till the waist and worn crosswise and fastened at the side with a lower skirt like portion that fell below the knees 2) the tight paijamas for the legs 3) the patka (sash) which here is secured with a jewelled belt 4) the chadar aka shawl 5) the turban. The jama and chador were usually fine muslin, fine enough to see un- derlying jewellery. Other clothing types included: “peshwaz” style robes and “yalek” robes Costumedetails Fig04:Themultiplesidetiesof jamaortunicandflatheeled withapointedfrontendand withoutabackstrap Fig03:Pagristyles-"Chau-goshia", infoursegments,thedomeshaped qubbedar,kashiti,dupalli,embroi- derednukkadar,andembroidered andvelvetmandi
- 5. Fig04:Thisopulentformofembroi- deryinoneinwhichmetalthreads, mostlygoldandsilver,wereusedto createextensivemotifs.Thetrendis tracedbacktotheMughalperiod Fig07:AchkanandAngrakhasareused toaddasenseoffunandtanginesstothe usualkurta. Men’s clothing The Mughal inspiration could be see working into modern ensembles. The rich colour ranges from pastel pink, jade, mauve to intoxicating champagne, rich gold, bright red, sophisticate maroon, electric blue, sunny saffron and ended with heavy jewelled looks, which at times become so intense that the embellish- ments almost replace the need for jewel- lery around the necks .Detailing for the collection revolved around stitched-in pleats and belted saris or kurtas along with dhoti or lungi drapes for pants and skirts TodaysMugal CONTEMPORARY
- 6. Fig09:Mughalkundan necklace Fig08:Persianbluemeena- karinecklaceinfloralmotif Women were known to have as many as 8 complete sets of jewelry. Popular ornaments included 2 inch wide arm- lets worn above the elbows, bracelets or pearls at the wrist stacked high enough to impede access to the pulse, lots of rings (with the mirror ring worn on the right thumb customary for nearly all the inhabitants of the Zenana), strings of pearls (as many as 15 strings at a time), metal bands or strings of pearls at the bottom of their legs, and ornaments hanging in the middle of the head in the shape of star, sun, moon, or a flower Women’s fashion Women also adorned a variety of head or- naments such as Binduli, Kotbiladar, Sekra, Siphul, Tikka and Jhumar Mugalornaments JEWELLERY Fig12:HeadornamentssuchasBind- uli,Kotbiladar,TikkaandJhumar Fig11:Mor-Bhanwar,Bali,Jhum- kas,KanphoolandPipalpatraor papalpattiareearringsfromthe period. Fig11:Handornament
- 7. They wore long, loose jama like ribs, which had full sleeves and opened at the front. Underneath, an ankle length vest was worn and the ensemble was completed with a veil which cov- ered the hair and most of the face .Dur- ing the cold season, qabas (coat) made of Kashmir shawl cloth was worn as overcoats .Outside the harem they were usually clothed in the burqa ,which cov- ered the body from head to feet leaving only a slit around the eyes MUGALEMPIRE Characterstics Women’s costume The clothes worn by Muslim women during the Mughal rule were not much different to the men. Fig13:IdealizedPortraitoftheMughal EmpressNurJahan Fig14:ThegarmentsofMughalla- diesweremadeofthefinestmus- lins,silks,velvetsandbrocades.
- 8. CONTEMPORARY TodaysMugal Women’s clothing The Mughal inspiration could be see work- ing into modern ensembles. Figure15:Modelwearinganarkaliduring afashionshow Fig16:Thepaasa,orthejhoomar paasa,isatraditionalpieceofjewel- lerywornonthehead. the anarkali as a garment was identi- fied as a long flowy kurta that was fit- ted around the bust. The fitting around the empire line and subsequent flare in the garment was revived in the 1960s. The paasa is defined by its pearled strings that carry a pendant-like struc- ture. Usually, it is worn on the left side of the head and is tucked into the hair in a way that it covers the temple.
- 9. JEWELLERY MugalOrnaments Men’s fashion Ornaments are worn not only for the pur- pose of attracting the attention of others around but also as a distinctive mark of status, rank and dignity. The most important accessory for an Indian man was his turban, which pro- claimed his status, religion, caste and region of origin. To submit a turban to anybody was a sign of total subjugation and the removal of a turban was the most humiliating punishment that could be inflicted on any man. Fig:The ornaments, footwear, head-wear and of Mughal period. Fig:Jewellery for decoraticng turban
- 10. Pai-Jama: This is a compound of two Persian words “pai” meaning legs or feet and “jama” meaning cover. Draw- string pai-jamas have been worn in Persia since very ancient times. From about 1530 onwards, several types of pai-jama were worn in India. Churidar: Cut on the bias, much long- er than the leg, so that folds fall at the ankle, worn by men and women. Shalwar: A triangularly cut pai-jama with a quilted band at the ankle (pon- cha) worn by men and women. Dhilja: A woman’s pai-jama made of silk, cut wide and straight. Garara: A woman’s pai-jama cut loose to the knee and adding gathers. Farshi: A woman’s pai-jama cut with- out folds to the knees, and then gath- ered into pleats to the floor. Costumedetails MUGALEMPIRE Women’s clothing ladies wore multiple layers of clothing, with a tight fitting bodice that stopped short of the navel.The length hit the knees or lower, the waist fastened closely, and the neckline was in a “V” shape. Fig:Costume of women in Mugal court
- 11. Ornamented shoes with turned up toes (Jhuti) were Persian in style, and were worn by men and women. Some other footwear were: The Kafsh, worn by nobles and kings The Charhvan, with a curling tongue fixed to the toe The Salim Shahi, decorated in gold The Khurd Nau, very lightweight, made of kid leather Lucknow was most famous for it’s footwear in Mughal times, and the art of Aughi, embroidery on leather and velvet footwear, was very popular. MUGALEMPIRE MugalFootwear Men’s fashion People prefer wearing them on traditional oca- sions like weddings. Along with traditional dresses like sherwani or kurta pajama, jutti form the quintessential accessory. Fig:juttiformenwithex- tendedcurvedtip,ornokh. Fig:OrnamentedJuttidur- ingMugalperiodFig:IndianMojarisPair
- 12. Jackets: Jackets over kurtas and saris have become a smart, chic choice for women across the nation. Historians across the country and paintings from the era suggest that empress Mumtaz was extremely fond of the trend. She was often painted wearing a long sleeved kurta under a short-sleeved jacket. The trend of carrying jackets over the usual kurtas and anarkalis is hence often credited to Mumtaz herself. Historians as- sert that jackets were not meant for women earlier and crafting these jackets that were rich in fabric and opulent in nature was a brainchild of the Mughals, notably Mumtaz. Modern twist by Indian designers MUGALEMPIRE Modern twist given to traditional jacket Men’s jacket inspired by Akbar’s jacket
- 13. ShrutiHaasanwalktherampfoMughal IndiaShowbyAnushreeReddy Reynu Taandon takes the ramp accompanied by showstopper Richa Chadha This new collection juxtaposes the traditions of the Mughal era with the taste of a modern day Ethnicity is kept intact, fusing it with mod- ern construction to make the ensemble fit for a modern bride. Fine fabrics such as rich velvet and Benarasi as the base for lehengas and anarkali suits has been used. Intense threadwork embroidery has been meticu- lously worked upon. Tulle and cancan has been used to create a lacy, floating look. Deep colours like burgundy, tomato red and hot pink dominate this line. Cocktail saris use shimmer chiffon, bejewelled borders and Renaissance motifs all over as the jaal. De- tailed bejewelled bustiers have been coordi- nated with the saris and lehengas. FASHION RELIVINGMUGAL